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Found 291 results

  1. More than you wanted to know about Liquid Engine Cooling Liquid cooling is an often overlooked part of an engine's operation. If it's not overheating then everything's good. The problem is that, when trouble does develop, the answers can be elusive. I'll come right out front by saying that I work at Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. and stand behind the properties of our waterless coolant. I'll tell you about it at the end, but first I'm going to cover some things that you should know if you choose to use a water-based anti-freeze. If you're sick of overheating, you can just skip ahead. Physics Pressure: A higher pressure will raise the boiling point of a liquid. A lower pressure will lower the boiling point. Water runs down hill. For us, it's more important to recognize that vapor wants to go up. This is why cooling systems (almost) always flow out of the bottom of the radiator, down to the pump and into the bottom of the engine. Vent lines are placed so that vapor can escape (from the pump, head, or elsewhere) and go up into the radiator. This direction of coolant flow naturally carries vapor up and out of the engine. Overheating happens when the coolant temperature reaches its failure (boiling) point. Sometimes it is said that when coolant starts spitting out, it's your warning that things are getting too hot. It's not a warning of a failure; it is the failure. Vapor shielding: As the anti-freeze begins to boil inside the cooling jacket, it forms vapor. Soon the vapor increases from a few bubbles to being a layer along the metal surface. This layer prevents liquid from contacting the metal and the metal is effectively insulated; it is no longer “liquid cooled.” The metal temperature spikes and hot spot detonation, seizure, and other engine damage are the result. Head gasket failure is due to head warping which is the result of uneven temperatures across the head. System Layout There are from 6 to 9 basic components depending on the particular layout of the cooling system: radiator(s), cap, overflow tank, hoses, hose clamps, thermostat, cooling jacket (inside engine), pump, and fan. Dirt bikes will lack some of these parts and complex street bikes can have more. Avoid Boiling the Coolant The goal of the system is to cool the engine, but that statement is too simple. The goal is to keep the metal temperatures under control and this can only happen if the liquid is in contact with the metal and carries the heat away. It is often recognized that a greater amount of heat is removed through the action of boiling, but this is only true until the bubbles formed grow big and displace the liquid coolant. If the metal is in contact with vapor, not liquid, the metal temperature cannot be controlled. Boiling coolant is to be avoided. There are two sides to improving the efficiency of your cooling system. One is maintenance and the other the choice of components. Maintenance Keep the outside surfaces of the radiator clean. Spray water through the fins from the back to clean out mud and grass. I never use a pressure washer on my bikes. Some teams put a mesh across the front of the radiators in muddy conditions. If the fins get bent, you can spend some time to straighten them out. Every little bit helps improve efficiency. Check the hoses. Obviously you are looking for cracks or bulges so they can be replaced before a failure. Keep in mind that an older hose can leak through the threads. The hose may look fine, but the coolant can get through the inside layer of rubber and then follow the threads out. Leaks don't always drip to the ground; look for a crusty streak, sometimes at the pump. Change your anti-freeze every year. After time, the corrosion inhibiting additives fall out of solution and settle out of the coolant; this is the sludge that collects at low points in the system. When this happens, the anti-freeze will continue to cool the engine as it did before, but there is much less corrosion protection. If left like this for too long, the corrosion that forms will insulate the metal surfaces from the coolant and this WILL decrease the cooling efficiency. This is why they suggest using a vinegar rinse to clean the system out. Diagnosing an overheating engine Radiator cap: Does the gasket seal? Any rips in it or dirt under it?Is the small disc on the underside free to move? This disc is the return valve that lets coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank when the engine cools. If the cap doesn't pressurize the system because it doesn't seal, the boiling point of the coolant will be lowered and overheating is the result. A leak elsewhere in the system can also cause a loss of pressure; at operating temperature, you should feel the pressure if you squeeze a hose. Thermostat: If it is stuck open, it may be hard to warm the engine up on a cold day.If it is stuck closed, the engine will run hot or overheat. You can test it by putting it in water and seeing if/when it opens as you heat it up. Thermostats have different temperature ratings. If it's a “190 