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Found 61 results

  1. How do I fix this mess I've gotten myself into? I was adjusting valves and turned the engine over without the cam chain tensioner in place and ended up with the arrows at 11:30 and not 12:00. The bike is at TDC compression stroke. I am in the 15th pin though.
  2. I purchased a JNS Engineering LED headlight for my 2009 DR-Z400S. The headlight comes with a main connection to hook up the low/high beam and also an extra wire that powers daytime running light bar. What I would like to do is wire that extra wire in for the daytime light to always be on. Then splice a toggle switch in to the headlight main connection to be able to toggle off the low/high beam (just daytime light on and low beam off). Would this be easy to do? What should I wire the daytime light in to and where should I splice a switch to the headlight?
  3. Can you replace the wires in the 2 pin connector? I jumped the gun cutting the connector off and a friend had the male ends so I could have kept this together. I’ve watched a video showing removing the pins with a safety pin but I can’t figure out which way these release.
  4. Hi, I bought a fender eliminator for my 2020 drz400sm and I have everything wired up the way the instructions said to but my blinkers are giving me grief. The blinkers work but flash very fast as if i have a blinker out, ill attach pictures of what I have hooked up, there are 2 wires from the blinkers I have unused. Any help us greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  5. How to install Zerks (grease nipples) into the later model 400E swingarms. I am installing a 2007 new-old-stock swingarm on to my 2004 green DRZ but would lose 3 of the 5 factory Zerks. By copying the grease gallery locations on the old swingarm it can be done. Greasing won't stop the shafts from seizing but it will certainly keep the needle bearings free from dirt / moisture / corrosion. Naturally this would be better if performed without the bearings installed as it would save a lot of cleaning afterwards. Centre bearing gallery location is on the circular boss - see punch mark Outer bearing gallery location is on the semi-circular boss. 1 on top & 1 below The swingarm needs to be level when drilling the centre bearing gallery. Even though the casting is mostly hollow there is a web all the way through where the gallery goes. From the sound it makes when tapping on it, it is not that much larger than the hole size. Drill 5.2 mm for the Suzuki M6 x 0.75 fittings. The gallery is 75mm long, and taking care, can just be accomplished without a long series drill bit. The outer galleries are a walk in the park. The swingarm needs to be level for drilling the centre bearing gallery! If you get it right the drill will exit between the 2 needle races. OEM Zerk orientation
  6. Hey Riders, I picked up a used, 2012 DRZ 400s. I love this bike. The previous owner set it up for trails, which was cool because it had many accessories, skit plate, aggressive tires, bark busters, etc. But it seems like the maintenance was a bit of a hack job. There were live, exposed wired under the seat, the chain was beyond loose and clanking, non matching allen screws etc. for parts, etc. That gives you a general context for my question. So I found this wire wrap + switch? up near the computer/dash the wiring sheath looks factory but I have no clue what this is. I have a Clymer manual that does say much/no pics. I thought I would reach out to fellow DRZ owners to see if you know what this is, does it come from factory or some lost accessory? All the the signals, horn, brake lights seem to work. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Ride on.
  7. I recently returned after a ride to find oil sprayed everywhere under my bike, then inspected and found this cover broken (see picture). There are wires going into it. I'm relatively well acquainted with the DRZ 400 but have no idea what this is! Any help on identifying the part or explaining why oil would come from that location? There's a small chance that the oil came from another location, but I can't find any other leaks anywhere and the oil is most concentrated around this broken part. Thanks for the help!
  8. How would you set up a DRZ400s for Colorado? I'm considering buying a DRZ but I'm worried that I won't be able to ride around town at 5000 feet elevation if my bike is set up for 8-12 thousand foot mountains. Is there a way around this? In other words, how would you jet a DRZ for 5,000-13,000 feet?
  9. Hi all, I’m new to thumpertalk but I’ve been reading for a while. I have a drz400 with charging issues. If I charge the battery overnight it will last 24hours max, the bike doesn’t seem to be charging it. It will start first time when I bump it. I’ve been looking at the free power mod, will this be effective under my circumstances?
