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Found 125 results

  1. snikwad003

    Kawasaki KX250 (2006)

    0 comments

    2 wheeled terrestrial rocket ship
  2. FlamingRadar

    Kawasaki KX125 (2005)

    0 comments

    The bike is actually a 2007. I really enjoy the bike.
  3. halo.spaceboy

    Husaberg FS570 (2011)

    0 comments

    Review: Once I got it setup how I wanted it... it became the best bike I have owned. 6-speed, Fuel injected, 250lbs, 56.5 stock WHP(I have the dyno), full suspension (yes, it is identical to FE setup), hydraulic clutch, brembo brakes, and everything is made to be disassembled trackside. No complaints! People think that the range on it is bad. Most riders fill up every 100 miles and this can do that plus some on a tank. I am a little bit frustrated that there is no tripometer, There is an aftermarket switch you can get (speedo dependent.. http://www.ktm-parts.com/54814073000.html).. but i never did. Instead I bought a Trail Tech.. it is easy to setup and I got a great deal on a voyager. Trail Techs can connect right to the factory speedo sensor so that was easy and it will give you a tach too! I need to point out that everyone thinks there is a problem with parts availability.. wake up, its 2016 & we have the internet now. Here are some of the regular places I go to for parts: http://www.husabergshop.se/ (good KTM part number reference) http://www.ktm-parts.com/ (I get a lot of stuff here) http://www.gunnisonmotorsports.com/aboutus.htm http://slavensracing.com/ https://www.brpmoto.com/ http://www.enduroeng.com/ Maintenance: 1. Valve shims. You probably will have to shim the valves after the breakin.. after that, they have not moved.. 2. Oil Change frequency is no different than any other KTM/MXer. Everyone looking to go to this bike complains about oil change frequency... STOP TRYING TO COMMUTE on this thing. You easily can.. and sometimes I do... but I know that i will have to change the oil. This is not a daily commuter, it is a daily monster. There is a reason why honda civics go for 10k miles without an oil change.. they are commuter vehicles, that is their thing. If you want a commuter bike, buy a DRZ (I love my DRZs BTW). Also.. yes, motorex and KTM filters are expensive but you dont HAVE to use them. There are alternative filters however the alternate oil options that you SHOULD use are also expensive. Necessary/Recommended upgrades and Known issues: ***Dont buy a piggyback/parallel unit such as the dynojet/JD tuner/bazzaz.. I tried the JDJetting one and it was very disappointing. I still have it.. sitting in a box somewhere.. what a waste. Instead, just do the below... 1. US Model runs lean as hell stock.. .. remove the evap canister .. talk to Fritz Kadlec(the owner) and send him your ECU to flash with the competition map. This is night and day. 2. Get the timing/ignition map switch.. KTM/Berg factory is good.. or the TT Online one. Set it to 'wild' and you might as well forget about it. 3. Get a full pipe. The factory exhaust is very restrictive. I have FMF megabomb setup.. it is cheaper and has only a fraction of less gain than AK. 4. DNA Air Filter.. dont mess with the twin air and so on.. just get DNA, it is the best and is as easy to maintain as a K&N. (have to order from EU) 5. Everyone says the factory fuel pump is crap.. rumor always seems to be that it is dues to excessive heat. I am not sure I believe that. Regardless, I had a B$%^$ of a time with the pump. Bike would run awesome, then randomly die while riding. After power off/on, fuel pump doesn't prime. Replaced the pump with CACycleWorks & same thing. CA Cycleworks sent me another one for free (something about the heat index testing may not have been done on the one I received). No worries.. after getting it all back together. Similar problem. Long story short, I soldered the leads to the fuel pump on, never had an issue since. I dont know why it is good now.. just know that the bike vibrates pretty hard while under throttle. It has been almost 3 years without issue. 6. The bike is hot.. and runs hot. Use track coolant.. (watterwetter, engineice.. etc) Dont use normal fluids, it doesn't work as well. KTM makes a fan kit for it. I recommend it otherwise you will probably boil your radiator over (depending where you live). 7. Boiling over your radiator onto the road? See #7 and maybe get a motion pro or similar coolant catch canister. 8. Have some spare fasteners laying around. (I did mention this thing shakes, right?) 9. The seat is a wooden plank. There are some options from www.fishersaddlebags.com/ or seatconcepts.com/ but they are ugly as f#%@ 10. I did get a bigger rear sprocket because I just wanted more low end launch. I can still go 100 MPH easily and it pulls hard up hills through 5th now.
  4. Countrymoto54

    Qlink XF 200 (2014)

    0 comments

    Mine is a 2010 Konker sm200 ( Canadian model ) . Identical . Forced to mod to get it to travel on Alberta highways 70mph limit , new top speed is 55 mph . Some minor manufacturing flaws . Great beginner bike .
  5. ThumperTalk

    RK 520 EXW XW-Ring Chain

    3 reviews

    Chain Type: 520 Superior wear resistance Nitrile Butadiene seals Heat-treated Tensile strength 8,500 lbs.
  6. DarkCRF