thermostat” it should be open at 190F. Racers often remove the thermostat entirely to increase the flow rate of the coolant. Do not remove a bypass type thermostat unless you constrict or block the bypass line. There is a myth out there that if you remove the thermostat, the coolant will flow too quickly to shed the heat through the radiator. The radiator can dissipate heat just fine; in fact, it becomes more efficient with a greater liquid/air temperature difference. The myth originates from a real effect which is based on pressure. The thermostat (or restrictor that may be installed in its place) raises the pressure on the coolant in the engine as the pump pushes against it. This higher pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant inside the engine. Pump: Obviously, if the pump doesn't pump, you'll overheat. These days pump impellers are likely to be plastic. We've seen manufacturing problems where the impellers separate from the shaft; you could look at this impeller and not see that it's broken, but it would come off in your hand. We've also seen the blades snap off due to cavitation. Cavitation happens when a coolant is close to its boiling point. The “draw” side of the pump naturally has a lower pressure, and this can cause the fluid to vaporize. As the blades smack against this mix of vapor and liquid, they can wear or break. The pump is not designed to pump vapor so this cavitation also slows the coolant flow which will cause the temperature to rise. If the additives in the anti-freeze have fallen out of solution or you've been using straight water without a pump lube, the pump seal can fail leading to a bearing failure. Engine oil that looks creamy is telling you that there's water in it. If it's reddish brown like peanut butter, it's rusty water. Jetting: A lean fuel/air ratio will cause an engine to run hotter. An aftermarket pipe without proper jetting/fuel injection tuning will flow more air making the engine run leaner. A clogged jet can do the same. Changing things like cams, spark advance, and compression ratio can make an engine run hotter. Ethanol in the fuel will burn leaner. Look for a possible air leak in the boot between the carburetor and head. Altitude: It's not just that the air is less dense at altitude, but the lowered ambient pressure also has an effect. The radiator cap will pressurize the system to, say, 13 psi *over the atmospheric pressure*. A lower atmospheric pressure will lower the internal system pressure. You or your friends: If you are riding slowly, there is less airflow to the radiator. If you get stuck or are waiting at a bottleneck, that problem is worse. Air Pocket: Air trapped in the system can interrupt coolant flow and cause overheating. Optimizing the System: Hoses: Silicone hoses are better quality in general and resist heat stress and age cracking. There are silicone hose kits available that eliminate the plastic Y connector. This connector has a smaller inside diameter than the hose, so it restricts the flow; get rid of it if you can. If you go to silicone hoses, spend a little more on the recommended hose clamps so that they don't cut into the silicone. Silicone hoses are more delicate in terms of impacts, so consider a guard in places where a rock may hit it. Radiators: There are a number of aftermarket radiator companies that make upgraded radiators. Generally they are bigger and/or deeper which adds fluid capacity and surface area to the system, both of which help lower coolant temperature. Whatever radiators you use, make sure they're clean inside and out. Radiator cap: A higher pressure rated cap will raise the boiling point of the coolant. Race teams sometimes take this to an extreme; I've seen auto racing teams that have an air valve on the cap so they can pressurize it with an air compressor. The FIA limited the allowed pressure in Formula One for safety reasons. I don't recommend raising the pressure more than just a few psi. Pump: There are some aftermarket pumps available. A better impeller will increase flow and an efficiently designed housing can reduce the flow restriction. Fan: There are fan kits available now for some dirt bikes; increasing air flow to the radiator will decrease the coolant temperature. Making sure the fan is operating correctly is important. There can be failures of the temperature sensor or fan switch. Some people like to install a manual switch so they can override the automatic operation. If there is a shroud around the fan or ducting that the manufacturer installed, make sure it remains as they intended. Anti-Freeze: Any coolant with water in it has the same basic properties because those properties are limited by water's characteristics. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. The boiling point is raised a little when it's mixed 50/50 with glycol, either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. The big increase in boiling point comes from pressurizing the system. Tap water is terrible stuff to use, but most of the anti-freeze for sale today is pre-mixed with clean water anyway. Many equipment manufacturers have guidelines on the anti-freeze to use such as “no phosphate or silicate based additives”. These additives can be gritty like sand and are bad for pump seals. Limitations of Water: Water is corrosive. Anti-freeze manufacturers use a number of different additive packages to fight this property, but they all settle out after time allowing the corrosion to occur. Some additives are bad for seals like silicates. Some additives, like the OAT type(organic acid technology) degrade silicone. Water conducts electricity. This electrolysis eats metal. You can buy “sacrificial” metal tablets to put in the system that will “absorb” the damage from electrolysis. Water's boiling point is too close to the operating temperature of the coolant. There is a very narrow safety margin and the anti-freeze will boil in specific locations before the system is observed to be overheating. The area around the exhaust valves is typically quite hot. When the anti-freeze boils here, a vapor layer forms that shields the metal surface from the liquid coolant. The metal temperature then spikes and detonation is the result. The engine will run poorly and lose power as the coolant temperature approaches its failure point. While the system pressure raises the boiling point, it also sets up a situation where a puncture will expel all the coolant. Hot anti-freeze will gush from an opened cap, but not because of the pressure that the cap regulates. When the cap is removed, the pressure drops which drops the boiling point in the system. It is the flash boiling that happens inside the engine that causes the gusher. Evans Waterless Coolant: Like I said at the top, I work at Evans, but I'm not just a paid promoter. I started using Evans waterless coolant while road racing in the 1990's when it was still legal for pavement racing. As I became more familiar with its properties, I put it in all my vehicles and started selling it at the track and online. Things grew to the point that my volume was getting noticed by the company. Years later, and here we are with a formula specifically designed for the powersports industry. I'd appreciate it if you'd let me tell you about the product that I believe should be in every performance machine out there. You wouldn't take the back off your watch and pour water in it; it's time to stop pouring water in your engine! The high boiling point of Evans means that the coolant temperature won't go above its failure point. It operates within the same temperature range as conventional anti-freeze and is able to stay in contact with metal surfaces, even at stressful points like around the exhaust valves. Pump cavitation is avoided, as is electrolysis. All of Evans' coolant formulas are non-corrosive and last the lifetime of the engine. If I'm rebuilding an engine, I will save the coolant and pour it back in the rebuilt engine. Evans Coolant doesn't freeze; we state that it will flow at -40F, but we have not found a freezing point. After lowering a sample to -60F without freezing, we decided to talk about its pour point like the oil industry does. Evans Coolant is a patented blend of chemicals, most of which are commonly found in conventional anti-freeze formulas, and additives with no water. It is not a gel and will not turn gooey if anti-freeze is added to it. If something were to happen on the trail and you are forced to add water or anti-freeze, it will simply perform like conventional anti-freeze, no worse. Information on the web about poor cold weather performance of Evans Coolant refers to our oldest formula. The current formulas are approved for all weather conditions and are mandated by Rotax for use in their 900 series aircraft engines. Evans Coolant has a high boiling point of 375F at atmospheric pressure. While it does not need pressure to raise its boiling point, we do not recommend modifying the system to hold zero pressure. It will expand 7% at operating temperature so you will notice some movement to the expansion tank, but it doesn't build pressure like water does. If you were to open the cap when hot, it shouldn't spurt out. A little might come out, like a tablespoon, but if more does, it is a sign that there is either water present or an air pocket in the system. The added safety margin of the high boiling point will save the engine when conditions become extreme. Through an unintentional error that cut air flow to the radiator, I saw the coolant temperature on my road race bike go to 297F. The bike was still running alright, so we changed the oil and fixed the cause of the problem. The engine ran fine for all the races that weekend and then all the races at the finals at Daytona. Evans Powersports Coolant is trusted by race teams around the world. I encourage you to go to our website www.evanscooling.com to learn more and see the interview with Jay Leno or stop by our Facebook page http://www.facebook....300949013264495 for a more personal interaction. When you hear about our Chinese business, you should know that we make the coolant in Pennsylvania and export it into China. Evans China has installed American made waterless coolant into more than 150,000 new passenger cars so far!
