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Found 16 results

  1. Hey guys, I think its time to ask a 2018 FRC MX 39 question. I know theres a thousand discussions on this (But most prior to 2011 and its 7 years later... just saying) Do you leave the 100 Pilot Air Jet in or not??? Look it up and you get different answers (Both with good reasons). Just want to know leave it in, and why? Or take it out and why? My Elevation 1,200ft Temp = Pennsylvania (Means it could be 80 degrees today and 40 degrees tomorrow) My Mods MRD Exhaust 160 main jet 45 pilot jet EMN needle clip 3 200 main air jet 100 pilot air jet 2 turns fuel screw o-ring mod
  2. The FCR39 be it older slant or newer MX version is often reassembled incorrectly due to incorrect pictures used on Suzuki OEM parts pages on line. The part, called a "valve" in the Suzuki OEM parts pages, or vacuum release plate in the Keihin manufactures pages can be physically installed upside down and cause all manner of runability issues. Correctly installed as seen in the right hand two pictures, the flat end with small notch is supposed to be pointed down.
  3. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  4. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Dirt Bagz Scout soft panniers. Includes mounting brackets. These were off of my 2009 DRZ400S. Purchased bags around 2012, used them a couple of times in Colorado and once in Big Bend National Park. They are used, but in good shape. Specs from mfg Overall Capacity (ea) 11.5 Liters Overall Height 12.75" Overall Length 11.5" Top Width 6.0" Bottom Width 4.0" Overall Weight 4.6lbs Fabric 1680D Ballistic Nylon 1.5mm plastic Interior Stiffener Design Features Covered zippers Tapered design for minimal width $150.00 Shipped within continental US

    $150.00

    McKinney, Texas - US

  5. I purchased a JNS Engineering LED headlight for my 2009 DR-Z400S. The headlight comes with a main connection to hook up the low/high beam and also an extra wire that powers daytime running light bar. What I would like to do is wire that extra wire in for the daytime light to always be on. Then splice a toggle switch in to the headlight main connection to be able to toggle off the low/high beam (just daytime light on and low beam off). Would this be easy to do? What should I wire the daytime light in to and where should I splice a switch to the headlight?
  6. antonyp

    DRZ400S Timing Question

    Hey Guys, I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
  7. billy400cc

    cam timing off. 2003 DRZ400s

    How do I fix this mess I've gotten myself into? I was adjusting valves and turned the engine over without the cam chain tensioner in place and ended up with the arrows at 11:30 and not 12:00. The bike is at TDC compression stroke. I am in the 15th pin though.
  8. Hi! I know this issue has been beaten to death but after reading through a lot of material, I'm even more confused. I have a 2007 DRZ 400 sm with everything but the muffler stock for now. I have just ordered the JD jet kid and plan to do the 3x3 at the same time as I rejet. Currently on the bike I have a Scorpion muffler that the previous owner put on it. The quiet insert is broken (previous owner) so I've been running without it since the beginning. I'd like to get a quality full exhaust to take advantage of the rejet and airbox opening. I don't really plan on going any further than that as far as modifications go, at least it will be a few years before I get a FCR, cams or a big bore (might upgrade to a 690 or a 701 before it comes to that anyways). I have read excellent reviews everywhere for the MRD/SSW but I also saw that it's pretty obnoxiously loud. I ride in busy small streets 95% of the time and I'd rather not ride with earplugs all the time. Considering I already have an open exhaust (see the pic), how much louder would the MRD be? I don't really care about max performance, I just want the bike to run as good as I can. I'm quite used to a loud exhaust but I don't want something a lot louder than that. I'm pretty sure the Yoshi RS2 with the quiet insert would be quieter than the completely open Scorpion. Right ? I mean it still has the stock header on so that might not be true… Price wise the MRD is cheaper and the shorty version would be the best in terms of aesthetics (but also the loudest right?). I like the carbon fiber muffler of the Yoshi and the heat shield but that big ass red kanji sticker bothers me. Anyway, what would you guys do if my priorities were 1) Bike running perfectly 2) Not "all the neighbors want to kill me" loud 3) Neat looking 4) Good bang for the buck. Thanks!
  9. Time Left: 13 days and 14 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    New, never used, RED replacement lens for the DRC Edge 2 tail light. Part number D45-29-487. Same as shown here: http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/drc-edge-2-tail-light-holder-kit-for-drz400sms/46 This was my spare lens, but I never used it and my bike was recently stolen. Includes the screws. $2 + postage.

