Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Coolant'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Dirt Bikes
    • General Dirt Bike Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Dirt Bike Technical Forums
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Dirt Bike Regional Discussion
  • General
    • General Forums
  • ATV / UTV
    • General ATV / UTV Forums
    • Make/Model Specific
    • ATV / UTV Regional Discussion
  • Inside TT
    • Inside TT Forums
  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's FAQ/Help & Discussion
  • RokFox's Current Kit
  • RokFox's What's New
  • LCV Trail Riders's Local Information
  • LCV Trail Riders's Planning
  • KJRRC - Krannie's Just Right Ride Club's Club Forum
  • Long Island Moto X-Change's Trail Riding
  • Long Island Moto X-Change's Enduro Racing
  • Long Island Moto X-Change's Motocross Racing
  • Long Island Moto X-Change's Harescramble Racing
  • Long Island Moto X-Change's Dual Sport
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Forum
  • Sonoma County,Mendocino County,Lake County & Napa County 707 Trail riders's tell us about your self and about your bike, what type of ridding you like to do,
  • Couple Riders of Stanislaus's Club Forum
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Discussion
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Places you ride
  • Jersey MX and offroad's Discussion
  • Sonoma Coast Skinny Twisties's Discussion
  • New Mexico Trail Riders's Discussion
  • Okanagan Off Road Motocycle Club's Club Forum

Categories

  • Universal Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Japanese Bikes
    • Honda Parts & Accessories
    • Kawasaki Parts & Accessories
    • Suzuki Parts & Accessories
    • Yamaha Parts & Accessories
  • Parts & Acc. - Euro Bikes
    • Beta Parts & Accessories
    • Husqvarna Parts & Accessories
    • KTM Parts & Accessories
    • Other Euro Parts & Accessories
  • Motorcycles
    • Off-Road Motorcycles
    • Dual Sport Motorcycles
    • Street Motorcycles
  • Powersports Gear & Apparel
  • Trucks, Trailers & Toy Haulers

Products Categories

Vehicles Categories

Garages

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • ThumperTalk Clubs FAQ & Help's Club Calendar
  • RokFox's Enduro Ride Schedule
  • LCV Trail Riders's Ride Calendar
  • KJRRC - Krannie's Just Right Ride Club's Club Calendar
  • So Cal Flattrack's Club Calendar
  • Sonoma County,Mendocino County,Lake County & Napa County 707 Trail riders's Club Calendar
  • Couple Riders of Stanislaus's Club Calendar
  • Couple Riders of Stanislaus's Club Photos
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Club Calendar
  • Thumperjunkies - Ottawa & Eastern Ontario Riders's Events
  • Sonoma Coast Skinny Twisties's Calendar
  • New Mexico Trail Riders's Events
  • Okanagan Off Road Motocycle Club's Club Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Interests

Found 42 results

  1. I live here in Iowa so the winters can get down to -25 or so and the summer heat can sometimes get to 115 degrees. What Anti-freeze would you recomend to put in my bike? Do any of you use Engine Ice? Im thinking about buying a jug. I also just bought this bike so im not sure what anit-freeze he has in it.
  2. WhatUsernameShouldIChoose

    How to stop overheating

    My bike likes to overheat when I'm going very slow, I'm sure it's not uncommon. When I'm in the trails and going faster, it's fine. Sometimes I just like to putt around my small set of trails I have at my house, and I don't get out of first gear. About an hour and a half later, my bike overheats and starts peeing coolant. Any way I can stop this? Or at least make it more resistant? And I can't go faster in my set of trails, there are 90 degree turns every 5 feet.
  3. Howxitxisx

    Engine ice?

