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  1. I recently returned after a ride to find oil sprayed everywhere under my bike, then inspected and found this cover broken (see picture). There are wires going into it. I'm relatively well acquainted with the DRZ 400 but have no idea what this is! Any help on identifying the part or explaining why oil would come from that location? There's a small chance that the oil came from another location, but I can't find any other leaks anywhere and the oil is most concentrated around this broken part. Thanks for the help!
  2. Hello, This is my review of 3.9 Gallon Gas Tank from ClarkeMFG. Let me start by listing out the things I like about the tank, followed by critique (hopefully constructive) of appearance that does NOT bother me, but might concern someone else. The objective of this post is to post information and lessons I learned when installing the tank on my 2007 DRZ400SM. Fitment overall is good Screw threads matched up with my my stock hardware Tank is solid, firm all around I like how I can see the fuel level The shape of the tank is great, it does not protrude beyond the tank shrouds The color matches the suzuki yellow well, as seen in last photo Lessons learned: You can reuse clamps/hose from EVAP/Charcol canister f you have that laying around for the Vacuum, if you're using the stock petcock. I used stock fuel clamps wit 5/16 fuel hose from Autozone. I should upgrade to manual petcock to avoid possible fuel going into the carb due to the increased pressure of the fuel.. Observations upon arrival/installation: What is this red stuff? I suppose it's from the mold/jig used to thread this tank. The threads look a little chewed. I don't mind, just would hope for more when you spend 250 bucks. The seat has a bend in the oem top cover, doesn't bother me. I paid ~$250USD for this tank. It takes 2 seconds to clean it before you give it to me, it would be nice to have that done (I know it only takes 2 seconds, but this labor should be included in the price of the tank.) WHY not include a Manual petcock too while you're at it? I knew about this "Tape" imprint before I bought the tank. Let's assume, it is the last part of the tank that is filled? I would also assume Clarke would fix the mold if possible. This imperfection does not bother me. The gas cap feels cheap (As said by others. It has failed on others). The gasket also does not seem of quality. This does bother me a little, for the money, include a billet cap. The red cap here is from amazon. Right fender shroud could only fit 2 out of the 3 mounting screws 🙄. Tank seems to be secure on the bike, so I should not have to adjust it. Left shroud fits the 3 screws. The color matches pretty well. I called Clarke, waiting to hear back. I will update I time goes on.
  3. So I bought this bike for about 2 weeks, rode it couple of time on road nothing serious testing it out each time for about an hour. And when I got it had the same banging noise coming from the motor but it was barely listenable, after 3 hours of riding the bike the sound increased drastically and when I Contacted the previous owner , he's a friend of mine who have multiple bikes, he told me that I rode it too hard the bike is year 2009 check the youtube link to listen to the sound https://youtu.be/G18E7qRePgw
  4. Hey Guys, I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
  5. I bought a used 2004 DRZ-400S on Craigslist a couple days ago, it has a Procircut T4 exhaust, an off/reserve/on fuel switch, and now I am having issues; Motorcycle ran and started up fine when I got it, except it would lose power if you pulled on the gas too quickly. I figured this would probably be a carburetor issue going off the advice of fourms, but now I am running into a nightmare. I will walk you through on how I opened up this can of worms. I pulled the carburetor out, having had no experience in cleaning carburetors except watching a couple of YouTube videos. Unfortunately one of the YouTube videos instructed me to fully disassemble the entire carburetor, and without knowing I unscrewed the fuel mixture screw and do not know the setting it was supposed to be at. I screwed it back in roughly 8-12 turns. Once the carb was reassembled, I put it back on the engine and reconnected the fuel line. I turned on the fuel and let it sit for a while, and when I came back to the bike gasoline was all over the place and dripping out of the airbox (which I now believe is because I was stupid and plugged the vent hole on the carb, but I'm not sure). I unplugged the vent hole and the leak seemed to stop, and so I turned off the fuel and went to sleep. This morning I tried to start her up, and it is not even attempting to start, just the cranking of the starter, no combustion or pops. I tried it with the battery charged, kickstand up, the clutch in, choke at half, choke at full, double checked that the fuel was in the "on" position...Nothing.