Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Chemical'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Dirt Bikes
    • General Dirt Bike Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Dirt Bike Technical Forums
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Dirt Bike Regional Discussion
  • General
    • General Forums
  • ATV / UTV
    • General ATV / UTV Forums
    • Make/Model Specific
    • ATV / UTV Regional Discussion
  • Inside TT
    • Advertise
    • Community Sponsors
    • Site Usage & Functions
    • Bug Reports & Suggestions
  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's FAQ/Help & Discussion
  • RokFox's Current Kit
  • RokFox's What's New
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Forum
  • Pittsburgh Area Off-Road N@'s Welcome!
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Club Forum
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Discussion
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Places you ride
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Discussion
  • Sonoma Coast Skinny Twisties's Discussion
  • Sonoma Coast Skinny Twisties's Topics
  • New Mexico Trail Riders's Discussion
  • Okanagan Off Road Motocycle Club's Club Forum
  • Redwood Riders's Club Forum
  • jack graybill's Club Photos
  • TAS trail/Enduro riders's Club Forum

Categories

  • Universal Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Japanese Bikes
    • Honda Parts & Accessories
    • Kawasaki Parts & Accessories
    • Suzuki Parts & Accessories
    • Yamaha Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Euro Bikes
    • Beta Parts & Accessories
    • Husqvarna Parts & Accessories
    • KTM Parts & Accessories
    • Other Euro Parts & Accessories
  • Motorcycles
    • Off-Road Motorcycles
    • Dual Sport Motorcycles
    • Street Motorcycles
  • Powersports Gear & Apparel

Products Categories

Vehicles Categories

Garages

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's Club Calendar
  • RokFox's Enduro Ride Schedule
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Calendar
  • So Cal Flattrack's Events
  • Walker Valley Single Track Riders's Club Calendar
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Club Calendar
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Events
  • Sonoma Coast Skinny Twisties's Calendar
  • New Mexico Trail Riders's Events
  • Okanagan Off Road Motocycle Club's Club Calendar
  • Redwood Riders's Club Calendar
  • jack graybill's Club Calendar
  • TAS trail/Enduro riders's Club Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests

Found 288 results

  1. Kx450fguy

    Rotella T

    So I picked up a jug of rotella T 3 weeks ago. I have seen so much information on here and good reviews I figured I could at least give it a shot without totally ruining my motor considering it is about 2 ride after a full rebuild. I was worried because most of the people using it seemed to be trail riders but I still was willing to try. Just a little background I ride a 2012 kx450f. I ride open B and 450b. All mx and I hate to say it but I'm constantly hitting the rev limiter. Mostly right before landing but still it's alot harder on the bike then most trail riders I change my oil to rotella T, new filter, throw a fresh air filter in and load up to go riding. Hit the track and my bike is running like absolute crap all day, missing shifts, sounded terrible. My mechanic happened to be at the track and I told him I was very concerned about the motor and asked him how meticulous he was because it sounded that bad. I take it home, throw a new filter in, change the oil and load up for the weekend and head to Southern California. Take the bike out again, same results, missing shifts, engine sounds like its ready to blow, clutch somehow starts to slip this time but it was a very hot day so maybe that contributed but with the luck I'm having with this oil I wouldn't be surprised if It was from this stuff. At this point I did two motos and decide to drain the oil, throw some maxima synthetic blend in that I had in the trailer and finish out two more practice sessions. My bike was back to normal. Clutch worked great. Shifts were back to normal and my motor felt like a motor with 7 hours on it should feel and sounded crisp. I don't know. Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe I'm crazy but I've Been using maxima since I started riding so for me to be open minded enough to try this stuff was a big deal and I wasn't impressed at all. Maybe if you are trail riding or not on the limiter very often this stuff will get the job done. It sounds like in those circumstances the oil works well and for how often I ride I wish I could use it since its so cheap but at this point I'm not going to compromise performance and potentially longevity of a $2500 motor to save $5 a week. If you are a decent mx rider I strongly recommend not using this stuff. I'm sure on diesels and low rpm machines this stuff works great but on 11,000-15,000 rpm machines (especially people who actually use the motor to it's limit) I just don't think this is the place to cut corners. Like I said I tried not to judge it and I was very open minded I feel but at this point I am very disappointed with this oil and I will not trust it in my bike
  2. I am going to use engine oil in the gearbox and engine as I would be paranoid about putting transmission oil in the engine by mistake by all accounts 10/40 motorcycle oil is the one to use and readily available is it worth the extra money to use fully synthetic oil or is semi synthetic perfectly acceptable I intend to change at the same intervals no matter which I use. I was thinking every 4 hrs both ends, With an engine filter every other change. Would this be enough ?
  3. Tricking out your ride, this category is self-explanatory. What cool gizmos, decals, seat covers, anodized parts, frame paints, plastic color changes, exhaust system, cylinder heads, ti-bolts, carbon fiber parts<<<<, and any thing you can think of. Post if it if you got it!
  4. wheelieslowrider

