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Found 13 results

  1. I recently returned after a ride to find oil sprayed everywhere under my bike, then inspected and found this cover broken (see picture). There are wires going into it. I'm relatively well acquainted with the DRZ 400 but have no idea what this is! Any help on identifying the part or explaining why oil would come from that location? There's a small chance that the oil came from another location, but I can't find any other leaks anywhere and the oil is most concentrated around this broken part. Thanks for the help!
  2. Hello, This is my review of 3.9 Gallon Gas Tank from ClarkeMFG. Let me start by listing out the things I like about the tank, followed by critique (hopefully constructive) of appearance that does NOT bother me, but might concern someone else. The objective of this post is to post information and lessons I learned when installing the tank on my 2007 DRZ400SM. Fitment overall is good Screw threads matched up with my my stock hardware Tank is solid, firm all around I like how I can see the fuel level The shape of the tank is great, it does not protrude beyond the tank shrouds The color matches the suzuki yellow well, as seen in last photo Lessons learned: You can reuse clamps/hose from EVAP/Charcol canister f you have that laying around for the Vacuum, if you're using the stock petcock. I used stock fuel clamps wit 5/16 fuel hose from Autozone. I should upgrade to manual petcock to avoid possible fuel going into the carb due to the increased pressure of the fuel.. Observations upon arrival/installation: What is this red stuff? I suppose it's from the mold/jig used to thread this tank. The threads look a little chewed. I don't mind, just would hope for more when you spend 250 bucks. The seat has a bend in the oem top cover, doesn't bother me. I paid ~$250USD for this tank. It takes 2 seconds to clean it before you give it to me, it would be nice to have that done (I know it only takes 2 seconds, but this labor should be included in the price of the tank.) WHY not include a Manual petcock too while you're at it? I knew about this "Tape" imprint before I bought the tank. Let's assume, it is the last part of the tank that is filled? I would also assume Clarke would fix the mold if possible. This imperfection does not bother me. The gas cap feels cheap (As said by others. It has failed on others). The gasket also does not seem of quality. This does bother me a little, for the money, include a billet cap. The red cap here is from amazon. Right fender shroud could only fit 2 out of the 3 mounting screws 🙄. Tank seems to be secure on the bike, so I should not have to adjust it. Left shroud fits the 3 screws. The color matches pretty well. I called Clarke, waiting to hear back. I will update I time goes on.
  3. Hey Guys, I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
  4. It's been a minute since I've been back to the site, but I've run into a problem. I dumped my bike a week ago and broke my beloved Cee Bailies "commuter" windscreen in half. I was like "no biggie, I'll just call them and get a new one". Nope. They stopped making windscreens for bikes two years ago and apparently I didn't get the message...Anyway: I REALLLLLLY loved that screen and now I'm looking for another option. Someone give me a shout if you've got a decent option. I posted pics of my bike with the screen in question about three years ago on here if you need a reference. Edited to add that I moved from AZ to Daytona Beach this year! Chuck
  5. I want to upgrade my '16 DRZ 400S with a better headlight. What's being used as a direct replacement upgrade ?
  6. Anyone here specifically road both the Dunlop d606 and the Michelin AC10 Cross? Found lots of reviews on both but not much by guys who have road both. I have the AC10’s and they make me think of super swampers going down the road.
  7. While troubleshooting the carb last week I noticed the torsion spring that loads the throttle wheel (to keep the throttle valve closed) wasn't connected to anything in particular. Both ends of it were just hanging in space rather than resting against a stop. Needless to say the spring couldn't put any force on the throttle plate. I hooked the ends up around/against in what seemed like logical locations. This resulted in a positive closing force on the throttle plate. However, I'm not sure if it's enough pressure or not. So CV carb experts out there... How much pressure is enough? (do I need to take and extra turn in the spring before letting it rest against the stop, or is just enough to close the throttle plate enough?) I could find no references to this, and the part is not called out in the parts drawings to I assume it's a "factory stet" part that's not meant to be fiddled with. (I have no idea why it was loose in the first place...)
