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  1. Hello all, I recently bought a 2004 rm85, the guy had it built for his son who rode it around a camp ground mostly and couldnt really open it up, he usually ran 40:1 in it, however we put 32:1 in it after the first tank, the bike is low hours on a factory top end. However, today I was riding and went to shift from 1st to 2nd and it felt like it hit a false neutral, so I downshifted then tried again it did it again, so I tried again, this time it went from 1st to 5th with no issues, however once I went around a turn the bike bogged then shut off in the span of around 2 seconds, the clutch feels frozen and when in gear the rear wheel wont move even an inch anybody know what the issue could be? Thank you in advance for reading
  2. Recently got my dirtbike back after being stolen. What is the best clutch lever, throttle housing and grips on the market? Want a buttery smooth clutch.
  3. Please help I have a 2009 kx65 I replaced the top and bottom end and then replaced the entire clutch system except for the pressure plate (new basket, fiber and steel plates, springs, clutch cable and lever) first I bought everything for the clutch and let the plates soak until I bought the top and bottom end which was 8 months later, the plates soaked in rotella 15w 40 which was recommended by a friend of mine who has twoi sons who race competitively and are really good. I rebuilt the top and bottom put the new clutch in and now the bike starts and sounds great but when I put the bike in gear the back tire lurches forward about a half inch, you can tall it almost wants to take off but then just revs up! Even if I sit on the bike and release the clutch it doesnt stall the bike like it would normally do in any other bike. The clutch system is set up correctly per the clutch diagram, I do have movement on the plate going in and out when I take the springs out, the inner hub slins freely as should, I separated the plates just incase they were sticking.... I'm at a total loss
  4. Think of a clutch basket as the back-bone of your entire clutch system. Precision CNC machining combined with innovative world-class engineering allows Rekluse clutch baskets to safeguard your vital internal components, keeping you on the track or trail a lot longer. Read on as we dive into the function and construction of clutch baskets and dampers and learn more about how Rekluse billet baskets can protect your clutch system and engine. Like we mentioned, the clutch basket is the back-bone of your bike's entire clutch system, but clutch modulation is not its only responsibility. In fact, an arguably even larger responsibility the clutch basket carries on its shoulders is being one of the main transfer points of load experienced back and forth between the rear wheel and the engine's rotating assembly. Not every bike utilizes a dampened clutch basket - dampened here meaning there are rubber cushions between the clutch basket and the primary gear. Small but mighty, these dampers are tasked with dampening any load transferred from the rear wheel and through the drive system, protecting the engine's internal components from potentially damaging, jolting forces. To put this in perspective, think of hitting a metal object with a standard metal hammer vs. hitting that same object with a rubber mallet. The rubber mallet absorbs much more of the energy whereas the hammer transfers it to your hand and arm. Obstacles like whoops, square edges, braking bumps and even landing off a jump under acceleration are common riding situations that force load on the drive system through the rear wheel. These repetitive occurrences over time, as well as excess clutch heat, can break down the rubber dampers, putting internal engine components at greater risk of damage. This risk can be mitigated through normal clutch maintenance and equipping your system with new dampers, but the problem is that stock clutch baskets in dampened designs are not serviceable, meaning the primary gears are riveted onto the basket and removing the gear to replace dampers renders the basket unusable. On the right is an OEM basket still assembled with the primary gear. On the left is the same OEM basket with the rivets and gear removed. Even though there is now access to the dampers, having to drill out the rivets has rendered the basket unsafe to reuse. Rekluse billet clutch baskets for dampened systems are designed with allen screws that can be easily installed and removed, making rubber damper replacement not only possible, but fairly simple with common garage tools. Replacement dampers for Rekluse baskets are designed to provide at least three times the life over OEM and are made available to help riders keep to service intervals, but those service intervals can vary by make, model, and even year. Be sure to do a little research on what's recommended for your machine, and feel free to chat with the tech experts at Rekluse as well. Rekluse clutch baskets are serviceable, meaning just the dampers can be replaced through normal maintenance without having to replace the entire basket. So, we've discussed damper wear, but what about other common basket issues? Many will say basket notching is a highly common issue with basket wear that typically constitutes replacing the basket all together once it gets bad enough. However, basket notching can actually be attributed to worn our dampers as well. Once dampers are worn to the point where they lose their ability to sufficiently absorb force, undue forces make their way through the clutch system and the rest of the engine, part of which means the impact of clutch fiber fingers on basket tangs will be greater. To help combat this type of wear in between damper replacements, Rekluse has developed basket sleeves - replaceable, thin alloy sleeves that slide between basket tangs, protecting the basket itself and theoretically allowing the basket to last for the life of the motorcycle, especially when paired with Rekluse TorqDrive clutch products. Rekluse basket benefits don't end there: Made 100% in-house in the USA in our Idaho manufacturing facility Billet aluminum hard anodized construction Enhanced clutch modulation Extreme durability resists notching and extends clutch life Exclusive replaceable cushions protect your transmission even under the most extreme conditions Tightly controlled tolerances ensure smooth operation, less drag and reduced clutch noise Rekluse Clutch Baskets are machined from one piece of solid aluminum, giving them better precision and greater durability than OEM cast baskets. #MadeInTheUSA Because in-house research, testing, and development can only go so far (and we take it as far as possible), we lean on our partners in professional racing to provide further data and feedback that we translate back into our shelf parts. Just some of these teams are: Smartop / Bullfrog Spas / MotoConcepts Honda Star Racing Yamaha XPR Motorsports EBR Performance AmPro Yamaha BWR Racing Merge Racing Technologies Want to learn more or order now? Visit Rekluse.com and use the "Select your ride" feature to find the right basket for your motorcycle.
