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Found 70 results

  1. sheikyurbouti

    Husqvarna TE 300 (2017)


    2stroke 300s are a separate class and enjoy a colorul history of being "almost perfect". The 2017 TE300 is no exception. There was a lot of worry about how the new suspension would perform since in past years components didn't perform up to expectations until after an expensive re-valve - adding to the already premium cost of the bike. The new Xplor forks and DCC link shock work very well with stock settings - and no one has reported (yet) how they perform AFTER break-in. The jetting sucks. You'll get close with the selection shipped with the bike, closer with jets you'll buy but jdjetting.com has a kit that works LIKE THE OEM SHOULD and will save you the owner/tuner much effort. 5 stars minus 1 for rich jetting and incorrect selection to get you there.
  2. Michael499

    Kawasaki KX250F (2013)


    The 2013 KX250fs have been very reliable. Aside from wheel & spoke and chain guide issues, the bikes have held up well to hours of use.
  3. Chris_Cobb

    Yamaha YZ250 (1999)


    This bike is a gnarly beast I have yet to master.
  4. 1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Eddies DRZ400 Ported head
  5. Joseph Tumai

    Drz 125 problems ?

    So ive just purchased a 2nd hand bike its been sitting over 3 years has no kick start so i have to bump/crash start it but there is a ticking noise coming form the cylinder .. also when i do get it started i know im suppose to warm it up but it just keeps dieng out on me when i tr keep the revs up ! was going to do an oil and filter change but my cousin said i might blow the bottom end bearing ?? HELP !!
  6. SS109

    Ron Black KDX head mod

    1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION This modification is a great enhancer to all of your performance up grades and will give you an additional boost. I mill the surface and re-cut the squish band. This gives the 200"s more bottom end torque and a snappier rev. The 220's get a big benefit too, as they are low in the compression department. This will give a better pull through the mid-range and helps with top-end power. All of these mods are designed so you can still use premium pump gas. On request, I can give you even more compression for the serious engine builder. This will give more power and you will need to use race fuel.
  7. 3 reviews

    FEATURES TITANIUM INTAKE VALVES DESCRIPTION: Pro Circuit's Titanium Intake Valves are designed based on our race technology and manufactured to our stringent specifications by Del West, the industry leader in F-1 racing valve technology. Each intake valve is CNC-machined and precision ground using only titanium. Every valve is sprayed with a thermal-nitride coating to increase performance, durability and reduce normal wear. FEATURES INCLUDE: CNC-machined and precision ground A thermal-nitride coating to increase performance and product life.
  8. Kurt2296

    2001 RM250 cylinder scores!

    Hey guys, First time poster on Thumpertalk, thought id give it a go and see what you guys have to say since I'm fairly new to engine work. Anyways - I'm rebuilding my 2001 rm 250's top end and when i pulled off the top end from the bike i noticed some score marks along the side of the cylinder and on the piston. On the piston side the scores were pretty bad, you could easily feel it let alone see it. But on the cylinder side it really wasn't terrible. More visual than anything you could feel - maybe one small mark that i could feel and that's about it. Ill post some pictures in a couple of hours but basically I'm just curious as to whether you guys think that a simple hone will fix it up or am i in for a big bill? I live 10 mins away from Bondi engines in Ontario so i lucked out there. Likely going to see what they can do for me on Monday after work. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  9. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION The GYTR Ported Cylinder Head Assembly comes fully assembled and ready to install with no costly core changes or deposits or exchange programs that can add downtime. CNC milling ensures that every head is ported to the maximized design eliminating variances that hand porting can produce. Developed on the flow bench in conjunction with dyno and track testing to ensure the ultimate in performance and durability. Includes GYTR® Performance Camshaft Kit. Also includes stock valve train and cam gears for durability and easy maintenance. GYTR® Head Assemblies are used by Yamaha SX / MX / GNCC®, and ATV race teams. For maximum performance and protection, always use Yamalube® 15W-30 Full Synthetic Oil after installation - two quarts are included with each GYTR® Ported Cylinder Head Assembly.
  10. dawson1120

