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Found 1,253 results

  1. Hey all, I recently had a 440 kit installed in my "00XR400 and with the heavy duty clutch springs that were part of the kit, the clutch work was a little tougher than I like. So I bought a Hebo hydraulic universal clutch kit from my buddy Jim Cook at Smackover Motorsports. The reviews of it I'd read said the pull was slightly easier and longer than the Magura and quality was as good or better. Thing is, after looking around all over the web, I could find no help or suggestions on where to mount the slave cylinder on an XR. These are 3 links I used to help me, tho none of them work specifically with the XR. http://www.john-stichnoth.com/Hebo.html http://dirtrider.net/drn_tested/erider/hydrualic_clutch.html http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2151 So after spending a few days experimenting with different potential mounting points, keeping in mind I need to take into consideration the amount of heat the unit will see and keep it accessable yet somewhat protected, I put it on the left side of the forward main frame downtube. I fashioned a bracket that would use the left mounting point for the fuel tank. Having an IMS 4 gal tank made options scarce. Maybe if anyone else wants to do this project on an XR, between the links provided and what I'll add, it will be a little easier. I used the long cable and sheath provided in the kit, without cutting/altering it's length. And the stock style cable keeper/adjuster that uses the stock bracket mounted to the right case cover. The end of the cable is bare so you use the cable clamp provided in the kit that fits the XRs throw lever. Here's a picture of the slave cylinder mount. I used a temporary spacer setup the same thickness as the fueltank mount for initial fitting of the cylinder. I wrapped the cylinder in the same heat wrap I used on the header to help shield it from any heat. I used plastic spiral wrap on the braided line to add some abrasion and heat resistance to it. Here's final installation pictures. [ My decomp lever would no longer fit on the handlebars, so for now, until I figure out something better, I mounted it to the bark buster. Here's a tip I discovered. The bleeder nipple/fitting bolt threads are a sloppy fit. When trying to bleed the system with my vacuum bleed tool, air/vacuum escapes around the threads of the nipple and prevents the tool from working properly. I had to remove the nipple and wrap its threads with teflon tape. The system bled fine after that. Getting the amount of lever pull I needed was tricky and took me awhile to figure out. Took the bike for a spin up and down the street to check it and Man is this thing sweet! I bet it cut lever pull difficulty by 50% or more. The braided line is longer than I needed for this install and figuring out a way to route the excess and get the end clocked in the orientation I needed it was a pain. Later I might have it shortend. Hope this might help someone else that is contemplating this mod. Trailryder42
  2. The handlebars and throttle, plus the clutch, front and rear brake levers are called “the controls” for a reason – this is how you control the bike therefore it is essential that you have a finger or two at most, or right side toes over the appropriate control at all times, ready to use. I can’t stress that enough! It’s very critical that you have your controls in the preferred position, otherwise it will have a huge effect on your ability to properly control the motorcycle and to get into the correct body position. With the handlebars, looking from underneath, the handlebars need to run straight down in line with your fork tubes. You don’t want them too far forward or back as it makes it very hard to be precise with your steering. With the clutch and front brake levers, you want to have them positioned just below horizontal. If they are pointing too far to the ground, it is hard to keep your fingers out there and to use those controls in all body positions that you move to on the bike. Again, use one or two fingers, not three or four and have them out there at all times. Having four fingers on the levers makes it very easy for the bars to get ripped out of your hands and that is very dangerous. The free play for both of these levers needs to be adjusted so they are fully operational before they hit the knuckles of your fingers gripping the bars. The back side of the clutch lever needs to touch the outer portion of the grip once it is pulled in and this is achieved by having both the clutch and brake perch positioned towards the center of the bike about 2 inches or 50mm from the inside edge of the grip. The indentation on the clutch lever is designed for your first finger to go there. If those perches are positioned too far to the outside of the bike, it is impossible to have your first finger in the correct position on the lever and have the rest of your hand up against the inner edge of the grip. Some students at my DirtWise schools have it messed up so bad that they actually ride with their pinky finger over the outside of the end of their barkbusters, no joke! With the Flexx handlebars that I use, it is so much easier to attain the correct positioning as they have a much longer outer tube for control placement. The other great thing about them is that they move up and down and absorb a lot of the shock out of those beat up trails which is really good for your wrists, especially if they are like mine! The Flexx bars are a great investment and yes, you can buy them from shanewatts.com Your rear brake and shift lever need to be positioned horizontal to the foot peg for ease of use. This also allows you to have your toes over that rear brake at all times ready for instantaneous use on the trail. So, before you ride next, be sure that all your controls are properly set-up. It absolutely does make a difference in your ability to control the bike. Cheers, Shane About me >>> discuss this tip
  3. 5 reviews