  5. Whether it's in the woods or on the motocross track, one of the critical components that have a significant effect on rideability and traction is your engine’s clutch. The clutch is responsible for transmitting power from the crankshaft to the final drive of your machine. Traditionally, powersports machines are offered with manual transmissions and use wet, dry, or slipper clutches. At Rekluse, we specialize in high-performance clutch solutions that are easily installable into engines traditionally utilizing wet clutches. Auto clutches have inherent advantages over the other clutch types mentioned. Before considering an auto clutch, it’s important to understand all the essential details of what an auto clutch is, how it works, and the numerous benefits that street and dirt riders can expect. Different auto clutch options are available depending on the type of riding and budget, so it’s important to understand which one is right for you. Auto clutches have inherent advantages, but it's important to understand all the critical details to know what's right for you. (RadiusCX cable actuated model configuration shown) What is an auto clutch? An auto clutch is a type of clutch that automatically engages and disengages the based on engine RPM, and ultimately, the power being transmitted to the final drive. The ability to engage and disengage the clutch via rider input through actuation of the clutch lever is retained; however, rider modulation of the clutch isn't necessary in many situations. An auto clutch allows easy starting and stopping without using the clutch lever, and virtually eliminates engine stalling. Unless you have mastered clutchless shifting, the clutch lever is still used when shifting gears. Star Racing Yamaha has utilized Rekluse auto (RadiusCX) and manual (Core Manual TorqDrive) clutches throughout the 2019 and 2020 MX season. Justin Barcia and the Monster Energy / Yamaha Factory Racing Team utilized the RadiusCX auto clutch for select rounds of the 2020 Lucas Oil Pro Motocross Championship. Rekluse auto clutches automatically engage and disengage the clutch based on engine RPM. The option for rider modulation of the clutch via the lever is retained, but unnecessary, except for during shifting. An auto clutch should not be confused with an automatic transmission. Shifting gears is still an essential aspect of riding an auto clutch-equipped machine. An auto clutch is also different than a slipper clutch. When aboard a slipper clutch equipped machine and the throttle is chopped, the clutch disengages. When riding an auto clutch-equipped machine and the throttle is chopped, power transmission to the final drive is maintained, effectively maintaining engine braking. A unique characteristic of Rekluse auto clutches is their ability to retain engine braking when the throttle is chopped. How does an auto clutch work and what is an EXP disk? Centrifugal force is the governing force that allows an auto clutch to work. Centrifugal force is the resulting force that acts on an object rotating around a centerline. The heavier the rotating object or, the faster the object is spinning, the more inertia it will have, and the more force it will exert. An auto clutch features a special clutch disk that is designed to utilize the principle of centrifugal force. The Rekluse clutch disk that gives an auto clutch it’s automatic properties is called an EXP disk. The EXP disk essentially acts as a friction disk that responds to engine speed. The Rekluse EXP disk is the key ingredient to Rekluse's auto clutch formula. It's a friction disk built to respond to the centrifugal force of the spinning engine. The EXP disk is comprised of wedges that are positioned circumferentially around the clutch disk. The wedges are tuned and designed to respond to increases and decreases in engine speed. As engine speed increases, centrifugal force increases, and the wedges in the EXP disk exert an outward force on the two halves of the EXP disk, causing them to expand and the clutch to engage. As engine speed decreases, centrifugal force decreases, and the force exerted by the wedges decreases in the EXP disk, resulting in contraction of the two halves, which causes the clutch to disengage. To ensure the clutch is disengaged at idle, the clutch is set up so that a small gap of about 0.030” exists between the clutch pack and pressure plate. Off idle, as the throttle is applied and engine RPM increases, the EXP disk expands outwards, overcomes the installed gap, and engages the clutch. Since the auto clutch automatically engages at engine speeds higher than idle, the functionality of the clutch lever and traditional clutch deactivation/actuation methods can be retained without any modification. Finally, because an auto clutch works exactly like a standard clutch above idle, features associated with traditional clutch operation such as engine braking are also retained. Depending on your application and the auto clutch package you have, Rekluse has proprietary designs for adjusting installed gap, which is a critical step in optimum auto clutch performance. Advantages of an auto clutch If you’re considering switching to an auto clutch, here’s a few of the advantages and how they’re possible: No Stalling - Since the auto clutch engages and disengages as a function of engine speed and at idle the clutch is set up to be disengaged, stalling is not possible. Tunable - Rekluse EXP disks are tunable. The EXP disk can be tuned to engage at various engine speeds, and how quickly or “hard” the clutch