    $2.00

    West Lafayette, Indiana - US

  10. Erik Marquez

    FCR Coast Enricher removel

    The coast enricher effective richens the fuel mixture on deceleration but cutting air and that prevents backfiring. A perfectly working coast enricher is a good thing and has no performance down sides. However over time the coast enricher parts wear, hoses leak and low speed jetting goes to hell. A properly tuned pilot circuit does not need a coast enricher, factory leaness was the reason for it. Many bikes of later years or other brands did not come with the enricher nor do most of the aftermarket supplied FCR's... Removal of the coast enricher is simple .. Remove the nut and two hoses in red circles Connect the two remaining nipples with the proper sized hose and clamp them down with zip ties or clamps Plug the no linger vacuum port on the cylinder head with a cap And your done ..If you have significant back firing at deceleration now, most likely your pilot circuit needs adjustment. a year or so down the road, if you think you have a vac leak...check that rubber cap you put on the cylinder head port..the rubber caps commonly found at auto parts places do not last very long in the heat and operating environment. If you can source silicone vacuum caps, even better.
  11. So after grenading my gearbox, I’m busy rebuilding the bottom end and was contemplating whether to replace the main crank bearings. Motor only has 7000 miles on it. Is it false economy to not replace the bearings? Both run smoothly with no perceptible play. Out of interest, it seems like the cause of the gearbox failure was a shift fork seizing on fifth gear. Fork was badly worn radially and showed significant blueing.
  12. Supermotofool

    Stall At Hard Stop

    This is a battle I have fought ever since I got my bike. I have had the carburetor rebuilt, also re-jetted with a JD Jet kit. I have the 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet, and blue needle on the 3rd clip. 3X3 mod, yoshi exhaust, and this is on the BSR36 carb. When the bike gets warm, when I come to a very hard stop the bike slowly drops in revs and dies out. I am trying to get better at stoppies, and every time I put the back wheel down the engine is already dead. I cant progress any further unless I get this issue fixed. I have gone through all the vacuum lines, made sure there is no fueling issues up until the carburetor. I have pulled the bowl off many times thinking that the float is stuck and I have never found it stuck. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks everyone!
  13. kufus

