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  1. who's got info on this?
  2. Really sorry to post something that has probably been hashed over so many times but I can't find this exact issue in the threads. My daughter bought a 91 DR350 from a guy that lives at less than 800 feet altitude. It would kickstart there, for him and for her when she tried it. But it won't kick start here, at just under 3000 ft. It'll bump start, with just a moderate roll down a hill, then run strong and idle well. It won't kickstart even after warming up. It has a TM carb, 3 turns out on the mixture screw, fresh gas, good spark. Watched and tried all the starting methods I can find online. I'm no beginner with kickstart bullies. I have a 76 TT500 Yamaha that is about as particular a beast as there is, but I can get it to kickstart, sooner or later, even after sitting for a long time.
  3. New to forums in general, Bought a mint 91 DR 350S with only 2k original miles on it.... Im 99% certain its had a 400 bore job but I don't believe the carb. was tuned to the bore over. Got the bike running (rough) and had hesitation and hanging RPM's after carb cleaning. Any info regarding re-jetting the carb to sync up with the bore job would be greatly appreciated......
  4. Have you guys seen any video or articles on building a Suzuki DR into a better or great woods bike? I am looking for ideas. new to the forum so excuse me if the is a repeated question-thread pw
  5. Anyone know what the correct Torque is on the Front Axle, and the axle block (4 nuts)? i'm having trouble finding the information, I have a 1996 DR350T (off road-trail model) kick start only.
  6. Hello forum. My friend has a 1995 DR 350 dual-sport, that is running like shit. From the feel of it, it's running rich and sputtering badly past a certain engine RPM and throttle opening. Rather than start the process of tuning/jetting his old CV type carb, I want to instead swap his carb out for a flat-slide or D-slide type carb. This will likely save me time jetting the old pig, but also it will give me the peace of mind that we don't have to use that old, bullshit, grandma's constant-velocity, snoozer of a carburetor. Anyone know what carb is a good one? I'd be happy with some Chinese FCR clone too, to save money, but obviously I need the stock throttle cable to fit in the receptacle in the top of the carb slide.
  7. So I'm trying to get my old bike fixed up and ready for sale to its new home, and ive run into a carb tuning issue. My 1995 DR350SE with a bst33 carb will happily start, run, and idle... Until I hop on. Under load, the bike bogs and dies at the 2500-3500 rpm range, in any gear. Undersized pilot jet? What says the internet?
  8. I want to lower my bike and I can’t seem to find kits like on eBay that will fit. Does anybody know a source for a lowering link kit for a 1996 DR 350? Thanks
  9. Hi everyone: My bike is 1994 DR 350 SE and according to VIN the "R" model. Tenth digit in the VIN is "R". Recently I set the exhaust valve lash between .08 - .1 mm according to Clymer manual. Afterwords I came across the August 2016 update in the Suzuki Workshop Manual (Gregory Bender's website). To my surprise it had been updated to .17 - .22 mm. So I set it to .20. Started fine, sounds okay, but don't trust riding it until I get some verification. Intake values appear unchanged. While at it, I also pulled the valve cover replaced the "cam bore cover" and 4 center bolt washers just for practice. You know though, of course I didn't look that close, but doesn't look like the cam in Workshop Manual. Probably just mistaken. All looked good inside. I kind of fell into bike. It is "like new" low miles completely stock no mods. Perfect. Did upgrade suspension (Todd at Cogent), all LED's - JNS Headlight, DG Exhaust, ceramic coated header, and some other cool subtle cosmetics. Leaving the rest alone. No mechanical changes outside slip-on. Keeping it pristine. In the coming days I'll post some photos. It looks just like 1994 ad in the magazine which I have laminated. Overboard I know. Bike belongs in a museum. Although the upgrades I did probably devalued it. Anyway, yes I am a proud DR 350 owner who probably should move on and shut up. I don't even want to ride it. But when I do, it's like getting on a brand new motorcycle garnering lot's of attention. Sorry for being long-winded. Back to reality, if anyone can shed some light on my dilemma that would be fantastic. Just joined this forum and loving it. Everyone appears genuine and good spirited. All the best...