engages can also be manipulated. Dead-on power delivery - An auto clutch simulates perfect clutch modulation which results in better traction. Reduces physical and mental fatigue - Since the utilization of an auto clutch yields fewer situations where the rider needs to engage the clutch, physical fatigue is reduced. Mental fatigue is also reduced since riders no longer need to focus as much on clutch operation. Clutch lever is still operational - If circumstances arise where manual clutch operation is advantageous, this can easily be accomplished. Engine braking is unchanged - Because an auto clutch operates just like a standard clutch above idle speed engine braking is not affected or altered. (RadiusCX DDS for KTM / Husqvarna hydraulic actuated model configuration shown) Who benefits from using an auto clutch? Rekluse auto clutches are designed for numerous applications and offer riders inherent advantages in each of them. There are application-specific advantages that riders can benefit from as well: Motocross - Automatic modulation of the clutch allows riders to ride a taller gear through corners. - The rear brake can be applied fully without fear of stalling. - Ease of operation allows the rider to focus more on their line. Woods - Automatic modulation of the clutch allows for better traction in slippery conditions. - Navigation of technical terrain is easier. - Ease of operation allows the rider to focus on their line. "In the slicker, rockier, rooty-er stuff, I trust RadiusCX [auto clutch] more than my finger." -Ryan Sipes (Photo: Future7Media) Trail - Navigation of technical terrain is easier. - Automatic modulation of the clutch allows for better traction in slippery conditions. - Steep and technical hills can be navigated without worrying about feathering the clutch to keep the RPMs up and the bike running. Zach Bell and the Precision Concepts team races WORCS and other West Coast GPs aboard their RadiusCX equipped KX450s. Rekluse RadiusCX Auto Clutch for the Kawasaki KX450 Adventure Bikes The RadiusX auto clutch covers a wide range of Adventure Bike applications: Photo: Gnarly Routes Yamaha YXZ1000 The Rekluse EXP 3.0 auto clutch for the Yamaha YXZ1000 allows you to operate the manual transmission with ease, with smoother clutch engagement which comes in handy when maneuvering at low speeds in technical terrain. Photo Credit: UTV Action, Cain Smead Auto clutch durability Similar to OEM applications, auto clutch durability depends on the end user and how aggressively they operate their machine. That said, Rekluse auto clutches are designed to last at least as long as OEM clutch applications. Since the clutch is mechanically engaged at the same RPM every time, clutch wear is consistent which helps prolong clutch life. Auto clutch durability also depends on ensuring the clutch is within spec and adjusted correctly. Auto clutch riders need to perform a simple and quick check called “free play gain,” which is a comparative measurement taken at the clutch lever periodically. Why are auto clutches innovative? Rekluse auto clutches are innovative because there are no other clutch solutions on the market that offer significant rider advantages while at the same time retain conventional clutch functionality and ease of use. Innovation doesn’t stop at functionality, the number of installation options and the ease at which an auto clutch can be installed are also worthy attributes, not to mention the fact that no modifications are required to install any of Rekluse’s auto clutches. All Rekluse auto clutch systems are drop-in, no additional modifications are required. Auto clutch options To help you understand how each clutch option differs, the highlights of each clutch are identified below, and a comparison table is presented that also shows key differences. Whether you’re a top-level racer, avid adventure rider, or dedicated trail enthusiast, there is an auto clutch option for you. RadiusCX: $1,049 - $1,179 (Dirt Bike and ATV) - Premier, top of the line auto clutch. - Features all the latest technology offered: EXP, Core, and TorqDrive - Increased friction disk count transfers more power to the rear wheel while eliminating clutch fade. - Provides optimal lever feel. - Yields highest level of durability. - Increased oil circulation through the clutch. (RadiusCX cable actuated model configuration shown) RadiusX: $649 - $749 (Dirt Bike, ATV, ADV, Street) - Excellent mix of performance and cost – uses OEM hub and pressure plate. - Includes TorqDrive and EXP technologies Core EXP 3.0: $949 - $1,079 (Dirt Bike, ATV, YXZ1000) - Core EXP 3.0 uses OEM friction disks, meaning power transfer will be equivalent to stock engine performance. - Includes EXP and Core technologies. - Increased oil circulation through the clutch. Understanding how Rekluse auto clutches work is proof they are an advantageous option over various applications. View Rekluse clutch options for your machine here on the website, or use the dealer locater to find your closest Rekluse dealer. If you have any questions at all regarding which clutch is right for you, installation, or adjustment, Rekluse experts are happy to help and can be contacted at 208-426-0659 or by email at customerservice@rekluse.com. What the pros are saying: Rekluse and Star Racing Yamaha – Clutch Technology for Champions Dylan Ferrandis on Rekluse RadiusCX Auto Clutch Precision Concepts Kawasaki Team Manager Robby Bell on Rekluse Still not sure which clutch is right for you? Check out our complete guide here to help you decide!