    Does it help I am using antifreeze right now and my bike gets real hot in the tight stuff will engine ice help how about if I mix it with water?
  4. I have a rad guard on the left hand side but it has dawned on me that not much is protecting the coolant reservoir. Is there some line of protective bracket a available?
  5. More than you wanted to know about Liquid Engine Cooling Liquid cooling is an often overlooked part of an engine's operation. If it's not overheating then everything's good. The problem is that, when trouble does develop, the answers can be elusive. I'll come right out front by saying that I work at Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. and stand behind the properties of our waterless coolant. I'll tell you about it at the end, but first I'm going to cover some things that you should know if you choose to use a water-based anti-freeze. If you're sick of overheating, you can just skip ahead. Physics Pressure: A higher pressure will raise the boiling point of a liquid. A lower pressure will lower the boiling point. Water runs down hill. For us, it's more important to recognize that vapor wants to go up. This is why cooling systems (almost) always flow out of the bottom of the radiator, down to the pump and into the bottom of the engine. Vent lines are placed so that vapor can escape (from the pump, head, or elsewhere) and go up into the radiator. This direction of coolant flow naturally carries vapor up and out of the engine. Overheating happens when the coolant temperature reaches its failure (boiling) point. Sometimes it is said that when coolant starts spitting out, it's your warning that things are getting too hot. It's not a warning of a failure; it is the failure. Vapor shielding: As the anti-freeze begins to boil inside the cooling jacket, it forms vapor. Soon the vapor increases from a few bubbles to being a layer along the metal surface. This layer prevents liquid from contacting the metal and the metal is effectively insulated; it is no longer “liquid cooled.” The metal temperature spikes and hot spot detonation, seizure, and other engine damage are the result. Head gasket failure is due to head warping which is the result of uneven temperatures across the head. System Layout There are from 6 to 9 basic components depending on the particular layout of the cooling system: radiator(s), cap, overflow tank, hoses, hose clamps, thermostat, cooling jacket (inside engine), pump, and fan. Dirt bikes will lack some of these parts and complex street bikes can have more. Avoid Boiling the Coolant The goal of the system is to cool the engine, but that statement is too simple. The goal is to keep the metal temperatures under control and this can only happen if the liquid is in contact with the metal and carries the heat away. It is often recognized that a greater amount of heat is removed through the action of boiling, but this is only true until the bubbles formed grow big and displace the liquid coolant. If the metal is in contact with vapor, not liquid, the metal temperature cannot be controlled. Boiling coolant is to be avoided. There are two sides to improving the efficiency of your cooling system. One is maintenance and the other the choice of components. Maintenance Keep the outside surfaces of the radiator clean. Spray water through the fins from the back to clean out mud and grass. I never use a pressure washer on my bikes. Some teams put a mesh across the front of the radiators in muddy conditions. If the fins get bent, you can spend some time to straighten them out. Every little bit helps improve efficiency. Check the hoses. Obviously you are looking for cracks or bulges so they can be replaced before a failure. Keep in mind that an older hose can leak through the threads. The hose may look fine, but the coolant can get through the inside layer of rubber and then follow the threads out. Leaks don't always drip to the ground; look for a crusty streak, sometimes at the pump. Change your anti-freeze every year. After time, the corrosion inhibiting additives fall out of solution and settle out of the coolant; this is the sludge that collects at low points in the system. When this happens, the anti-freeze will continue to cool the engine as it did before, but there is much less corrosion protection. If left like this for too long, the corrosion that forms will insulate the metal surfaces from the coolant and this WILL decrease the cooling efficiency. This is why they suggest using a vinegar rinse to clean the system out. Diagnosing an overheating engine Radiator cap: Does the gasket seal? Any rips in it or dirt under it?Is the small disc on the underside free to move? This disc is the return valve that lets coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank when the engine cools. If the cap doesn't pressurize the system because it doesn't seal, the boiling point of the coolant will be lowered and overheating is the result. A leak elsewhere in the system can also cause a loss of pressure; at operating temperature, you should feel the pressure if you squeeze a hose. Thermostat: If it is stuck open, it may be hard to warm the engine up on a cold day.If it is stuck closed, the engine will run hot or overheat. You can test it by putting it in water and seeing if/when it opens as you heat it up. Thermostats have different temperature ratings. If it's a “190 thermostat” it should be open at 190F. Racers often remove the thermostat entirely to increase the flow rate of the coolant. Do not remove a bypass type thermostat unless you constrict or block the bypass line. There is a myth out there that if you remove the thermostat, the coolant will flow too quickly to shed the heat through the radiator. The radiator can dissipate heat just fine; in fact, it becomes more efficient with a greater liquid/air temperature difference. The myth originates from a real effect which is based on pressure. The thermostat (or restrictor that may be installed in its place) raises the pressure on the coolant in the engine as the pump pushes against it. This higher pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant inside the engine. Pump: Obviously, if the pump doesn't pump, you'll overheat. These days pump impellers are likely to be plastic. We've seen manufacturing problems where the impellers separate from the shaft; you could look at this impeller and not see that it's broken, but it would come off in your hand. We've also seen the blades snap off due to cavitation. Cavitation happens when a coolant is close to its boiling point. The “draw” side of the pump naturally has a lower pressure, and this can cause the fluid to vaporize. As the blades smack against this mix of vapor and liquid, they can wear or break. The pump is not designed to pump vapor so this cavitation also slows the coolant flow which will cause the temperature to rise. If the additives in the anti-freeze have fallen out of solution or you've been using straight water without a pump lube, the pump seal can fail leading to a bearing failure. Engine oil that looks creamy is telling you that there's water in it. If it's reddish brown like peanut butter, it's rusty water. Jetting: A lean fuel/air ratio will cause an engine to run hotter. An aftermarket pipe without proper jetting/fuel injection tuning will flow more air making the engine run leaner. A clogged jet can do the same. Changing things like cams, spark advance, and compression ratio can make an engine run hotter. Ethanol in the fuel will burn leaner. Look for a possible air leak in the boot between the carburetor and head. Altitude: It's not just that the air is less dense at altitude, but the lowered ambient pressure also has an effect. The radiator cap will pressurize the system to, say, 13 psi *over the atmospheric pressure*. A lower atmospheric pressure will