  10. My klx400r/drz400e will not idle seems way too lean pops at closed throttle severe on deceleration. I've read hours and hours on TT and other sites for years before getting the courage to jet and fix my no idle hang idle and now I've made it worse jd jet kit 3x3 ce removed and 2 ports connected 1 plugged everything else the way i bought it used I recently found the o ring and washer was missing from the fuel screw Installed oe washer and oring from rmatvmc 1,500 to 3,500 elevation 2.75 turn fs 162 mj 45 pj Blue jd needle -4 I took a 180 mj out that someone installed but tbh it ran better before jd kit! It now has a bog sometimes that I didnt have with bottomed out stock needle and 180 mj I ride 100% offroad mostly single track or with my kid so slowish I'm ready to sell this green drz and go back to a 2t. HELP
  11. Alrighty so I had made a post on early December about getting my new 2019 Suzuki DRZ400SM and wondering a list of the necessity mods to go with the full Yosho RS2 system I had got. So now I’m ready to do the 3x3 and JD kit, I think someone had also mentioned the 2019s come with a pair valve that’s better taken off? So if someone could make a simple little list and links to all the parts I need now? I know the JD kit but I’m seeing also something about air/fuel screw adjuster separate as well? What air filter would you recommend as well? Thanks in advance!
  12. when i ride my drz400sm it feels like im bouncing i went and got my wheel balanced then remounted it and it still bounces played with the rebound adjustment then tried it again and nothing again now im out of ideas please help lol thanks
  13. Hey guys, this is probably just a brain fart of a thought, but is it possible to use an emodel exhaust cam with auto decomp removed as an intake cam? I'm sure there is a good reason not to but the reason escapes me at the moment, it's not a good pic but it looks possible. And using this camshaft profiles the e model exhaust seems to fit within the limits of Web and yoshi intake cams if not perfectly its close. It seems very close to the rhc grind.
  14. Hey Guys, I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
  15. Anyone have a feel for where Suzuki is at on there late model DRs as far as the known factory flaws (loctite fixes)? Picked up a 19 with 500 miles on it but I’ve never had one so new. I’ve heard mumblings that some of the issues were resolved in the late 2000’s but I’m not sure if that was true or if it was just lazy people who didn’t want to take the time to make it right trying to feel better about the reliability of there bike. Any help or advice would be great. The bike is a clean slate and I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
  16. 2006 DRZ400SM. 434 Cylinder works big bore, Stage II hot cams, MRD exhaust, E model CDI, FCRMX39 Carb I bought from TT a few years back. I have hanging idle issues. I had my fuel screw stuck closed? Don't know how I did it but I had to take it off to fix it. So I have it at 1.5 turns out for when I reinstall it, I plan to modify jetting first as needed, then try her out. Anyway I have the following Jetting Slow Air Jet = 200 Main Jet = 158 I think I need a 160-165? Slow Jet = 45 Starter Jet = 80 Needle = EMP 3rd clip from top. Wire vs. O-Ring mod. It falls a little flat on top since I put in the smaller cams I had to 9.58 lift old Hot Cams before. So I think I have the thing about right just looking for advice.
  17. Looking for trails in the NE area, as much dirt as possible to get me from PA up to the northern tip of Maine...looking to camp along the trail....and hit some little towns along the way for supplies and fuel. Any suggestions, advice and knowledge would be very helpful thanks! p.s. light ADV setup DRZ400s
  18. i recently crashed my drz and now it makes this noise. can anyone please tell me what is wrong so i can trry and fix it thank you so very much! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NgdnZe8XIs
  19. Kinda new on here and apparently posted this in wrong section yesterday. So here we go again. Anyone have any idea why my blinkers won’t flash on my drz sm. When I turn them on they do light up, but they stay solid. I did switch to integrated blinkers from zeta which Integrate into the hand guard. But they’ve been working fine until a few days ago. I know people say you need the load resistor or diode circuit. But personally I don’t care about hyper flash and tbh when I hooked them up they didn’t hyper flash and they’ve been working fine. So I can’t imagine that would be the problem here. Got to be something else. Any one had similar problem or hear about this?
