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Found 53 results

  1. Joseph Hutson

    Clutch 2005 CR85R clutch issue

    Hey guys, so im replacing the clutch in my aunts 2005 cr85r (she had one back in the 90s, nostalgia for her!) and im putting a tusk clutch in and removing the old burnt one, but with it all lined up theres a gap at the end of the clutch baskey with the 17mm washer and then without the washer everything lines up perfectly no gap. Ive looked in the service manual and have everything done correctly! Im frustrated to say the least, here is a few pictures of my problem! ( one pictures is without the washer and one with) The one with the decent size gap is with the washer!
  2. Speed gonz

    Clutch adjustment issues?

    Hey I’ve been having the issue where when I have the clutch pulled and in gear when I kick start the bike it acts like it’s in gear even tho I have the clutch pulled so I usually resort to starting it in neutral. Also when coming in to a stop 1st gear it won’t want to come to a stop it will want to roll like its idling in gear. I adjusted it with success and took it for a test drive and came back with the same issue. Did some more adjusting got it right but I don’t want to have to do this every time. just wondering what I could do to make this right?. Thanks.
  3. yz_ripper

    99 RM250 Stuck in Neutral

    Hi everyone! I'm the original owner, it's been a good 20 years just about and this bike has been flawless, but alas, i'm at a loss Doing a routine oil change, i start the bike up, ride it around 1st gear a bit, make sure the engine is warm, park it in neutral, shut her down. I change the oil, start her up and she wont click into 1st or 2nd. No matter what, rocking, pulling up hard, bike on/off, its definitely stuck in neutral, the shift lever moves fine, but no "clicking". So, I popped the clutch cover, things look fine, but definitely noticed some deep notching on the basket (replacing obviously). I get the basket off, the gearing seems fine, things move as i think they should, but now while pulling up on the shifter, i hear "clicks" like it's going into gear. The problem is i dont know enough about what i should be looking at and trying? So even though it clicks, and i move it up say into what i think is 4th gear... if i spin the rear tire, it still spins freely like it's in neutral, is that supposed to be the case or should it be impossible to spin the rear tire? Secondly, when starring at the case, i have 2 gears to the left, the main shaft in the middle, below that, the shifting mechanisms, and to the right i believe the pump gear. Again, it appears things are moving ok, but i dont know what i should be testing or looking for that's not normal. Hope i was detailed enough, i can send some photos if helpful. I called the dealership i bought it from, they asked me if things looked align? Thanks, Artie
  4. Tgerrish88

    2005 yfz 450 clutch help

    Went riding Saturday and about 60 miles into our annual snirt run after an entire day of the wheeler running flawlessly my clutch lever got alot of play in the last half mile of day then as I came to a stop I noticed the clutch wouldnt disengage. Changed oil the night before, clutch never slipped even a little bit, however the adjustment on the perch and the cable are maxed out from previous owner. It starts in neutral but when I pull the lever in and put it in gear it stalls out. If I start it in gear it jumps forward. Anyone ever have a problem like this? I pretty much know nothing about clutches so any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. tal samiya

    2013 crf250x clutch cover

    Does the crf250x share engines with any other hondela bike? I am looking for a clutch cover but the only ones I can find are recluse or Hudson. I would like to find one off a junk bike but not sure which other bike engines I can look at. A list would help a lot. Thanks
  6. roleyrev

    Clutchless Shifting

    Hi all, I've just worked out that the ECU that I have used on my bike allows for a clutchless shift input (yes my DRZ). One assumes this means a switch or stain gauge connected to the gear shifter to allow the ECU to cut spark and/or fuel at the precise moment that a gear change is taking place. Does anybody have any experience with this type of shifting on a motorbike and is it worth the pursuit of installation?
  7. ThatE30GUY

