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Found 12 results

  1. Hello, This is my review of 3.9 Gallon Gas Tank from ClarkeMFG. Let me start by listing out the things I like about the tank, followed by critique (hopefully constructive) of appearance that does NOT bother me, but might concern someone else. The objective of this post is to post information and lessons I learned when installing the tank on my 2007 DRZ400SM. Fitment overall is good Screw threads matched up with my my stock hardware Tank is solid, firm all around I like how I can see the fuel level The shape of the tank is great, it does not protrude beyond the tank shrouds The color matches the suzuki yellow well, as seen in last photo Lessons learned: You can reuse clamps/hose from EVAP/Charcol canister f you have that laying around for the Vacuum, if you're using the stock petcock. I used stock fuel clamps wit 5/16 fuel hose from Autozone. I should upgrade to manual petcock to avoid possible fuel going into the carb due to the increased pressure of the fuel.. Observations upon arrival/installation: What is this red stuff? I suppose it's from the mold/jig used to thread this tank. The threads look a little chewed. I don't mind, just would hope for more when you spend 250 bucks. The seat has a bend in the oem top cover, doesn't bother me. I paid ~$250USD for this tank. It takes 2 seconds to clean it before you give it to me, it would be nice to have that done (I know it only takes 2 seconds, but this labor should be included in the price of the tank.) WHY not include a Manual petcock too while you're at it? I knew about this "Tape" imprint before I bought the tank. Let's assume, it is the last part of the tank that is filled? I would also assume Clarke would fix the mold if possible. This imperfection does not bother me. The gas cap feels cheap (As said by others. It has failed on others). The gasket also does not seem of quality. This does bother me a little, for the money, include a billet cap. The red cap here is from amazon. Right fender shroud could only fit 2 out of the 3 mounting screws 🙄. Tank seems to be secure on the bike, so I should not have to adjust it. Left shroud fits the 3 screws. The color matches pretty well. I called Clarke, waiting to hear back. I will update I time goes on.
  2. Hey guys this is my first post on TT, bit of a rookie one, ive tried searching for an answer but cant really find one, I just bought a DRZ400SM (loving it) but am having trouble with the gear shift lever, its the stock one and it sits to high, when I wear my boots (O'Neal Shortys) I am unable to shift down gears without taking my foot totally off the pegs, is there anyway to lower the lever?
  3. I just bought a 2009 DRZ400SM that has a powercore 4 slip-on. I wanted to pick up the Powerbomb header for the bike but cannot find one in stock. I emailed FMF this morning asking if they could help me out but I haven't heard back. Part number should be: 040038. Any suggestions? Here's the bike in its current state (many parts on order). 😀
  4. Hi TT, ...been sleeping on this project for a while since I was wrangling with a RMX swinger into a DR350, but got the time but figured someone could conclusively tell me what's up. I have a full wheel set and front end from the DRZ-SM in the garage, and want to SuMo the plated DRZ-E I ride so I'm not killing my gummy Kendas when ripping around town. Most of the treads referenced herein are from 05-09', so the info is dated and inconclusive. Hence; the Q/A here. ISSUE: To put a 06' DRZ-SM wheel set onto my 00' DRZ-E, using my OEM DRZ-E forks, I need _____________ brackets/parts/adapters/etc. Info to-date: - I know that the SM wheels use a different diameter FRONT and REAR rotor, and sprocket ratios are completely different. - I know that there ARE front brake caliper relocation brackets, but they're for 320mm rotors. OEM is 310mm. - I know that there's going to be a need to re-route the brake line. - I don't run an OEM speedo, not worried there. Referenced Threads: - 1 CLICK: this one doesn't mention anything about the brake relocation bracket. Just says spacers line up... -2 CLICK: this one has conclusive information about needing to use different rotors, and the only successful inmate to do the work is someone who just pulled the 'E' rotors (F/R) and put them onto the SM set up. There's the OEM F SM rotor is 310mm. BOTTOM LINE QUESTIONS I NEED ANSWERED: 1) Is there a bracket that will effectively relocate the FRONT brake caliper to a 310mm position for when I want to wheelswap? 2) Is the most sensible/wise method to just buy OEM E/S rotors and run those, instead of relocating front (and rear?) calipers to fit the 17"s? Thanks all.