lower the internal system pressure. You or your friends: If you are riding slowly, there is less airflow to the radiator. If you get stuck or are waiting at a bottleneck, that problem is worse. Air Pocket: Air trapped in the system can interrupt coolant flow and cause overheating. Optimizing the System: Hoses: Silicone hoses are better quality in general and resist heat stress and age cracking. There are silicone hose kits available that eliminate the plastic Y connector. This connector has a smaller inside diameter than the hose, so it restricts the flow; get rid of it if you can. If you go to silicone hoses, spend a little more on the recommended hose clamps so that they don't cut into the silicone. Silicone hoses are more delicate in terms of impacts, so consider a guard in places where a rock may hit it. Radiators: There are a number of aftermarket radiator companies that make upgraded radiators. Generally they are bigger and/or deeper which adds fluid capacity and surface area to the system, both of which help lower coolant temperature. Whatever radiators you use, make sure they're clean inside and out. Radiator cap: A higher pressure rated cap will raise the boiling point of the coolant. Race teams sometimes take this to an extreme; I've seen auto racing teams that have an air valve on the cap so they can pressurize it with an air compressor. The FIA limited the allowed pressure in Formula One for safety reasons. I don't recommend raising the pressure more than just a few psi. Pump: There are some aftermarket pumps available. A better impeller will increase flow and an efficiently designed housing can reduce the flow restriction. Fan: There are fan kits available now for some dirt bikes; increasing air flow to the radiator will decrease the coolant temperature. Making sure the fan is operating correctly is important. There can be failures of the temperature sensor or fan switch. Some people like to install a manual switch so they can override the automatic operation. If there is a shroud around the fan or ducting that the manufacturer installed, make sure it remains as they intended. Anti-Freeze: Any coolant with water in it has the same basic properties because those properties are limited by water's characteristics. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. The boiling point is raised a little when it's mixed 50/50 with glycol, either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. The big increase in boiling point comes from pressurizing the system. Tap water is terrible stuff to use, but most of the anti-freeze for sale today is pre-mixed with clean water anyway. Many equipment manufacturers have guidelines on the anti-freeze to use such as “no phosphate or silicate based additives”. These additives can be gritty like sand and are bad for pump seals. Limitations of Water: Water is corrosive. Anti-freeze manufacturers use a number of different additive packages to fight this property, but they all settle out after time allowing the corrosion to occur. Some additives are bad for seals like silicates. Some additives, like the OAT type(organic acid technology) degrade silicone. Water conducts electricity. This electrolysis eats metal. You can buy “sacrificial” metal tablets to put in the system that will “absorb” the damage from electrolysis. Water's boiling point is too close to the operating temperature of the coolant. There is a very narrow safety margin and the anti-freeze will boil in specific locations before the system is observed to be overheating. The area around the exhaust valves is typically quite hot. When the anti-freeze boils here, a vapor layer forms that shields the metal surface from the liquid coolant. The metal temperature then spikes and detonation is the result. The engine will run poorly and lose power as the coolant temperature approaches its failure point. While the system pressure raises the boiling point, it also sets up a situation where a puncture will expel all the coolant. Hot anti-freeze will gush from an opened cap, but not because of the pressure that the cap regulates. When the cap is removed, the pressure drops which drops the boiling point in the system. It is the flash boiling that happens inside the engine that causes the gusher. Evans Waterless Coolant: Like I said at the top, I work at Evans, but I'm not just a paid promoter. I started using Evans waterless coolant while road racing in the 1990's when it was still legal for pavement racing. As I became more familiar with its properties, I put it in all my vehicles and started selling it at the track and online. Things grew to the point that my volume was getting noticed by the company. Years later, and here we are with a formula specifically designed for the powersports industry. I'd appreciate it if you'd let me tell you about the product that I believe should be in every performance machine out there. You wouldn't take the back off your watch and pour water in it; it's time to stop pouring water in your engine! The high boiling point of Evans means that the coolant temperature won't go above its failure point. It operates within the same temperature range as conventional anti-freeze and is able to stay in contact with metal surfaces, even at stressful points like around the exhaust valves. Pump cavitation is avoided, as is electrolysis. All of Evans' coolant formulas are non-corrosive and last the lifetime of the engine. If I'm rebuilding an engine, I will save the coolant and pour it back in the rebuilt engine. Evans Coolant doesn't freeze; we state that it will flow at -40F, but we have not found a freezing point. After lowering a sample to -60F without freezing, we decided to talk about its pour point like the oil industry does. Evans Coolant is a patented blend of chemicals, most of which are commonly found in conventional anti-freeze formulas, and additives with no water. It is not a gel and will not turn gooey if anti-freeze is added to it. If something were to happen on the trail and you are forced to add water or anti-freeze, it will simply perform like conventional anti-freeze, no worse. Information on the web about poor cold weather performance of Evans Coolant refers to our oldest formula. The current formulas are approved for all weather conditions and are mandated by Rotax for use in their 900 series aircraft engines. Evans Coolant has a high boiling point of 375F at atmospheric pressure. While it does not need pressure to raise its boiling point, we do not recommend modifying the system to hold zero pressure. It will expand 7% at operating temperature so you will notice some movement to the expansion tank, but it doesn't build pressure like water does. If you were to open the cap when hot, it shouldn't spurt out. A little might come out, like a tablespoon, but if more does, it is a sign that there is either water present or an air pocket in the system. The added safety margin of the high boiling point will save the engine when conditions become extreme. Through an unintentional error that cut air flow to the radiator, I saw the coolant temperature on my road race bike go to 297F. The bike was still running alright, so we changed the oil and fixed the cause of the problem. The engine ran fine for all the races that weekend and then all the races at the finals at Daytona. Evans Powersports Coolant is trusted by race teams around the world. I encourage you to go to our website www.evanscooling.com to learn more and see the interview with Jay Leno or stop by our Facebook page http://www.facebook....300949013264495 for a more personal interaction. When you hear about our Chinese business, you should know that we make the coolant in Pennsylvania and export it into China. Evans China has installed American made waterless coolant into more than 150,000 new passenger cars so far!
  6. nvrider