    yz 2000 and 2003 cylinders

    Hey i have recently blown my top end on my 2000 yz 125 and am needing a new cylinder. I am seeing allot of adds on ebay saying that the cylinder will fit from 1997-2003 , so will i be able to use 2003 cylinder on my bike? the main problem i am having is wondering if the exhaust ports are the same going into the 2003 as the 2000, are they? Thanks!
  11. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION Pro Circuit's titanium valves are designed by Pro Circuit's race technicians and manufactured to their stringent specifications by Del West, the industry leader in F-1 racing valve technology. Each intake and exhaust valve is CNC machined and precision ground using only the finest lightweight titanium. Every valve is sprayed with a thermal nitrate coating to increase performance, durability and reduce normal wear. Available for most Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki models. CNC-machined and precision ground. A thermal-nitrate coating to increase performance and product life. Sold in pairs.
  12. My 06 crf250 needs a new cam bearing on the gear side and I need to know if it is possible to press of the gear And press back on after bearing replacement. Please reply with ways to do so. Thanks, Kiblerdirt
  13. WeekendWarrior72

    Honda CRF250R (2007)


    i shred hard brah
  14. Markhawks51

    08 head on 06 crf 250r

    How good wod a 08 head work on a 06 crf 250r would there be any differences? Thanks
  15. 2 reviews

