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Found 26 results

  1. Dirtrider 88

    Brand loyal S.o.b's!

    *RANT* Alright. I am even at fault for this but I am so sick of all of the threads about how ktm is ruining the world of moto and about which brand is best. I don't understand the whole concept of more power = better bike. Really 47-50hp is more than adequate for anyone. Ride your favorite color. Weather it be red. Blue .green .pink. Purple . whatever. I don't understand why people hate on other brands. *rant over*
  2. rocket625

    Honda XR400R (1998)

    0 comments

    best xr400
  3. orismaug

    Drive ratio

    Dear all, I'm riding with 52/13 sprocket ratio. It gives me nice torque on the bottom low gear, as mostly I ride hard enduro. This ratio is 4 to 1, my question is, if I change the setting to 48/12, which gives the same 4 to 1 ratio, will the bike behave the same way? What is the difference between settings achieving the same ratio but with different T numbers on the front sprocket? And what ratio would you recommend for hard enduro ride, slow technical terrain? I ride ktm 400 exc 2011. Thanks in advance, Adi
  4. 3 reviews

    DESCRITION The Turner Chain & Steel Sprocket Kit is an easy and affordable way to replace or upgrade your O.E.M. sprockets and chains in one easy purchase! Sprockets / Chainwheels Included: Turner Front Steel Sprocket 428: Made exclusively from the finest high-carbon steel. Outlasts any mild steel or surface-hardened sprocket. Heat treated and hand finished. Turner Rear Steel Sprocket 428: Made exclusively from the finest high-carbon steel. Outlasts any mild steel or surface-hardened sprocket. Heat treated and hand finished. Your Choice of Drive Chain: D.I.D 428 Standard Chain - 120 Links: The D.I.D Standard Non-O-Ring Chain is designed for low horsepower, smaller displacement mopeds, scooters and vintage motorcycles. For machines originally equipped with non-O-ring chains. Solid rollers. Shot-peened parts. High cylindrical and roundness accuracy. Exacting tolerances provide low friction. Pre-stretched. Special alloy steel with extended riveted bushing "anti-kink" design. Highest quality non-O-ring chain in overall combined performance. Average tensile strength of 4,480 pounds. Wear life index: 100. Includes clip-style master link. 120 links. Note: Non-sealed chains require more regular maintenance than sealed (O-ring, X-ring) versions and are mainly recommended for off-road use. D.I.D 428 NZ Gold Chain - 120 or 136 Links: Pinning your bike out of every turn might tear apart the stock chain, but D.I.D and their 428NZ chain will not let you, or your race for first, down. For machines originally equipped with non-O-ring chains. Solid rollers. Shot-peened parts. High cylindrical and roundness accuracy. Exacting tolerances provide low friction. SDH pin treatment - hard chromium-carbide layer formed on pin surface for exceptional strength and wear resistance. Pre-stretched. Special alloy steel with extended riveted bushing "anti-kink" design. Highest quality non-O-ring chain in overall combined performance. Up to 19% higher tensile strength; average tensile strength of 5,740 pounds. Wear life index: 410. Weight (per 100 links): 2.20 pounds. Includes a clip-style master link. 120 or 136 links. Note: Non-sealed chains require more regular maintenance than sealed (O-ring, X-ring) versions and are mainly recommended for off-road use. Renthal 428 R1 Chain - 120 or 130 Links: Renthal's R1 Works Chain is a high-strength non O-ring chain with excellent impact load resistance designed specifically to withstand the stress found in off-road applications. This chain is the choice where a combination of high strength, light weight and maximum power transfer are important considerations. Shot-peened alloy steel side plates for high tensile strength and maximum impact load resistance. Chamfered inner links to reduce the chance of chain derailment. Extended bushings to reduce friction between outer and inner link plates, maximizing power output. Chromized bearing pins for excellent resistance to wear. Gold color side plates help prevent corrosion. Most perfectly matched chain for Renthal sprockets allowing maximum power at the rear wheel. This also extends the life of both the chain and sprockets. Average tensile strength of 4,609 pounds. Maximum displacement (street / off-road): N/A / 150cc. Each chain includes master link and a pair of latex gloves for mess free installation. 120 or 130 links.