    Lingo

    I think that us noobs here with only a couple dozen posts or so need this most. post any lingo that you think is not widely known. WOT=wide open throttle (P.S. it doesn't actually have to be that obscure)
  5. MotoDox

    Rotella oil

    Just curious how many guys are using rotella synthetic oil? What weights are available. I've been running spectro 15-40 full syn but it's like 18$ quart and I'm over that shitZ.
  6. bbde17

    Another oil question.

    Sorry I didn't see anything in my search. So I figured I'd ask Anyone run rotella t 15-40 oil in there 2 stroke transmission. A couple guys at the track ( who are very close to pro riders) say they run it. And that I could be as well in my bike ( 2014 yz250). I've never heard of using a diesel oil in a bike They says it's much cheaper. And does the same job Any input would be great
  7. royadams

    Piston blow by

    What's your take on this. I had a replate a little over a year ago. I took my bike down to freshen it up and this is what I found. It seams like either the piston or the cylinder is out of round.
  8. teddy montana

    Jet kit question

    I have 09 450 exc. I wanna do the jd jet kit and punch the exhaust. Do u need to have a fan kit to do these mods? Or can I do the jet kit without a fan? I'm running engine ice. Thanks
  9. Conner_Steezel

    Motor oil for 2-stroke

    I have a 05 kx 250 and I've been running 80 weight trany oil. Was wondering if that is chill or I should use something different. Any help is appreciated.
  10. Spent a good bit of time lurking the suspension threads. Seemed fairly easy to rebuild/revalve a KYB shock. Did it over the last couple of days. It was easy. GOLD VALVE: Very early I purchased a Gold Valve kit. If I had waited until reading all the revalve threads I probably wouldn't have bothered. Since I had it, I used it. I don't regret it. Made it easy, gave me a bunch of valve stack ideas and a bunch of extra shims. Pictured are my stacks. The shim packages are numbered based on shim thickness. K1006 = 0.10 mm, K2006 = 0.20 mm, etc. There are a huge number of shims in each package.
  11. StamFR

    premix ratio....

    hi there i own a 125sx im using a 50/1 ratio manual recomends 40/1ratio previous owner used 50/1 and told me to leave it 50/1 i changed the jetting from main jet 170 piot 35 needle nozf clip2 air screw1,1/4 to main jet 185 needle r1469h #3 pilot 40 air screw 1 what ratio should i use 1/32 or 1/40?
  12. Connor Corrigan

    2013 RMZ450 Burning Engine Oil

    Hey I've got a fairly new 2013 RMZ450 that is my pride and joy but it has recently started burning engine oil for some reason, I service it every 5-10 hours, fresh oil, fresh oil filters everything, and I clean and oil the air filter every second ride. Lately it has started blowing blueish-blackish smoke when I first start it up and I've lately been checking the oil and after every ride, long or short the engine oil always comes up low. At the moment I'm really pissed off as the bike has only done 20hrs and is like new, so does anyone out there know what the issue could be? Thanks in advance!
  13. flrider

    Grips

    What is the consensus on the best way to attach your handgrips? With or without wrap around handgards. I am getting ready to put some new grips on and I was wondering if anyone had come up with a better way than glue and wire. Thanks, Dan
  14. I just recently started riding with over the boot pants and love it. The pockets are nice for the obvious reasons but the thing I like most is the fact that I get "0" boot rub on my bike now. So far so good but what is the downside them?
  15. jclark15

    01 rm250 coolant problem

    Hey tt guys I'm new to the forum and also to the world of rm's. I just bought a really clean 01 rm250 and the thing runs like an animal but the one thing I don't understand is the radiators. When I looked in the radiator to see the fluid it was like 1/2 under the top of the veins so I added some till it was at normal level but when I started the bike it puked all the fluid I just put in. And it wasn't after heat built up it was as soon as I started the bike. Don't really know what's going on. Any help is much appreciated
  16. 2grimjim