  6. Is your clutch having problems engaging and disengaging? Do you feel inconsistency through the clutch lever when operating the clutch? A worn clutch basket could be the cause. In this article, we’ll look at diagnosing a worn clutch basket, review replacement options, and step through the process of replacing the clutch basket so that the next time you need to tackle the job, you’re well prepared. Time to replace your clutch basket? Read on for a step-by-step on getting your clutch working smoothly again! Diagnosing the Issue Any clutch issues that a machine may have are typically very apparent to the rider because there is a complementary feeling of loss of control of the machine. The machine won’t become outright unrideable; however, subtleties that quickly become annoying will arise when utilizing the clutch. Most notably, modulation of the clutch may become more difficult, and the clutch feel will be inconsistent. Before taking the machine apart, verifying possible simple issues such as clutch cable adjustment and that the engine or gearbox oil has been maintained regularly should be confirmed. To inspect and disassemble the clutch, the procedures outlined in the machine’s factory service manual should be followed. Once the clutch has been removed from the engine, inspecting its condition is straightforward. Double check that any issues you may be experiencing are in fact caused by a worn basket and not from a different culprit, like a clutch cable. Click here for tips on replacing a clutch cable. The basket consists of a series of “fingers,” or “tangs” which mate with the friction discs. The basket fingers drive the friction discs. The friction discs slide out when the clutch is engaged and back in when the clutch is disengaged. Due to this interaction, notching can occur on the edges of the basket fingers. Any notching that can be felt with a pick or a fingernail can be potentially problematic. In terms of clutch basket wear, the main grounds for replacement of the basket are worn and grooved basket fingers. Notching on basket tangs is typically part of normal wear and is the main reason to warrant basket replacement. Replacement Options The clutch basket is a great component to upgrade since it has surfaces such as the basket fingers that are inherently wear surfaces. Selecting a ProX basket, which is significantly stronger and more wear resistant than OE baskets, has a high return on investment in terms of reduced maintenance and improved performance. ProX clutch baskets are precision machined from forged 7075-T6 aluminum, which is one of the strongest alloys on the market. Wear resistance is ensured by utilizing a sophisticated hard anodizing process. A final layer of performance is added in the form of a Teflon coating which seals the basket surfaces and allows the friction discs to slide effortlessly over the clutch basket fingers while in operation. ProX clutch baskets are forged from aluminum, precision machined, and hard anodized and Teflon coated for smooth clutch actuation. The tensile strength of the material combined with the coatings make notching the basket tangs almost impossible. Find ProX clutch components for your bike or ATV here! Tools Required The clutch basket is an assembly of parts including the basket, starter gear, clutch driven gear, dampers, and backing plate. The starter gear is pressed into the clutch basket, and the driven gear, dampers, and backing plate are riveted or screwed in place. When it comes to tools, you’ll need the following, outside of your standard tools used to remove the clutch from the machine: Hydraulic press or vice - capable of exerting up to 8 tons of force. Center punch, drill and drill bits, or grinder, or mill - for removing the rivets Punch and hammer - for driving the rivets out of the assembly Torque wrench and Loctite - for securing the screws in the new basket Fixturing - for adequately supporting the basket while removing and installing the starter gear. The fixturing doesn’t have to be anything fancy, and examples are provided later in this article. There a number of tools required to do the job correctly. For example, having the ability to properly press the starter gear out and in is key to retaining proper function. The Process We’re going to jump into the process post clutch removal and focus on servicing the basket. ProX clutch baskets include new dampers and screws along with instructions for your specific application. The following instructions should be considered supplementary. Mark the backing plate and gear - Use a marker to mark the outside surfaces of the backing plate and gear. Doing so will ensure that these parts are installed in the correct direction when reassembled. Removing the rivets - It is preferable to drill the rivet heads off, however, grinding and milling the heads off are also acceptable options. When drilling, it is best to start by using a center punch to indent the center of the rivet so that the drill bit will not walk. Once center punched, start with a small drill bit and work up to a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the rivet itself. Only drill down far enough to remove the head from the rivet. Typically, a depth of 0.040 - 0.080” (1-2mm) below the surface is all that is required to drill out the rivet head. After the rivet head has been drilled out, use a punch and hammer to drive the rivet out of the assembly. The most recommended method to remove the rivets is to drill the heads off then use a punch to remove the rest of the rivet completely. Remove the driven gear - Pull the backplate off before removing the driven gear. Note the orientation of the dampers. Take the driven gear off, then remove the dampers. Make sure you note the orientation of the dampers before removing them all after removing the driven gear. Remove the starter gear - The starter gear utilizes an interference fit with the clutch basket, so it will have to be pressed out. The exact geometry of the starter gear will be model specific. Some starter gears will feature teeth that bite into the clutch basket. Depending on the starter gear geometry and geometry of the clutch basket, it is possible the clutch basket will be destroyed during the removal process. Starter gears will