    KTM 250 XC-F (2011)

    0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  7. dirtman48

    Coolant coming out of bleed hole

    I just rebuilt my water pump and engine this winter. I ran 50/50 water and vinegar through the engine to flush coolant out. After doing this once I added new engine ice to the radiator. After ride for about 5 min I noticed coolant coming out of the bleed hole. all of the coolant went out of the bleed hole.
  8. Alright so i tried poking around to find a thread on this but couldnt find one.... Swear I saw one before or you'd think there would be. So the Coolant "Engine Ice"...The guy I bought my bike from had it in, and my brother just bought one who also had it in. It claims to be some good stuff... BUT i hear whole lots of horror stories about it, about how it has less lubricant in it and its really bad for your water pump, and that it heats up much faster when you're stationary. So I drained it, ran two loads of standard 50/50 prestone in it to wash out all the old crap, and use prestone 50/50 currently. what scares me is a little dripped on my driveway, and where it streamed down the cement it left these really hard black clump deposits here and there on the cement. sometimes see little black flakes floating around the radiator. IDK if its dirt or corrosion. So my question would be, For anyone with Engine ice experience, What do you think of it? And might I have a little Radiator issue or is this normal or should I flush it? Thanks a ton guys! NOTE: I already know the prestone is fine. Ran it in my last bikes and for all summer in this one. Bike is a 2008 YZ250F What coolant should I use if neither of these? Want my bike as cool & safe as possible
  9. Fast question. How and where do I check if I have the right coolant level?
  10. sactofisher