    To be used with Athena cylinder and head assemblies
  16. minimadness047

    2013 crf250r Pro Circuit Cam

    I have a 13 crf250r I just put a Pro Circuit cam in with the matched Springs and wasn't impressed with power at all.If anything it seemed slower with no real bottom end hit.Whats everyone's thoughts on the PC cam for the 13 crf250r?
  17. Milling the head gasket surface, commonly called the deck, on 4-stroke overhead cam style head should only be done to flatten a warped surface and not to increase compression. A warped head is usually the result of overheating and shows up as a blown head gasket between the bolts that hold down the head on each side of the exhaust. The gasket will usually allow coolant to leak from the water jacket into the combustion chamber rather than towards the outside the head were it would be visible. High compression pistons are available to gain the desired compression. Milling the deck reduces the distance between the cam sprocket and crank sprocket which slackens the cam chain. The extra chain length is taken up by the cam chain tensioner and rotates the cams in the direction of the tensioner which changes the cam timing. The same situation happens if thinner head or cylinder base gasket is installed. Most cam chain adjuster can only take up a small amount of slack associated with a worn chain. The higher compression from milling may give the desired compression but most likely the cam timing changes will have an adverse effect. Cams are available with adjustable slotted sprockets which can be set to the desired cam timing. This takes the knowledge of a skilled technician, a degree wheel and a dial indicator with a special holder. Not usually found in a back yards mechanics tool arsenal. 2-stroke head milling for compression is a standard engine builders service. That’s why you don’t see a lot of high compression pistons for 2-stokes. You can mill a 2-stroke head with not change in timing. We mill lot of 4-stroke heads due to overheating, improper torque or head surface damage. Most of the time we can correct the warp by sanding it on a flat surface if it’s around .07mm or .003". Any more than that and we mill it. The amount we take off usually changes the timing about the same as a worn or stretched cam chain. Valve seat to guide concentricity may have to be corrected as the casting that hold the guides can also distort from overheating. If the bike is harder to start or the doesn’t seem to run properly after overheating this is probably why. A concentricity gauge that rotates around a guide pilot is required that reads in tenths of a thousandths for motocross heads. Warped heads are a result from running the motor after the coolant has boiled off. General thinking would assume the head gasket blew which sucked out the sucked coolant but its usually the other way around. Jigging up and holding a motocross head takes longer than the actual milling time. Fastheads.com charges $70 to $100 to surface mill and check the seat concentricity.
  18. 1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Daam .188" lift 230° duration 2013-16 DCR cams are advanced 2 crank degrees for more bottom end torque. stock cam spec - .170" intake cam lift / . 152" exhaust cam lift stock duration @ 1mm = 216 degree
  19. There can be many reasons to remove and replace your cams. Perhaps you are checking valve clearances and have discovered a valve is ‘tightening’ (the clearance is less than the minimum specification) or you have just gotten a set of high performance cams (be sure to check the clearances after the new cams are in!) Hot Cams Camshafts Most people find cams and setting the timing to be a scary subject and it is the reason many guys that ride a two stroke shy away from a four stroke. It ‘takes too long to get the timing right and set up all those extra parts in four stroke’. The truth is, with a little care and forethought, installing cams, setting the clearances and timing the cams is typically a 15 minute job. Twenty minutes if the radio station stinks. Like most jobs, there are basic procedural things that are the same no matter what you do. Clean the bike Have the correct tools. A small torque wrench, a strong magnet pencil like tool, feeler gauges, a length (a few feet is plenty) of solid core wire and some clean shop rags or paper towels and a tool that can remove the crank and timing plug on your bike. Along with the basic assortment of wrenches, ratchet and extensions and sockets (6pt is ideal). Read your owners/service manual. You will be tested on the material in it!! Good lighting Mechanics (surgical gloves) while not critical, I find they do make the job more pleasant. Motion Pro Feeler Gauges Now you have done the hard part. Remove the seat, shrouds, fuel tank. Remove the connector to the spark plug. Tuck it up and out of the way. Clean the valve cover and the areas around the timing plug cover and the center cap over the crank on the stator side of the bike. Peer down inside the spark plug cavity and ensure it looks clean. If it is not clean, clean it out. Spray some mild solvent (brake parts cleaner or electrical parts cleaner) in there; expect the excess to run out that tiny hole you have wondered about on the side of the head. Now remove the spark plug. Many bikes the interior space in the engine is so small they run dry sumps. But when the engine is off and the bike been sitting, the sump can be filled with oil, sometimes ABOVE the center cap on the stator cover, so you will want to either, drain the oil or lean the bike against a solid wall to have the oil run toward the clutch side. Remove the center cover slowly. Assuming the previous owner did not over tighten it, a quarter turn and it should spin out. Just a cap with an oring. When you are done and reinstall it, spin it in with just your fingers than typically, a quarter turn with the tool. You do not crush the oring. You are just snugging things up and the oring rubber friction will keep it from coming loose. Repeat this procedure with the timing cap above on the stator cover. Next, remove the bolts holding the valve cover on. Remove the valve cover. It might be stuck. DO NOT hit it with a hammer. Just try to grab it and pull. If a corner lifts away, just work from that point. Chances are the rubber (reusable) gasket will be stuck to the head, mostly at the ‘half moons’. If it is stuck to the head, you can probably leave it there, if one of the half moons is free, you’ll need to remove the entire gasket. On re-assembly the half moons is the one place that you use case sealant , aka ’ThreeBond’ though each manufacturer sells it with their own name (YamaBond, HondaBond, SuzukiBond) Same stuff. If you removed the gasket, peel away the sealant on it. Clean the valve cover. Put them aside where you will not disturb them. Now you can see the cams! Whirly bits! A chain. Now you need to get to TDC. There are two TDC in a four stroke engine, an exhaust TDC and a compression TDC. You want the compression TDC. Easy enough to find. Insert your ratchet in to the hole in the center of the stator. Rotate clockwise (nearly all engines rotate clockwise when viewed from the stator side, your manual should mention this-do not rotate the engine backward, if you go too far rotate the crank twice to get the cams to where you want them) Watch the lobes of the cams. When the exhaust lode (front cam) points toward 10 O’clock, the intake lobe (back cam) will be point to 2 