    Coolant 411

    Just added an Athena 300 kit on my 2016 Yamaha YZ250X, and after draining the stock blue colored coolant, what drained out wasn't nearly enough to refill with the 300 top end. So.... this is what lead to my quest about coolant color coding, types, and compatibility. When I worked as a Yamaha/Suzuki/Polaris service tech, It never really crossed my mind. The coolant that Yamaha and Suzuki were sometimes blue, sometimes pink, and sometimes yellow. Polaris was (is) always looked like the same green stuff sold at auto parts stores. But, the service replacement coolant sold by Yamaha and Suzuki were always Green. When I asked our Yamaha and Suzuki Service Representatives what the difference was between the OEM and the replacement green coolants, the both had the same reply: "Coolant should be replaced every 2 years. If the coolant is low, advise your customers to drain and flush the cooling system and replace the coolant with what you stock on your shelf." Hmmm.... Ok. Still didn't answer my question, but I'll just do what the man says. Turns out there are significant differences between coolant types. Most of the changes have been made in the last 20 years but prior to that, you had one choice. The green stuff. Now, as of today, you have 3 general classes of coolant (excluding running straight water or waterless coolant). They are as follows: Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Inorganic Acid Technology IAT is what we all know as the classic green coolant that has been around for ages. It is a mixture of either Ethylene Glycol (toxic) or Propylene Glycol (non-toxic, the same stuff in your Mio), and corrosion inhibitors containing phosphate and silicate acids. Now, before I go any further, I'm going to clarify what exactly "Silicates" are. Silicates are not the same as Silica. I've read a ton of nonsense about coolants containing Silica and it being used to "scrub the insides" of your engine. This is a bunch of B.S. Coolants have never contained Silica. Silicon is an element (like Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Carbon). In its pure form, it's used to make chips for electronic circuits. Silica is Silicon Oxide (SiO2). It's the mineral Quartz and the largest component of beach sand. Silica is not soluble in water. Silicone is a synthetic rubber that replaces Carbon with Silicon. Silicate(s) are an anionic Silicon compound. Various types of Silicates are water soluble compounds that are acidic, hence their use as a corrosion inhibitor in coolants. There is endless (incorrect) writings about how Japanese manufacturers don't use coolants with Silicates because the Silicates will grind up water pump seals. Nonsense. Japanese manufacturers don't use Silicates because they believe that Silicate compounds are too chemically aggressive and given the right conditions, will cause excessive pitting in the areas of highest heat (near the exhaust ports). Phosphate and Silicate corrosion inhibitors in green coolant are considered 'fast acting'. They provide a nearly instantaneous barrier to the bare metal internal surfaces but are consumed quickly in this process. IAT coolants must be replaced every 2 years. After 2 years, the coolant my still have it's boil-over and freeze protection, but it's ability to prevent corrosion is gone. IAT coolants are NOT sold as 'long life' coolants. In order to be considered 'long life', the coolant needs to have a corrosion inhibitor package good for 5 years. There are 'low Silicate' and 'Silicate free' brands of coolants available the appease the Japanese manufacturers. Just as there are 'Phosphate free' brands for European brands (Zerex G05 is a Phosphate free HOAT coolant). Low Silicate types are usually sold as 'universal coolants' and advertised that they can be mixed with any type coolant (but they reduce the lifespan of any long life coolant to 2 years) Zerex makes an "Asian Formula", coolant that contains Phosphates but no Silicates. It is available in Red and Blue. The formulation is the same for both, there's just a choice of colors for the anal compulsive. Organic Acid Technology OAT coolants started life with GM's Dexcool in 1996. They are usually orange. As fo 2013, both GM and Ford use Dexcool. OAT coolants do not use Silicates, Phosphates, Borates, Nitrates, Nitrites, or any other type of fast acting, agressive corrosion inhibitor. The ingredients are proprietary. The advantage with OAT coolants is they offer protection against corrosion for 5 years. However there is a problem with Dexcool and GM was sued over it. The brilliant engineers at GM did not test the Dexcool additives for compatibility with the Nylon 66 used in for the intake manifold gaskets used in most everything they built. Given the right conditions, the Dexcool would soften the Nylon and create a coolant leak into the intake ports. OAT (Dexcool) coolants should NEVER be used where the manufacturer didn't use it from the factory. GM allegedly changed the specification for Dexcool after they were sued, but the potential still exists for incompatibility with certain elastomers used in gaskets, seals and o-rings. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology HOAT coolants were a response by manufacturers other than GM that wanted the long life coolant but were concerned about protecting against corrosion while using a less aggressive OAT component. The HOAT coolants used by manufacturers used organic acid inhibitors that were less susceptible to attacking plastics and rubbers but were not as effective at providing initial corrosion protection. All HOAT coolants add some inorganic acid compounds to make up the difference. Ford switched to a HOAT specification between 2003 and 2004 model years without any changes to cooling system components, gaskets or seals. Zerex G05 is a HOAT coolant that contains some Silicates. HOAT specifications for most Asian manufacturers will contain Phosphates but not Silicates, HOAT spec for most European manufacturers will have Silicates but no Phosphates. European manufacturers do not like to use Phosphates because of hard water issues in Europe. The Phosphate corrosion inhibitors will react with hard water and cause precipitates (coolant sludge). Many Industrial, commercial, and heavy duty diesel manufacturers specify HOAT with Borates, Molybdates, Nitrates, or Nitrites to combat cylinder liner cavitation pitting. All coolants advertised as 'Long Life' will be either OAT or HOAT formulations. Now, what does all this business mean with my dirt bike? The color, unless it's orange or green, color is pretty meaningless. Japanese no-Silicate coolant can be pink, blue, or red. There are several universal coolants (Prestone makes one) on the market that will work with any coolant type if you are worried about topping off your OEM factory fill. Japanese manufacturers in general specify a coolant type with little or no Silicates. European Manufacturers in general specify a coolant type containing no Phosphates. No European or Japanese manufacturer recommends the use of Dexcool or a straight OAT type coolant. And Honda and Toyota specifically prohibits Dexcool in any of their vehicles. As far as Polaris, and Arctic Cat (I know, not motorcycles), you are probably safe with any green coolant. But knowing how most ATV's and UTV's are used, a universal long life would probably be a better choice. Universal long life coolants are usually a HOAT type. So, how do I know if my coolant corrosion inhibitors are depleted? If you replace your coolant every 2 years, you don't need to worry about it. But, if you must know, there are 2 tests you can do to check if the corrosion inhibitors are still working. The 1st test is to use a voltmeter. Remove the radiator cap, place the ground probe on the frame (or battery ground cable if you have one), and the positive lead inside the radiator immersed in coolant but not touching the radiator, and observe the voltage. It should be less than 0.3V (300mV). I'm not 100% convinced that this test is an accurate indication. My preference is to use wide range pH test strips. Old school coolant can range between 10.5 and 14. Newer long-life coolants will be between 8 and 10.5. In all cases, if the pH is anywhere near 7 (or below), the corrosion inhibitors are dead. What about Redline Water Wetter, Maxima Coolinol and Cool-Aid, Engine Ice, and Evans waterless? A water-only option without any corrosion inhibitors is just plain stupid. Even distilled water will cause corrosion in a short period of time. Hard water will cause corrosion damage very quickly. Even running straight water with a corrosion inhibitor additive (Redline Water Wetter, Maxima Cool-Aid) won't do much in the way of keeping your engine cooler. How cool the engine runs is determined by the heat rejection rate of the radiator as well as the coolant type. Pure water may have a higher capacity to carry heat, but the radiator can only get rid of that extra heat load at a certain rate. That rate is determined by the radiant area, the difference in temperature between the ambient air passing through the radiator and the coolant inside, and how fast the coolant is traveling through the radiator. Running straight water will require the water flow slower through radiator to allow for the extra BTU energy to be rejected, but slowing the rate through the radiator is going to mean the rate will be slower through the engine. And this will raise the temperature of the water even higher. A run away is then in effect. Most stock cooling systems have enough reserve cooling capacity that this isn't a big problem or even noticeable, but it lowers the threshold where boil-over occurs. Waterless coolants have the same heat rejection issue but for a different reason. Pure ethylene glycol doesn't have the heat capacity of water and since the rate of heat transfer is slower to the coolant, the engine temperature raises. And because the waterless coolant rejects less heat to the radiator, it doesn't cool as much. Operating temps 20+ above what most dirt bikes are designed for is going to cause issues with detonation, oil cook-off, seal life, clutch life, and who knows what else. There is one scary aspect of waterless coolant: it doesn't boil until 385 degrees F. You will pretty much destroy your engine if you manage to bring the temp up to 385 degrees. Having a water based cooling system on a dirt bike is like having a temperature gauge. When the coolant boils and clouds of steam start rolling out the overflow, its telling you to shut the bike down. No warning like that with Evans. Just a seized motor. Manufacturers do a pretty good job of sizing the cooling systems on modern dirt bikes so any playing around with straight water or waterless coolant is going to push things out of balance. 50/50 water/ethylene glycol is what they are designed for and that's what I use. One last note. I've stopped using all of the motorsports industry brand coolants. I think all of them are OK if you change the coolant several times a year, but I'm pretty sure they are all lacking to varying degrees on the amount and quality of corrosion inhibitors blended in them. I've been pretty disappointed on the lack of corrosion control with all of them. Oh, and I settled Zerex Asian Formula (Silicates free) coolant on my Yamaha. With a 21psi cap, not a hint of overheating on a 90 degree day crawling up slow, steep rocky trails.
