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Found 224 results

  1. For Many of the CRF electric owners or anyone who has used the X model taillight, it has probably gone out on you. Well I have an easy fix to save the cost of a new one just by replacing the resistor's in the lights. By my judgement, Honda used two 100 ohm resistors to create the necessary resistance which is about 20 ohms too little by calculations. They would burn out and make the light useless. I have an easy, inexpensive fix for about 5 dollars, and if your LED's are still good it's only about 1 dollar. There are two ways to do this, one is two go with the stock system with 2 100ohm resistors, or you can just use 1 220ohm resistor. If you do the stock system you will need four 100 ohm 1/8 watt resistors. If you do the other choice you need two 220 ohm resistors. What You Will Need: All of these parts you can get at RadioShack which is the only place I know of to get stuff like this 1) 4 White LED's 3.3V 25mA (If LED's still work you won't need them 2) Option A) 4 100ohm 1/8watt resistors Option 👍 2 220ohm 1/4watt resistors 3)Utility Knife 4)Soldering Iron 5)Rosin Core Solder 6)Philips Screw Driver 1) Here are the resistors and LED's you can buy from radioshack. Choose which way you want to go with on the resistor's and you'll buy just those. Each pack of resistor's is only 99 cents and the LED's are 2 dollars for a pack of 2. 2) Set your Light out on your work area. You will want to remove the terminals from the clip and slide the protective tubing down or completely off of the wires. Take a utility knife and not going anymore than about 1/8" down seperate the black pastic from the clear red lens. It's not going to pop off just by cutting it because there is a lip that goes into the housing. 3) Hopefully you can do this step without breaking the plastic. I had no problems and hopefully you won't either. Take a couple pair of pliers (preferably crescent wrenches) and position them about how I have them. Pry one pair of pliers in a scissors action and hopefully you can separate the two pieces. 4) Now the pieces are separated. You can see the lip I was talking about. Hopefully you were able to make it to this step with no breaking. 5) Now remove the two screws that hold the board onto the housing. 6) As You can see the two resistor's are burnt to a crisp. There's also melted plastic pegs that they use to help hold the board down even more. You will need to break the board away from the housing. 7) Take a screwdriver and pry the board up to break the board away from the housing but don't break anything. Using your soldering iron to melt the plastic and then pry it off might be a safer way. 8) Now pull the board away and pull the wires thru the grommet to get yourself some more room to work with. 9) Here's the back of the board. If you look closely you can see how the routing goes. It uses two series, using two LED's in a series. The positive volts goes in thru the diode (the black device in the very middle of the board) thru one LED to the next LED than thru the resistor's and to the ground. If anyone wants a good drawing of the routing just ask and I'll get one. 10) Now take your soldering iron and start removing the resistor's. Heat up the solder on one side and use needle nose pliers to work it free. 11) Make sure you pay attention to how the LED's are sitting in the board. You want to install the new one's in the same direction. 12) Here's everything out on one side. I recommend doing one side so you don't mess up how the LED's are sitting in the board. 13) I'm using the single 220 ohm resistor so my replacement will be different. If you do the double 100 ohm resistor's just install them just how they were originally 14) Get the solder hot enough and mess with a bit to get the holes to open back up. This will be much easier than trying to heat up the solder and push the resistor and LED through while keeping the solder warm. 15) Here's the one new LED and the 220ohm resistor installed. Since I'm using the larger resistor you will need to leave enough wire so you can twist it enough to be just as wide as the board. If it sticks out further than the board then it will hit the lens when you reassemble it. 16) Here's two new LED's Installed on one side and the resistor. 17) I hooked up the wire's to a power source and TADA!!!! It has lights!!! 18) Finish up the other side and now you should have all four lights working 19) Pull the wire's back through the grommet and screw the board back into the housing. You can try to melt the plastic pins back to the board if possible but probably not necessary. If you did a nice clean job it should look just like it's factory. 20) Like I said make sure if the resistor isn't wider than the board so it will clear the lens. 21) Super glue the lens back on. The lens has a slight curve to it so it has only one way to go back on so it's hard to get it back together wrong. Use rubber bands to hold it together or some sort of clamps that won't break it. Once your done it should look good as new.
  2. I found a very simple way to change your X model CRF from headlight to number plate for those who want to zip it around the track. Once the plate is made it takes about 3 minutes to switch one for the other. It is very simple all you need are 2 1 inch L brackets 2 small carriage bolts 2 washers existing hardware for headlight mount simply bolt the L brackets on to the stock triple clamp with your existing mounting hardware Hold new #plate in position desired ( I found a WR426 works perfect) and mark dots on plate through the holes in the L bracket with sharpie or marker.. drill small holes in plate where you marked them for drilling remove mounting hardware and L brackets from clamp insert threaded end of carriage bolts through the front of the plate attach L brackets with washer and nuts and tighten just snug hold plate in position line up L brackets with triple clamp mount and bolt onto bike tighten carriage bolts from front of plate with screwdriver now all you have to switch anytime you want is remove and install to mounting bolts from your top clamp takes about 15 minutes to make plate and about 3 to switch back and forth to ride your chosen condition of track or trail. below is a picture of the finished product. Looks nice I think.
  3. How to: CRF250R front number plate on your 250X This is a UFO brand front number plate. I’m guessing that this plate is a little different than the other plates out there. The 1st step that I took is to cut off the large center tab. I used my dremel drill and took my time to make sure the finished product looked nice. Here are my pictures 2nd step that I took was to apply heavy duty Velcro to the sides of the new number plate. The 3rd step was to drill holes in to the two tabs on the top of the number plate I used a 1/8” drill bit and made the hole oblong. The 4th step was I took my light hook up and wrapped it up with plumbers tape to protect it and then used duct tape to secure it, and I placed heavy duty Velcro on the sides of the lower triple clamp. The 5th step was to place the number plate on the bike. Make sure you fish the long tab on the top under the break line 1st. Then place it on the Velcro. Next I attached the top holes that I made in the number plate to the holes for the bolts for the head light number plate with zip ties. Don’t tighten them up at this point just get them started. Next step I slowly started tightening the zip ties from one side to the other. Take is slow and step back from time to time to make sure the plate is level and square. Then after you’ve got it tight cut off the tails. Then she’s done.
  4. 0 comments