    DID X-Ring VT2 chain

    15 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Half the Power Loss (Compared with Normal O-Ring) D.I.D’s PATENTED X-Ring construction reduces friction by twisting between the side plates instead of being squashed. Normal O-Rings and other makers’ modified O-Rings have squashed points that increase friction. The twisting action of the X-Ring disperses the pressure and minimizes power loss. X-Ring is a U.S.A. Registered Trademark of D.I.D; Daido Kogyo Co. Ltd. Japan 1.5 to 2 TImes Longer Wear Resistance (Compared with Normal O-Ring) The X-Ring’s four contact points greatly increase its sealing performance. This keeps the dirt out and the lubrication in much better than any other O-Ring. X-Rings have the greatest wear resistance of any other type of O-Ring or Non-O-Ring chain.
  7. CDLVelo

    Yamaha WR250F (2009)

    0 comments

    Love this bike. Free mods, AIS removal, still learning how to ride after 20 years without a dirt bike!
  8. LittleCRF

    Master link

    I have a 09 crf 230l. Ive been looking for the master link for 40 minutes. I see no clip. Is it facing out or in? Need help ASAP
  9. I have a 2014 kx 450f. I have replaced the stock chain with a DID ert2, stock length (114). It seems to stretch every time I ride. It wouldn't be so bad if it wouldnt clank against the swingarm. I've decided to go with a DID VT2 chain. I was thinking of going with a longer length so I could run the rear axle further back. Can anyone tell me what I can expect from doing this? I'm guessing it will help keep the front wheel down, but will it effect turning in a positive/negative way? Also, if I did go with a longer length would a 116 link be the one to go with?
  10. turtlemoto

    Suzuki DR-Z400SM (2008)

    0 comments

    So far I like the bike it is low on power and heavy the weight doesn't bother me though, its fun to throw around and since I mod everything that I own. parts are cheap and have a lot of support and options
  11. hezzdown

    KTM 450 XC-W (2009)

    0 comments

    This is one of the best bikes I have owned. It does everything well. It has been dead reliable. Puts a smile on my face every time I throw a leg over it. I bought the bike as a left over in 2011 and at the time of this review it has 1400 miles and 70 hours on it. The only thing that has failed during this time is a radiator cap.
  12. grayracer513

    When do you change your chain?

    Change it when it's 2% longer than it was new. Assuming a 5/8" pitch chain (#520, 528, 530, 50, etc.), the length of ten full links pin to pin should be 6.25", 20 links, 12.5". Two percent over each of these would be 6.375" (6 3/8") and 12.75" (12 3/4"). The chain must be drawn taught when measuring, which is easily accomplished by placing a piece of wood or a tool handle between the chain and sprocket and rolling it under the chain to tighten it. Another very accurate means of measuring the chain is to use a typical 6-7" vernier caliper on a 10 link section as shown in the attachment. Measure from one roller surface to the 11th one, and measure several sections. Compensating for the .400" roller diameter, the new length of the chain measured this way is 5.85", and 2% over is 6.0". Once the chain is that much longer than spec, it starts chewing on the teeth of the sprockets. New sprockets can be installed without replacing the chain so long as it is 1% or less longer than new without any kind of problem.
  13. mdavidg

    Chain question?

    I have an 05 drz400e currently in SM trim since i bought it, i was wondering for some reason when i do a hard accelerate after a hard brake my chain seems to jolt or sort of absorb all tension and then snap into drive if that makes any sence at all. at first i thought it was that the chain was too slack so i tightened it and still the same issue. could it be that its still to slack or could it be to do with the side to side movement in the chain? as i am currently getting some quite bad tire rub aswell, would it be best to just get a new chain/sprocket set? any info is appreciated and thanks to anyone whos helped me before, some of you know im a complete Noob at the whole Bike scene haha and tend to ask quite a few questions but i guess i have to learn some way....
  14. Hi folks I'm thinking of renewing my chain and sprockets and was wondering what the best ones would be to replace with? I have read that its worth while going down 1 tooth on the front for a bit more poke whilst not having to change the length of the chain, but what brand is best? I would naturally go for renthal because you know they are a safe bet, but thought I would see what people have been using as i'm sure there is a cheaper alternative. That then leads me to my second question... How do I go about changing them? I've been on Youtube looking at videos of other bikes having them done like a CRF and DRZ but wondered if I need any special tools? Or is it best to hand it to a mechanic? I appreciate any help .
  15. notenuffridetime

    Primary Drive RDO O-ring chain

    1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Sprocket kits include the following Stock size Primary Drive steel front sprocket Stock size Primary Drive steel rear sprocket Stock size Primary Drive O-Ring chain All front and rear sprockets are manufactured to O.E.M., specs using high grade hardened steel . All match original equipment exactly for perfect fit and size . The RDO O-Ring chain provides outstanding durability and long wear characteristics . Features solid bushings with high quality pin material, o-rings and lubricant. Average tensile strength 7,850 lbs.
  16. hondacrfinct

    Kawasaki KX450F (2010)

    0 comments

    Smoothest, Fastest, Most Powerful Bike i've ever owned. Currently Race J-Day Offroad and New England MX (450B)
  17. 1 review

    Chain Length: 25ft. Chain Type: 520 25 Ft 520 STD Standard Series Bulk Chain
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