differ depending on the model. Make sure it's adequately supported to press out without damaging the gear. Adequately support the clutch basket around its base so that loads applied will transfer through the center of the basket. Standoffs may need to be utilized to support the basket properly. Select an appropriately sized spacer to place between the starter gear and press. Appropriately sized sockets can serve as suitable spacers. Carefully press the gear out of the hub. There's a good chance the old basket may break when pressing the starter gear out. This is fine, the focus is on not damaging the gear itself. Clean the parts - Remove any clinging material from the starter gear, clean the driven gear and backplate. Install the starter gear - Apply engine oil to the outside of the starter gear. Carefully position it in the center of the new clutch basket. Before pressing it in, be sure to confirm any specific press-in depth requirements outlined in the instructions. Ensure the clutch basket is adequately supported before pressing the gear in place. The press force required to install the gear will be model specific and highlighted in the installation instructions. Be sure to oil the starter gear and note any depth and force specifications for your specific application. On some models, a simple shrink fit is utilized to install the starter gear. When this process is specified, follow the heating instructions for the clutch basket. Once up to temperature, carefully drop in the starter gear. Install the driven gear and dampers - Place the driven gear on the clutch basket noting any orientation requirements previously identified. Install the new dampers in the correct orientation. Install your new dampers in the correct orientation and reinstall the primary gear. Install the backplate - Double check the orientation of the dampers and driven gear. Install the backplate onto the clutch basket, noting any orientation requirements. Torque the backplate screws - Consult the installation instructions for the proper torque specs, apply Loctite if the screws are not pre-Loctite, then tighten in a cross-pattern. Reinstall your back plate with new screws and thread locking compound and torque them to spec. At this point, the clutch basket is ready for service and can be reinstalled on the engine. Refer to your service manual for assembly instructions and specifications to reinstall your clutch and button up the engine. The process of replacing a clutch basket is straightforward and can be executed by anyone so long as the necessary steps are followed and tools are available. We hope this write-up simplifies the job and helps our fellow riders and racers get back out there performing better than before!
  7. Been having clutch issues with my 96 yz250 2 stroke for a few months now and I can't figure out a solution. A few months back my clutch cable snapped so I put a new one on. After doing this my clutch won't disengage. I start it in neutral, everything works fine, then as soon as I put it in gear it stalls out. I'm assuming I did something wrong during the installation of the new cable, but I cant seem to figure out what. I've replaced the clutch plates and it still does the same thing. The basket has minor grooves. I've tried adjusting the clutch cable. It has been sitting for a few months if that has anything to do with it. Any help is appreciated.
  8. 04 honda crf70 when I start it , it makes a loud clicking noise ( maby kickstart gear) then it grinds in every gear and wont move , I've pulled the side cover off , took the clutch apart . Everything looks just fine . Other than that the motor runs good just wont move and makes noise
  9. Recently picked up an ‘03 450 sxf and took it up to the trails without any issues. However recently I rejetted the carb and since then the bike stalls out when I pull the clutch in fully. I’ve adjusted the clutch cable and that didn’t seem to fix it and also reinstalled the original jet. The bike also feels like the engine is braking when no throttle is applied even in higher gears. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  10. I have a RM125 and it has had consistent clutch issues since I purchased it. It seemed like the cable was worn. You couldn't adjust it properly where the lever had a slight looseness and a slight two finger pull engaged the clutch. You had to pull the lever all the way to the bar. I replaced the clutch cable without much improvement. I just installed a new cable(in case the previous new cable was bad) and new plates. Still the same problem. I am about the tear into the engine and take the basket off looking for some type of damage. Maybe start replacing components if I can't find some sort of witness mark. Any suggestions before I spend more money would be very helpful.
  11. so I bought my daughter and 05' CRF 80, It started and ran fine a few times and now she has a hard time shifting into second. I wrode it a few times and trying to get into second gear you definitely don't hear the typical click over and any feel it flip I to 2nd and going up from first to second and it takes a few times of fidgeting with it to get it into gear, all the other gears seem to be fine. took it all apart everything seems to look fine but I really don't know what I'm looking at, with the clutch cover off I was able to run through all the gears but put back together with fluid in it still no go any suggestions??
  12. Hi, I stupidly assumed the clutch line takes mineral oil, and I flushed the system with it instead of DOT brake fluid. Went for a a couple of rides and now the clutch has no pressure and the master cylinder rubber inner cap is all deformed. It appears that the mineral oil ate up the seals. Anyone knows where to get just those seals? without needing to buy the entire rebuild kit? Any advice on rebuilding is also highly appreciated. Thanks
  13. DIRTrider199

    Hard shift

    I have a 2011 ttr110. I installed EBC stiffer clutch springs with new clutch pads. It was very noticeably harder to shift after sold the bike right after almost. Bought back and it is extremely hard to shift up now. What could this be. Due to the stiffer Springs Maybe?? It will shift fine if you Redline it and then shift. Shifts down no problem.