O’clock. Now look in the inspection port on the top of the stator cover. You should see the timing mark. Also, from your diligent reading of the manual, you should see the marks on the cam sprockets lining up just as the book showed. You can also count cam chain pins between cam sprockets. Usually, there are marks on the top of each sprocket and just count the number of pins and write it down. Count two or three times. Your manual may mention this specification, it may not. It is possible a person prior to you moved the cams by a pin to vary the timing. Think. Congrats! Now stuff a clean shop rag or wad of paper towels in the tunnel the cam chain is in. This is to prevent you from dropping a part down there and face the misery of turning an easy job into a real PITA. Next, take the piece of wire you have and tie it to the chain, typically just in front of the exhaust cam. Lightly tie the other end someplace. This is to prevent you from dropping the chain down into the bottom of the engine. Clean off the head of any residual ThreeBond, if the gasket had to be removed. Clean is good, dirty is bad. Time to remove the cam chain tensioner. Your manual will explain the correct method. Some have a bolt and behind the bolt, a spring. Then remove the tensioner. Some are more difficult and use a wind up spring. These require you to insert a screwdriver and typically rotate it clockwise a few turns until tight. Then pull on the cam chain, (you can tighten your wire to keep the tension on the chain) and insert the cam chain tensioner holder, often little more than a little ‘T’ shaped tool. Remove the tensioner, clean it and set aside. ThumperTalk Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Now, remove the cam caps. Depending on the engine, you may have to do it in a crisscross pattern, a little bit (like a quarter turn) until all are loose enough to come out with just your rubber gloved fingers. Do not remove the bolts, just fully loosen them. Some engines, the bolts are different lengths and taking them out completely just confuses things. Lift off the cam caps. Careful now, some engines have ‘C’ clips on the bearings used to locate the bearing, the can stick to the cap, stick to the bearing and if you did not put the rag in the cam chain tunnel, will fall into the depths of that tunnel, ruining your day. Now you can remove the cams. They might be suck, a little wiggling and they will pop out. Remove the intake cam first then the exhaust cam. If you were doing a valve adjustment, you can temporarily install the cams without the chain on to confirm you have the right shim in, then take the cams out and continue the installation process. You would do this just in case you made a mistake and installed the wrong shim or a shim did not sit properly. The magnet pencil tool is hand for pulling shims off of the valve retainer. To reinstall, is pretty much a reversal of the disassembly process with a few changes. First, make sure the cam chain is taught. If you’ve been careless and let it fall down into the engine at all, it can bunch up at the crank, in which case, you just rotate the engine back and forth a little free it up. This is the only tome back and forth rotation is allowed. Once the cams begin to go back in, the crank must not be disturbed! Set the crank so the proper mark is lined up in the viewing hole in the stator cover per your manual. Insert the exhaust cam and put the chain on it, while gently rotating the cam counter clockwise just barely enough to remove any slack from the section of chain that goes from the cam down to the crank. Check the marks on the cam; they should be in the right spot. If not, move the chain a tooth and recheck. With practice, you can do this first time as you will just know where you have to start to be where you want to be to finish. Re-confirm the crank is still lined up and that the exhaust cam is right. Install the intake cam. I find it easiest to simply poke my finger in the hole where the tensioner was to apply tension to the chain and then check the crank is in alignment with the mark, the exhaust and intake cams are on their respective marks and the pin count matches. If all is good, install the tensioner. Now either remove the ‘T’ tool and let the tensioner unwind or insert the spring and install the cover bolt. Re-confirm the cam timing looks good. Install the cam caps and ‘C’ clips if used. CAREFULLY tighten the caps per the manual. Reconfirm the cam timing looks good. Remove the wire used to hold the chain. Remove the wad of paper towels or shop rag from the cam chain tunnel. Rotate the engine through two complete revolutions and re-confirm the marks line up and the pin count is correct. This is very important as this the number one reason guys have problems. Cam timing is off by a tooth. Almost done! If the valve cover gasket was removed, you will have to apply some ThreeBond to the half moon of the head or the gasket, I always apply it to the head. A 1/16” or less bead at most is all you want and just in the crescent center. Put the gasket on, put the valve cover on and tighten it down CAREFULLY!!! Screw the two caps on the stator cover. Do not crank down, finger turn until the oring bottom and then just another ¼ turn is all it needs. Like a spin on oil filter on your car. Sparkplug in; connect the plug, fuel tank, seat, shrouds. Done! It took me 5X longer to write than it takes to do. Your first time, assuming your bike is cleaned and no bolts buggered up, a cam swap might take you 90 minutes. With experience, that can become 20 minutes. Key Points: Read the Owners/Service Manual – Photocopy the pages for reference in the garage so the manual stays pristine (other than drool). Confirm you are right every step. Recheck your work. DO NOT over tighten a bolt. In 99% of the bolts on your bike, loose is better than too tight. Read the Owners/Service Manual. You will be tested. Have a question? Post it to the comment section below and I'll do my best to help you. William1
  20. I just picked up a wr500 last night in a trade, and is in startlingly good condition, considering i traded a shotgun for the bike! It was a bad ass gun, but i feel i got the deal of a lifetime. I've always been mystified by the legendary 500 2 stroke, but now I've finally got my own. Now for the questions: is there a special trick to starting these beasts? It seems like maybe there should be higher compression when I'm trying to kick it because it feels very similar to my rm250 as far as resistance when kicking. I can pull start it, and it runs like it's pissed off lol scary fast. Also, I've read different things about rigging lights up to make it street legal. My hope is to make this a road worthy machine, so what would go into making a light setup for it? It of curiosity, about where would the wr500 stack up next to a cr500 or kx500? I honestly had never heard of the wr500 until yesterday about 2 hours before i owned this one. Thank you guys for your patience!
  21. RattleMachine

    Suzuki RM250 (2005)


    What can i say but perfection this bike is just anything and everything a rider could want, easy turning, heaps of torque and once it hits band just raw power and even now looks modern. I wouldnt trade this for anything in the world and if i ever have to let it go a little bit of me will die inside.
  22. p1moyer

    Yamaha YZ250F (2006)


    I love this bike, super smooth ride and very powerful. Sometimes is hard to kickstart when hot though