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HOW TO USE A GPS ON YOUR BIKE AND AT YOUR COMPUTER Step-by-Step Procedures for Garmin/Mapsource INTRODUCTION... Before we get into the step-by-step procedures, let's clarify the differences between tracks and routes. It's easy to say that routes consist of waypoints and that tracks consist of trackpoints, but that doesn't help you and me understand how we experience those differences at our computers and on our bikes. The following does, and after you read it, you'll understand why the procedures below focus on tracks, not routes... At the Computer... In Mapsource, it's easy to create a new route with the Route tool, or a new track with the Track Draw tool. You can distinguish one track from another on your computer screen by selecting a different color for each track in the file. You cannot colorize routes. It's easy to determine the total distance of a track or route, or the distance between one trackpoint and another, but not easy to determine the distance between one waypoint and another. It's easy to edit a route by moving the waypoints to a new location, but you can't move trackpoints, so it's more difficult to edit a track. TopoFusion does not have this limitation. It's easy to adjust the number of trackpoints in a track to accomodate the maximum for your gps, but not easy to adjust the number of waypoints. You have to split large routes into two or more smaller ones, or delete the waypoints sequentially, in groups or one by one. You can't (easily) convert a route to a track or a track to a route, but Topofusion easily does both. On the Bike... Most gps units can store 10 times more trackpoints than waypoints. The eTrex, for example, can store 10,000 trackpoints, but only 500 waypoints. It's usually better, therefore, to use tracks rather than routes for long rides, or for rides with lots of intersecting roads and trails. You can break the ride into several tracks without exceeding the maximum for your gps, and still have relatively small distances between one point and another. That means you can stay closer to the intended course, and not miss turns. Trackpoints do not clutter the gps display -- waypoints do. STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURES... 1 - Somebody sends you a fun course and you want to check it out this weekend Launch Mapsource and open the gps file you plan to use for your ride Compare the total distance of the route to your bike's range Compare the total number of waypoints to the maximum for your gps Use the map tool to select the map quadrants that cover your route Transfer the route, waypoints and map quadrants from your computer to your gps Mount the gps on your bike, turn it on, then wait for it to lock onto the satellites Turn on your tracklog function and set it to every 0.1 miles Setup your gps so your current direction of travel is up Press ENTER on your gps and store your position as CAMP Activate the track, and set it for navigation to the end Select COMPASS mode, and follow the big arrow blindly... 🙂 Or Map mode and follow your course in relation to map details Monitor trip distance, speed and next waypoint while you ride Try different ZOOM IN/OUT settings as you approach and exit turns Continue following the track to its end, then stop navigation Transfer the tracklog of your ride from your gps to the computer Compare the tracklog of your ride to your original route Attach your ride to an email and share it with your other gps buddies 2 - You’ve scouted a fun course and want to make a track from the tracklog Connect your gps to the serial or USB port on your computer Launch Mapsource, click Transfer, then Receive Click the Tracks tab, then double click the tracklog name Click Filter on the Track Properties box, then click Max Points Enter 250 (or the max for your gps) and click OK Right click tracklog name, then click Track Properties Click Track Name, insert a name you'll remember, and save 3 - You want to retain the resolution of the original tracklog Do not save the tracklog as a saved track in your gps! Download it from your gps, but do not filter it! Rename it to something like Fun-Ride-Log Split log into two or more tracks with 250 trackpoints each... Method 1 => Click Tools => Track Split, then click anywhere on the track Move pointer to first place where a split is to occur, then click Continue selecting split points along the path of the route Save each with a name like Fun-Ride-1, Fun-Ride-2 and so forth Method 2 => Double click Fun-Ride-Log and note total number of trackpoints Click the first trackpoint in the list Press and hold Shift, click 250th trackpoint, then OK Right click your mouse and select Copy Click Edit => New Track => End Right click mouse and click Paste Name the new track Fun-Ride 1 Repeat for next 250 trackpoints and so forth 4 - You have an idea for a fun ride, and want to create a new track Click Track Draw Move mouse pointer to first point along your new course and click once Repeat until entire track is drawn Press ESC on your keyboard Right click track name (default = Track 001) Change name to something you'll remember 5 - You found a new way back to camp, and want to modify your track Method 1 => Laydown a new path using the Track Draw tool Move the pointer to where the old track should change Delete trackpoints from that point to the end of the track Copy the new trackpoints onto the end of the old one You can edit a track internally, too, but it's more difficult Method 2 => Save the file in the gpx format, then open it in TopoFusion Move trackpoints to their new location and save 6 - You've got the gps for a fun ride, but it's a route, not a track Mapsource (the hard way) Click Tools, then Track Draw and laydown a new track using the route as a guide Move mouse pointer to first point and click (once) Repeat until entire track is drawn, then press ESC Find Track 001 in the list, rename and save TopoFusion (the easy way) Open the track in Mapsource, save in the gpx format, then open in TopoFusion Click the Profile-Playback tool, then click anywhere on the route Wait for the Profile dialogue box to appear, then cancel it Right click the highlighted track, click SAVE AS, and save with a new name 7 - You found a new way back to camp, and want to modify your track Method 1 => Laydown a new path using the Track Draw tool Move the pointer to where the old track should change Delete trackpoints from that point to the end of the track Copy the new trackpoints onto the end of the old one You can edit a track internally, too, but it's more difficult Method 2 => Save the file in the gpx format, then open it in TopoFusion Move trackpoints to their new location and save View attachment: At the Computer.jpg View attachment: On the Bike.jpg