  14. The clutch system is the most important connection between your hand and the rear wheel, as far as controlling the machine. When working properly, most riders don’t give their clutch a second thought. However, the importance of the clutch quickly snaps into focus when there’s a problem with the system. A clutch is an engineering marvel. Imagine you are on the starting line waiting for the gate to drop. You start your bike and pull in the clutch. What follows is a chain reaction of events. A series of moving parts transfer that load down to the clutch, where the pressure plate is pushed away from the clutch pack, basket and inner hub. At that point, there is a disconnection between the transmission and crankshaft. Clutch functionality involves a series of moving parts that are crucial to engine operation. Periodic maintenance, inspection, and replacement will keep your machine running as it should. Shown here is an exploded view from Yamaha of a YZ250 clutch. With the clutch disengaged, you click the shifter into gear. The gate drops, and you quickly release the clutch lever. The clutch springs force the pressure plate to squeeze the friction and drive plates together, causing the clutch basket and inner hub to synchronize. At that point, the energy generated inside the combustion chamber is carried through the transmission and to the countershaft sprocket, which then transfers the load to the rear wheel. Without an operating clutch, you would be sitting on the starting line as the pack raced away. Suffice it to say that your clutch is a vital piece of the overall puzzle. And, like most parts on your bike, it won’t last forever. Fortunately, there are three general indicators that your clutch is not working properly. You don’t need to be deft or dexterous to determine whether your drive system is giving up the ghost. The only necessities are a handful of tools, basic mechanical knowledge, and a good sense of smell. In this article, we delve into the symptoms, causes and solutions for the most common clutch problems so you can get back to riding. Sign #1: Slipping Away Symptoms: A slipping clutch is quickly recognizable when you’re twisting the throttle with reckless abandon while the machine is in gear, yet the rear wheel isn’t rotating in unison with the engine’s rpm. If you’re wound out in third gear and only accelerating at a snail’s pace, then something is wrong. You may also be able to notice a vague feel at the clutch lever. Either of these symptoms suggest that the internal clutch components need to be inspected for wear. Causes: When a clutch is performing optimally, the drive plates and friction plates are pushed together during clutch engagement (i.e. when the clutch lever is let out). The connection causes the rotation of the clutch basket and the inner hub to synchronize and work as one unit. However, as the plates begin to wear out, the clutch plates will slip against each other instead of grabbing. This prevents the transfer of energy from the engine to the transmission. Unfortunately, clutch slipping is inevitable, even if you aren’t a clutch abuser. Clutch plates wear out over time as a result of rubbing when the clutch is engaged. When experiencing clutch slipping, the likely culprit is worn clutch plates. It's time to disassemble and inspect your steel and fiber plates for wear. It is also possible that the clutch springs have lost their tension. When this happens, the springs aren’t strong enough to effectively pull the pressure plate against the clutch pack. Just as with clutch plates, clutch springs do not last forever. Worn clutch springs can also contribute to a slipping clutch. Read on for an explanation on inspecting your clutch springs. Solutions: When you experience clutch slippage, you’ll need to inspect the drive and steel clutch plates, as well as the clutch springs. To quote Dave Sulecki, Wiseco Powersports Engineer, “It’s very easy to access the clutch on all the new bikes. You can literally lay the bike over on its side, pop off the clutch cover, and start inspecting the components.” Using a vernier caliper or micrometer, measure the thickness of the steel (or aluminum) drive plates, and the fiber plates. Consult your owner’s manual to find the recommended specs. Be sure to also check the free length of the clutch springs. It’s a good idea to replace the drive and fiber plates, as well as the clutch springs. The most accurate way to know if your steels and fibers are worn is to measure them and compare the thickness to the recommended spec range in your owner's manual. Similarly, clutch spring free length can be measured to determine if they are outside of spec and need to be replaced. Replacement clutch components—both in individual components and clutch pack kits—are readily available through aftermarket companies like Wiseco. Replacing your fiber and drive plates at the same time is common practice, and when springs are required as well, all these components are available in kits with fibers, plates, and springs in one box. Each kit is built to OEM specifications and far less expensive, and Wiseco clutch springs feature a stiffer rating for a more positive clutch engagement. Replacement clutch components from Wiseco are available in individual packs of steels, fibers, and springs, as well as in clutch pack kits that include all three. Find Wiseco clutch components for your bike or ATV here. Sign #2: Creeping & Bad Smell Symptoms: The machine is emitting a foul burning smell that could strip paint off a wall. The stench might be so pungent that it’s evident after pulling into the pits. Generally, though, the smell is noticeable after removing the clutch cover. You may also notice your bike creeping forward with the clutch pulled in and the transmission in gear, no matter how much you adjust the clutch cable. Causes: Do the sniff test. Pull the clutch cover off. If you smell burnt clutch material, chances are your clutch will need new components. The burnt smell is the result of the