    YZ85 Clutch Spring Torque

    Hey guys, I bought this YZ85 and came to realise the clutch wasnt working, so I drained the oil (Jet black) and pulled the plates out and cleaned them. I assumed finding a torque wrench would be easier than it has been. Does anyone know how to torque the clutch springs to spec without a wrench? Any insight helps.
  8. Rekluse auto clutches are high-performance clutches that offer riders many benefits ranging from improved control to increased power transmission; however, like any clutch, it is imperative that they are adequately maintained to ensure long clutch life. Rekluse auto clutches are not overly complicated devices, but they do differ from regular clutches, which means they have different maintenance requirements. In this article, we’ll outline auto clutch maintenance inspections and procedures so next time you inspect your clutch, you’ll be confident and ready to tackle the job. For starters, it’s important to note the key difference between a Rekluse auto clutch and a regular clutch. While Rekluse clutches have many performance enhancing benefits, the main difference between an auto clutch and a regular clutch is the incorporation of Rekluse’s EXP disk. In summary, the EXP disk is the mechanism that allows the clutch to engage and disengage automatically as a function of engine RPM. The EXP disk is the key component within a Rekluse auto clutch and is a crucial point for inspections. Don't have an auto clutch for your bike yet? Find one here! The EXP disk is the key component to Rekluse auto clutches and will be part of auto clutch maintenance. Read on for all the key maintenance details. Click here for our complete guide on everything you need to know about the auto clutch! Maintenance items within this article are broken into two categories: regular maintenance, and periodic maintenance. Regular maintenance are the maintenance items that are essential to perform frequently and ensure you get the most out of your clutch. Periodic maintenance are the maintenance items that are important, but occur less frequently. Periodic maintenance tasks require partial disassembly, whereas most regular maintenance items are performed before operating the machine. We'll cover regular maintenance and periodic maintenance, which may require different levels of disassembly. Regular Maintenance Checking Free Play Gain The most important functional check that can be performed to ensure a Rekluse auto clutch performs reliably throughout its life is to check its free play gain. This check should be performed every time before the machine is ridden. Free play gain that is set incorrectly can result in degraded clutch performance and life. Too little free play gain can result in clutch slip and too much free play gain can result in clutch drag. Checking free play gain is a verification method to assess the installed gap. The “installed gap” is a term used to describe the amount of free space between the clutch pack and pressure plate. The free space is critical because it is what allows the clutch to spin freely until the engagement RPM is reached and the EXP disk expands to engage the clutch fully. Free play gain can be checked using two methods, “the rubber band method” and “the hand method.” Comprehensive instructions on how to check and adjust free play gain can be found in the videos below and in the installation manual. A complete collection of Rekluse support videos can be found HERE. Checking free play gain is a standard practice with Rekluse auto clutches and is a key to ensuring long life and proper performance. It can be done with the supplied rubber band at first to build an understanding, then done by hand once the user feels comfortable. Rubber band and hand methods In both procedures, the bike is warmed up, running, and in neutral. The next step is to take play out of the clutch actuation system by squeezing the clutch lever, whether cable or hydraulic so that the pressure plate springs are on the verge of being compressed. The “hand method,” is done by squeezing the lever and feeling for resistance from the pressure plate, and the “rubber band method” is done by wrapping the supplied rubber band around the handlebar and securing it to the clutch lever. The picture below shows the correct way to secure the rubber band. Once the slack is taken out of the clutch system, quickly rev the engine up to 5000 - 7000 RPM (½ to ¾ throttle). The clutch lever should recede toward the handlebar. Observe the amount of clutch lever movement at the end of the clutch lever. The amount the clutch lever moves is the free play gain. Repeat the revving procedure a couple more times to confirm that free play gain is consistent. Be sure to let the engine return all the way to idle before revving the engine again. For most machines, the correct amount of free play gain is ⅛ inch but can be up to ¼” on select machines. Refer to your installation manual for specific free play gain specifications. If the free play gain falls outside of spec, adjustments to the installed gap should be made before riding the machine. For instructions on how to adjust the installed gap, consult the installation manual provided with your auto clutch. Appropriate Oil Using a suitable oil is key to ensuring peak auto clutch performance. Rekluse has recently developed its own line of oils for street and dirt motorcycle applications and has recommendations on alternatives. Learn more about Rekluse Factory Formulated Oils HERE. Dirt Bikes - Rekluse clutch systems are designed to work with OEM recommended oils, specifically those that meet JASO MA or MA2 standards. In-house oil testing has repeatedly shown that clutch performance is maximized with oils explicitly designed for wet-clutch applications. There are some oils Rekluse does NOT recommend which are JASO-MB oils and automotive oils. JASO-MB oils are not designed for wet-clutches, and automotive oils may contain friction modifiers that negatively affect clutch performance. Street Bikes - Rekluse recommends its Factory Formulated Oils, to use the OEM’s recommended oils, or any high-quality primary oil. Break-in Procedure Any time a new Rekluse auto clutch is installed or rebuilt it is imperative to follow the break-in procedure outlined in the installation manual. The break-in procedure is essential for a couple reasons. First, to ensure proper and smooth EXP disk operation, and second, to ensure the clutch components gradually mate to one another. Proper break-in ultimately allows the clutch to create the most friction during engagement and efficiently transfer power to the ground. A series of roll-on starts are used to break-in Rekluse auto clutches. Be sure to follow the break-in procedure outlined in the installation manual that came with your clutch. This is key to performance and durability! Re-check Free Play Gain Once a Rekluse auto clutch has been broken in it is important that the free play gain is re-checked. As parts mate to one another during break-in, it is possible the installed gap will change and require adjustment. Regular Oil Changes Clutch performance and longevity depend on oil quality. Dirty or degraded oil can easily and quickly increase clutch wear rates. To ensure your clutch operates optimally, Rekluse recommends following your machines OEM specified oil change schedule. Periodic Maintenance and Wear Signs In-depth instructions for checking and servicing Rekluse auto clutches can