  5. For many of our readers who don’t live in a temperate climate, spring means it’s time to get your treasured machine out of its hiding place and get ready for the riding season ahead. High performance off-road machinery hates to sit…and when it does, all kinds of bad things can happen. “If I have to choose between opportunity and preparation, I’d choose preparation, without it opportunity is useless.” -- Saji Ijiyemi So where should you start? We’ve reached out to our off-road experts, riders and racers who have spent years figuring out how to be best prepared when hitting the road (or dirt) after an extended period of downtime…and we’ve tried to put it all together here for you. Don’t forget that a great source of knowledge of all things dirt is available on ThumperTalk.com WHEN WINTER COMES When storing your prized machine, a good offense is always the best defense. There are a number of steps you can take prior to retiring your steed to hibernation, and these simple items can make all the difference when warmer weather shows up. WHEN GOOD FUEL GOES BAD Gasoline and stabilizers: There seem to be two schools of thought on how to best approach this. One is to drain the tank and carb of fuel and “put her up dry”…but we’ve seen issues where the last bit of fuel doesn’t evaporate completely and leaves that dreaded gummy residue that equals death to carburetors and fuel injection components, so we don’t recommend this approach. A better way to store fuel in your machine is to fill the tank with fresh fuel, adding fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer or Star Tron Fuel Treatment and run the machine until you are sure that the now stabilized fuel has run through the system, at least a few minutes. Then top up any remaining space in the tank with fresh fuel and stand the bike upright. When spring arrives, drain fuel, fill with fresh gas and go…although we’ve ridden out the tank of stabilized fuel with no issues more than once. Two strokes and four strokes: Are fuel stabilizers used for both two and four strokes? Yes. And if gasoline with ethanol is in your bike, use the blue-colored Marine Formula Sta-Bil. It's formulated to prevent phase separation. YOUR BATTERY: IS IT READY? Intelligent chargers: Batteries don’t seem to like being off their charging cycle and this is especially true of the old lead acid batteries. The new type lightweight Lithium Ion units also like to stay at peak capacity and as such using an intelligent trickle charger such as the Battery Tender or similar unit has always been the way to go when it comes to our rides because it keeps it in the best health and tells it when it’s time for replacement. First, we remove the batteries from the bikes and put them on a wood surface on our bench, we don’t leave batteries in the bikes in case of any leakage while charging from the lead acid units. We have multiple batteries here…and for that we like to use the Battery Tender Four Bank System and we’ve also heard good things about the cheaper PulseTech QuadLink which gives you the ability to charge four batteries at once with your 6-volt or 12-volt battery charger, regardless of the brand. It’s also simple to just alternate the leads every week between batteries. Even the singular units have a visual indicator as to how the battery health is so it’s easy to spot one that’s going bad during the charging cycles. Now let’s look at items you should inspect before the season starts. FLUIDS: DO YOU NEED CHANGE THEM? Engine oil, brake fluid, etc. Do they “go bad” or expire during the off-season? After some research we’ve come to some findings: Engine oil: As long as it’s fairly clean, engine oil should have no issues when sitting for six months. But dirty engine oil contains lots of contaminants, from blow by and leaky seals, gasoline contamination, etc. and these can work breaking down items like clutch plates and seals given enough time, so if it’s not clean and clear, replace it. Brake fluid: Brake fluid also degrades over time when in use, so change it. Moisture in your brake fluid enters through seals and the master cylinder cover…that’s why there’s that window there, so you don’t have to keep opening (and contaminating) the fluid inside. Remember that brake fluid attracts water and given the chance it will become unstable and lack the heat resistance required to effectively stop you in the shortest distance, as well as corroding everything it comes into contact with. There are a myriad of devices available to test brake fluid for contaminants, and we’ve seen everything from cheap ($8) test strips to LED testers ($20) and even bench mounted tester that go for up to $500. We’ve only used the cheap strips and we find them to be fairly effective when coupled with a keen eye. Radiator fluid: Radiator fluid does break down and it's anti-corrosive and cooling properties become wholly ineffective over time as well. Most brands have a schedule that the manufacturer uses to determine when to replace it. We follow this in our bikes but we also do a visual inspection to be sure that the coolant is worthy of usage. It’s pretty simple…does it look the same as when it was put in? It the radiator still full as when you topped it off last? Does it look like it came on a spaceship from Mars with the bright green hue? Dirty, contaminated radiator fluid can point to upcoming, more serious engine issues…if you notice any dark colors or residue in the coolant these could point to a failing head gasket or seal. Basically, if it doesn’t appear fresh and clean, change it and then keep an eye on it. WHEELS & TIRES: VISUAL INSPECTION