(I do smell gas fumes coming from the exhaust). I spent all day taking the carb back out, checking the float, cleaning the jets, making sure everything that I took apart is correct, and this time I only put the fuel adjustment screw in 3.5 turns (per a post on this fourm). This time it makes a familiar turning over sound for the first cycle (very brief sound as if it running), however after that it goes back to the same old plain crank, nothing. I saw another youtube video where the bike had the same dead sound as mine (the link will be at the bottom of this post) and replacing the spark plug fixed their issue apparently. I spent another hour going out to autozone to get a new spark plug and the tool extensions needed (this DRZ seems to be a %*@&# to take apart!). I pulled the plug out and its fine, plenty good spark(Spark plug reading looks roughly good-slightly lean reading from a spark plug chart). Just to be safe I put the new plug in (NGK CR8E), and crank the bike again- it makes the initial idle sound again but only for the first cycle like last time, after that its completely dead and wont make any sounds besides the starter turning unless its been sitting for a while. I have no idea what to do at this point. Could that initial combustion mean that its constantly flooded or that I need to keep adjusting the fuel screw(if this is likely the problem please include steps to adjust fuel mixture, but if the spark plug is working it should just be running poorly instead of not at all, right)? I have heard that this could also signify loss of compression, but surely not after all it ran fine just two days ago. I really want this bike to be running soon because it was fun while I was on it, I just needed to refine it a bit. Thank you for any help that you have to offer. Heres the video of what my bike sounds like when I'm talking about it being "dead":
  6. Hi I have read lots of similar topics on here and elsewhere, but couldn't find an answer that seemed to fit. I have a 2003 DRZ400-S with an old - style FCR39 slant fitted (now with Eddie mod for about a 1 second AP spray) as well as an FMF pipe, and the previous owner has attempted a 3x3 on the airbox but it is more like a rough 2x3. Air filter is standard Hiflofiltro oiled foam type. I live in the UK so altitude is more or less sea level, the air is fairly humid and the yearly average temperature is about 15C which is around 55F I believe, or average lows of 0C in winter and 30C in summer. Now, the bike doesn't exactly run poorly (now that I've just reassembled the carb after the pilot jet fell out into the bowl and the bike sounded like a misfiring Harley), power delivery feels fairly decent throughout the rev range but I know the carb runs quite rich. The best economy I've ever got can't be more than about 30 MPG. I have just done the Eddie mod and got the AP spray down from about 4-5 sec to about 1 sec so I hope this will help fueling. When I changed the spark plug the other week to a standard CR8E (There had been a CR9E in there) it was very black and filthy/sooty. Also the backside of the rear registration plate, which has only been on there about a month, is already covered in black splatters and sooty sideblast from the end can. Also, I have one of those R&D flex fuel screws attached, doesn't do anything even if you turn it all the way in. Main jet is 155 Starter jet 70 Pilot Jet 42 Sorry I don't know which needle - I took it out but stupidly didn't note down which, I know it was about 5 letters. If I cut out the airbox to the correct full 3x3 size, will this lean things out a little and have it running better? Or is it worth changing some of the jets down due to the fuel screw doing nothing? Any advice is greatly appreciated as I am a complete noob to carburetors and have hardly any idea what I'm doing! Thank you for any light you can shed on this.
  7. I have a DRZ400 with a 440 Athena kit, OEM Mikuni jetted (cheap brand), Yosh exhaust, 3X3 exhaust recirculation cut off, hoses plugged. DID ANYONE TRY PUT A DR650 CARBURETOR ON A DRZ???? What jetting I should use with that? I think it's a 40 mm carb
  8. How would you set up a DRZ400s for Colorado? I'm considering buying a DRZ but I'm worried that I won't be able to ride around town at 5000 feet elevation if my bike is set up for 8-12 thousand foot mountains. Is there a way around this? In other words, how would you jet a DRZ for 5,000-13,000 feet?
  9. What are the best used Dual Sport models to convert into a scrambler style? Looking for 400-650cc, decent Highway Speed (cruise around 65-70 mph), Low Maintance, good MPG, can handle long distance rides (150 mile day ride), Very Good on fire roads, decent single track, can handle occasional sand and rocks no problem, lighter weight, Currently deciding between: drz400 and 650, KLR650, XR400R 600R and 650R,
  10. Hey Guys, I hope somebody can help. I have a 2003 DRZ 400E with a Keihin FCR39 carb. The bike starts easy, idles well and pulls nicely. It really runs well, but it dies instantly at WOT. Doesn't matter when or how fast I am going. If I open the throttle all the way the engine dies. If I am riding and close the throttle a bit, then she fires up again and i can keep going. I'd say she has full power and pull all the way up to 95% just that last bit is missing.