    The Acerbis Endurance Handguard was developed and designed for the need of an extreme rider. It is extremely strong and deflects brush, trees, roost, and other riders. Black aluminum bar provides cutting edge looks, while the curved design provides improved fit on the bike and enhanced ergonomics for the rider. Black X-Strong Universal mounting kit included; works on 7/8", 1 1/8", and twin wall handlebars. Replacement plastic shields available.
  4. 2 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS BRP Hand Guard Mounts are a perfect hand guard mounting solution when space is limited or when controls interfere with standard hand guard mounts. Also a great option for SUB Mounted applications. Made from aircraft aluminum and black anodized for a trick look. BRP Hand Guard Mounts have the same contour and shape as BRP & Scotts SUB Mounts.
  5. 2 reviews

    BRP THREADED BAR INSERTS... are a more secure mounting system for aluminum handlebars using wrap-around style enduro hand guards. They are sold as a self install kit that includes two inserts, two flathead bolts to mount your handguards , one 5/8-11 tap to thread your handlebars and an instruction sheet to guide you through the install procedure. BRP inserts install with a common hex key wrench and can be transfered from one bike to another. The basic concept of tapping the handlebar to accept the threaded insert works like a charm. By limiting the depth of the tapped handle bar you can tightly bottom out the threaded insert preventing them from loosening. The throttle side insert is apprx 1/4" longer to accomodate the throttle pipe. The tap comes marked so it is simple to tap your bars to the correct depth. The threaded bar insert is the most solid mount on the market at this time and outperforms anything else. SPECIAL NOTES: We recommend using red loctite on the insert to prevent it from coming loose. Azonic double wall and Renthal Twin Wall Handle bars are a larger ID than other aluminum bars and these inserts DO NOT fit these bars. These are the only 2 bars we have found that are not compatable at this time.
  6. 1 review

    SPECIFICATIONS: - Stock replacement brake and clutch levers. - Available in standard and short length. - MX, ED and dual sports models available, Sold Separately.
  7. 4 reviews

    The Fastway Steering Stabilizer is probably the single greatest improvement to handling that you can make to your ATV, Motocross, Off-road, or Adventure motorcycle. Proven to reduce rider fatigue, headshake and high speed shimmy, the Fastway System 3 and System 5 will help stabilize the front end of your ATV, Motocross, Off-road, or Adventure motorcycle and let the entire suspension do its job while the rider experiences increased control, quicker lap times, and better handling.
  8. 3 reviews

    DESCRIPTION Forged from solid billet aluminium these extremely lightweight foot pegs are refined during the manufacturing process for unrivalled strength. The unique triple bridge design allows for 17 teeth across 3 rows for superb grip. The aerodynamic design reduces excess mud build up and 57mm overall width provides greater stability. All this and spare standard grips plus and additional set of super aggressive teeth. The RHK Pursuit foot peg is a must have for all serious riders and racers. SPECIFICATIONS SKU: L05YA120001 Brand: RHK Technology Shipping Weight: 0.9900kg
  9. 1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Our hand guard mounts are the slickest, strongest, lightest, easiest way to mount your hand guards. CNC machined from aerospace grade aluminum, these are strong, light and beautiful. Replaces the top bar clamps for a rock solid hand guard mount. The very best way to mount your hand guards, PERIOD!! Fits all Acerbis Rally Pro, Multiplo, Moose, Cycra, EE and similar style bar mount hand guards.
  10. 5 reviews

    Protects your slave cylinder in the event you throw a chain or hit a rock. ITEM SPECIFICATIONS Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is ... Read moreabout the condition. Brand: ENDURO ENGINEERING Warranty: No Manufacturer Part Number: 13-092
  11. 2 reviews

    GENERAL INFORMATION Very nice billet triple clamps, Makes the conversion to USD forks very easy The only thing that was a bit of a let down was the fact that the front brake hose guide mounting has not been provided or even thought about by the looks of it? I have to work out a way to use the original XR250 brake hose guides or the CRF ones & of course the XR hose guide bolt holes dont line up so some modifying has to be done? Apart from that they are a very nice product
  12. 0 reviews