IS NECESSARY! Spokes: Spokes play a vital role in your wheel setup but are many times overlooked during the maintenance of our machines. You should do a visual inspection of the spokes, looking for bent and/or broken spokes. Obviously broken spoke(s) require immediate replacement. Bent spokes are a judgment call, as long as they can be tightened correctly and without hassle. To make sure your spokes are at the correct torque to support the wheel structure, you must use a spoke wrench such as the ones made by Motion Pro or Fasst Co. and spokes must be tightened in a specific order and each tool comes with detailed instructions for this procedure, follow it religiously for best results. Rim locks: Off road bike’s rim locks can work their way loose during the riding season and once they do, they’ll flatten your tire quickly. And usually this will be at worst time, such as in the big race! Normally, you can tell how the rim lock is aligned and whether it’s tight by simply insuring that the stud for the rim lock appears straight and is exiting the rim, pointing directly at the wheel axle and the nut is on the stem. If it isn’t, it’s best to let all the air out of the tube and (very gently) move the rim lock and stud assembly back to the optimal position. The hardest part is repositioning the rim strip back over the rim lock, so good luck with that. Screw the valve stem nut all the way and fill the tube, and repeat two or three times to insure the tube is seated and tighten the rim lock so it's snug but not tight. Do not tighten the valve stem nut…just back it up against the stem cap and keep an eye on it to see if the tire/tube is slipping on the rim. Dry rot: If you have been storing your bike for an extended period of time, especially off the stand, it’s best to do a visual inspection of your tires. Were they old when you mounted them? Vintage bike and vintage tires? Better check the sidewall, especially where it meets the rim for any cracking or blistering. Either of these two conditions would necessitate replacement. BRAKES, BEARINGS AND DRIVETRAIN: EVERYTHING IN SPEC? Disc Brakes: These are fairly easy to visually inspect for pad wear and as pads are so cheap, if I see any significant wear before the season starts, I’ll replace them just so I’ve got that added bite when competing. You should also inspect the brake alignment pins for corrosion and replace as needed. Drum brakes: With drum brakes, the signs of wear can be deceiving, as you can’t actually see the brake shoes. Some bikes have a wear indicator that has a pointer on the hub which shows a “wear range” but we’ve never found these to be very accurate. Better to take the wheel off and take a look…it’s easy to see how worn they are and you can use calipers to determine shoe thickness. Wheel bearings: Wheel bearings wear out, and when they do it can be ugly, so just put your bike up on a stand and rotate the wheels by hand. Is there any side to side play? Doesn’t spin freely? Clunking noises? Then wheel bearings may be an issue. With the sealed types, replacement is your only option but with non sealed bearings you can try removing, cleaning and re-greasing them. Make sure you inspect them for any obvious pitting, cracking or uneven wear…but if they still look good, they may have just been dirty. Drivetrain: Your sprockets and chain take a lot of abuse when out riding because sand, dirt and water all conspire to shorten the life of a chain and sprocket set, no matter how tough. Drivetrain setups including sprockets and chain are inexpensive (about $100) and are easy and quick to replace. First off, take a look at your sprockets…how are the bolts, are they all tight and at the correct torque spec? Are the teeth all there and are they sharp and exhibit no hooking? How is the chain…is there a lot of play, is it getting to the limits of the chain adjustments, is it noisy or does it slap when landing from jumps? These are all signs of excessive chain and/or sprocket wear and a sprocket or chain failure can lead to a hospital visit – and if the chain gets wrapped up in the engine case, it can lead to a cracked case (as happened to this author on my KTM)…and this is big money to fix. So don’t do what I did…make sure to replace these worn driveline components before they fail and endanger you and possibly others around you. REEDS & VALVES: INSPECT, ADJUST OR REPLACE? Reeds: If you ride a two stroke, you should visually inspect your reed valves as they tend to crack/chip over time. This will make your machine hard to start and stay idling, so best to make sure they are good. These chips and cracks can be very small and sometimes hard to see so look carefully, especially in the corners. The fingers of the reed valve should snap shut with authority when lifted and released, if not they probably need replacing. Valves: If you ride a four stroke, you should take some time at least once a season to inspect the clearances on your intake and exhaust valves. Excessive play in valves can wreak havoc on a well-running engine, making it hard to