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Original owner installed TM40, 40F0, and Cogent DDC and shock rebuild. Oh, and a Sargent seat. I could live on this thing. Can we go ride now? -
Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Pikes Peak (2014)
wildbill525 posted garage vehicle in wildbill525's Garage
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This is my 3rd Multistrada so I guess I like 1st was 06 620 purchased FireWire but she never road os daughter and I put 8k miles on it. 2nd was 2010 st put 40000 miles on it had lotsaproblems but Ducati always mmade it right and it nevrr left me sttanded. Put Ohlins semi active suspension computer system upgrd unbelievable improvement. Pikes Peak is more refined than 2010 but still a blast to ride wears out tires PR4S @ 3 k mile intervals but they're hooking up mostly mountain abd canyon riding -
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Love it! -
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I absolutely love this bike. My first KTM, also my first 4 stroke. Powerful, nimble, light, precise, reliable. This bike has it all. I have owned the major four Japanese brands and had a KTM 50 sx sr pro for my son that he outgrew. I have always known the prowess of KTM bikes, but this modern 4 stroke displays what they are truly capable of. Light and strong SX frame and motor, trailworthy 18" rear, large desert tank that feels small, handguards, electric AND kick start!.. and kick stand. The motor pulls hard from idle to limiter (which is high!) you can ride this thing down low like a 450 in tight off camber single track or pulling long hills in deep sand. Or you can rev it to the moon and flick it sideways like a 125. Love it. When the motor needs freshening, and I need more juice, big bore kit and done. Oh ya, btw the suspension. Oh the suspension. Very good for stock. I am 5'10" 185 and this thing is stuff enough for whoops and big jumps but plush enough to keep me riding hard and not be fatigued. Best of both worlds. Thank god the Sx/ xcf has linkage. -
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Great bike! Tons of power! Suspension is great. Will need heavier spring rate if you are a larger rider. Experiment with gearing for better feel. GYTR tuner is a great investment. Love it!! -
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Permanently in motard mode. Daily commuter. Fun to ride. Does pretty good wheelies. -
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Its a 10 year old motocross bike, with very low hours. Perfect for an Enduro conversion. This bike astounds me. One day I'm riding MX on a track, the next I'm riding in the desert on single track. Its unstoppable, and just so easy and forgiving. I love this bike. -
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Still new to the bike big improvment from the dr350 and will update this when I have more sadle time. -
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Love the bike. Complete rebuild/restoration ($4000 or so). The 2nd/5th gears and 14R/48 sprockets are great choices. I love the look I've ended up with and couldn't be happier with the ride on and off road. Great bike for me. -
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I picked this bike up new cheap. I want a smaller bike in my stable, and this fit the bill. Electric start and short seat height, mellow power, and decent brakes. I have ridden this bike in some pretty hideous stuff and it fared well. I use it for slow technical stuff as it is not fast. A skilled rider can easily out-ride the front fork at speed. I have trained a TON of people on this bike and is fantastic for training new riders. I ended up dual-sporting this bike, but is still used primarily off-road. There is a reason these bikes are still made! -
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What's the point of owning it if I can't give it 5 stars?! Seriously, I'm new to the dirt bike world. I've had a Harley, but never played in the dirt. I bought the bike and I'm completely going through it, and making it a dual sport and street legal. The only thing I won't touch is the motor for now, as it was just overhauled before I got it. I think this bike will have more power than I need and will put a smile on my face every time I ride her. -
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Typical Honda both the good and bad. Feels like a nice improvement over my previous '05 CRF250R -
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The best bike for all types of riding. -
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This bike suits my riding perfectly. With a tooth down on the front sprocket, this bike loves super tight single track, more technical the better. After playing with the stock suspension adjustments it tracks great even on the rockiest, wet rooted trails. Can't say enough good things about this bike. With typical maintenance and stainless steel intake valves swap, the bike has a long life ahead of it on the PA mountains. -
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It's nice -
I just got my power tuner for my 2015 yz250fx and was just wondering if anyone has any maps that they have had good experiences with.