  20. So I currently have a 2009 Drz400SM with the usual stuff, factory carb with JD jetting on it, 3X3 airbox mod. I’m trying to upgrade my carb to the FCR 39 and wanted to hear some opinions in which exhaust would be a good combination for it. I currently have the Yoshimura RS3 slip on. I was thinking on getting the full RS2 Yoshimura exhaust system or the Barker’s performance but I’m open to listen to any opinions.
  21. So I have a 2007 DRZ with a vacuum petcock. Many people want to change this to a manual petcock - this is not cheap in the UK. This is a quick and easy way to convert the vacuum petcock into a manual one. First some background that might save others wasted time: I looked for suitable alternatives, and bought an aftermarket Yamaha RAPTOR which seemed to get a lot of positive write ups. But there are lots of issues with it! The diameter of the fuel outflow pipe is only 6mm on the Yamaha petcock (8mm on the old and the fuel intake into the Carb). Fuel pipes can only one internal diameter so this will immediately require an awkward mod! The length of the ‘ON’ fuel intake pipe is about half that of the original – so when you have to switch to reserve, you will have very little time to find fuel! The fuel outflow from the replacement Petcock is sideways and towards the Carb (where there is no space) as opposed to down (like the original) where there is plenty of space. (apparently if you have an oversize plastic fuel tank this is not a problem – but if you have an original metal one then it is). The quality is not as robust as the original Suzuki Here are the two side by side: So I looked for low cost alternatives, and could not see any….. so I took the vacuum petcock apart to see if it could be easily converted into a manual petcock. And weirdly it is really easy. Instructions for conversion: 1. You want to permanently close the vacuum valve. You can achieve this is various ways (you will need to seal the pipe coming out of the carb and the pipe going into the petcock). This was already done on my bike – the pipes were cut, and bolts glued in in order to seal them. NOTE: If you are happy with sealing the tubes then you will NOT need to unscrew the 5 screws that give access to the vacuum valve (the OPTIONAL step below) I chose to go one step further in the Petcock, and removed the light spring that keeps the vacuum valve closed and used some spare rubber (folded old innertube wrapped in tape) to create a plug the pressed the valve closed with more certainty. This was easy and took a few minutes. 2. You need to allow the switch to create alternate paths for fuel flow: Take the 2 screws out from the front of the switch, and take it off. The plate that has FUEL/ON/RES/PRI stamped on it, has a little lug at the top of the inner circle. You need to file that off, then put it back together. In the picture to the left, you can see what looks like a face. This is what you have achieved: The left eye socket- the main fuel comes down the pipe from above. It can then flow either towards the front or towards the rear. You have blocked the rear by disabling the vacuum valve (lighter colour silver in the photo). So this is now your Main fuel source ("ON"). The right eye socket is your reserve fuel source ("RES"). The only way to send fuel to your carb is to connect one of the eyes to the mouth. (You can see the left hand side of the mouth has a path that allows flow to the Carb - this was used for priming it before. Depending on which eye you create a path to, will affect if you are running ON or on RES). NOTE: The labels around the tap are now all misleading! see below. 3. The switch can now create different paths for the fuel to flow along. When it is pointing: UP fuel is ON (You are connecting the left eye to the mouth), DOWN and it is RES (You are connecting the right eye to the mouth) Pointing RIGHT it is OFF (there is no open path between either eye and the mouth). I have just put it all back together and tested it, and it all works exactly as described above, so this seems a very simple way to convert a petcock and appears to work fine.
  22. The FCR39 be it older slant or newer MX version is often reassembled incorrectly due to incorrect pictures used on Suzuki OEM parts pages on line. The part, called a "valve" in the Suzuki OEM parts pages, or vacuum release plate in the Keihin manufactures pages can be physically installed upside down and cause all manner of runability issues. Correctly installed as seen in the right hand two pictures, the flat end with small notch is supposed to be pointed down.
  23. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  24. Hello fellow riders, I recently re-jetted my carb ('01 DRZ400S) and I noticed a long rubber hose running parallel to my rear shock and down low towards the ground. This was not a hose I disconnected from the carb and I am not sure where or what it is supposed to connect to. Is it possible that this was a vent tube for the stock metal gas tank? I bought the bike with an IMS 4.0 gallon tank. Thank you for the help, Mescalito.
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