    Coolant in motor oil

    Hi All, I 'inherited' a 2004 DR-Z 400 from a friend and decided to change the coolant and oil before taking it out for a ride. When I went to drain the coolant, nothing came out except for a small amount of motor oil (issue #1). I flushed some water through and it came out clean, so I decided to add some new coolant. I put in the recommended amount, and yet I couldn't see anything in the radiator. I then decided to drain the engine oil and out came my missing coolant. I know that if you have a head gasket leak for example, the oil will be milky, but I assume this would be the case after running the bike, which I did not, Are there any thoughts on what could be causing the coolant to mix in with the oil without running the bike?
  11. This has been on a thread before but I wanted peoples thoughts on a bike already built with an overflow such as a WR450. I couldn't find much tested data of actual temp changes/improvments at idle or on the move. Has anyone out there done any testing on their own? I see more of a benefit for bikes without an overflow due to fluid loss from puking it out. Thanks, K
  12. Hey guys i do a lot of mountain single track and im having a hard time keeping this thing cool,i have oversized radiators, running enige ice??? any body try the boyesen supercooler water pump?? or maybe hook a fan up!!any help would be awsome.....
  13. Hey Guys, I'm fairly new to dirt bikes and since owning my 2012 WR 450 I've had overheating issues. Coolant boiling over and steam/fluid pouring out the discharge tubes. I removed the pea shooter, changed rad fluid to Coolanl. This didn't help at all. 90% of my riding is slow technical mountain trails in the Alberta Rockies. 1. I have a GYTR Competion ECU on order, will changing the mapping help it run cooler? 2. Is putting a FMF Q4 muffler going to help run cooler? 3. Adding fans is becoming a pain in my butt: Would appreciate some pics & details on someone whose done fan setup. 4. What is the best and most economical temperature sensor or computer a guy can install? I need the biggest bang for my buck cooling upgrade, hopefully it also fairly simple for a newbie to do. Thanks in advance. Cheers Russ
  14. Bryan Bosch

    Radiator Coolant Basic Maintenance

    There are tons of threads on ThumperTalk about oil changes, but far fewer on radiator fluid. Because of this, I thought that this would be a good topic to cover. At a minimum, radiator fluid should be changed once per year. If you race, at least twice a year. When you do this, it's a good idea to flush the system with white vinegar and distilled water (50/50 ratio). After you've drained the old coolant, fill it up with the vinegar/water solution, run your engine until warm. Drop the solution and fill with clean water to flush the system. Drain the water and fill to the correct level with your favorite coolant. Do not overfill. The acid in the vinegar does a good job of cleaning out the old coolant and contaminants but will not harm engine seals. In terms of coolant, there are lots of choices and you can't go wrong using what your manual recommends. Most coolants are ethylene glycol based, so make sure to dispose of it where your pets (and young kids) aren't exposed to it. Because it's sweet smelling and tasting to them, they'll drink it and if they ingest enough, dead puppy or kitty. I personally use Engine Ice. It's propylene glycol based, making it much less toxic to humans, animals plants, etc... and it's premixed with distilled water, ready to run with freeze protection down to -26 and a boiling point of +256. If you live where winters are cold and you choose not use a premixed coolant/antifreeze, be sure to check the mixture with a hydrometer. You can get them for cheap at just about any auto parts store. You simply suck up some fluid, count how many balls float and cross reference the number of the freeze protection chart. Also, the specific gravity of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are not the same, so make sure that you use the correct hydrometer. For example, Engine Ice claims freeze protection to -26, but an ethylene glycol specific hydrometer will read only to +20. Not a problem per se in this example (you'd still be well protected), but the other way around could be trouble. I've found that some hydrometers just don't specifically say what coolant they are for. However, most are for the more traditional ethylene glycol. Hopefully this is of value to some and I've always had excellent results following these practices. May winter come late and that you log lots of happy, trouble-free miles.
  15. 2grimjim