start and idle as well as reducing power and because the valves open/close with such frequency, the valves and seats in the cylinder head wear out…causing the valves to loosen up into the head, and this adversely affects your engine. You can correct these tolerances by using shims to offset variances in the valve train. Most bikes are different and you must consult the owner’s manual for your specific bike’s valve checking procedure, tolerances involved, tools and parts required. This can be a long and involved (as well as costly) inspection/replacement procedure so it is often overlooked by casual enthusiasts. BREATHE EASY: EXHAUST INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE Exhaust canister and packing material: Exhausts on off-road bikes are fairly simple, whether two stroke or four and most maintenance of the exhaust is centered on the “muffler” or “silencer” portion of the unit. Inside most silencers is a disposable packing (baffle) material that helps re-route and quiet exhaust gases, and this material can be replaced. Packing material for exhausts is quite cheap, and not replacing this material can lead to issues such as bad idle, hard starting and excessive noise. To inspect your exhaust for baffle issues, it’s best to remove the rivets and replace when required, depending on how many hours the machine is operating. Signs of needing replacement include excessive noise and pieces of baffle material leaving (being blown out) the canister. You’ll have a good idea when it’s time, and keeping the noise down in our sport is a positive thing! CABLES: STRETCHED TO THE LIMIT? Control Cables: Cables are one of those items that are fairly simple and inexpensive to replace, but many riders don’t bother to address their condition until they fail. And when they fail you can really get stranded, so it’s best to visually inspect your clutch and brake cables prior to the season beginning and take corrective action where necessary. Most cables wear points are at the entry and exit/pivot points along its route, so first check where the cables are adjusted and whether they have free play as recommended in the owner’s manual. Now work the cables via your levers and check to see that the pull (and release) are smooth and consistent. Any undue play or added tension in the pull are cause for concern as throttle cables for example, can stick and cause a major catastrophe. Control cables are a high wear item and should be lubricated regularly using a cable lube device. Cables are relatively inexpensive and you should replace your cables when any visible wear/binding/bending/kinking is observed. UNDER PRESSURE: ENGINE COMPRESSION TESTING This is a maintenance item that when done regularly, can give you a good idea of how much and how fast your piston/rings and compression chamber components are wearing out. If your combustion chamber compression is not at least 100 PSI, your engine is in need of attention and saving it now before it grenades can save you lots of your hard earned money. Most engine builders are looking for a reading of 125 PSI to as high as 180 PSI as indication of a healthy compression. If the compression is reading low, it could be a sign of things like worn rings or valves/valve seats or even a bad head gasket! The testing is fairly easy, and you’ll need an engine compression tester and these range in cost from $25-$500 depending on complexity and brand. Make sure that the included adaptors contain the size your bike requires (same as spark plug size, usually 12, 14 or 18mm). Here is the basic drill: Disconnect the ignition Remove spark plug Screw in tester Open throttle Rotate kick start Take reading If you get a low reading, you’ll have more homework to do…is it leaky valves, or maybe bad rings? Using a leakdown tester can add more to the mix by telling you exactly how much loss you have and potentially the cause. THE FINAL WORD: In conclusion, preparing your bike by following the procedures above will significantly increase your chance of more seat time and less time fixing things. Items like the compression testing can indicate upcoming engine component failure quickly and inexpensively. Lower cost items like brake components and control cables are vital to get you home after a day on the trails and should be replaced whenever they require. A little homework up front can keep you from staying after class in moto-school.
  6. I have a gearing question. On my bike, I currently am running a 14/52 sprocket size. My problem is that it makes it impossible to putt around in 1st. The gear ratio is 3.71 for my current set up. If i switched to say a 13/49 or 48, while the gear ratio would be similar, would that lower front sprocket allow me to "putt" around a little more in first? I mainly ride tracks, but if I'm riding around the pasture or trail and need to turn around, my current 14/52 set up makes it obnoxiously quick off the clutch. I guess one positive of the 14/52 is that 2nd and 3rd gear is absolutely blistering fast. What are some of your favorite set ups?
  7. jblob