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The following thread got off topic discussing GPS units, page 2 has most of the GPS stuff: /topic/1098400-little-naches-side-of-things/page-2#entry11818832 so I thought I'd start a new thread to discuss GPS options. The technology is changing for viewing maps on smartphones and several apps make use of a phones GPS sensor. Also there are free download maps from goveremnt agencies and private parties, and user created trails on sites like switchbacks.com. I thought we all could learn more about this subject by sharing information and our experiences. This picture illustrates the advantange of using a smartphone vs a typical outdoor GPS unit. Compared to the outdoor GPS unit the smartphone is not as physically robust, nor water resistant, and is missing many functions. I've been using both on rides but keep the smartphone in its protective covers and in my pack.
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I used to ride almost only sand dunes so I am coming off a 450. Moving to a 250 now that I am riding single track more and just looking for a more agile bike. Yes the 2015 is powerful for a 250, but what if I want MORE out of it while still keeping the handling characteristics. Please give me some suggestions for power modifications, best bang for the buck! The bike will be in everything ranging from tight single track to open desert to MX track. Riding elevation ranges from 5000 to 8000 ft if that affects any decision when it comes to engine modifications. Here's a picture before the bike break in just to excite some people.
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Hello guys,New to the forum. Quick question,I have a 1994 klx650c i recently purchased and am in the process of upgrading it. Have a trial tech vapor speedo ready to fit,however just wondering about the stock instrument gauges etc. Is it literally a case of unplugging the old dash and fitting the Vapor? Is the Dash used to complete the stock wiring circuit? e.g-if i unplug it and leave it unplugged is it going to effect the running of the bike? What about the dash lights,how would i go about wiring these up? electrics really isn't my strong point,got the basics covered but way too complicated for me. any help greatly appreciated,any more info you need please feel free to ask. thanks Jordan.
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My bike doesn't have one and I want one. Does anybody A) Know where I can get one, and have one they'd sell me.
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I got bored, cleaned my supertrapp discs (I don't think it had ever been done, it was solid grim) and had some red high-temp engine enamel spray paint laying around, so I painted the tip of the Supertrapp and the exhaust guard, then baked it in the oven. Worked great and gave my XR something a little different.....
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I've read it on these forums over and over about riders changing their oil on every ride, every other ride, or some other forum of willy-nilly interval. I'm all for making sure I'm running good, clean oil, but I believe that too many are changing their oil unnecessarily often, costing them both time and money that could be used for gas to the track or trail or other necessary maintenance. If you're out riding from 9am to 4pm, chances are your motor wasn't running the whole time. So, you didn't ride for 7 hours, more like 4-5 running hours and that's what counts when it comes to changing your oil. That said, either pay attention to your hour meter or install an hour meter and follow the interval in your manual. Or, if you're especially anal, reduce your manufacturer's recommendation by 10%. So, for example, if your manual says every 15 hours, go with 13.5. However, if you're racing, every single advantage matters, so changing oil after every race MIGHT make sense. If you really want to know, have the oil analyzed. This is the ONLY way to truly know the condition of the oil. I guess my real point here is to keep tracking of running hours, not the time between when you left and came back. Trust me, your motor wasn't running nearly as much as you are estimating and considering the increasing cost of just riding, you'll appreciate the money saved and you can use the time saved for writing letters to your elected officials in the effort to preserve our riding areas. 👍