  11. I was out for a ride the other night, just puttering around the local back roads (what I mostly do) on my 2017 DRZ400S. The bike is stock with the exception of the 3x3 mod and JD Jetting kit (their recommended settings). The bike had been running very well. I had sorted out the few issues after doing the 3x3 mod and was enjoying the bike a great deal. Most of the way around the loop I was riding (only about 45km) I pulled off a side road onto a minor highway - no traffic, so I ripped up through the first few gears (bouncing off the rev limiter once) before slowing to about 90km/h. While downshifting for an upcoming traffic circle the engine did not "blip" like I expected, it sort of bogged. As long as the revs stayed up I was able to accelerate (modestly by this time). At this point I'm still beyond pushing distance from home. I managed to make the lights and didn't need a full stop until almost home. I stalled coming from a stop and found that if I rolled the throttle on "very" gently I could get moving and stay moving. At home in the driveway I confirmed the engine would die if the throttle was opened from idle with any sort of enthusiasm, and then seemed reluctant to start again. Before I start pulling things apart I though I'd ask if anyone out there had similar experiences. Bike is 2017 S, stock exhaust, 3x3 with JD's kit at their recom. settings - ran very well until that WOT rip. Gas is local Chevron 94. (though I did tank up at the start of the ride, just over a half a tank. Gas in tank was last fall's gas (94 again) with stabilizer added when parked for winter in November. I've never had issues with this suppliers gas before. Last bog issue was just after the jetting upgrade. I buggered the plastic needle retaining clip in the slide (a $110 lesson). A loosely bouncing needle isn't a good thing. At that time, the issue made itself known very soon after I'd put everything back together. I've put a fair number of kilometers on since fixing that issue so I'm not immediately inclined to think it's the same thing. (unless I "almost" bodged it again and it's taken until now for a weakened retainer to toast itself...?) I will check stator/battery/RR to rule out electrical issues before I pull the carb to see if it rattles. If you read this far, many thanks!
  12. Hi DRZ Thumpers, I'm thinking about going into mod season and adding some ideas to simplify my circuitry on my DRZ400SM (2007 model). The things I'm thinking of doing: Removing the ignition and wiring the ignition with the kill switch, essentially turning the kill switch into one single master switch that does both (on/out: Electrics on, ready to start; in/off: Electrics off, no start) [Note: Safety isn't an issue, I keep the bike locked up in a garage at all times] Wiring the "PASS" switch on the left hand switch assembly to rather be a cut-off for the headlights so I can hold it down when starting the bike and make sure all the juice is going into the start. (Apparently some of the US models of this bike don't have this switch, so sorry if there's any confusion there) Work out how to wire the clutch, kick-stand switch and the neutral switch so that if the bike is on stand AND in Neutral it can start without needing pull the clutch in, means I can just walk up to it, pull the choke out, ignition on and start up Would be great to hear any tips on getting this done or if any of these ideas are completely foolish! Thanks
  13. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  14. So I just got myself a nice 2020 DRZ400SM used and I swapped the OEM tank for an Acerbis 3.7 and a manual petcock (OEM was vacuum), but I don’t know how exactly to plug the vacuum port on the carburetor? The vacuum line splits into two lines (image 1): one going to the petcock and the other going to some component on the front (image 2). Any advice is appreciated!
  15. Hi, I want to get into dirt bike riding. So far I only had Street Bikes and some ADV Bikes (R1200GS) and I am quite tall and just shy of 300lbs. Most regular dirt bikes seems to small for me, peg to seat ratio is too narrow and I think I would need ape hangers to get a good standing position. But I may be wrong...however I think something more old fashion like a DRZ400 or a XR650L seems to be a better choice for me. Or am I wrong and should check for CRF250s or KTMs? I don’t need road legal bike, I have a Truck and I still have a great ADV Bike for long Highway trips. Does anyone have some thoughts or recommendations for me?
