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Found 7 results

  1. Hey guys this is my first post on TT, bit of a rookie one, ive tried searching for an answer but cant really find one, I just bought a DRZ400SM (loving it) but am having trouble with the gear shift lever, its the stock one and it sits to high, when I wear my boots (O'Neal Shortys) I am unable to shift down gears without taking my foot totally off the pegs, is there anyway to lower the lever?
  2. So I have a 2018 DRZ400SM, around 550miles. Just put an MRD SSW Shorty Full pipe on my bike. Did the 3X3 mod (stock Filter) And just received my JD Jetting Kit ass recommended. The kit shows that for my setup and location (Ohio 830ft Elevation) I need a 165 Main jet, 25 pilot jet, Blue needle at 4th position from top and 2.5 turns on the fuel mixture screw. Still not running right, any recommendations would help me a bunch!
  3. Shaun Small

    Skid Plate Protection

    Looking for people opinion on Skid Plate Protection on my 2017 DRZ SM. I've decide that I do NOT want aluminum and it seems like the only options on the market now are Hyde or Moose ELine skid plates. Yes the Moose is 160 new and the Hyde is 95 New, but Hyde does not ship for free so they add 27 dollars for shipping. At that point they are almost the same price. Just looking to see what everyone thinks if I ask Moose vs Hyde, what would you choose. If you guys have pictures that would be great
  4. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  5. Hi, I've been doing a fair amount of off road on the SM of late with the 18/21 inch setup. The bike, as an SM, was supplied as new without a rear disk guard and caliper guard (skimping on money Mr Suzuki?). What guards fit the SM? We have plenty of guards available for the DRZ400e as this seems to be the bike that is sold most around these parts. Am I correct in thinking that the E and possibly the S has a smaller rear disk in the back and a different swingarm with possible different mounting points also a different rear caliper? Would parts for an RMZ or RM be a better fit for the SM. I am having trouble locating SM parts specifically so looking for a direct comparison that is sold in this part of the world. I'm not nessaserly after carbon fiber parts either - I know how I ride - I'd rather wreck an aluminium $40 part than a $100 carbon fiber part. I'm also not sure that OEM plastic parts live up to muster. Any suggestions appreciated. Edit - I have found posts that suggest that RM250/125 disk guards from the year 99 onwards may fit - anyone able to confirm?
  6. Hi everyone, Looking at replacing the cam chain on my DRZ400sm 2007. I have tried installing an MCCT to get rid of the rattling sound, but I think the chain is already worn and stretched too much. I am planning on changing the cam chain without opening the clutch side of the bike, only the top of the engine (feeding the new chain using the old chain and closing with riveting the master link on the new chain). I've haven't done it before, but keen to do it. So far, these are the steps I think I need to follow: 1) Put engine on TDC 2) Open top of the engine, double check TDC, check cam shafts are at 10 and 2 o'clock, check arrows are correctly aligned on cam sprocket. 3) Unwind MCCT and release tension on chain 4) Remove exhaust cam shaft. 5) Place rags in the engine so nothing falls inside. Break old chain with tool, and secure both ends so they don't slip away. 6) Use the new link to tie the old chain to the new chain. 7) Keep tension on both sides of the chain so the link stays in place and rotate the crank until the new chain has gone all the way around and the old chain is out. 8) Unlink the chains. Close new chain using chain press/riveting tool. New chain is installed, old chain is out. 9) Put engine back on TDC. Reinstall the exhaust cam shaft and make sure all the arrows align properly. 10) Rotate the crank for a few complete revolutions of the engine and make sure the timing is good. Set it back on TDC. 11) Tighten the MCCT so there is no slack anymore, than back off a little bit? 12) Reassemble everything and start engine? Any tips would be helpful! Questions: - Have I missed anything? - Is there anything to watch out for? - This is the chain I'm thinking of buying this chain D.I.D: DID219fth --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motor-Timing-Chain-Endless-for-Suzuki-Gsxr-1100-GSXR1100-GSX-1100-F-GSX-750-GSX/352180504594?epid=2156866392&hash=item51ff980812:g:t3YAAOSwUchaSsJ7 Thanks for your help! Cheers!
  7. New guy here, I have a 28,000km 2005 DRZ400SM with the 3x3 mod and Athena Big Bore kit that ran for a couple months and started every time. While riding the engine stopped and wouldn't start again. Mechanic took it apart and found the stator was burned to hell because flywheel bolts were loose (loctite could have prevented this from previous owner or factory). So we replaced the stator but still wouldn't start. While trying to fix the no-start issue we cleaned the valves, replaced piston, replaced regulator, cleaned the carb, installed JD Jet Kit and still no start. The battery is running at 13v and lights, horn and blinkers all work and its trying to crank but will not start... So I took it into another mechanic and they said the starter is running in reverse. I asked them if the polarity was backwards and they still don't know why it's doing that. This is preventing a spark from the plug (which was working fine before the stator issue). Any ideas from the forums would be super helpful... I've put 1k+ into parts and service so far and I'm kind of done... Thanks guys,
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