be found within the supplied installation manual as well as online. Generally speaking, aside from the additional checks and inspections of the EXP disk, clutch inspections and servicing tasks are very similar to regular clutches. The Rekluse website has a complete archive of support documents. Click the image above to find support material for your product and application. Periodic maintenance should be performed per the schedule shown below. The “light” usage range is based on an average rider’s moderate use. The “Heavy” inspection range is based on riding in extreme environments or riding conditions. Use this table as a general guideline to maintenance intervals based on riding style and conditions for the maintenance practices below . As always, each person's situation will vary, so be sure to be sure to perform maintenance as necessary. The following information is provided to highlight essential maintenance inspections and to provide an overview of periodic maintenance activities. EXP Disk Inspection Measure the EXP Disk thickness The thickness of the EXP disk should be measured across the friction pads and compared to the specifications provided in the installation manual. Measure the thickness of your EXP disk on the friction pad and compare to the spec in your Rekluse product manual. If measurements are outside of spec, the EXP bases and Teflon pads should be replaced. Test the EXP Wedges From the inside of the EXP disk, push a pair of wedges opposite one another outward. Once fully extended, release the wedges and observe how they retract. The wedges should return smoothly to their original position. With the EXP disk removed from your machine, push the wedges outward, then release. They should return quickly and smoothly. Consider replacing if there is any stiction or notchiness. If any of the wedges stick, the EXP bases and Teflon pads may need to be replaced. EXP Disk Visual Inspections Inspect the EXP tabs that engage with the clutch basket tangs for signs of hammering and deformation. Check that all friction pads bonded to the EXP plates are in place. Ensure the friction pads are not glazed over. They should appear almost black and have a somewhat rough surface. Pads that are glazed over will have a smooth and shiny appearance. If any glazed pads are encountered the EXP base should be replaced. The first photo shows a new friction pad and the second photo shows a worn friction pad. A worn friction pad indicates the EXP bases should be replaced. Check the EXP assembly for discoloration. Discoloration may be a sign that the clutch overheated. If overheating occurred, the bases and wedges may need to be replaced. With the EXP Disk Disassembled Check the ramps in each EXP base. The ramps are the part of the EXP base that engages with the Teflon pads and allows the wedges to slide in and out of the disk assembly. Ramps that have machining marks or are slightly polished are normal. Ramps with indentations or raised burrs are abnormal, and the EXP base should be replaced. Notice the worn out ramps on the EXP base in the first photo versus the ramps on the new EXP base in the second photo. This is a sign it's time to replace the EXP bases. Check the Teflon pads that reside in the wedges. The Teflon pads should be defect free and sit slightly above the wedge pocket. The Teflon pads can sometimes fall out when the EXP disk is disassembled, so be sure that they are all accounted for before reassembly. Any time the EXP bases are replaced, it is highly recommended that the Teflon pads are replaced as well for best performance. The Teflon pads that sit in the wedges are the contact points for the ramps on the EXP bases. These should also be inspected for wear and replaced as necessary, especially when the EXP bases are being replaced! Drive Plate Inspections Check all drive plates for signs of excess heat buildup by looking for discoloration. Drive plates appearing purple, blue, or black can be an indication that excess heat was built up. This example shows what coloring to look for on the drive plates to know if they've been subject to overheating, and if so, how much. Friction Disk Inspection Check all friction disks for signs of glazing. The friction disks will appear black and rough under normal circumstances. Glazed friction disks will appear smooth and shiny once oil is removed from them. Friction pads on new friction plates have a textured surface and are tan in color. If your fiction plates appear dark or black in color and have a smooth, glossy finish, it's time to replace your friction plates. Operation While there are limited operating restrictions associated with Rekluse auto clutches, there are a couple of noteworthy restrictions that should be adhered to. Do not perform 3rd gear starts - starting in 3rd gear will increase the chances of burning up the clutch and significantly decrease its life. For some street applications, it is crucial to maintain a cruise RPM at or above the recommended cruising RPM outlined in the installation manual. For example, cruise RPM for auto clutches installed on Harley-Davidson motorcycles should be above 2200RPM to ensure the EXP disk is fully engaged. This will ensure clutch slippage and excess heat build-up is avoided. Wrap Up This overview of regular and periodic auto clutch maintenance highlights how easy maintaining an auto clutch can be as well as how important doing so is to ensure the clutch performs optimally throughout its life. Regular maintenance boils down to ensuring break-in is performed according to Rekluse’s recommendations, the free-play gain is checked consistently, the proper oil is utilized, and the oil is changed routinely. Periodic maintenance items consist of a couple of measurements, a functionality check, and several visual inspections to ensure all components are in tip-top shape. If you’re ready to increase the performance of your machine, you can find Rekluse clutches via the Rekluse Make/Model finder or dealer locator. Alternatively, Rekluse customer service can be contacted at 208-426-0659 or by email at customerservice@rekluse.com.
  9. I've searched the forums and I couldn't find anything quite like my predicament, so direct me to it if you know of one. I was doing wheelies (not ideal for a clutch, I know) and my clutch started slipping; revving up with no bite. I limped it home and started doing some research. I've never delved into a clutch before, but I carefully took it all apart and checked it, and the fictions plates as well as the springs (longer than the limit, right?) are still well within spec. The metal plates all still have those small diamond dimples in them, although I'm not sure how big they are supposed to be. They did had some very slight blue hue on them when I angled the light just right, but only on some spots. I haven't checked for the 0.1mm of warpage yet because I don't really have any spare glass to use. I also recently replaced my clutch lever, but I made sure there is adequate freeplay before the clutch engages. I can't imagine it could be rubbing if there's freeplay and the springs are in spec? I also noticed that the mating surface of the... flywheel?... is polished to an almost mirror-like finish. This has me suspicious, but again, this is the first clutch I've ever seen. I can take more photos if that's helpful. Edit: the bike has 21k miles on it, and presumably this is the stock clutch (she's been around the block)
  10. Fanga Dagen