    I've ran MSR hand guards during the winter for the past couple seasons and really like the added weather protection they offer. I recently ordered up a set of the GL hand guards to replace the MSR units with and finally got them mounted up. I really like the new GL guards, they are bigger/taller and should do a better job at keeping the cold wind off my hands. I also like rubber strap system for mounting and the lack of Cordura fabric covering that the MSR units had (they got torn very quickly). Top notch :thumb With either units I like to drill a small hole in each hand guard and mount them to my plastic guards with a bolt. This makes the whole unit super solid and keeps them from moving around while on the trail. Comparison shot between the MSR and the GL guards. I also prefer the looks of the GL units! FEATURES Cold/wet weather comfort Brush, mud and trail protection Strap on/off in seconds Multiple mounting configurations to fit most motorcycle makes/models equipped with rigid hand guards and/or deflectors Tough stretch polyurethane strap (can be used separately) Custom wind foil shapes No stitching or pieces to fail When not using Bushwackers, straps have a thousand other uses: lash water bottles, fuel, gear to tail rack, hold flashlight in place while working in dark Made in USA
  13. 2 reviews

    DESCRIPTION Like the Titanium Footpegs, the pegs feature a triple row cleat design with a cross brace for positive grip and impact strength. They are 57mm wide for added grip and strength. FEATURES Stainless steel pegs are not only stronger and lighter than stock, in most cases they are a more cost effective alternative to OEM pegs Simple bolt on installation with no modifications Alternating V & X shaped teeth provide a positive grip regardless of conditions 57mm wide foot bed creates a confidence inspiring stable platform Made in the USA
  14. 3 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS: ZETA revolutionary over-sized handlebar. Tested and developed by Japanese factory riders. Taper shape design makes the bar flexible against vibration while keeping high rigidity. Made of A7075 - T6 aluminum that boasts great strength and durability. Knurled grip area to avoid slippage. Wide range of bends available. Includes injection molded rubber foam SX bar pad. Available in black color.
  15. 0 comments

    Great bike, all day comfortable, reliable. lots of fun
  16. 0 comments

    Love this bike!!! Mine is actually 2010 just couldn't find one here.
  17. 0 comments

    This thing hauls wheelies like no other bike. I had this thing standing straight up in first gear. #braaplife
  18. 0 comments

    Current mods: Seatconcepts seat Acerbis 3.7 gas tank (black) Acerbis RMZ 450 front fender Acerbis black tank shrouds Acerbis black number plates Acerbis black rear fender Rear luggage rack Thumpertalk Engine case protectors Thumpertalk Skid plate Zeta brake lever (from Wheeling Cycle Supply) Righteous clutch lever Zeta mirror holder (for GPS ball mount) (from Wheeling Cycle Supply) Moose racing black handguards Moose racing plastic handguards Polisport halo headlight (black) Black tail bag
  19. 0 comments

    So far great bike, still getting it set up for dual sport (light use)
  20. 0 comments

    Best bike I've owned so far. The map switch makes it into multiple bikes with the push of a button. I bought it because I was tired of always chasing power with my 250F. Now I have more power than I will ever need and can focus on detuning it with the push of a button for tight single track. Suspension: best stock suspension I've ridden, this is the first bike that I'm not going to revalve. Works on single track rocks and roots while also getting me around a vet MX track. Handling: feels lighter than my old 250F and has much better front wheel feel/feedback. You actually get some warning before the front washes out. I'm currently running a 2 link longer chain, I like the way the bike handles with the longer wheelbase. Still turns well and is super stable on whooped out desert runs. Brakes: the front brake needed bleeding when new, but after getting all the air out it's plenty strong with good modulation/feedback. The rear brake works without being too grabby. Controls: the clutch pull is light and stays consistent, I do think the engagement point is abrupt, but I got used to it. The throttle cam is on the aggressive side at low throttle openings and will bite you if you get careless. Rider triangle: I'm short, 5'7", so the low seat and stock handlebar position works great for me. Contrary to other reviews, I don't feel like the bike is any wider than other liquid cooled bikes I've ridden. Plastic: the oem blue plastic has gotten much better than my old WR. After a year of riding there are no white streaks anywhere on the bike. The inlayed graphics are sweet, still look brand new! Overall fit and finish: bike is wearing very well. I'm still running stock Controls and haven't had anything break. My fork seals did start seeping at 18 hours, but after cleaning the seals and started lubricating the lower tubes after every wash they have sealed back up. After 13 months all I've had to buy is oil, tires, front sprocket, and chain.
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