  10. The BST33 on my DR350 is just about too far gone to salvage. Take my word for it- cleaning/rebuilding the dr350 carb is trivial compared to the carbs on my road bikes. I need a new carb, but I’m shocked at the prices for even a used mikuni. I’ve noticed that Chinese knock-offs abound for the Dr200 carb and seemingly every other carb ever made. WHY can I not find a knock off for the bst33? What am I missing? Please post a link if you know where to find one! Please don’t say anything if all you’re going to do is advise against the idea (thanks capt obvious).
  11. Recently purchased a '96 DR350. Ran but not well. Previous owner claimed it ran well before adding an Acerbis tank. Don't really believe that. Got it home, cleaned the carb. Runs better but won't rev easily above 3K rpms. Changed the jetting to 130 main, 37.5 pilot (stock) and added a shim to the needle. Better but still bogs above now 5K rpms. Went up to a 132.5 with a 40 pilot. Same thing. Noticed that the airbox is missing the air inlet tube (restriction?). If I tape off half the airbox opening it revs fine at a standstill but still bogs above 5K rpms with at least 1/2 throttle or more (under a load). I've also checked the float height and is at 14mm. Exhaust is stock. Only other jet I have at the moment is a 142. Tried that and no change. Anybody point me in the right direction? Am I still lean? I'm out of larger jets at the moment. Thanks
  12. So this DR 350 is new to me, and it really runs great except when idling at around 1700 RPMs. I see the tach needle bobbing and motor does a little hesitation thing every few seconds, like it’s not getting the fuel-air mix just right or something. the off-idle response is perfect and all throughout the rest of the RPM range it runs and fires perfectly. So you carburetor gurus, would that be my pilot jet possibly clogged? The PO said that he replaced the carburetor (with a used Mikuni) and he even gave me the original carburetor, so I believe him. What might I do to diagnose and fix that issue? I did change the spark plug, and the PO did a compression check and said it’s making excellent compression. I have a full tank of gas and I decided to put in some B12 Berrymans to see if that would help. as I said the bike runs great apart from that little rough idle. Thanks for your advice.
  13. I can’t pin down the exact model of this carburetor. It is off of my 1994 DR350, but I am thinking the float bowl doesn’t belong on this carburetor, it doesn’t match any of the parts diagrams on websites I’ve looked at. I need to rebuild it but want to make sure I order the right parts.
  14. So I got this dr350 from my uncle, it had been sitting for 5 years. I couldn't get the carb to work so I ended up buying a new one and as soon as I put it in the bike started up but it has this grinding noise. I'm hoping it not the engine nut rather the transmission (I have another). Anyone ever heard this noise? Also the bike only shifts into first gear and that's only when it feels like it. I'm afraid to try putting it in gear while running I don't want to hurt the bike more
  15. I bought the 4x6 light off eBay but of course no adapter to fit the DR mount. So returning that and opting for an H4 LED bulb instead. Provided It’d fit. But checking fit of LED bulb and all sites say they fit a 93 but not a 94 if I change the year. Was there a different set up? I know when I asked JNS they said theirs would fit 94 as well. But don’t want to spend 140$ If I can avoid it. Is there an actual difference? I know that’s the year they switched some things so don’t want to once again order the wrong part. Other option is if anyone knows where I can get an adapter for the 4x6 pictured (which I’d prefer.) I’d make my own but no shop. And having someone build one would cost as much as buy JNS.
  16. Help me out please. I got a dirt model dr350, I was riding the other day an was about half throttle in 5th gear when I heard a squillin noise so I pulled in on the clutch and it died so I kicked it over it started right up on first kick, well I rode it for about another 2 miles and it seemed like it was losing power so again I heard the squillin noise so I pulled it on the clutch an it died again.. I kicked it over a few times and it didn't start and lost all compression. Please tell me whats up with my bike.. thanks
  17. Pulled the front wheel on my 97 DR350and changed tire. Having problems getting the axle torqued. When I go to tighten the axle, the speedo gear assembly begins to rotate, before I get very much torque on the axle. There are two nubs on the speedo gear housing to keep it in place, but it looks like there is a gap of about 4 or 5 millimeters between the fork axle boss and the speedo housing. There was no spacer on the right side. What am I doing wrong. I am worried I’ll crack the speedo gear housing nub, if keep, torquing it. Btw, what is the correct torque? Anyone care to, post a pic of that place on their 350?