    Clutch Diagnosis

    If I sit on flat ground in 1st gear with the clutch all the way in the bike still wants to roll forward like its still slightly in gear. Any ideas on the problem, or how to fix it?
  11. Blake Zimmerman

    Clutch Bearing Help

    I have recently been having some issues with a clutch on my 250 and I believe it is due to a bearing seated before the thing that comes out and threads with the clutch pulley deal. Sorry don't have the manual. But Im wondering the the pressure plate should be replaced as well.
  12. Hello, I have a 2001 YZ250 and I'm having issues with my bike rolling forward while my clutch is engaged. Should I be troubleshooting the clutch handle, cable or the basket? Thank you in advance, I really need the help
  13. When I got this bike everything worked as it should and then when I took it out and rode it the clutch would stop working. The clutch lost all feeling and the lever could be moved with no resistance. I looked inside the housing and the push lever was half way up and I couldnt move it. I've gotten new clutch plates, springs, push rod, and cable and nothing seems to fix it. I looked at the clutch basket and it looks good and before it stopped working the clutch felt smooth.
  14. My 04 YZ450f clutch works fine when bike is running in all gears, but when bike is off when I pull the clutch In while bike is in gear nothing happens, I’m new to T4s but I don’t think this is normal
  15. So every time I ride my 2003 RM 125 I put my bike into first gear slowing down and I put the clutch in all the way it still stalls. What could it be
  16. Iceburg41

    Ktm projunior 50 lc

    I replaced the clutch in my sons ktm projunior 50 lc should it be able to kick over and roll with out trans fluid in it
  17. Justinhaefemeyer

    1993 cr250r clutch actuator

    I was going to replace my clutch cable on my cr250r and the clutch arm on the actuator has some free play but not enough to be able to put on the new cable. Is there something I'm missing when I took the old cable off?
  18. I put a new clutch hub and inner basket on my 01yz250 and I don't think the clutch hub is going far enough in to allow for the locking clip to for over the shaft. It seems like the basket is not far enough in. Notice picture 4) that shows the inner hub almost flush to the spines on the shaft. There should be some exposed spines so I can slide the clip, picture 3) over it, to then bend the clip next to the nut. Is there a reason why there's not enough clearance?
  19. Hey everyone, After noticing my clutch was starting slip several weeks ago I decided to buy a replacement kit from Tusk (Competition Plates & Springs) and hope that a fresh install would fix my problem. I have installed this very same kit in my bike about two years ago without any issue (that I can remember), so I figured this would be a pretty quick fix as long as the clutch basket wasn't damaged. I opened the clutch cover up and after not noticing any unusual wear or damage inside, I installed the new clutch plates and springs without issue. After I put the bike back together I noticed my clutch lever pull felt extremely light, and that no matter how much I pumped the lever it would not build any pressure. So, I reverse bled my clutch and regained a normal-ish clutch pull. However, after starting the bike up and shifting in to gear it immediately started trying to roll away (I had the brake covered), and I found it extremely difficult to shift gears at this point. While this is going on I also started to notice a lovely burning smell coming from my clutch so I shut the bike off, and re-did everything I mentioned above from reinstalling plates to bleeding the clutch. The result when I started it up again was the same and at this point I am out of ideas. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this issue? Thanks in advance. Smallen
  20. Warwickbass