    Coolant 411

    Just added an Athena 300 kit on my 2016 Yamaha YZ250X, and after draining the stock blue colored coolant, what drained out wasn't nearly enough to refill with the 300 top end. So.... this is what lead to my quest about coolant color coding, types, and compatibility. When I worked as a Yamaha/Suzuki/Polaris service tech, It never really crossed my mind. The coolant that Yamaha and Suzuki were sometimes blue, sometimes pink, and sometimes yellow. Polaris was (is) always looked like the same green stuff sold at auto parts stores. But, the service replacement coolant sold by Yamaha and Suzuki were always Green. When I asked our Yamaha and Suzuki Service Representatives what the difference was between the OEM and the replacement green coolants, the both had the same reply: "Coolant should be replaced every 2 years. If the coolant is low, advise your customers to drain and flush the cooling system and replace the coolant with what you stock on your shelf." Hmmm.... Ok. Still didn't answer my question, but I'll just do what the man says. Turns out there are significant differences between coolant types. Most of the changes have been made in the last 20 years but prior to that, you had one choice. The green stuff. Now, as of today, you have 3 general classes of coolant (excluding running straight water or waterless coolant). They are as follows: Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Inorganic Acid Technology IAT is what we all know as the classic green coolant that has been around for ages. It is a mixture of either Ethylene Glycol (toxic) or Propylene Glycol (non-toxic, the same stuff in your Mio), and corrosion inhibitors containing phosphate and silicate acids. Now, before I go any further, I'm going to clarify what exactly "Silicates" are. Silicates are not the same as Silica. I've read a ton of nonsense about coolants containing Silica and it being used to "scrub the insides" of your engine. This is a bunch of B.S. Coolants have never contained Silica. Silicon is an element (like Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Carbon). In its pure form, it's used to make chips for electronic circuits. Silica is Silicon Oxide (SiO2). It's the mineral Quartz and the largest component of beach sand. Silica is not soluble in water. Silicone is a synthetic rubber that replaces Carbon with Silicon. Silicate(s) are an anionic Silicon compound. Various types of Silicates are water soluble compounds that are acidic, hence their use as a corrosion inhibitor in coolants. There is endless (incorrect) writings about how Japanese manufacturers don't use coolants with Silicates because the Silicates will grind up water pump seals. Nonsense. Japanese manufacturers don't use Silicates because they believe that Silicate compounds are too chemically aggressive and given the right conditions, will cause excessive pitting in the areas of highest heat (near the exhaust ports). Phosphate and Silicate corrosion inhibitors in green coolant are considered 'fast acting'. They provide a nearly instantaneous barrier to the bare metal internal surfaces but are consumed quickly in this process. IAT coolants must be replaced every 2 years. After 2 years, the coolant my still have it's boil-over and freeze protection, but it's ability to prevent corrosion is gone. IAT coolants are NOT sold as 'long life' coolants. In order to be considered 'long life', the coolant needs to have a corrosion inhibitor package good for 5 years. There are 'low Silicate' and 'Silicate free' brands of coolants available the appease the Japanese manufacturers. Just as there are 'Phosphate free' brands for European brands (Zerex G05 is a Phosphate free HOAT coolant). Low Silicate types are usually sold as 'universal coolants' and advertised that they can be mixed with any type coolant (but they reduce the lifespan of any long life coolant to 2 years) Zerex makes an "Asian Formula", coolant that contains Phosphates but no Silicates. It is available in Red and Blue. The formulation is the same for both, there's just a choice of colors for the anal compulsive. Organic Acid Technology OAT coolants started life with GM's Dexcool in 1996. They are usually orange. As fo 2013, both GM and Ford use Dexcool. OAT coolants do not use Silicates, Phosphates, Borates, Nitrates, Nitrites, or any other type of fast acting, agressive corrosion inhibitor. The ingredients are proprietary. The advantage with OAT coolants is they offer protection against corrosion for 5 years. However there is a problem with Dexcool and GM was sued over it. The brilliant engineers at GM did not test the Dexcool additives for compatibility with the Nylon 66 used in for the intake manifold gaskets used in most everything they built. Given the right conditions, the Dexcool would soften the Nylon and create a coolant leak into the intake ports. OAT (Dexcool) coolants should NEVER be used where the manufacturer didn't use it from the factory. GM allegedly changed the specification for Dexcool after they were sued, but the potential still exists for incompatibility with certain elastomers used in gaskets, seals and o-rings. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology HOAT coolants were a response by manufacturers other than GM that wanted the long life coolant but were concerned about protecting against corrosion while using a less aggressive OAT component. The HOAT coolants used by manufacturers used organic acid inhibitors that were less susceptible to attacking plastics and rubbers but were not as effective at providing initial corrosion protection. All HOAT coolants add some inorganic acid compounds to make up the difference. Ford switched to a HOAT specification between 2003 and 2004 model years without any changes to cooling system components, gaskets or seals. Zerex G05 is a HOAT coolant that contains some Silicates. HOAT specifications for most Asian manufacturers will contain Phosphates but not Silicates, HOAT spec for most European manufacturers will have Silicates but no Phosphates. European manufacturers do not like to use Phosphates because of hard water issues in Europe. The Phosphate corrosion inhibitors will react with hard water and cause precipitates (coolant sludge). Many Industrial, commercial, and heavy duty diesel manufacturers specify HOAT with Borates, Molybdates, Nitrates, or Nitrites to combat cylinder liner cavitation pitting. All coolants advertised as 'Long Life' will be either OAT or HOAT formulations. Now, what does all this business mean with my dirt bike? The color, unless it's orange or green, color is pretty meaningless. Japanese no-Silicate coolant can be pink, blue, or red. There are several universal coolants (Prestone makes one) on the market that will work with any coolant type if you are worried about topping off your OEM factory fill. Japanese manufacturers in general specify a coolant type with little or no Silicates. European Manufacturers in general specify a coolant type containing no Phosphates. No European or Japanese manufacturer recommends the use of Dexcool or a straight OAT type coolant. And Honda and Toyota specifically prohibits Dexcool in any of their vehicles. As far as Polaris, and Arctic Cat (I know, not motorcycles), you are probably safe with any green coolant. But knowing how most ATV's and UTV's are used, a universal long life would probably be a better choice. Universal long life coolants are usually a HOAT type. So, how do I know if my coolant corrosion inhibitors are depleted? If you replace your coolant every 2 years, you don't need to worry about it. But, if you must know, there are 2 tests you can do to check if the corrosion inhibitors are still working. The 1st test is to use a voltmeter. Remove the radiator cap, place the ground probe on the frame (or battery ground cable if you have one), and the positive lead inside the radiator immersed in coolant but not touching the radiator, and observe the voltage. It should be less than 0.3V (300mV). I'm not 100% convinced that this test is an accurate indication. My preference is to use wide range pH test strips. Old school coolant can range between 10.5 and 14. Newer long-life coolants will be between 8 and 10.5. In all cases, if the pH is anywhere near 7 (or below), the corrosion inhibitors are dead. What about Redline Water Wetter, Maxima Coolinol and Cool-Aid, Engine Ice, and Evans waterless? A water-only option without any corrosion inhibitors is just plain stupid. Even distilled water will cause corrosion in a short period of time. Hard water will cause corrosion damage very quickly. Even running straight water with a corrosion inhibitor additive (Redline Water Wetter, Maxima Cool-Aid) won't do much in the way of keeping your engine cooler. How cool the engine runs is determined by the heat rejection rate of the radiator as well as the coolant type. Pure water may have a higher capacity to carry heat, but the radiator can only get rid of that extra heat load at a certain rate. That rate is determined by the radiant area, the difference in temperature between the ambient air passing through the radiator and the coolant inside, and how fast the coolant is traveling through the radiator. Running straight water will require the water flow slower through radiator to allow for the extra BTU energy to be rejected, but slowing the rate through the radiator is going to mean the rate will be slower through the engine. And this will raise the temperature of the water even higher. A run away is then in effect. Most stock cooling systems have enough reserve cooling capacity that this isn't a big problem or even noticeable, but it lowers the threshold where boil-over occurs. Waterless coolants have the same heat rejection issue but for a different reason. Pure ethylene glycol doesn't have the heat capacity of water and since the rate of heat transfer is slower to the coolant, the engine temperature raises. And because the waterless coolant rejects less heat to the radiator, it doesn't cool as much. Operating temps 20+ above what most dirt bikes are designed for is going to cause issues with detonation, oil cook-off, seal life, clutch life, and who knows what else. There is one scary aspect of waterless coolant: it doesn't boil until 385 degrees F. You will pretty much destroy your engine if you manage to bring the temp up to 385 degrees. Having a water based cooling system on a dirt bike is like having a temperature gauge. When the coolant boils and clouds of steam start rolling out the overflow, its telling you to shut the bike down. No warning like that with Evans. Just a seized motor. Manufacturers do a pretty good job of sizing the cooling systems on modern dirt bikes so any playing around with straight water or waterless coolant is going to push things out of balance. 50/50 water/ethylene glycol is what they are designed for and that's what I use. One last note. I've stopped using all of the motorsports industry brand coolants. I think all of them are OK if you change the coolant several times a year, but I'm pretty sure they are all lacking to varying degrees on the amount and quality of corrosion inhibitors blended in them. I've been pretty disappointed on the lack of corrosion control with all of them. Oh, and I settled Zerex Asian Formula (Silicates free) coolant on my Yamaha. With a 21psi cap, not a hint of overheating on a 90 degree day crawling up slow, steep rocky trails.
  16. Alright, first time posting on here so about a month ago I bought a 2003 yz250f with "a bad head gasket", he showed me the oil he drained from it there was coolant in it so it made sense he said he was riding it and it started shooting coolant out of the overflow and smoking so I bought the bike for 400$. When ive went riding with him it has always ran really good, So I ordered a cometic top end gasket kit I tore down the engine and piston, rings, and the cylinder wall all looked good so I didn't replace any of that Also the head gasket looked good and I took the head to my uncles machine shop and had it milled down its withing .002" everything in the engine looked good to me although im not a mechanic! So I put everything back together and replaced the coolant cap oil filter and it wont start, its really hard to kick. timing is perfect I did a quick valve measurement .08mm I think it was. so I don't know why it wont start it has fuel spark and compression to my knowledge any help would be appreciated thanks!
  17. teddy montana