  17. For many of our readers who don’t live in a temperate climate, spring means it’s time to get your treasured machine out of its hiding place and get ready for the riding season ahead. High performance off-road machinery hates to sit…and when it does, all kinds of bad things can happen. “If I have to choose between opportunity and preparation, I’d choose preparation, without it opportunity is useless.” -- Saji Ijiyemi So where should you start? We’ve reached out to our off-road experts, riders and racers who have spent years figuring out how to be best prepared when hitting the road (or dirt) after an extended period of downtime…and we’ve tried to put it all together here for you. Don’t forget that a great source of knowledge of all things dirt is available on ThumperTalk.com WHEN WINTER COMES When storing your prized machine, a good offense is always the best defense. There are a number of steps you can take prior to retiring your steed to hibernation, and these simple items can make all the difference when warmer weather shows up. WHEN GOOD FUEL GOES BAD Gasoline and stabilizers: There seem to be two schools of thought on how to best approach this. One is to drain the tank and carb of fuel and “put her up dry”…but we’ve seen issues where the last bit of fuel doesn’t evaporate completely and leaves that dreaded gummy residue that equals death to carburetors and fuel injection components, so we don’t recommend this approach. A better way to store fuel in your machine is to fill the tank with fresh fuel, adding fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer or Star Tron Fuel Treatment and run the machine until you are sure that the now stabilized fuel has run through the system, at least a few minutes. Then top up any remaining space in the tank with fresh fuel and stand the bike upright. When spring arrives, drain fuel, fill with fresh gas and go…although we’ve ridden out the tank of stabilized fuel with no issues more than once. Two strokes and four strokes: Are fuel stabilizers used for both two and four strokes? Yes. And if gasoline with ethanol is in your bike, use the blue-colored Marine Formula Sta-Bil. It's formulated to prevent phase separation. YOUR BATTERY: IS IT READY? Intelligent chargers: Batteries don’t seem to like being off their charging cycle and this is especially true of the old lead acid batteries. The new type lightweight Lithium Ion units also like to stay at peak capacity and as such using an intelligent trickle charger such as the Battery Tender or similar unit has always been the way to go when it comes to our rides because it keeps it in the best health and tells it when it’s time for replacement. First, we remove the batteries from the bikes and put them on a wood surface on our bench, we don’t leave batteries in the bikes in case of any leakage while charging from the lead acid units. We have multiple batteries here…and for that we like to use the Battery Tender Four Bank System and we’ve also heard good things about the cheaper PulseTech QuadLink which gives you the ability to charge four batteries at once with your 6-volt or 12-volt battery charger, regardless of the brand. It’s also simple to just alternate the leads every week between batteries. Even the singular units have a visual indicator as to how the battery health is so it’s easy to spot one that’s going bad during the charging cycles. Now let’s look at items you should inspect before the season starts. FLUIDS: DO YOU NEED CHANGE THEM? Engine oil, brake fluid, etc. Do they “go bad” or expire during the off-season? After some research we’ve come to some findings: Engine oil: As long as it’s fairly clean, engine oil should have no issues when sitting for six months. But dirty engine oil contains lots of contaminants, from blow by and leaky seals, gasoline contamination, etc. and these can work breaking down items like clutch plates and seals given enough time, so if it’s not clean and clear, replace it. Brake fluid: Brake fluid also degrades over time when in use, so change it. Moisture in your brake fluid enters through seals and the master cylinder cover…that’s why there’s that window there, so you don’t have to keep opening (and contaminating) the fluid inside. Remember that brake fluid attracts water and given the chance it will become unstable and lack the heat resistance required to effectively stop you in the shortest distance, as well as corroding everything it comes into contact with. There are a myriad of devices available to test brake fluid for contaminants, and we’ve seen everything from cheap ($8) test strips to LED testers ($20) and even bench mounted tester that go for up to $500. We’ve only used the cheap strips and we find them to be fairly effective when coupled with a keen eye. Radiator fluid: Radiator fluid does break down and it's anti-corrosive and cooling properties become wholly ineffective over time as well. Most brands have a schedule that the manufacturer uses to determine when to replace it. We follow this in our bikes but we also do a visual inspection to be sure that the coolant is worthy of usage. It’s pretty simple…does it look the same as when it was put in? It the radiator still full as when you topped it off last? Does it look like it came on a spaceship from Mars with the bright green hue? Dirty, contaminated radiator fluid can point to upcoming, more serious engine issues…if you notice any dark colors or residue in the coolant these could point to a failing head gasket or seal. Basically, if it doesn’t appear fresh and clean, change it and then keep an eye on it. WHEELS & TIRES: VISUAL INSPECTION IS NECESSARY! Spokes: Spokes play a vital role in your