    Clutch going back? Or worse??

    Finally got my 87’ XR250R running good, but not driving well... while accelerating I can shift from 1-2,2-3, 3-4, but when I let the clutch out in 4th it’s like false neutral. I have zero power. The interesting thing is if I let the clutch out really slowly, or without giving gas at the same time, it won’t slip/pop out of gear. I’m trying to determine if this could be an issue with the clutch, or if I’m going to have to split the case open, which obviously is not ideal. It will also occasionally do it in other gears. One other thing to note is the shifts aren’t always smooth, often time it can be tough to downshift into 1st or second. Any help would be appreciated.
  21. joshstefan

    CRF250R 2006, Clutch not working.

    Hello, One of my buddies got his top end rebuilt couple months ago on his 2006 CRF250R. When he took it home he rode it up the street a few times & it worked fine. Yesterday we went to the track, pretty cold morning 30-40 degrees & after warming up the bikes he went to take off & the clutch is not working what so ever. Tries to drop it in gear & it just stalls. What could it be? clutch plates suck together from sitting too long? too long? let me know. Thanks
  22. BadcaseofTB

    Where does this part go?

    I missed tracking where this little top hat came out of in my 2011 kx450f. Was thinking clutch or right side engine cover. Any help would be appreciated I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
  23. George R Decker Jr

    01 ktm 250exc clutch slave

    Hey guys I'm running into a problem my slave cylinder is shot and discontinued I was wondering if anyone knew what options I have for a slave cylinder I cant find the exact one anywhere only thing close I have found is an obereon clu 1201 but apparently the hose hookup is different if anyone has gone through this and knows what I can do I could really use some help
  24. Richard Caudill

    17 ktm 50sx

    I recently bout a 17 ktm 50sx off of another owner. At first the ktm rode fine, and the tire somewhat free spun. After a couple of rides the rear wheel started to have some drag. I noticed at that time the rear brake was sticking. So I changed out the rear brake pads, then later the disk. After resolving those issues it didn’t take long before the rear wheel started to drag again. Now the rear wheel has no free spin. I’m wondering if the clutches need changed? Or a bearing issue? I took off the chain and the tire freely spins, so whatever the case is something internally with clutch or a bearing of some sort... please help
  25. Gandoolf

    Unusual clutch problem

    I've had this '84 xr350 for over a year now and I still haven't ridden it. I've had a myriad of issues with it and after I've fixed the clutch I think it'll be in riding condition. This bike has had a rough life and the people who have worked on it haven't exactly been kind to it, or maybe they just had no idea what they were doing. The issues with the clutch have been there the whole time I've owned it. At first the clutch was extremely difficult to pull in, it wouldn't budge after the free play in the lever. I cleaned out the cable and still had the same issue. I drained the oil and took the case cover off and took a look at the basket, the plates were all stuck together and seem to be covered in a thick brown sludge, I carefully separated them using a flat aluminium bar. I took off the spring retainer and the springs and found that the inner part of the basket was fused to the outer part, I worked at them until they spun separately, they're still quite tough to spin though. I saw that the main nut holding the clutch assembly together has some dings in it and there's even a corner of it broken off. I don't have a 27mm socket so I can't take it off and fully disassemble the clutch right now. I put the springs back on and tightened them down with the retainer and noticed that if it's all snugged up the springs are almost completely compressed and once I replaced the side cover there was freeplay through the whole clutch until the end where it's really hard to pull and only has a tiny bit of movement and the clutch wouldn't engage. I took it all apart again and loosened the spring retainer so the springs weren't so compressed and put it back together, the clutch felt far better, like a normal clutch, it still didn't engage though. I'm at a bit of a loss. Do I have the wrong springs in there? maybe there are supposed to be spacers so the bolts don't clamp the springs down as far? Has anyone else had similar issues?