  16. hey guys! im on the edge of getting a new slip on fmf powercore 4 exhaust today and im just wondering if it is worth it, what is the power difference like and would S/SM slip ons fit onto a Australian 2004 DRZ400E header pipe? Thanks (also should i get the fmf power up jet kit or just the JD jet kit thanks)
  17. Hello everyone, This is my first post here so I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong thread or something like that. Anyways, a few days ago(Friday the 13th) I decided to take my 2001 Drz400E out for a spin in the woods outside my neighborhood. Long story short, I drowned the thing. Three hours and a lot of cussing later and I got the thing out of the mud and back home. Moral of the story? Stick to the trails. When I got the thing back home I discovered two problems: 1.) The bike was leaking coolant, No clue where from. 2.) The bike wouldn't rev over 4.5k rpm. If I give it more gas, it stalls. I did some research on the rev thing and apparently cleaning the carb/jet fixes this(If anyone can confirm this it'd be helpful). I removed the carb, cleaned it, and everything looks fine. I haven't tested it, however, because of the coolant leak. I figured running the bike with next to no coolant probably isn't a good idea. I also don't feel like putting everything back on the bike just to end up tearing it apart to fix the other stuff. I heard from a friend that water could have caused a gasket to leak, but I'm not exactly eager to tear apart my engine to find out. If you guys could give me any advice, it'd be a big help(Especially since I've got a road trip planned for memorial day).
  18. Hey everyone, I'm new to the community and I'm excited to be here. I have a question about my 1995 DR650. Recently the timing chain tensioner on my father's DRZ400 failed and caused some issues within the engine. People recommended he switch to a manual tensioner and that's what he did. My question is, should I consider doing the same thing on my DR650? I know it's not the same type of tensioner but I would rather be safe than sorry. Thanks!
  19. I have my FCR MX 39 installed (TT Store), it's been running 'decently' with the generic jetting. - 200 Main Air Jet - 160 Main Jet - 45 Pilot Jet - 100 Pilot Air Jet - EMN Needle (3rd clip from top) Here's the thing; I believe the bike is running rich in all circuits. MPG is about half of what is was before w/ CV carb. Using the choke has the opposite effect it used to have(rich pilot/Fuel Screw) making it run worse when cold starting and the idle drops if it's pulled out after the bike is started (I never have to use the choke to start now). Has some hesitation and sputtering at around 1/2 throttle. Airbox cover off shows main is too rich because bike feels lighter and faster with the cover off seemingly in any throttle position). Black soot on the exhaust. Smells like fuel at times. So IMO evidence clearly shows symptoms of a rich condition in all circuits. I am waiting on jets and needles but in the mean time, I am wondering about the fuel screw. Question If I turn it in towards closed position the idle goes up but if I turn it out the idle starts to drop, misses and stalls. Isn't this the opposite of what it's supposed to do? Does this also indicate another rich symptom in the pilot? I am using the R&D extended fuel screw. When I installed it, I took out the stock fuel screw and the oring didn't come out with the screw spring and washer. I tried to see if I could find it in the carb but never did so I figured it came out and fell somewhere but I searched and never found it on the floor either. The R&D fuel screw came with a new oring so I just went ahead and installed it. I'm thinking now there could be an extra oring in that circuit. If there was an extra o ring in there what symptoms might I experience? I will probably have to pull the carb and go fishing in there just to be sure. But I'd like to know if anyone has any input on my situation and any answers to my questions. thanks!
  20. This is a battle I have fought ever since I got my bike. I have had the carburetor rebuilt, also re-jetted with a JD Jet kit. I have the 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet, and blue needle on the 3rd clip. 3X3 mod, yoshi exhaust, and this is on the BSR36 carb. When the bike gets warm, when I come to a very hard stop the bike slowly drops in revs and dies out. I am trying to get better at stoppies, and every time I put the back wheel down the engine is already dead. I cant progress any further unless I get this issue fixed. I have gone through all the vacuum lines, made sure there is no fueling issues up until the carburetor. I have pulled the bowl off many times thinking that the float is stuck and I have never found it stuck. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks everyone!