wheel setup but are many times overlooked during the maintenance of our machines. You should do a visual inspection of the spokes, looking for bent and/or broken spokes. Obviously broken spoke(s) require immediate replacement. Bent spokes are a judgment call, as long as they can be tightened correctly and without hassle. To make sure your spokes are at the correct torque to support the wheel structure, you must use a spoke wrench such as the ones made by Motion Pro or Fasst Co. and spokes must be tightened in a specific order and each tool comes with detailed instructions for this procedure, follow it religiously for best results. Rim locks: Off road bike’s rim locks can work their way loose during the riding season and once they do, they’ll flatten your tire quickly. And usually this will be at worst time, such as in the big race! Normally, you can tell how the rim lock is aligned and whether it’s tight by simply insuring that the stud for the rim lock appears straight and is exiting the rim, pointing directly at the wheel axle and the nut is on the stem. If it isn’t, it’s best to let all the air out of the tube and (very gently) move the rim lock and stud assembly back to the optimal position. The hardest part is repositioning the rim strip back over the rim lock, so good luck with that. Screw the valve stem nut all the way and fill the tube, and repeat two or three times to insure the tube is seated and tighten the rim lock so it's snug but not tight. Do not tighten the valve stem nut…just back it up against the stem cap and keep an eye on it to see if the tire/tube is slipping on the rim. Dry rot: If you have been storing your bike for an extended period of time, especially off the stand, it’s best to do a visual inspection of your tires. Were they old when you mounted them? Vintage bike and vintage tires? Better check the sidewall, especially where it meets the rim for any cracking or blistering. Either of these two conditions would necessitate replacement. BRAKES, BEARINGS AND DRIVETRAIN: EVERYTHING IN SPEC? Disc Brakes: These are fairly easy to visually inspect for pad wear and as pads are so cheap, if I see any significant wear before the season starts, I’ll replace them just so I’ve got that added bite when competing. You should also inspect the brake alignment pins for corrosion and replace as needed. Drum brakes: With drum brakes, the signs of wear can be deceiving, as you can’t actually see the brake shoes. Some bikes have a wear indicator that has a pointer on the hub which shows a “wear range” but we’ve never found these to be very accurate. Better to take the wheel off and take a look…it’s easy to see how worn they are and you can use calipers to determine shoe thickness. Wheel bearings: Wheel bearings wear out, and when they do it can be ugly, so just put your bike up on a stand and rotate the wheels by hand. Is there any side to side play? Doesn’t spin freely? Clunking noises? Then wheel bearings may be an issue. With the sealed types, replacement is your only option but with non sealed bearings you can try removing, cleaning and re-greasing them. Make sure you inspect them for any obvious pitting, cracking or uneven wear…but if they still look good, they may have just been dirty. Drivetrain: Your sprockets and chain take a lot of abuse when out riding because sand, dirt and water all conspire to shorten the life of a chain and sprocket set, no matter how tough. Drivetrain setups including sprockets and chain are inexpensive (about $100) and are easy and quick to replace. First off, take a look at your sprockets…how are the bolts, are they all tight and at the correct torque spec? Are the teeth all there and are they sharp and exhibit no hooking? How is the chain…is there a lot of play, is it getting to the limits of the chain adjustments, is it noisy or does it slap when landing from jumps? These are all signs of excessive chain and/or sprocket wear and a sprocket or chain failure can lead to a hospital visit – and if the chain gets wrapped up in the engine case, it can lead to a cracked case (as happened to this author on my KTM)…and this is big money to fix. So don’t do what I did…make sure to replace these worn driveline components before they fail and endanger you and possibly others around you. REEDS & VALVES: INSPECT, ADJUST OR REPLACE? Reeds: If you ride a two stroke, you should visually inspect your reed valves as they tend to crack/chip over time. This will make your machine hard to start and stay idling, so best to make sure they are good. These chips and cracks can be very small and sometimes hard to see so look carefully, especially in the corners. The fingers of the reed valve should snap shut with authority when lifted and released, if not they probably need replacing. Valves: If you ride a four stroke, you should take some time at least once a season to inspect the clearances on your intake and exhaust valves. Excessive play in valves can wreak havoc on a well-running engine, making it hard to start and idle as well as reducing power and because the valves open/close with such frequency, the valves and seats in the cylinder head wear out…causing the valves to loosen up into the head, and this adversely affects your engine. You can correct these tolerances by using shims to offset variances in the valve train. Most bikes are different and you must consult the owner’s manual for your specific bike’s valve checking procedure, tolerances involved, tools and parts required. This can be a long and involved (as well as costly) inspection/replacement procedure so it is often overlooked by casual enthusiasts. BREATHE EASY: EXHAUST INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE Exhaust canister and packing material: Exhausts on off-road bikes are fairly simple, whether two stroke or four and most maintenance of the exhaust is centered on the “muffler” or “silencer” portion of the unit. Inside most silencers is a disposable packing (baffle) material that helps re-route and quiet exhaust gases, and this material can be replaced. Packing material for exhausts is quite cheap, and not replacing this material can lead to issues such as bad idle, hard starting and excessive noise. To inspect your exhaust for baffle issues, it’s best to remove the rivets and replace when required, depending on how many hours the machine is operating. Signs of needing replacement include excessive noise and pieces of baffle material leaving (being blown out) the canister. You’ll have a good idea when it’s time, and keeping the noise down in our sport is a positive thing! CABLES: STRETCHED TO THE LIMIT? Control Cables: Cables are one of those items that are fairly simple and inexpensive to replace, but many riders don’t bother to address their condition until they fail. And when they fail you can really get stranded, so it’s best to visually inspect your clutch and brake cables prior to the season beginning and take corrective action where necessary. Most cables wear points are at the entry and exit/pivot points along its route, so first check where the cables are adjusted and whether they have free play as recommended in the owner’s manual. Now work the cables via your levers and check to see that the pull (and release) are smooth and consistent. Any undue play or added tension in the pull are cause for concern as throttle cables for example, can stick and cause a major catastrophe. Control cables are a high wear item and should be lubricated regularly using a cable lube device. Cables are relatively inexpensive and you should replace your cables when any visible wear/binding/bending/kinking is observed. UNDER PRESSURE: ENGINE COMPRESSION TESTING This is a maintenance item that when done regularly, can give you a good idea of how much and how fast your piston/rings and compression chamber components are wearing out. If your combustion chamber compression is not at least 100 PSI, your engine is in need of attention and saving it now before it grenades can save you lots of your hard earned money. Most engine builders are looking for a reading of 125 PSI to as high as 180 PSI as indication of a healthy compression. If the compression is reading low, it could be a sign of things like worn rings or valves/valve seats or even a bad head gasket! The testing is fairly easy, and you’ll need an engine compression tester and these range in cost from $25-$500 depending on complexity and brand. Make sure that the included adaptors contain the size your bike requires (same as spark plug size, usually 12, 14 or 18mm). Here is the basic drill: Disconnect the ignition Remove spark plug Screw in tester Open throttle Rotate kick start Take reading If you get a low reading, you’ll have more homework to do…is it leaky valves, or maybe bad rings? Using a leakdown tester can add more to the mix by telling you exactly how much loss you have and potentially the cause. THE FINAL WORD: In conclusion, preparing your bike by following the procedures above will significantly increase your chance of more seat time and less time fixing things. Items like the compression testing can indicate upcoming engine component failure quickly and inexpensively. Lower cost items like brake components and control cables are vital to get you home after a day on the trails and should be replaced whenever they require. A little homework up front can keep you from staying after class in moto-school.
  18. If you ride lots of mud, you know how much can accumulate on your bike. Not only does this create a lot of work to clean when you get home, it can add a lot of extra weight to your bike. Here are some tips on prepping your bike so that less mud sticks. * To keep the mud from sticking under your fenders, give them a light coating of Armor All, WD40 or non-flavored cooking spray. This must be done when the fenders are clean and dry. There are a number of products specifically for this purpose but who doesn't have Armor All, WD40 or cooking spray around the house? I personally use Maxima SC1 Silicone Spray because that's what I've been using for years to keep my skoot looking like new. * If you run a skid plate, consider installing Skid Plate Foam. It's porous enough to let water run through it, but keeps mud from accumulating wear you install it. If you buy bulk foam, you can trim pieces and stuff it wherever mud seems to build-up on your bike. * Re-purpose a pair of ladies nylon stockings (panty hose) to keep mud from packing into your radiators. Slip them over the top of the radiator and tie them off at the bottom. Some mud will stick, but far less than without the nylons. What mud that does stick will dry and is easily flaked off with a quick brush of your fingers. And, cleaner radiators are more efficient at cooling, so this technique is a win on a few levels. If you don't run the nylons, clean, dry and coat the OEM plastic radiator fins with the spray of your choice. * Lastly, with a clean bike, wipe the topside of your plastic work down with a Silicone Spray or a product like Plexus. These products seal the microscopic pores in plastic, making it harder for dirt to stick and what does is easier to remove. And, they might your bike look nice! So there you have it. Using these tips, your bike will look its best, clean-up will be easier and even better, picking up less mud weight when you ride uses less energy and will handle its best.
  19. Bryan Bosch