    Nice used bike I found in CT. My son loves it compared to riding my CR125 in the woods lol
  5. 0 comments

    2016 Honda CRF 250X VIN: JH2ME1116GK900133 condition: excellent engine displacement (CC): 250 fuel: gas odometer: 230 paint color: red title status: clean transmission: manual Very low hours/miles. Includes Vapor onboard computer, rpm, temp, hours, odo, etc. (replaced OEM odometer), acerbis hand protectors, aluminum engine and skid plates. Carb rejetted with JD jetting kit and airbox has been opened - much cooler than stock setup. Green Sticker valid until into 2019
  6. overload

    Honda CRF250X (2008)

    1 comment

    Lowered 1.5" and sprung for my weight. Flatlands radiator guards, Hammerhead Case Saver, Trail Tech stator, JD jetting, Twin Air filter, Trail Tech Striker, Trail Tech radiator fan, Cyclops H6 LED bulb, headlight on/off/high/low switch. Recently added a Flatlands skid plate and Cycra Ultra Probend handguards.
  7. 1 review

    SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE Engine Type: 249cc liquid-cooled single-cylinder four-stroke Bore And Stroke: 78mm x 52.2mm Ignition: Keihin® 37mm flat-slide carburetor with Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Ignition: CD with electronic advance and lighting coil Compression Ratio: 12.9:1 Valve Train: Unicam®, four-valve; 31mm intake valve, 26mm exhaust valve Starting: Electric and Kick DRIVE TRAIN Transmission: Wide-ratio five-speed Final Drive: #520 T-ring-sealed chain; 14T/53T CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES Front Suspension: 47mm inverted Showa® cartridge fork with 16-position rebound- and 16-position compression-damping adjustability; 12.4-inches travel Rear Suspension: Pro-Link® Showa® single shock with spring-preload, 17-position rebound-damping adjustability, and compression damping adjustment separated into low-speed (13 positions) and high-speed (3.5 turns); 12.4 inches travel Front Brake: Single 240mm disc with twin-piston caliper Rear Brake: Single 240mm disc Front Tire: 80/100-21 Rear Tire: 100/100-18 DIMENSIONS Rake: 27.54° (Caster Angle) Trail: 118mm (4.7 inches) Wheelbase: 58.3 inches Seat Height: 37.7 inches Curb Weight: 254 pounds (includes all standard equipment, required fluids and a full tank of fuel-ready to ride) Fuel Capacity: 1.9 gallons Ground Clearance: 13.6 inches OTHER Model Id: CRF250X Emissions: Meets current California Air Resource Board (CARB) and EPA off-road emissions standards. Available Colors: Red
  8. 3 reviews