    Jet kit question

    I have 09 450 exc. I wanna do the jd jet kit and punch the exhaust. Do u need to have a fan kit to do these mods? Or can I do the jet kit without a fan? I'm running engine ice. Thanks
  18. redwheeliemonster

    Overheating ktms

    So I have seen a number of topics of ktm 2strokes overheating or losing coolant. As well as have a couple of friends who have had heat issues and are considering fans. I ran my cr250 for 2 hard years and didn't lose a drop. So do these bikes have malfunctioning parts or design flaws.
  19. For many of our readers who don’t live in a temperate climate, spring means it’s time to get your treasured machine out of its hiding place and get ready for the riding season ahead. High performance off-road machinery hates to sit…and when it does, all kinds of bad things can happen. “If I have to choose between opportunity and preparation, I’d choose preparation, without it opportunity is useless.” -- Saji Ijiyemi So where should you start? We’ve reached out to our off-road experts, riders and racers who have spent years figuring out how to be best prepared when hitting the road (or dirt) after an extended period of downtime…and we’ve tried to put it all together here for you. Don’t forget that a great source of knowledge of all things dirt is available on ThumperTalk.com WHEN WINTER COMES When storing your prized machine, a good offense is always the best defense. There are a number of steps you can take prior to retiring your steed to hibernation, and these simple items can make all the difference when warmer weather shows up. WHEN GOOD FUEL GOES BAD Gasoline and stabilizers: There seem to be two schools of thought on how to best approach this. One is to drain the tank and carb of fuel and “put her up dry”…but we’ve seen issues where the last bit of fuel doesn’t evaporate completely and leaves that dreaded gummy residue that equals death to carburetors and fuel injection components, so we don’t recommend this approach. A better way to store fuel in your machine is to fill the tank with fresh fuel, adding fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer or Star Tron Fuel Treatment and run the machine until you are sure that the now stabilized fuel has run through the system, at least a few minutes. Then top up any remaining space in the tank with fresh fuel and stand the bike upright. When spring arrives, drain fuel, fill with fresh gas and go…although we’ve ridden out the tank of stabilized fuel with no issues more than once. Two strokes and four strokes: Are fuel stabilizers used for both two and four strokes? Yes. And if gasoline with ethanol is in your bike, use the blue-colored Marine Formula Sta-Bil. It's formulated to prevent phase separation. YOUR BATTERY: IS IT READY? Intelligent chargers: Batteries don’t seem to like being off their charging cycle and this is especially true of the old lead acid batteries. The new type lightweight Lithium Ion units also like to stay at peak capacity and as such using an intelligent trickle charger such as the Battery Tender or similar unit has always been the way to go when it comes to our rides because it keeps it in the best health and tells it when it’s time for replacement. First, we remove the batteries from the bikes and put them on a wood surface on our bench, we don’t leave batteries in the bikes in case of any leakage while charging from the lead acid units. We have multiple batteries here…and for that we like to use the Battery Tender Four Bank System and we’ve also heard good things about the cheaper PulseTech QuadLink which gives you the ability to charge four batteries at once with your 6-volt or 12-volt battery charger, regardless of the brand. It’s also simple to just alternate the leads every week between batteries. Even the singular units have a visual indicator as to how the battery health is so it’s easy to spot one that’s going bad during the charging cycles. Now let’s look at items you should inspect before the season starts. FLUIDS: DO YOU NEED CHANGE THEM? Engine oil, brake fluid, etc. Do they “go bad” or expire during the off-season? After some research we’ve come to some findings: Engine oil: As long as it’s fairly clean, engine oil should have no issues when sitting for six months. But dirty engine oil contains lots of contaminants, from blow by and leaky seals, gasoline contamination, etc. and these can work breaking down items like clutch plates and seals given enough time, so if it’s not clean and clear, replace it. Brake fluid: Brake fluid also degrades over time when in use, so change it. Moisture in your brake fluid enters through seals and the master cylinder cover…that’s why there’s that window there, so you don’t have to keep opening (and contaminating) the fluid inside. Remember that brake fluid attracts water and given the chance it will become unstable and lack the heat resistance required to effectively stop you in the shortest distance, as well as corroding everything it comes into contact with. There are a myriad of devices available to test brake fluid for contaminants, and we’ve seen everything from cheap ($8) test strips to LED testers ($20) and even bench mounted tester that go for up to $500. We’ve only used the cheap strips and we find them to be fairly effective when coupled with a keen eye. Radiator fluid: Radiator fluid does break down and it's anti-corrosive and cooling properties become wholly ineffective over time as well. Most brands have a schedule that the manufacturer uses to determine when to replace it. We follow this in our bikes but we also do a visual inspection to be sure that the coolant is worthy of usage. It’s pretty simple…does it look the same as when it was put in? It the radiator still full as when you topped it off last? Does it look like it came on a spaceship from Mars with the bright green hue? Dirty, contaminated radiator fluid can point to upcoming, more serious engine issues…if you notice any dark colors or residue in the coolant these could point to a failing head gasket or seal. Basically, if it doesn’t appear fresh and clean, change it and then keep an eye on it. WHEELS & TIRES: VISUAL INSPECTION IS NECESSARY! Spokes: Spokes play a vital role in your wheel setup but are many times overlooked during the maintenance of our machines. You should do a visual inspection of the spokes, looking for bent and/or broken spokes. Obviously broken spoke(s) require immediate replacement. Bent spokes are a judgment call, as long as they can be tightened correctly and without hassle. To make sure your spokes are at the correct torque to support the wheel structure, you must use a spoke wrench such as the ones made by Motion Pro or Fasst Co. and spokes must be tightened in a specific order and each tool comes with detailed instructions for this procedure, follow it religiously for best results. Rim locks: Off road bike’s rim locks can work their way loose during the riding season and once they do, they’ll flatten your tire quickly. And usually this will be at worst time, such as in the big race! Normally, you can tell how the rim lock is aligned and whether it’s tight by simply insuring that the stud for the rim lock appears straight and is exiting the rim, pointing directly at the wheel axle and the nut is on the stem. If it isn’t, it’s best to let all the air out of the tube and (very gently) move the rim lock and stud assembly back to the optimal position. The hardest part is repositioning the rim strip back over the rim lock, so good luck with that. Screw the valve stem nut all the way and fill the tube, and repeat two or three times to insure the tube is seated and tighten the rim lock so it's snug but not tight. Do not tighten the valve stem nut…just back it up against the stem cap and keep an eye on it to see if the tire/tube is slipping on the rim. Dry rot: If you have been storing your bike for an extended period of time, especially off the stand, it’s best to do a visual inspection of your tires. Were they old when you mounted them? Vintage bike and vintage tires? Better check the sidewall, especially where it meets the rim for any cracking or blistering. Either of these two conditions would necessitate replacement. BRAKES, BEARINGS AND DRIVETRAIN: EVERYTHING IN SPEC? Disc Brakes: These are fairly easy to visually inspect for pad wear and as pads are so cheap, if I see any significant wear before the season starts, I’ll replace