  2. I recently got sick of having to consult my owners manual about how much oil my bikes need, (those with multiple bikes know it gets confusing) and not all these bikes had the amount needed to fill to capacity during a change marked on them, so I used an electric engraver to engrave the proper CC quantity near all the fill caps on every bike. Now, as long as I use my Ratio-Rite, its a perfect fill every time.
  3. Karlgp

    Excellent Anti-sieze

    I've been using teflon plumbers paste on the chain tensioner bolts that are in the swingarm for several years now. Heat the bolt and swingarm up with a propane torch and apply liberally to the bolt before screwing it back into the swingarm.
  4. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION Proven to cool and quiet engines and gear boxes. Use in ALL air-cooled and water-cooled 4-stroke Engine, Primaries and Transmissions that call for SAE 20W-50 motor oil. KEY BENEFITS Lower oil temperatures Longer oil life Longer component life Less noise, fewer leaks All Lucas Motorcycle Oils meet JASO specifications Meets or exceeds: API SG / SF / CC / CD, JASO MA & JASO MA-2, ACEA A3
  5. Ask anyone who has struggled with a stuck fastener: the time to apply grease or anti-seize is BEFORE the fastener gets stuck. Grease and anti-seize both address the same problem - stuck fasteners - but each one has a different approach. Grease is a water-excluder as well as a lubricant. It's appropriate for rotating & sliding parts. However, it's NOT appropriate for threaded fasteners for 2 reasons: it dramatically decreases the torque required to reach a given tension, which will absolutely lead to stripped cases or broken bolts. Secondly, a fastener depends on internal friction to stay tightened, so greased bolts can back out more easily. On certain fasteners such as an axle which has a castle nut and cotter pin, this problem is resolved by the way it's designed, and it's OK to use grease. Anti-seize is a chemical barrier that prevents oxidation, and in some cases, such as stainless bolts in aluminum cases, prevents galvanic corrosion. The second primary function of anti-seize is that it prevents galling in threads. Both titanium and stainless are very sensitive to galling, and fasteners made of these materials should invariably get anti-seize. Here are wikis on these topics: http://en.wikipedia....vanic_corrosion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling On to the pix! I just scored a new-to-me bike, and have been going through some of the various parts that commonly have stuck-fastener problems. I decided to work with the brakes first, since they operate in terribly harsh environments, with the brake dust, dirt & grime, water, high temperatures, and strong chemicals in brake fluid, so they need the most protection. "As long as I'm there..." I decided to do the axles as well. Start by yanking off the brake caliper & wheel. I feel pretty good about doing this now because Suzuki is really stingy with the grease on the axle. This has been discussed on TT pretty well, and is proven with this shot. The hand-print is all the grease that came off the axle.... not much at all. Perhaps I'm dating myself here... but Nissin has been using this straight-head pin cover design for at least 20 years. It's not a perfect design because it can get stuck, or worse, capture water behind it and make the pad-keeper pin get stuck even on a very low-mileage caliper. Remove both the pin cover and pad-keeper pin. Here are all the front-end parts that I typically apply grease and anti-seize to: left-to right on the bottom row are the pad-keeper pin, the pin cap, the two caliper mounting bolts, and the four axle pinch bolts. Obviously, the big thing on top is the axle. While it may seem as fundamental as walking, applying grease does have a technique to it. Have you ever seen a recently-lubed bike with black streaks all over the hub & rim, attracting dirt? Is spraying grease on the brake rotor a good idea? Too much grease is pretty wrong. For both grease and anti-seize, I like to clean the fasteners with some contact-cleaner or carb cleaner just to get any of old lube off. Old lube may have dirt (i.e. abrasive) embedded in it. For the axle, I put a dime-sized dab of grease on and smear it around until every inch of the axle is coated, and there are no big globs. It'll take a minute or two. If it goes fast, you're probably using too much. Use a towel to remove excess grease. Anti-seize is interesting stuff. It will track EVERYWHERE if you don't carefully contain it. I always wear rubber gloves when I'm working, and put on new gloves when I get anti-seize on them. You can use contact cleaner or other solvent to clean up the inevitable mess. The upside is that it cleans easily, and doesn't seem to stain. Apply a thin streak of anti-seize on the threaded part of the fastener, and thoroughly smear it around the thread. Use a paper towel and wipe off any excess. Only the thinnest coating is necessary, hence the need to be thorough while spreading it. The coating in this image is on the heavy side. On the front wheel, apply a modest amount of grease to the seal where it contacts the wheel spacer. Also, the speedo drive has exposed rotating parts which will benefit from lubrication. Don't