    SPECIFICATIONS Year: 2015 Manufacturer: Honda Model: CRF250R Engine Type: Single-cylinder, four-stroke Engine Displacement: 249cc Bore & Stroke: 76.8 mm x 53.8 mm Compression Ratio: 13.5:1 Cooling: Liquid-Cooled Fuel System: Dual-Timing Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI), 46mm throttle body Ignition: Full transistor with electronic advance Starting System: Electronic Transmission: Close-ratio five-speed Final Drive: #520 Chain; 13T/49T Rake and Trail: 27° / 4.6 in. Wheel Base: 58.6 in. Seat Height: 37.4 in. Front Suspension: 48 mm inverted Showa cartridge fork with 16-position rebound, 16-position adjustability Rear Suspension: Pro-Link Showa single shock w/spring preload, 17-position rebound damping adj. Front Brake: Single 240 mm disc with twin-piston caliper Rear Brake: Single 240 mm disc Front Tire: Dunlop MX51FA 80/100-21 Rear Tire: Dunlop MX51 100/90-19 Fuel Capacity: 1.66 gal. Dry Weight: 231 lbs. (Wet)
  9. 0 comments

    CRF250X 2006 I bought this bike for my wife, she was 35 years old and had NEVER ride a morocycle before. It feels light and the engine (keep it stock!) is mellow and dont do any unexpexted. All i can say its the second best beginner bike after KLX140. The only thing better with the KLX is the seat hight. But there is a fix for the seat hight and i HIGHLY recomend doing it, it is to lower the bike INTERNALLY front and rear. about 5-7cm (she is 160cm) Dont go the rout with only getting a lowering link in the rear and stop there, you need to do the front or the bike will get hard to ride and the person riding it will never get comfortable and it will take forever to learn. BUY THE BIKE TO YOUR WIFE BUT LET A SHOP LOWER IT AND THERE IS NO BETTER BIGINNE BIKE!
  10. 0 comments

    Awesome Awesome bike. With a few performance mods this bike absolutely flies! The torque is unreal!
  11. 0 comments

    Perfect bike for deep woods trail riding. Added front light helps with riding at dusk, easy to convert to street and get plated if you wish to blast down some public dirt roads.
  12. 0 comments

    Great bike, easy to throw around and plenty of fun.....
  13. 0 comments

    Good bike. I bought this bike in 2012 not know the hours on the motor. I put another 75 hours before doing a new top end with Kibble White Valves. Owned CRF230F... under powered, Owned CRF450X... heavy. This CRF250X is just right for me.
  14. 0 comments

    Great fun bike!
  15. 0 comments

    i will never sell my honda
  16. 0 comments

  17. 0 comments

    Love this bike! Light, competent, tough!
  18. 0 comments

    top end, bearing caps and cam.
  19. 0 comments

    Love this bike, easy and powerfull.
  20. 0 comments

    Put about 3 or 4 rides on the bike. Didn't enjoy any of them. I just couldn't get used to the bike.
  21. 0 comments

    Latest addition to CRF family.
  22. CQR

    Honda CRF250X (2006)


    Sold for a Pinger
  23. 0 comments

    I absolutely love this bike. I use it primarily for trail riding but its equally at home on the track as it is in the woods. I love the electric start and the power band is awesome. Suspension was great out of the box. One of my favorite bikes I've ever owned.
  24. 0 comments

    2010 Honda CRF250X HRC edition Love of my life, and first real bike I've had. Rode years ago on an XR200R when I was 15 or so. 5 years later I got this and the improvment over the XR is phenomenal. Handles great, really tight! power isn't all that but for a 250 it's not bad. But still seems to be XR tough! The white photo is when I first got it, in it's HRC edition plastics. Since I've swapped all the plastics for Acerbis ones, put on a FX Evo 11 Sticker kit, FX all-grip seat cover, Trailtech Voyager system (total crap IMO), Trailtech high power stator & flywheel, Pro-taper pillow top grips and a Baja designs Squadron 40W LED lighting system (worth every penny) Now getting out and thrashing it :D
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