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Found 289 results

  1. 7 reviews

    Fresh, clean scented silicone detailer restores the factory shine Excellent for use as a polish, undercoat protectant and light lubricant Repels water and dries completely
  2. 1 review

    Ultimate lubricant for 2-cycle racing engines The most biodegradable 2-cycle oil available New additive keeps power valves and rings even cleaner Premix only, not for injection systems
  3. 1 review

    It is concentrated, a light spray is all it takes! Revolutionary new chain lubrication Much higher lube retention results in greatly reduced chain and sprocket wear and increased free spinning Ideal for O-ring, X-ring, competition and standard chains For case order 12
  4. 0 comments

    The thing rips, when it runs! Having major problems, cant get the thing working for the life of me, hardly starts at this point.
  5. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION Proven to cool and quiet engines and gear boxes. Use in ALL air-cooled and water-cooled 4-stroke Engine, Primaries and Transmissions that call for SAE 20W-50 motor oil. KEY BENEFITS Lower oil temperatures Longer oil life Longer component life Less noise, fewer leaks All Lucas Motorcycle Oils meet JASO specifications Meets or exceeds: API SG / SF / CC / CD, JASO MA & JASO MA-2, ACEA A3
  6. I thought this week it would be a good idea to share with you an example of what can happen when dirt gets passed an engine's air filter. This will be a short post, but a picture is worth a thousand words. In my next post I’ll go into detail on how to properly care for your air filter to help ensure that this never happens to you. The series of photos below shows a sad case where dirt has found its way into the engine and wreaked havoc. The photos are all from the KX250F I bought on the cheap with the sole intention of rebuilding the engine and documenting the process for my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. Honestly, I couldn’t have bought a better bike for the project, nearly everything on the bike was worn out or screwed up from the previous owner. Here is how the air filter and airbox looked prior to disassembly. Here is the back side of the air filter. The filter was completely dry. There was no grease on the sealing face of the filter or the airbox flange. In this particular case, dirt could have got into the engine through the filter or between the filter and sealing flange. The amount of dried mud in the airbox and on the bike also makes me suspicious that muddy water got into the engine instead of just dirt. I honestly can’t say for certain. The airbox itself was also extremely dirty. Once the engine was disassembled I carefully examined the piston assembly and cylinder bore. At first, I could not get any of the rings to move freely. Only after I had pounded a pick between the ring ends of the compression ring was I able to get the compression ring off. As I removed the compression ring, a load of sand came with it. This photo of the compression ring doesn’t do the situation justice. Some of the dirt was actually removed from the ring as I handled it. Here is a close up of the compression ring. Note all the grit! The oil rings didn’t fair any better, were just as stuck, and had a lot of dirt on them. Here you can see dirt inside the ring grooves and at the edges. Here is dirt I rubbed off the oil rings. Miraculously (and fortunately for me) whether the engine sucked in dirty air or water, it happened quickly and stuck the rings to the piston so they could no longer seal correctly, and the engine subsequently lost compression and power in a hurry. This speculation is based on the fact that the cylinder bore showed no signs of excessive wear or damage and it measured well within the service limits. This is an outcome I never though possible and is hard to believe. I hope you enjoyed this brief write up on the damage that can result from ingesting dirt, whether from abnormal circumstances such as dropping a running engine into a mud hole or simply neglecting to take care of the air filter when running the engine in dusty conditions. In my next post I’ll show you how to care for and install your filters so these problems don’t happen to you! Questions or comments are always welcome and I enjoy hearing from you all! -Paul https://www.diymotofix.com/ If you like my blog, click the "Follow this blog" button in the upper right. You must be registered to do this.
  7. 0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  8. I'm running out of my current premix (Penrite MC2ST semi synthetic) and have decided to try the yamalube 2r full synthetic oil. When I do switch over, do I need to drain my tank completely, or can I just add some new stuff in with a half full tank of old stuff? Thanks in advance
  9. 631bikelyfe