    Honda CRF450R (2005)

    0 comments

    I absolutely love this bike it tracks straight over hard terrain and has way more than enough power to haul my lazy butt through and over anything
  8. I ride a 2011 KTM 300 XC-W, comes stock with 13:48 sprockets. My very 1st ride was disappointing because I never found a useable gear--3rd was too high usually, 2nd was too low. I changed to running the 50 tooth rear, that fixed everything for enduro woods riding. If I were in the desert I might run 14:48 or 14:50, that would take testing though. I've settled on 13:50 for enduro riding, and even for west Texas desert riding because there are not high speeds like District 37 desert racing in SoCal. What gearing do you guys prefer?
  9. I pulled my swing arm off to do the yearly bearing service and was pretty bummed when I saw this... I service the bearings regularly and last time, which was the first time for me on this bike since I purchased it, I did notice the swing arm had a couple chain grooves. The previous owner had a chain bust and mangle a couple things, but nothing like this. Besides the chain rubbing through the swing arm the bearings are in fine shape with the exception of the thrust bearing on the side. What caused this? Is my alignment off or something? How do I fix that? How the hell did it rub through the aluminum without first going through the chain slider? Any thoughts or help is very appreciated.
  10. Haz_Fox

    Kawasaki KX250 (2002)

    0 comments

    I got this bike on the 6th of april 2015. A straight swap for my previous bike, a 2003 CRF230F. The KX r me has been A bloody good bike, it seems to like having money spent on it though. But from when I do get to ride it, It's worth every penny. She'll pull up onto the back wheel in any gear, and has the power to stop you from your speeds of 100 or so. Nearly come off a 5th gear wheelie once, was a shit scare haha. I'm only 15 and weigh roughly 60 kg so I'm fairly light for the bike. SO it can blast along easily carrying my weight. I just wish I had a bit more cash so I could do more to it. As of now it's in the shop having a tune up, and new sprockets/chain. it really needs a top and bottom end rebuild but I just can't afford it DX So I just have to ride it on the odd occasion and not thrash it. But that's hard. I want to be riding constantly!
  11. Varls1243

    Yamaha YZ250 (2001)

    0 comments

    Bought it in ok condition for $1300, rebuilding it this winter.
  12. rockstarkx

    Kawasaki KX250F (2010)

    0 comments

    Kx250f It's has Renthal sprockets chain guards and handle bars. Along with all new plastic with a 2013 front fender also put on a aftermarket skid plate which has def helped out, my old one cracked. It also has a rock star graphic kit on it which made the bike step up to the next level in my book! Still has stock brakes and rims! It's got sand shark paddle on it, love going to the dunes bike flys great and the front forks made riding down there easy. Not really a crazy bike but still one of the best bikes I have owned the power is where I need it and like a lot people say the power just keeps going as u lay into the throttle. If anyone asked me to help them with a bike it would have to be a Kwai or Honda just all around great bikes i have owned both. But still you Gotta love Kwai they just look awesome!!
  13. ThumperTalk