forget the inside of the spacer and speedo drive. Moving to the rear of the bike, remove the rear wheel & caliper. The red circled areas show the three parts that need love: the pad-keeper pin, and the sliding caliper pins. I forgot to snap a pic of one of the caliper slide pins, but basically, you slip back the dust boot, and slide the caliper apart to grease the pin. Don't forget to get the dust boot properly snapped into the groove. In this image, we see the pad-keeper pin on the top and the caliper slide pin on the bottom. The slide pin needs some explanation. Since it's both a sliding fit which needs grease, and a threaded fastener that needs anti-seize, apply each appropriately. I got them mixed a little, which probably won't hurt anything. Again, do the seals on both sides of the rear wheel. Don't use too much, just apply it to the seal lip, and don't forget the inside of the spacers. Last but not least, do the axle as before. Don't forget a light coat on the inside of the axle carriers. I missed snapping the picture of putting anti-seize on the chain-tensioner bolts, which are a complete PITA to get out if they get stuck! Don't ask how I know that. Hopefully, my painful experience will help someone avoid it. One other spot to hit with the anti-seize are the little tiny screws that attach the brake master cylinder reservoir cap. Put your bike back together and go for a ride!
  6. 7 reviews

    Fresh, clean scented silicone detailer restores the factory shine Excellent for use as a polish, undercoat protectant and light lubricant Repels water and dries completely
  7. 1 review

    Ultimate lubricant for 2-cycle racing engines The most biodegradable 2-cycle oil available New additive keeps power valves and rings even cleaner Premix only, not for injection systems
  8. 1 review

    It is concentrated, a light spray is all it takes! Revolutionary new chain lubrication Much higher lube retention results in greatly reduced chain and sprocket wear and increased free spinning Ideal for O-ring, X-ring, competition and standard chains For case order 12
  9. 0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  10. I thought this week it would be a good idea to share with you an example of what can happen when dirt gets passed an engine's air filter. This will be a short post, but a picture is worth a thousand words. In my next post I’ll go into detail on how to properly care for your air filter to help ensure that this never happens to you. The series of photos below shows a sad case where dirt has found its way into the engine and wreaked havoc. The photos are all from the KX250F I bought on the cheap with the sole intention of rebuilding the engine and documenting the process for my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. Honestly, I couldn’t have bought a better bike for the project, nearly everything on the bike was worn out or screwed up from the previous owner. Here is how the air filter and airbox looked prior to disassembly. Here is the back side of the air filter. The filter was completely dry. There was no grease on the sealing face of the filter or the airbox flange. In this particular case, dirt could have got into the engine through the filter or between the filter and sealing flange. The amount of dried mud in the airbox and on the bike also makes me suspicious that muddy water got into the engine instead of just dirt. I honestly can’t say for certain. The airbox itself was also extremely dirty. Once the engine was disassembled I carefully examined the piston assembly and cylinder bore. At first, I could not get any of the rings to move freely. Only after I had pounded a pick between the ring ends of the compression ring was I able to get the compression ring off. As I removed the compression ring, a load of sand came with it. This photo of the compression ring doesn’t do the situation justice. Some of the dirt was actually removed from the ring as I handled it. Here is a close up of the compression ring. Note all the grit! The oil rings didn’t fair any better, were just as stuck, and had a lot of dirt on them. Here you can see dirt inside the ring grooves and at the edges. Here is dirt I rubbed off the oil rings. Miraculously (and fortunately for me) whether the engine sucked in dirty air or water, it happened quickly and stuck the rings to the piston so they could no longer seal correctly, and the engine subsequently lost compression and power in a hurry. This speculation is based on the fact that the cylinder bore showed no signs of excessive wear or damage and it measured well within the service limits. This is an outcome I never though possible and is hard to believe. I hope you enjoyed this brief write up on the damage that can result from ingesting dirt, whether from abnormal circumstances such as dropping a running engine into a mud hole or simply neglecting to take care of the air filter when running the engine in dusty conditions. In my next post I’ll show you how to care for and install your filters so these problems don’t happen to you! Questions or comments are always welcome and I enjoy hearing from you all! -Paul https://www.diymotofix.com/ If you like my blog, click the "Follow this blog" button in the upper right. You must be registered to do this.