  21. I bought the edge 2 tail light kit with the 602 flashers for my drz400s. i had oem connectors for the lights. my right turn signal worked as it should, my brake light worked as it should but the left turn signal showed no life whatsoever. I tried switching wires and plugging it in to the other plug but still nothing. Could this be because I didn't instal the fixed rate flasher or a faulty light?
  22. G'day I'm new to this forum, but have been stalking Thumpertalk forums for years. I've recently had come into my possession a lovely 2000 model (no compliance plate) DRZ400. The bike is kick start only and appears to have little use. I'm trying to find out anything more about the bike. I was told it was a customer bike built up by a Sydney Suzuki dealer for Thumpernats racing. Either as a race bike or practice bike. It has aftermarket USD suspension and the rear suspension looks trick as well. It also has a full aftermarket exhaust system and i suspect other carb and internal mods. The air box has the 3x3 hole in it but it looks as though it was always there from the factory and not cut in with a hot knife later. I've not had it in the bush on full gas yet so it is hard to compare with a stock DRZ. I'd like to know if there is anyway to determining if a bike has a bigger bore kit from the outside of the cylinder. Also if anyone can shed any light on what the history of this bike might be. Thanks
  23. I would like to claim that this is the “ultimate” installation guide, but there are too many really smart guys out there, and they will have observations that I missed, so I restricted my bragging in the title. Before doing the install, I researched this forum and online quite a bit, and did not find all the info that I needed, hence the motivation to pay it forward to you. First, how to buy the kit: I recommend that you call Trail Tech and order directly from them, or at least confirm exactly what kit you need. The engineers at Trail Tech have made a superb product, and it can be installed on just about anything except a horse, but you need the correct connectors and sensors to get it to install on your specific ride! I got kit 752-113, and an extra set of wheel magnets. (In my case, I have two sets of wheels (knobbies on one and street tires on the others) so I needed two sets of wheel sensor magnets.) Next, Trail Tech has a fancy shroud, that custom fits the Vapor display, and replaces the indicator lights for turn signals, high beam, overheat, etc. I test rode a bike that had these and found the lights to be too small and dim to reliably warn me, so designed my new dash to incorporate the OEM four light warning cluster, which I kept. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty solid, and I won’t repeat them here, only the observations that I made. 1. Power: You can use the White 3 wire plug (that you will find in the rat's nest, connecting the OEM speedo) as follows: cut off and insulate the orange lead, use the red lead for power (put in an inline fuse) for the unit, and the black lead as your ground. Yes, this means that the unit is always powered, but it goes totally dormant within minutes of being stopped, and consumes approx zero power when running. Some folks choose to find a switched power source so that the unit is unpowered when the key is off, this is unnecessary. . 2. Temperature Sensor: the kit comes with a variety of methods of getting engine temperature information. It has an insert that can be put into a rad hose line by cutting the hose and putting on two hose clamps. This would be a real pain, and will give you issues with the limited space in which you have to work. The kit also includes a temperature sensor that very easily and neatly bolts into the drain plug hole on the top of the left rad……yup, you got it, go with the drain plug option. Now how to set it: the cooling system has two temperatures of interest: - the water temperature sensor for the Fan cut in is located in the left rad and is visible in the left photo two below (sort of light blue resin to seal the wires in it). It is set to turn the fan on at 205F (96C in Canada eh) and then off at 196F (91C) as the engine cools - not in the photos: the overtemp sensor is in the right rad, and it triggers the OEM red overheat light at 243F (117C) So, I chose to set my Vapor to have the yellow temp warning light on the vapor to come on at 94C so that it would illuminate shortly before the fan cuts in…sort of to draw my attention to heat. I set the Vapor to have the red temp warning light come on at 115C which is lower than the setting for the red OEM warning, but the OEM warning is sensed in the right rad where the hottest coolant is found, as it is there that the coolant first arrives when it exits the engine. I may set this lower to give me a mid-way warning, before I actually get the red OEM warning light. 