    2t Oil

    What is the best premix oil and gear oil to run in my ktm 2t
  10. Last time I rode my bike it was running rough and popping at low throttle. Next time I went to ride it it wouldn't start, seemed like it wasn't getting gas (it had spark). Numerous kicks and the plug was bone dry. So I got around to taking the carb apart yesterday and the float bowl is full of black bits. WTH! Where on earth did they come from. I found the source, the inside of my fuel line was disintegrating and was becoming little black bits in the carb. I took the carb apart, cleaned it thoroughly and it still won't start, there must be bits stuck in there that I didn't get out. I'm going to have to take it completely apart again and try somehow to get all that crap out, it must be stuck in the small orifices. I went down to the local NAPA store for a new piece of fuel line, the guy said they see it all the time, its the ethanol eating up rubber. And the feds want to INCREASE the amount of ethanol!
  11. Alright I have a 2000 cr125 and recently changed the exhaust gaskets due to they where leaking more then I thought was normal and since I have changed the gasket it is leaking worse then before also shooting way more out of the back of the pipe too. I thought it was running rich so changed the oil mix around to play with it and see and it didn't help checked for cracks, made sure the exhaust was on correctly and still leaking I have ran out of ideas on what could be causing this so I turn to the help of you guys let me know what your ideas are and if something fixes it ill let you know but I need input asap. Thanks
  12. I just rebuilt my water pump and engine this winter. I ran 50/50 water and vinegar through the engine to flush coolant out. After doing this once I added new engine ice to the radiator. After ride for about 5 min I noticed coolant coming out of the bleed hole. all of the coolant went out of the bleed hole.
  13. I have tried to find info on this oil by doing a search but I can not find anything. I did find info on motul 3000. Is motul 7100 10w40 ester okay to run in my crf 250 l? I hope so as I just put some in.
  14. Looking for a good oil alternative for a 2014 450sxf . Shits gettin expensive looking for sumthin cheap but good quality. What are you guys using?
  15. What is the best oil to use for my montesa?
  16. I have a rad guard on the left hand side but it has dawned on me that not much is protecting the coolant reservoir. Is there some line of protective bracket a available?
  17. What kind of oil do you use? What ratio do u run and what kind of bike do u have???
  18. I've never seen it mentioned by anyone but is it worth the trouble to drill & tap the swing arm and maybe the link for grease fittings if you already have it off? It's easy enough and as long as it doesn't weaken the assembly, I don't see a problem with it. Is there enough "meat" on these parts to do this? I've never had mine off to look at it.
  19. Have been using PJ1 spray on for the last couple years and finally ran out. I was not really fond of the spray stuff as I don't think it saturates the filter enough, but wanted to use it until I ran out. What do you guys use/recommend and why?
  20. Hey guys, Did an oil change on the DRZ400 with the white jug of Rotella 15w40 I had sitting in the garage, since everyone seems to always default to it. I also have Rotella T6 5w40 that i used to run in my Ninja before I sold it, but I opted for the heavier weight this time. I've looked around, but only semi-definitive topic i've found is here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/978633-anybody-run-rotella-t-15w40/ This is the stuff I've put in, for visual reference: I haven't really noticed any issues after 400 miles, except that after riding for a while, the top end clatter gets a lot louder on my machine. I've set the MCCT properly (press in until pushing on the tensioner, start bike, back out until bag of hammers, push back in until it stops, then half turn). So- have I been shaving life off of the engine? Should I dump and move to another oil, or leave as-is?
  21. Wow, I just got this 2002 xr250 and have been commuting to work about 90mi round trip. I have the valves adjusted properly, and keep it below 55 most of the time. I ride dirt roads and secondary roads the whole way. After an oil change yesterday, I doubled checked my oil level on the dipstick after today's commute and ...... it didn't register on the dipstick at all? I read some other posts but the bike does not smoke and I'm not beating on the valves. Is this type of oil consumption normal? Can I reduce the oil disappearance?
  22. Does it help I am using antifreeze right now and my bike gets real hot in the tight stuff will engine ice help how about if I mix it with water?
  23. Why would the Japanese OEM's not lubricate things like steering heads and swingarms? See attached new 2014 Honda CRF 250
  24. Try it. I use to use this stuff on my 250x then switched to rotella on both the engine and transmission. Rotella sucked on transmission. Made my 250 shift like shit. Since I got my 450x i've been using the honda 10-40 for both sides. Last oil change i decided to use the honda hp transmission oil. Wow, what a difference. Easier shifts, easier to find neutral, and it just seems like it goes through the gears better/faster. Good stuff.
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