  11. 0 comments

    The thing rips, when it runs! Having major problems, cant get the thing working for the life of me, hardly starts at this point.
  12. 631bikelyfe

    2t Oil

    What is the best premix oil and gear oil to run in my ktm 2t
  13. I'm running out of my current premix (Penrite MC2ST semi synthetic) and have decided to try the yamalube 2r full synthetic oil. When I do switch over, do I need to drain my tank completely, or can I just add some new stuff in with a half full tank of old stuff? Thanks in advance
  14. I have never been a skilled mechanic, but kind of want to be. The only way to do this is through practice of course, but I find that a lot of the time I "practice", I get pretty frustrated. Things don't line up right, I miss a small detail and have to go back and do a boatload of work to correct it. I don't have all the right tools. I don't have a stand. The list goes on. I've done simple things like installing footpegs and a silencer, and more complex ones like installing my dual sport kit (which I messed up a bit ). I didn't mess up the kit too bad, but getting the brakelight switch on without getting air in the lines, and routing the rear blinkers and taillight wires through the plastics gave me some serious headaches. I also messed up the harness path to the rear end so I just said eff it and drilled some holes in my seat to make some extra clearance. I feel really bad about this now as the bike is only a year old. At the time though, I was like, "whatever man, I can just get a new seat some time". So I just drilled because I was too frustrated to do it right and re-route the wires...a really dumb thing to do in hindsight. Next up, the holes I drilled for the blinkers are asymmetric which really bothers me--especially since I didn't notice that there is actually a dedicated location for blinkers before I drilled . I got flex mount blinkers too, which aren't supposed to break off, but I broke one off. So I blew the fuse at the same time and now I have no working blinkers or horn, and two replacement blinkers and a fuse just sitting in a bag until I can decide whether or not I want to commit to getting it right this time. Now for the real reason for this post though. I just bought an upgraded stator so I can run a powerful headlight for night riding, but I don't know if I should install it myself. I would need a torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc., etc. and at this point it seems like it will just be cheaper (and obviously easier) to have my dealer do it (they quoted ~1 hr. of labor, so probably 4 for me to do it ). But of course in the long run, a torque wrench is an absolute necessity for doing any work right, and it would be sweet to know how to change flywheels or add weights to suit my riding style as it progresses. So who enjoys wrenching and did you always? It seems like one of those things you have to be good at to enjoy, but getting good just takes a lot of time and there is a lot of money on the line if you eff up. Should I make the commitment or maybe I'm just one of those dudes that can't do it. I'm okay with that. I'd rather pay a little now to have things done right, than a lot later when something I did wrong rears its ugly little head out and costs a lot more time and money to correct. I see it like golf. Right now, I am like the guy that drives the ball off into the bush and has to go looking for it. I get thorns in my shoes and spend way to much time looking for the ball. But when I do hit the fairway (i.e. do something right and efficient) I want to get out there more and play the difficult courses. The big question is whether or not I should invest in a set of clubs (i.e. tools and a stand), and hit the course, or just pay a bit more so I can enjoy riding on the weekend instead of wrenching and potentially putting the bike out of service.
  15. I used to buy chain lube, And I tried many different kinds and noticed it either flew off or was really sticky and attracted dirt and also flew off anyway. So for the past couple years I either don't use any chain lube or put on some used 10w40 after a wash just to keep from rusting. I've noticed my chains are lasting just as long if not longer, so is chain lube just a gimmick or am I comepletely wrong? I can see the stickey stuff being good for street bikes because they don't normaly experience dirt but for dirt bikes it would just be like sandpaper wearing down the chain
  16. Ok, so you want to go faster, isn't removing weight from a vehicle one way to accomplish this task?<<<this dude know's what he's doing! lol! Harley riders bob and chop their ride,<<<<<drool! So chime in if you have any weight shaving idears, and remember shaving is a good thing!