    Releasing mud when washing your bike

    I'm not too fond of washing my bike with a pressure washer, but getting mud off your bike without one can be a lot of work. However, my trick is hooking up my garden hose to my home hot water heater. The hot water releases the mud from my bike quickly without the high pressure that isn't kind to bearings & seals.
  20. SlickProducts

    Slick Products Slick Marine Cleaning Kit

    0 reviews

    Slick Marine Cleaning Kit contains the essentials to achieve a maximum cleaning experience on any watercaft. This package offers a simple process that will safely and effectively clean off all salt, dust and dirt, target heavy grease and grime, and leave the vehicle with a waterproof, high gloss coating helping to prevent corrosion. In addition, this package offers added tools to apply solution and assist in the cleaning process.
  21. SlickProducts

    Slick Products Slick Street Cleaning Kit

    0 reviews

    Slick Street Cleaning Kit contains the essentials to achieve a maximum cleaning experience on any street vehicles. This package offers a simple process that will safely and effectively clean off all salt, dust and dirt, target heavy grease and grime, and leave the vehicle with a waterproof, high gloss coating helping to prevent corrosion. In addition, this package offers added tools to apply the solution and assist in the cleaning process.
  22. SlickProducts

    Slick Products Slick Wash

    1 review

    Slick Wash 32oz. Super Concentrate mixes with water to make a total of 4 Gallons of ready-to-use cleaning solution. This specially formulated, biodegradable solution is designed to penetrate and remove dust, dirt, mud, and salt. Slick Wash can be applied directly to a variety of surfaces without damaging paint, plastic, metals, or bearings and easily rinses away without leaving a sticky residue.
  23. SlickProducts

    Slick Products Slick Shine

    1 review

    Slick Shine 13oz. Aerosol Spray is designed to renew, protect, and shine faded, cracked, or aged surfaces. Slick Shine can be sprayed directly on plastic, vinyl, polycarbonate, fiberglass and metals covering surfaces with a water resistant high gloss coating that helps prevent corrosion. Using Slick Shine can also help prevent dirt, mud, and grime from sticking to surfaces, leaving a long lasting, protective finish.
  24. 1 review

    Synthetic blend Designed for todays high performance recreational machines
×