clutch heating up. “The parts that burn first are generally the friction plates. It’s a real obvious odor. You’ll know it when you smell it. Visually, you’ll see the heat marks in the drive plates. The friction plates can also become black in color. The best thing to do is check the plates dimensionally against the specifications in your owner’s manual. Make sure you’re within tolerance on width and flatness,” states Sulecki. Burnt friction plates will typically become black in color and burnt drive plates commonly show dark colored wear marks. Solutions: For starters, you’re going to need to replace the oil. Be sure to pay close attention to the recommended service intervals in your owner’s manual. Doing so can extend the life of your clutch. Sulecki adds, “Fresh oil will help keep things lubricated and running cool. Oil does break down from heat and friction over time. In a lot of engines, the clutch shares oil with the transmission and valve train. Oil gets a lot of opportunity to break down quickly. Keep the oil fresh.” However, the damage of a cooked clutch cannot be undone. Clutch plates can warp over time from the heat. Warped plates cause the clutch to disengage unevenly and create all sorts of headaches. You will need to invest in new friction and drive plates, at least. However, heat could also damage the clutch springs, effecting spring tension. Be sure to inspect all your clutch components. If you find your clutch components have been subjected to excessive heat, it's always a good idea to at least replace the drive plates, fibers, and springs (when applicable). Sign #3: Feeling A Drag Symptoms: The clutch lever feels lumpy during clutch engagement/disengagement. Sometimes the lever can feel jerky. These are telltale signs that the clutch basket and/or inner hub is damaged and needs inspection. Causes: If your machine has the OEM/stock clutch basket, it was likely made using a diecast aluminum material. While fairly lightweight, durability is not stellar. “When you cast aluminum, you take molten aluminum and pour it into a mold. Once it has solidified, it gets processed from there into a finished part. When the material is molded it is generally not very dense. You get a lot of voids, porosity, inclusions, and imperfections in the material. The constituents inside the material aren’t bonded tightly against each other,” states Sulecki. The most common wear on cast clutch baskets is notching on the edge of the tangs where the clutch plates engage. The inner hub can be inspected for similar wear. If you see notching like this, it's time for a replacement. Solutions: There are a variety of aftermarket clutch basket options that use different manufacturing processes. Billet is a common alternative to casting, but even that has downfalls. Sulecki explains, “With billet, you’ll start with a cast piece of aluminum. It will generally get compressed a little bit in a forge press or some sort of pressure casting. That’s to condense the material a little tighter. Then the part is machined from the solid piece of metal. It has slightly better properties than a cast part, but not as much as a forged part.” Forging is a very intricate and involved process. It begins with a cast and drawn bar of aluminum material, which is then smashed until all of the molecules are bonded to each other. This makes the material much denser and creates what engineers refer to as feature aligned grain flow. Basically all of the grains in the material are forced to flow up through the features–particularly the tangs on the clutch basket and stanchions on the inner hub–for greater strength. All of the material properties improve–from tensile to fatigue to ultimate strength. Ductility is also improved, meaning the material can bend before it breaks. Cast and billet constructed clutch baskets are susceptible to wear. This is why Wiseco forges their clutch baskets in house before machining them, achieving greater tensile strength and wear resistance. Sulecki adds, “The denser material is very resistant to impact and fatigue, which are two critical components of a clutch basket. Impact is caused by the clutch plates as they drive against the tangs on the clutch basket. Clutch plates will actually start to create indentations on a stock cast part, and dimples on a billet basket. In turn, the plates can’t slide smoothly across the width of the tab as you pull in the clutch lever to disengage the clutch. A forged clutch basket’s resistance to impact means that it will not develop notches in the tangs.” Suffice it to say that forging is the superior material for clutch basket durability and lasting performance. Check out all the technical details on Wiseco clutch baskets here. The forged material creates much greater resistance to impact from the clutch plates during operation, providing a seemingly lifetime solution to tang notching. To cap it off, Wiseco hard coat anodizes and coats their forged clutch baskets with Teflon. Hard coat anodizing aids in wear and abrasion resistance, as well as improves lubricity and corrosion resistance. Teflon coating is the last process. It helps fulfill the wear resistance and lubricity that Wiseco requires for their clutch baskets. Hard coat anodizing and teflon coating finish off Wiseco clutch baskets for ultimate wear resistance and smooth operation. Find a Wiseco clutch basket for your machine here. Lifetime Guarantee It’s interesting to note that Wiseco has been manufacturing forged clutch baskets, pressure plates and inner hubs for years, but this all-too-important detail has flown under the radar. “Our forged clutch basket is the best product we make that nobody knows about,” says Sulecki. The performance-driven powersports magnate is so resolute in the durability of their forged clutch baskets that they offer a lifetime guarantee against notching and breakage. What does that mean? You’ll buy it once and never have to worry about it again. Related Reading: How to Replace the Clutch Basket in your Motorcycle