    Renthal Final Drive Kit

    9 reviews

    Kit includes front and rear sprocket with same gear ratios as stock and a Gold Renthal R1-428 chain Saves over 2 lbs. over the stock 520 O-ring chain and steel rear sprocket Improves acceleration and responsiveness with less revolving un-sprung weight Front sprocket is made from super strong nickel chromoly and is grooved to clear mud and increase chain life Rear sprocket is made from 7075 T-6 aluminum which is precision machined with self-cleaning mud grooves and lightening holes
  14. mikesullyyy

    Chain question

    I just picked up an rk xw ring master link chain. I dont currently have the rivot tool i was just wondering if i could get the master link pressed in and then put it on the bike or if id have to already have it set up on the bike? Thanks everyone
  15. dirtbiker247

    TTr230 Exhaust

    Will this exhaust fit a ttr 230.
  16. NateInRoundRockTX

    Chain / Sprocket

    I am posting this on the general dirt bike forum instead of the make / model forum to get more responses from the community. I am looking to purchase chain and sprockets for my 2006 YZ125 that is a D.I.D. brand, DMA2 model, 520 chain with stock 112 links and 13/48 tooth SunStar sprockets. It is a non-sealed chain. I want to change this around. I read somewhere that this bike is set up from factory for a 170 pound rider. I weigh 168 naked and am about 5'8" height. I ride trails on various terrain here in Round Rock, Texas with rock, sand, water and loam. I go through it all. I have troubles down low going up moderate hills and through the mucky stuff with the 13/48 sprockets, I will be going to a 13/50 setup and I prefer to go to a sealed chain and steel sprockets for durability and longevity at the sacrifice of power and gaining weight. I figure that going to the 50 tooth rear will balance this out a little bit. I every once in awhile will go to a track but mostly enjoy the light nimbleness of the YZ125 compared to my 2003 WR250F. I do not race competition.There are times I prefer riding the WR and times I prefer the YZ, but lets not get into that conversation. I have a 2014 Parts Unlimited catalog for reference but will be shopping various websites for price comparison. My questions are below. 1- SPROCKETS - What are reputable durable steel sprockets? Here are the 2014 Parts Unlimited prices for the sprockets that I have found that are a reasonable price. If any of you can recommend some other brand, I am listening. Keep in mind, this is just what I have compared.Tag, Vortex, Renthal, Parts Unlimited. Renthal only offered an aluminum rear sprocket no steel. Sprockets listed below were my picks from the catalog. Front Sprocket Rear Sprocket MOOSE - $18 part # M602-47-13 $42 part # 1210-0865 $60 total SUNSTAR- $25 part # 38813 $45 part # 2-359250 $70 total JT- $16 part # 1212-0512 $31 part # 1212-0240 $47 total 2- CHAINS - What are the reputable good long-lasting sealed chains (o-ring or x-ring)? - Will going to a sealed chain fit and not make any contact with the engine case on a YZ125? I have read that some chains won't work with certain bikes. This is one of my concerns. - Since I am going up two teeth on the rear, I assume adding two links of chain will work. 114 links instead of 112. - There were so many choices for chain that I almost got a migraine head-ache. I was told that the gold chain stuff is good. Moose, D.I.D., RK, Renthal, EK, JT, Regina, SunStar, were my choices. I will try and list what I narrowed my search down to but am open to your opinions on anything that will fit. RK - sealed UW-Ring (MXU) GB520MXU part # 1222-0192 $129 RK - sealed X-Ring (XSO) 520XSO part # RK520XSO-114 $112 RENTHAL - sealed 520R32 Works O-Ring part # 1222-0093 $104
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