    DRZ400SM EU DJ jetting

    Hello all. I need some help with jetting my european DRZ400SM, my current configuration is as follows: - 3x3 mod, restricted solenoid valve, stock exhaust, Twin Air foam filter - Mikuni 36, Dynojet Stage 2 (3110.002 - U.S. only) - 150 MJ, DJ needle, 3rd clip, 3,5 turns out (22,5) I tried to set jetting according to manual and then change it to as above (and multiple anothers combination), but its still not the best configuration. Here are my symptoms - Bike runs fine, fine acceleration, but has a flat spot before 6000 RPM (calculated by current gear and speed) and while cruising. After it gets over 6k RPM it runs fine and strong. Before that and while cruising there is slight hesitation. I had needle on 5th clip before (for a long time), recently i have changed it to the 3rd and its mutch better, but with hesitation as i descibed above. I want to try change needle to 4th so I will see if it helps, then try to use one size smaller main jet and needle to 2th but I want to check it with you before I will try this - I don't have all day to trying it Today I was testing main jet again and I think its run a little bit better (just a little :D) without side cover -> so it's probably rich. My questions: Do you know on which elevation is Dynojet tested? I am on cca 400m (1300 ft) above the sea with temperatures around 23°C (73°F) so I would like to make a sure the reccomended settings for Dynojet Stage 2 will work for me. Also I read that DRZ eu model has different air jet so I am also not sure if i don't need to change anything else than what comes with DJ by default. If you have any suggestions on jetting that may works, please comment :). Also I am enclosing current spark plug - i guess the color is ok, maybe a little bit rich. Thank you.
  14. I have a 2014 DRZ400SM with about 28,000 miles on it. I have had it since last summer. Since then, I have done the 3x3 mod with a JD jetting kit and added a K&N Air filter. I have been running a 155 Main Jet, the Blue Needle with the clip on the 3rd slot, a 125 pilot jet, etc. Basically, exactly as recommended by JD. The bike was running fine until recently. It started sputtering, backfiring, and missing around 5k rpm, especially in higher gears. I thought maybe this was due to the weather warming up, and I was too rich. I tried swapping out the main jet to a 145 (the next smallest size I had handy), but it was doing the same thing. I tried then switching to a 160 main, and it seemed a little better, but then it was doing the same thing. I thought maybe it was something more complicated than just the carb, so I checked the valve clearances. They all looked good and were in spec. In the process, I checked the sparkplug and it looked suspect, so I replaced it. No Dice, still sputtering at 4-7k rpm. I was riding it, trying to further diagnose it, and I noticed some white smoke coming out the exhaust (coolant?). The Oil looks normal (no milkshake of death) on the dipstick, so maybe not a head gasket issue. Would that even cause the problems I've been having? I also noticed a screw had escaped from the top of the carb (that holds the black cover on). Surely that must be the problem! I replaced it and... still the same issue. I tried recording the issue, though apparently didn't have much space on the memory card, and the sound is not as clear as I expected. I can try re-recording some footage to demonstrate the issue. Anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I may just try to revert as much back to stock as I can (don't have the stock exhaust). I am beginning to wonder if the issue is not related to the carb at all. Thanks in advance.
  15. Edward Fuller

    Drz Leaking Coolant/Won't Rev.

    Hello everyone, This is my first post here so I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong thread or something like that. Anyways, a few days ago(Friday the 13th) I decided to take my 2001 Drz400E out for a spin in the woods outside my neighborhood. Long story short, I drowned the thing. Three hours and a lot of cussing later and I got the thing out of the mud and back home. Moral of the story? Stick to the trails. When I got the thing back home I discovered two problems: 1.) The bike was leaking coolant, No clue where from. 2.) The bike wouldn't rev over 4.5k rpm. If I give it more gas, it stalls. I did some research on the rev thing and apparently cleaning the carb/jet fixes this(If anyone can confirm this it'd be helpful). I removed the carb, cleaned it, and everything looks fine. I haven't tested it, however, because of the coolant leak. I figured running the bike with next to no coolant probably isn't a good idea. I also don't feel like putting everything back on the bike just to end up tearing it apart to fix the other stuff. I heard from a friend that water could have caused a gasket to leak, but I'm not exactly eager to tear apart my engine to find out. If you guys could give me any advice, it'd be a big help(Especially since I've got a road trip planned for memorial day).
  16. I decided to replace my factory tool kit bag with a waterproof pelican style case. I did this for a couple of reasons. The case is waterproof, lockable and provides more space than the factory bag. I can keep additional items in there like ownership and insurance. Multi-tool and JB weld along with the factory tools. I think it looks cooler too, but that's subjective. The case I used is a Seahorse SE 56. They come in different colors. They're pretty affordable. The ridges on the bottom of the case line up with the bolt holes exactly. You pretty much need to drill two pilot holes right in the center of each ridge and then use a different bit large enough for the factory bolts to fit through the holes. After that, just go to the hardware store, buy two new bolts that are a bit longer than factory with two corresponding flat washers and a couple of rubber grommets. You can reuse the factory nuts (take them with you to the hardware store along with the bolts to find the correct longer bolts) Aside from that, you'll' need to buy two rubber grommets to act as spacers between the fender and the case. You should be able to source this stuff for less than a few bucks. Slide the bolts and washers through the inside of the case holes you drilled, place two rubber grommets on the fender around the factory holes and slide the bolts through the factory holes and the grommets and button her up. The case should remain waterproof since the inside of the case is all rubber. The washers and bolts snug up against the rubber and maintain the seal. It's a pretty simple mod and doesn't add much weight or cost. Let me know if you have any questions.
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