  8. Hi guys, I’m new to TT and currently searching for a second-hand exhaust system for my DRZ-400S. I’m on a tight budget so buying new isn’t an option for me at the moment. With that being said, this horrid looking OEM exhaust has got to go! If there is anyone here wanting to sell their system, I’d be interested. Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi all! New guy here but I've loved learning a ton from this site so far. I've had my 2007 DRZ400S for a while now but it's coming out of a 3 year hiatus of being cooped up and untouched. I've been nursing it back to health and I think I'm about there but I seem to have one last hiccup. I have a lot of experience working on cars and engines but this has kinda been my crash course for small engines so I'm still learning the in's and out's. Quick maintenance write-up going over the last month of what all I've done so far: New battery New spark plug Flush/refilled coolant Oil change K&N Air Filter 3x3 Mod Rejetted carb with JD kit, AND rebuilt with new gaskets, hardware, and float valve/needle I started carb with 25 pilot/155 main/3rd notch on red needle but I could barely keep it running because it would lug down really bad and backfire from exhaust with any throttle (I assumed that meant rich fuel mixture). So I backed the main down to 150 and it runs just fine now. So now the only issue I'm having is that I cannot get it to cold (cold engine, not cold ambient temp) start without giving a quick shot of starter fluid into air intake. Once it starts, it runs, no problems. And if I let it warm up for a couple minutes, I can turn it off and start it back up again without missing a beat. But it just turns and turns when it's cold. But all it takes is just a little starter fluid and it doesn't even hesitate. Other vaguely similar problems I've found on the forum seem to have troubleshooting that points to compression (valve clearance check). Would that problem also not produce similar symptoms even when starting warm? Thanks so much for any help! -JD
  10. Hello all. I recently rebuilt my front forks on my DRZ400S, and added the gold valves. There are lots of good videos that amplify the instructions in the gold valve kits, so I will not attempt to duplicate them. Rather, this article is a list of things that I observed that were not covered in the material I found. The forks are from Showa, and are apparently used on other bikes, so I decided to post it here as well, for the benefit of others that may find this useful. Observations from rebuild and gold valve install on Showa forks
  11. I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season. I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft. I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home. I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding. I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able. Are there any disadvantages with this? I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
  12. Hi. As I'm fairly new to the DRZ, I wanted to ask some of you seasoned thumper-vets about an issue I'm going through right now. I have a '12 DRZ400S and when I went riding about 2 weeks ago, my friend noticed my rear shock reservoir leaking oil onto my exhaust pipe. Didn't think too much of it, wasn't going to let it ruin my day in the dirt. So I got home, and started tearing apart the swing arm and linkage to get at the shock to take it in for a rebuild. It's been at the shop for about a week now, and when I called for an update, I was told that they rebuilt it, new seals, oil and nitrogen...but that it's missing the compression adjuster screw for slow speed compression. The bike only has 4,000km on it...but it is a 2012....but c'mon, who loses a compression screw?!!?? Is this a known, or a common issue with the DRZ's? And on top of it all...the Suzuki dealers in Ontario, do not have this part. Conveniently they only sell the whole rear shock assembly...which is a nice round $2,000. Supposedly it's not even available for anything older than 2014s. What are my options for buying a new adjuster screw? Seems like a very specific item, and when the mechanic shop that works on dirt bikes, doesn't know where to buy one of these....this is a cause for concern. I'm trying to acquire a used one from facebook, but that'll be a week or so. Until then, all I can do is watch youtube videos to get my fix. Thanx, krystian
  13. 2017 DRZ400S (black and blue - I wonder if that should have told me something...) A bit of background: Did the 3x3 mod using the JD Jetting kit and the Keintech extended fuel screw with the following setup: JD blue needle, clip in 4th from top position 155 main jet pilot jet stock (22.5) with the Keintech extened fuel screw turned out about 2 1/4 turns. Other than the carb mod the engine is stock, the exhaust is stock and it's got about 1900km (less than 1200 miles). Last week (coolish 11-13C) the bike ran very well (as I said in the master 3x3 post, it woke the bike up). Great throttle response from idle to WOT. Last evening (a very unseasonable 23C) the bike started but died when I blipped the throttle. WHAT!!?? Restart and same thing. Restart and ease the throttle open slowly. It bogged just off idle and then ran fine. If I kept out of the near idle area it seemed like it did last week. Once it got back close to idle it bogged and stumbled. Not a good traffic response. (died on highway starting from light...paddle frantically to shoulder. Started right up and was able to take off with a more than usual (for me) handful of revs. (Ride home last night from coffee with the DS boys I did get to 125km on the highway without issues. Just the whole getting started fuss. Oh, and a constant, small throttle opening at low speed (just up off the idle), the bike bucked like it was stalling but the forward momentum kept it from stalling. Unnerving to say the least. Today I confirmed the fuel screw had not "wiggled" itself loose - it had not. I fiddled with it (according the the various instructions on this site and elsewhere) and couldn't get rid of the stumble. I did get it to where, if I was very deliberate, I could slowly increase the speed off idle and get over the "stumble bump" A test ride again had me stalling from a stop. A generous handful of revs and clutch slipping got me underway, but this isn't normal, So, what's changed? I don't honestly know. I did refuel before last week's satisfying ride, putting about 50km. (the tank was about 2/3 full and I topped it up) Chevron 94 (pump says no ethanol) is what I always put in, and what as in it previously. Before last week's ride the bike had sat, unridden since early March. (about a month). So carbahooter gurus... any ideas? Did my good gas go bad? My karma got twisted, blinker fluid leaked in? Tomorrow I'll drain the gas from the tank and the carb and start with fresh 94 while I await the forums wisdom.
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