  17. Alright so quit measuring your dicks and sit down, this ones a long one... I only learned this stuff recently so I thought it would be good to expose. The modern day oil and gas industry is riddled with low quality manufacturers, corporate lies, consumer misconception, and old time rhetoric. Sharks in the industry understand that it is better to pour money into marketing their terribly inferior product than research and development. This marketing is at the expense of the consumer. These slimy suits bank on a lack of consumer knowledge, they understand that a vast majority of the public is more concerned with cost and will never be truly informed regarding this matter. This topic applies across the auto spectrum as well (how I learned) but let's stick to bikes. I'm starting this thread to help wade through the cloud of misinformation and hopefully learn more about this highly complex matter. A more informed consumer will only help improve this Wild West of a marketplace for everybody. My goal is to learn some factual information at the same time squash the marketing bs helping others get the most out of their rig. Eventually, this thread is bound to start a pissing contest of opinionated answers between brands. I'm looking to dissect different brands whether it's 2 or 4 stroke oil doesn't matter. I want to better understand what exactly their specific traits and formulas mean, and how they compare. So guys please, let's keep it factual. No one cares about your "opinion". Manufacturers recommend particular oils because those oils are specifically designed to meet the criteria of modern, high strung, close tolerance, engines. I personally choose to bite the bullet and buy exactly what the manufacturer recommends given the insane amount of variables that make up modern oils. Can brands other than what the manufacturer recommends perform as well or better? Yes some do, but most of them do not. I think it is very important to compare data sheets to what the manufacturer recommends to obtain an oil with the same rating specifications and characteristics. Otherwise you might as well throw a dart at the wall or go by "smell". The basics: First, to understand oils I think it's very important for everyone to first know the types of ratings organizations and how their standards differ. Every bottle of oil will have a rating from at least 1 if not all of the recognized "independent" organizations. Look at the back. These organizations all have different standards to meet their certifications. There are many misconceptions regarding these certifications and what is a true synthetic oil. The easiest way to tell is through a rating system (API, JASO, ISO ACEA etc.) The API has become the laughing stock of the industry, the ISO has become widely regarded as the BEST standard, while the JASO remains somewhere in the middle relatively unchanged since the 90s. The API is a corrupt organization mainly focused on promoting and marketing their client based products rather than establishing a credible rating system over the years. It is known that the API sided with Castrol in a lawsuit regarding changing the base stock of their synthetic POA formula to a lower group 3 class while still claiming it was "fully synthetic". This move completely changed the modern quality of oils. The API quietly lowered the required blend of synthetic to 1% (not a joke) for an oil to qualify as "fully synthetic" under their current system. They swept it under the rug real quick like. This means that even if a bottle says "fully synthetic" right on the front it is often times a group 3 oil, nothing close to a POA synthetic stock. The general public needs to know that API designations should be dismissed completely. Many low quality manufacturers skip the more costly and stringent JASO and ISO certifications to intentionally mislead their customers into believing they have a good oil. Castrol, Maxima, and many others do this. (Golden Spectro I'm looking at you). Tisk tisk. The main thing I want people to take from all this: *****Any API rated oil without an ISO and JASO certification should be dismissed***** Now Im not trying to get too hairy here but I want to take this further. Here's a 2 nerdy topics that I'm having a hard time understanding, maybe someone can simplify. I have heard there has been a big push away from phosphorous and zinc as a wear inhibitor replaced by moly. Why is this? Isnt the reduction of phosphorous bad for flat tappet motor cams and rockers? Are there particular brands that contain more phosphorous than most? Would too high of phosphorous in the blend be too corrosive? Are there trade offs involved with higher concentrations of Zinc and phosphorous? Why the big push away? Are oils with the highest concentration of these additives considered the best? Too much moly causes clutch slippage correct? Like