  18. I acquired a 1993 DR350. It is just the ticket to get me back on the dirt after a 35 year hiatus. I've had the thing running 3 times. Each time it started it seemed unusually easy to crank and I don't know that I did anything special to get it started. I was reading on another thread about hard starting g and everyone agrees to use the decompression lever. My problem is the lever does not lock in, I have to hold it into place. How do I know when I've worked my way to TDC if it cannot pop back out? Is this a sign of another problem? I appreciate the insight.
  19. Hello all, trying to get my 350 running right, but I’ve always had trouble with it since I bought it. It would always backfire on deceleration bad. It has some weird aftermarket muffler, that’s more like a straight pipe than a muffler. It still backfires bad and I can’t get it to idle well, no matter how I turn the pilot jet. It constantly misfires at low throttle too. In the upper end of the throttle it’s fine. I figured it’s a lean condition so I moved my needle all the way rich. That didn’t help at all. The exhaust pipe has no holes in it either. I’ve never checked compression or timing, but I’m thinking a carb issue. It’s a tm33, the carb found on the dirt model dr’s? I’m not sure what jet sizes are in it now, but I’m usually riding at 4000-6000 ft and ~70 degree days. Let me know what you think, thanks !
  20. Hi guys just got what I was told a DR350 but trying to find out what year it is engine number K404-124311 the guy said it the Dirtbike model can’t rego it. Can’t find any information on it also has a white frame
  21. I’ve been having bike issues that I believe are electrical? There’s got to be a draw somewhere but I am not sure. I have a new battery and it frequently dies, after using my trickle charger still no start with out a blast of starter. However when I went to ride home from work after it’s been sitting for the day it’s dead again. this weekend I am taking it all apart and going to clean it all. Any other suggestions? It seems inconsistent on why it doesn’t start. I wanna ride! 🔥
  22. Long time street rider who had started looking for something to take off road. All my previous street riding buddies have abandoned pavement for dirt, so in the interest of not being relegated to pure solo, I added a non-running 1990 DR350L to the garage. When I bought it, it was not registered so I spent the better part of a month working through the DNR and DMV to track down the last guy who registered it, who was very helpful and hooked me up with the paperwork I needed to get it in my name. I would normally never buy an unregistered bike, but this was mostly complete and for the price ($300) the worse case scenario was that I find another DR350 and use this one as a parts bike. It's currently not a runner, but the guy I bought from said he had it going up and down the block. I got it home, checked the oil, and after 5 minutes got it to kick over but immediately shut it down once I saw all the oil dripping from the case. Pulled the clutch cover and the gasket was mangled mess, so that will be replaced. While in there I noticed the oil gear was missing teeth, so that is also on order. Since I have it apart, I ordered about every gasket or o-ring that I could as well as a new kick start spring as the old one looked like a spaghetti pile. While parts are on order I will do all the regular stuff like set the valves, clean the carb, flush the brakes, etc. Looks like someone drilled holes in the air box, so I will need to sort whether or not the carb was jetted to compensate. It's going to be a project for certain, but unless something crazy happens I intend to see it through to the end.
  23. I just bought a 1994 DR 350 rear 18” rim to swap onto my 2004 DR 650. problem is three of the sprocket side spokes are missing or broke. I researched and rear spokes from a DR-Z 250 are the same, I also measured the spokes on my stock 17” DR 650 rear rim and the brake side appear to be the exact measurement and length which is 7” tip to tip without the nipple on. IF ANYONE HAS SOME OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED SPOKES PLEASE LET ME KNOW ID BE HAPPY TO BUY THEM OFF YOU 🙂 Just trying to avoid buying a whole set. THANK YOU
  24. I am correct in that the part circled in blue is the gear drive for the spedometer wire?
  25. I just bought a 1991 DR350s and put a new battery in the bike. All my lights and electronics worked and then all of a sudden all my turn signals stopped working they don’t illuminate at all. Everything else works but the turn signals. Any ideas on what it could be?
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