them just so I’ve got that added bite when competing. You should also inspect the brake alignment pins for corrosion and replace as needed. Drum brakes: With drum brakes, the signs of wear can be deceiving, as you can’t actually see the brake shoes. Some bikes have a wear indicator that has a pointer on the hub which shows a “wear range” but we’ve never found these to be very accurate. Better to take the wheel off and take a look…it’s easy to see how worn they are and you can use calipers to determine shoe thickness. Wheel bearings: Wheel bearings wear out, and when they do it can be ugly, so just put your bike up on a stand and rotate the wheels by hand. Is there any side to side play? Doesn’t spin freely? Clunking noises? Then wheel bearings may be an issue. With the sealed types, replacement is your only option but with non sealed bearings you can try removing, cleaning and re-greasing them. Make sure you inspect them for any obvious pitting, cracking or uneven wear…but if they still look good, they may have just been dirty. Drivetrain: Your sprockets and chain take a lot of abuse when out riding because sand, dirt and water all conspire to shorten the life of a chain and sprocket set, no matter how tough. Drivetrain setups including sprockets and chain are inexpensive (about $100) and are easy and quick to replace. First off, take a look at your sprockets…how are the bolts, are they all tight and at the correct torque spec? Are the teeth all there and are they sharp and exhibit no hooking? How is the chain…is there a lot of play, is it getting to the limits of the chain adjustments, is it noisy or does it slap when landing from jumps? These are all signs of excessive chain and/or sprocket wear and a sprocket or chain failure can lead to a hospital visit – and if the chain gets wrapped up in the engine case, it can lead to a cracked case (as happened to this author on my KTM)…and this is big money to fix. So don’t do what I did…make sure to replace these worn driveline components before they fail and endanger you and possibly others around you. REEDS & VALVES: INSPECT, ADJUST OR REPLACE? Reeds: If you ride a two stroke, you should visually inspect your reed valves as they tend to crack/chip over time. This will make your machine hard to start and stay idling, so best to make sure they are good. These chips and cracks can be very small and sometimes hard to see so look carefully, especially in the corners. The fingers of the reed valve should snap shut with authority when lifted and released, if not they probably need replacing. Valves: If you ride a four stroke, you should take some time at least once a season to inspect the clearances on your intake and exhaust valves. Excessive play in valves can wreak havoc on a well-running engine, making it hard to start and idle as well as reducing power and because the valves open/close with such frequency, the valves and seats in the cylinder head wear out…causing the valves to loosen up into the head, and this adversely affects your engine. You can correct these tolerances by using shims to offset variances in the valve train. Most bikes are different and you must consult the owner’s manual for your specific bike’s valve checking procedure, tolerances involved, tools and parts required. This can be a long and involved (as well as costly) inspection/replacement procedure so it is often overlooked by casual enthusiasts. BREATHE EASY: EXHAUST INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE Exhaust canister and packing material: Exhausts on off-road bikes are fairly simple, whether two stroke or four and most maintenance of the exhaust is centered on the “muffler” or “silencer” portion of the unit. Inside most silencers is a disposable packing (baffle) material that helps re-route and quiet exhaust gases, and this material can be replaced. Packing material for exhausts is quite cheap, and not replacing this material can lead to issues such as bad idle, hard starting and excessive noise. To inspect your exhaust for baffle issues, it’s best to remove the rivets and replace when required, depending on how many hours the machine is operating. Signs of needing replacement include excessive noise and pieces of baffle material leaving (being blown out) the canister. You’ll have a good idea when it’s time, and keeping the noise down in our sport is a positive thing! CABLES: STRETCHED TO THE LIMIT? Control Cables: Cables are one of those items that are fairly simple and inexpensive to replace, but many riders don’t bother to address their condition until they fail. And when they fail you can really get stranded, so it’s best to visually inspect your clutch and brake cables prior to the season beginning and take corrective action where necessary. Most cables wear points are at the entry and exit/pivot points along its route, so first check where the cables are adjusted and whether they have free play as recommended in the owner’s manual. Now work the cables via your levers and check to see that the pull (and release) are smooth and consistent. Any undue play or added tension in the pull are cause for concern as throttle cables for example, can stick and cause a major catastrophe. Control cables are a high wear item and should be lubricated regularly using a cable lube device. Cables are relatively inexpensive and you should replace your cables when any visible wear/binding/bending/kinking is observed. UNDER PRESSURE: ENGINE COMPRESSION TESTING This is a maintenance item that when done regularly, can give you a good idea of how much and how fast your piston/rings and compression chamber components are wearing out. If your combustion chamber compression is not at least 100 PSI, your engine is in need of attention and saving it now before it grenades can save you lots of your hard earned money. Most engine builders are looking for a reading of 125 PSI to as high as 180 PSI as indication of a healthy compression. If the compression is reading low, it could be a sign of things like worn rings or valves/valve seats or even a bad head gasket! The testing is fairly easy, and you’ll need an engine compression tester and these range in cost from $25-$500 depending on complexity and brand. Make sure that the included adaptors contain the size your bike requires (same as spark plug size, usually 12, 14 or 18mm). Here is the basic drill: Disconnect the ignition Remove spark plug Screw in tester Open throttle Rotate kick start Take reading If you get a low reading, you’ll have more homework to do…is it leaky valves, or maybe bad rings? Using a leakdown tester can add more to the mix by telling you exactly how much loss you have and potentially the cause. THE FINAL WORD: In conclusion, preparing your bike by following the procedures above will significantly increase your chance of more seat time and less time fixing things. Items like the compression testing can indicate upcoming engine component failure quickly and inexpensively. Lower cost items like brake components and control cables are vital to get you home after a day on the trails and should be replaced whenever they require. A little homework up front can keep you from staying after class in moto-school.
  20. jclark15

    01 rm250 coolant problem

    Hey tt guys I'm new to the forum and also to the world of rm's. I just bought a really clean 01 rm250 and the thing runs like an animal but the one thing I don't understand is the radiators. When I looked in the radiator to see the fluid it was like 1/2 under the top of the veins so I added some till it was at normal level but when I started the bike it puked all the fluid I just put in. And it wasn't after heat built up it was as soon as I started the bike. Don't really know what's going on. Any help is much appreciated
  21. I was just wondering what everyone's take is on the subject was. Having both, the only issue I've come across with my liquid cooled bikes are having enough air flow to keep it cool. For example, I like riding rock trails. You don't get too much air flow there, and once I'm out of it, I find a nice long stretch to open up and get the flow going again, but it makes me wonder at times if my bike will seize. With air cooled, well you still need air flow, but there's been times in the desert at 105 degree temps that I've often looked down at my motor and see waves of heat coming off it that also made me wonder how much more it could take.
×