that stuff is too slick to even lube properly. Now regarding pre mix. I'm also particularly interested in motorex vs bel Ray 2 stroke oil. Ktm and Husqvarna both have essentially the same motor with a different airbox. The 2 oils are very similar but comparing the flash point bel Ray is much higher than motorex. Why is this? What exactly are the trade offs associated with low/ high flash point temps? I would assume motors that run harder/hotter need a higher flash point temp for proper lubrication at the cost of carbonization. I am under the impression that high flash temps run "dirty". I have a basic understanding of what I'm looking at but I would like to know more about data sheets than making simple number comparisons. http://www.motorexusa.com/msds/171-204_US_CROSS_POWER_2T.pdf https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.belray.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fmsds_files%2Fbel-ray%2520h1-r%2520racing%2520100%2525%2520synthetic%2520ester%25202t%2520engine%2520oil%2520item%252099280%2520us_english.pdf Here are some good reads to get you going: http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-1 http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-2 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/
  18. Last time I rode my bike it was running rough and popping at low throttle. Next time I went to ride it it wouldn't start, seemed like it wasn't getting gas (it had spark). Numerous kicks and the plug was bone dry. So I got around to taking the carb apart yesterday and the float bowl is full of black bits. WTH! Where on earth did they come from. I found the source, the inside of my fuel line was disintegrating and was becoming little black bits in the carb. I took the carb apart, cleaned it thoroughly and it still won't start, there must be bits stuck in there that I didn't get out. I'm going to have to take it completely apart again and try somehow to get all that crap out, it must be stuck in the small orifices. I went down to the local NAPA store for a new piece of fuel line, the guy said they see it all the time, its the ethanol eating up rubber. And the feds want to INCREASE the amount of ethanol!
  19. Try it. I use to use this stuff on my 250x then switched to rotella on both the engine and transmission. Rotella sucked on transmission. Made my 250 shift like shit. Since I got my 450x i've been using the honda 10-40 for both sides. Last oil change i decided to use the honda hp transmission oil. Wow, what a difference. Easier shifts, easier to find neutral, and it just seems like it goes through the gears better/faster. Good stuff.
  20. Anybody wash and wax their trucks once a week? I do it to the new truck but it took me 2 hours to wax it.
  21. Which is the best kind of engine oil for a 2 stroke dirt bike? Synthetic or not? Brand? I have a 06 yz 125 and a 2011 yz 250. Also, manual says 10w30 for the 125, would it be ok to use 10w40 on it?
  22. Well I can't say this is my first time dealing with the cops as I was having fun on my dirtbike, but this time it was just not fair. I was riding in the ditches around my grandma's property and my neighbor who no one really likes called the cops saying, "I think there is a dirt biker that is trespassing on someone's property." The funny thing is, I have been riding there for over 2 years and ever since I got a 2 stroke everyone hates it, (with the exeption of me and my dad). Anyways got a super cool cop and he asked what kind of bike and such but he said I couldn't ride in the ditches anymore which I think is really stupid because my grandma owns the property where I was riding. My neighbor I know was just annoyed by the noise because he knew I rode their for a while. So I lost pretty much all my riding spots so I have to look for a new one . I will countiue to ride in the ditches until the cops come again because it's stupid and the nearest dirt bike track is 3 hours away. I will never stop riding! Keep riding everyone!
  23. Why would the Japanese OEM's not lubricate things like steering heads and swingarms? See attached new 2014 Honda CRF 250
  24. I found a nice little 1984 kx60 for sale and I want to buy it because I heard there really tough rugged and easy to access the parts I mainly want to get it because I want to use it to learn how to wheelie and take jumps without destroying my bigger bike but all I really want to know is how can I make make 2 stroke fuel and where do I get the supplies...
  25. Ok so for Christmas I'm buying the whole family dirt bikes... When I get them I'm going to change the oil in all bikes. Can anyone recommend a good dirt bike oil? Can I get a reliable oil at Walmart? It will be one yamaha 250 one yamaha 125 and a Chinese automatic 50cc for the 6 year old if make an cc makes any difference. Thanks!
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