3. Tachometer: the diagram and instructions are great. They recommend wrapping the sensor antenna wire (red) around the spark plug lead “5” times. You are creating an antenna to pick up the signal that is created when the plug fires; I recommend you wrap it 7-10 wraps. The more wraps, the better the signal the vapor computer will get, and the greater the likelihood you will have a good reading. As this area gets hot, I recommend you attach this red antenna line with a couple of zip ties. 4. Speedometer: the instructions are superb. I found that the magnetic brake disk bolt option worked easily, and is unlikely to come unglued. The pickup sensor that detects the passage of this magnetic bolt on each revolution of the wheel is shown mounted on the front of the front fork tube…DON’T DO IT! I assume you are putting this on a DRZ-400S” because you intend to ride it in the dirt and trails…and those bushes/branches will strip off your sensor on the first ride. With a little experimentation you can mount it on the back side of the fork tube where it is very protected. 5. Front Wheel Speedo Assembly options: Finally, you are left with the choice of what to do with the old speedo assembly. Some folks apparently plug the hole in the speedo hub so water won’t get in, and continue to use the speedo hub as a spacer (with those gears whirling around and the seal wearing…). My choice was to remove the speedo hub altogether, order another front wheel left side spacer to use on the right side, and order and install another left side hub seal and install it on the right side. This gives you identical setups on both sides, takes the old speedo hub and gears out completely, and gives you a more waterproof setup. 6. Data Setting: There are a few numbers you need to setup the computer so it will work for you: Wheel Size: start with 2110, and adjust when you calibrate. This is the nominal circumference of the front tire, and should represent the distance travelled in one revolution of the tire. PPR (pulses per revolution) set this to “1”. Yup, I know that this is a four stroke, and only has one power stroke for each two revolutions….but the engineers that designed the bike figured out it was way easier (I mean WAY easier) to have the spark plug fire every revolution, and when it fires on the top of the exhaust stroke nothing happens…..so, the plug fires every revolution and hence the number you need is 1. I have already suggested some settings for you to try for the temperature lights, and leave the RPM warnings to your own tastes. 7. Odometer: If you are as detail oriented as I, you will want to set the mileage that is already on the bike into this new odometer. All you need do is contact Trail Tech and they will send you the instructions to do this. 8. Dash : yes, you will need to make your own dash to mount this new kit on. I went to a hardware store and got an aluminum door kick plate, and made a rough template, and then made a better one, etc. til I was happy. There are enough threaded holes in the upper triple clamp to offer you a variety of ways to bolt a mounting bracket on; I used oversized holes and got rubber grommets from a hardware store to insulate my new dash from the worst of the pounding from the big thumper and the rough road. Hope these hints, in addition to the very good instructions that come with the kit, make your experience smooth and easy. Good Riding!
  24. I am considering a jet kit for my 2003 DRZ400. Has anyone had any problems with their jet kit on their DRZ and is it worth the money?? If it is worth it, which jet kit is the best for the money and really how much of a power difference does it produce? Lastly, is a 3x3 mod required with a jet kit or is an aftermarket exhaust required with a jet kit (or can I just keep my stock exhaust on)? Thanks look forward to hearing back from you guys. I am a little worried about cutting up the bike and changing what came from the Suzuki factory but I have an open mind.
  25. Hi all! New guy here but I've loved learning a ton from this site so far. I've had my 2007 DRZ400S for a while now but it's coming out of a 3 year hiatus of being cooped up and untouched. I've been nursing it back to health and I think I'm about there but I seem to have one last hiccup. I have a lot of experience working on cars and engines but this has kinda been my crash course for small engines so I'm still learning the in's and out's. Quick maintenance write-up going over the last month of what all I've done so far: New battery New spark plug Flush/refilled coolant Oil change K&N Air Filter 3x3 Mod Rejetted carb with JD kit, AND rebuilt with new gaskets, hardware, and float valve/needle I started carb with 25 pilot/155 main/3rd notch on red needle but I could barely keep it running because it would lug down really bad and backfire from exhaust with any throttle (I assumed that meant rich fuel mixture). So I backed the main down to 150 and it runs just fine now. So now the only issue I'm having is that I cannot get it to cold (cold engine, not cold ambient temp) start without giving a quick shot of starter fluid into air intake. Once it starts, it runs, no problems. And if I let it warm up for a couple minutes, I can turn it off and start it back up again without missing a beat. But it just turns and turns when it's cold. But all it takes is just a little starter fluid and it doesn't even hesitate. Other vaguely similar problems I've found on the forum seem to have troubleshooting that points to compression (valve clearance check). Would that problem also not produce similar symptoms even when starting warm? Thanks so much for any help! -JD
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