  15. So I smoked my Clutch plates the other day. I think they were already slipping a bit, but I had to do a hard Enduro Graham Jarvis loose rocky hill climb. I went down a path that I had no intentions of going back up. But my choice was either cross a creek that was over knee deep and about 30 yards wide with big rocks all along the bottom, or go back up the washed out side by side rutted trail. Any ways the next time I rode, I noticed the bike (03 CR250R) would hit the powerband really easy. I have to ride about a 1/4 mile on hard top to get to the woods. I put it in third, cracked the throttle wide open and dragged(drug?) the back brake. The engine continued to rev out even tho I was slowing down. I bought a hinson clutch plate and spring kit. I soaked the disks in oil over night and installed them. The operation of the clutch is good( the front wheel wants to come off the ground very easily) and I dragged (drug?) Back brake and the rpms went down. Now to the point: On that quarter mile stretch I usually open the bike up to clear it out and drift the rest of the way home. I can usually pull the clutch in and put it in neutral while drifting and the engine running. But now I can hear the it engine braking while the clutch is pulled in. I adjusted my perch to where there's very little play in the line and adjusted the lever out further (its an ASV)so it you can adjust it to have a longer pull, but its still wanting to turn the engine over. I also had a ton of slop in the cable that I had to adjust out. Is this because the clutch plates are brand new? There was a little bit of wiggle to the outer basket that I noticed. There were very slight grooves that I filed down on the basket, so I don't think it's hanging up on them. I can stop (with the clutch pulled in) and the bike will idle (you can definitely hear the rpms drop tho). I'm ready to order the needle bearing and collar if that's what's causing it. Or hopefully it's just new and the fluid dynamics between the plates is what's causing it.
  16. My 2001 rm125 has a terrible clutch feel. Compared to my friends bikes (both 125s), the clutch pull is heavier and no where near as smooth (slightly notchy throughout entire pull it feels like). Are these crappy breakaway levers the cause of this, or is it that my basket is notched a tad bit, or is it something else? Cable was replaced with a new one and has similar feeling to before but a little better.
  17. So I just got a recluse put into my sons kx65, just curious if anyone has had one and ever shifted their bike with a recluse but not used the clutch lever. I know it's an auto clutch not auto transmission but if you let off the throttle and shift then hit the throttle is there any serious damage to my transmission to worry about? Does it make it any more or less of a chance of destruction to the trans by having the autocutch?
  18. 2007 drz400s 8,000 miles on it. My clutch worked great under normal conditions but I've noticed if I'm doing low speed maneuvers for longer than 10-15 min and the bike gets a little hot my bike starts stalling easy and I have to give it more throttle before the friction zone. I have aftermarket clutch plates in I forget what brand they were but nothing special. Any ideas? Need any more details just let me know
  19. I found an old ASV clutch lever in my dad's old motocross gear. I assume it is for a 05-10 KX250F. It was still in the box and looked brand new. I have a 15 YZ250FX and was wondering if the lever could fit on my bike. The ASV clutch lever has a hot start lever on it, my bike does not. If I can't fit the lever on my bike it will give it to one of my friends. One has an 07 YZ250f and the other has a 12 KX250f. If I can fit the lever on my bike could i do anything with the hot start lever or will it just have to hang there?
  20. Hey guys, so im replacing the clutch in my aunts 2005 cr85r (she had one back in the 90s, nostalgia for her!) and im putting a tusk clutch in and removing the old burnt one, but with it all lined up theres a gap at the end of the clutch baskey with the 17mm washer and then without the washer everything lines up perfectly no gap. Ive looked in the service manual and have everything done correctly! Im frustrated to say the least, here is a few pictures of my problem! ( one pictures is without the washer and one with) The one with the decent size gap is with the washer!
  21. I have a 2001 KTM 520 EXC and having clutch problems. The clutch has pressure and works perfectly fine when the bike isn't running, but as soon as I kick it over the clutch losses pressure. While the bike is running I can pump the clutch up, but bleeds off again after a few seconds. I have an oberon aftermarket slave cylinder, brand new. and I have rebuilt the master cylinder. There aren't any leaks anywhere. I've bled the clutch normally, and I've back bled it, but no air comes out either way. One thing I noticed was that if I have the reservoir cap off, and I play with the lever little bubbles will come out, but like I said when I bleed it, there isn't any air at all. And it doesn't seem to be a problem because (when the bike is off), the lever dosn't seem spongy and it holds pressure. The problem I'm having is that ass soon as the bike is running, then the clutch doesn't work, so I don't see the master being the problem, and the level doesn't go down, and there don't seem to be leaks anywhere.
  22. Hey there, new to the forums and I can't seem to find anything to help me with this issue. I have two 2006 WR250F's and they both started acting up and won't roll when I pull in the clutch. They will a bit once it gets warmed up, and I was thinking maybe a clutch rebuild? Sticky plates? They used to I am sure, unless I'm just mental and am thinking of my Honda CRF250X? Any tips or fixes??
  23. Are there any down sides to a rekluse z start pro clutch ? Reliability? Maintenance? Performance? etc...
  24. Anyone install a RadiusX in a 2004 WR450?
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