  5. Hi DRZ Thumpers, I'm thinking about going into mod season and adding some ideas to simplify my circuitry on my DRZ400SM (2007 model). The things I'm thinking of doing: Removing the ignition and wiring the ignition with the kill switch, essentially turning the kill switch into one single master switch that does both (on/out: Electrics on, ready to start; in/off: Electrics off, no start) [Note: Safety isn't an issue, I keep the bike locked up in a garage at all times] Wiring the "PASS" switch on the left hand switch assembly to rather be a cut-off for the headlights so I can hold it down when starting the bike and make sure all the juice is going into the start. (Apparently some of the US models of this bike don't have this switch, so sorry if there's any confusion there) Work out how to wire the clutch, kick-stand switch and the neutral switch so that if the bike is on stand AND in Neutral it can start without needing pull the clutch in, means I can just walk up to it, pull the choke out, ignition on and start up Would be great to hear any tips on getting this done or if any of these ideas are completely foolish! Thanks
  6. Looking for people opinion on Skid Plate Protection on my 2017 DRZ SM. I've decide that I do NOT want aluminum and it seems like the only options on the market now are Hyde or Moose ELine skid plates. Yes the Moose is 160 new and the Hyde is 95 New, but Hyde does not ship for free so they add 27 dollars for shipping. At that point they are almost the same price. Just looking to see what everyone thinks if I ask Moose vs Hyde, what would you choose. If you guys have pictures that would be great
  7. Hello, I need your help, FAST. … Thanks in advance. Please check out this ad. … The seller tells me the third owner but the bike is only 2 yeas old and the miles are very low. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html … I cannot think of any reason that a bike would have 3 owners in that short time. … The current owner swears it's all good. … One other strange thing is that it is claimed to have the 3x3 mod and to have been jetted but it has the stock exhaust, which would restrict and nullify these mods. … He is supposed to call me back with the VIN#, later today. … USED DRZs are as rare as hen's teeth, in this neck of the woods and I want one. … The seller also has a foreign accent, which makes me think he is some sort of "trader". … I am also worried about some sort of VIN#-bait-n-switch scam … Note that this ad was posted more than one week ago, so, no other buyers, in that time. Any thoughts or advice ? … Should I bail ? … I need to make a decision, today. … How do I verify that everything is kosher? … Are there any known scams where they switch the bike or the paperwork ? … Where else should I post this request for information? Thank you all for your responses. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2016-suzuki-drz400sm/6604761265.html
  8. So I have a 2018 DRZ400SM, around 550miles. Just put an MRD SSW Shorty Full pipe on my bike. Did the 3X3 mod (stock Filter) And just received my JD Jetting Kit ass recommended. The kit shows that for my setup and location (Ohio 830ft Elevation) I need a 165 Main jet, 25 pilot jet, Blue needle at 4th position from top and 2.5 turns on the fuel mixture screw. Still not running right, any recommendations would help me a bunch!
  9. Hi everyone, Looking at replacing the cam chain on my DRZ400sm 2007. I have tried installing an MCCT to get rid of the rattling sound, but I think the chain is already worn and stretched too much. I am planning on changing the cam chain without opening the clutch side of the bike, only the top of the engine (feeding the new chain using the old chain and closing with riveting the master link on the new chain). I've haven't done it before, but keen to do it. So far, these are the steps I think I need to follow: 1) Put engine on TDC 2) Open top of the engine, double check TDC, check cam shafts are at 10 and 2 o'clock, check arrows are correctly aligned on cam sprocket. 3) Unwind MCCT and release tension on chain 4) Remove exhaust cam shaft. 5) Place rags in the engine so nothing falls inside. Break old chain with tool, and secure both ends so they don't slip away. 6) Use the new link to tie the old chain to the new chain. 7) Keep tension on both sides of the chain so the link stays in place and rotate the crank until the new chain has gone all the way around and the old chain is out. 8) Unlink the chains. Close new chain using chain press/riveting tool. New chain is installed, old chain is out. 9) Put engine back on TDC. Reinstall the exhaust cam shaft and make sure all the arrows align properly. 10) Rotate the crank for a few complete revolutions of the engine and make sure the timing is good. Set it back on TDC. 11) Tighten the MCCT so there is no slack anymore, than back off a little bit? 12) Reassemble everything and start engine? Any tips would be helpful! Questions: - Have I missed anything? - Is there anything to watch out for? - This is the chain I'm thinking of buying this chain D.I.D: DID219fth --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motor-Timing-Chain-Endless-for-Suzuki-Gsxr-1100-GSXR1100-GSX-1100-F-GSX-750-GSX/352180504594?epid=2156866392&hash=item51ff980812:g:t3YAAOSwUchaSsJ7 Thanks for your help! Cheers!
  10. New guy here, I have a 28,000km 2005 DRZ400SM with the 3x3 mod and Athena Big Bore kit that ran for a couple months and started every time. While riding the engine stopped and wouldn't start again. Mechanic took it apart and found the stator was burned to hell because flywheel bolts were loose (loctite could have prevented this from previous owner or factory). So we replaced the stator but still wouldn't start. While trying to fix the no-start issue we cleaned the valves, replaced piston, replaced regulator, cleaned the carb, installed JD Jet Kit and still no start. The battery is running at 13v and lights, horn and blinkers all work and its trying to crank but will not start... So I took it into another mechanic and they said the starter is running in reverse. I asked them if the polarity was backwards and they still don't know why it's doing that. This is preventing a spark from the plug (which was working fine before the stator issue). Any ideas from the forums would be super helpful... I've put 1k+ into parts and service so far and I'm kind of done... Thanks guys,
  11. Hi, I've been doing a fair amount of off road on the SM of late with the 18/21 inch setup. The bike, as an SM, was supplied as new without a rear disk guard and caliper guard (skimping on money Mr Suzuki?). What guards fit the SM? We have plenty of guards available for the DRZ400e as this seems to be the bike that is sold most around these parts. Am I correct in thinking that the E and possibly the S has a smaller rear disk in the back and a different swingarm with possible different mounting points also a different rear caliper? Would parts for an RMZ or RM be a better fit for the SM. I am having trouble locating SM parts specifically so looking for a direct comparison that is sold in this part of the world. I'm not nessaserly after carbon fiber parts either - I know how I ride - I'd rather wreck an aluminium $40 part than a $100 carbon fiber part. I'm also not sure that OEM plastic parts live up to muster. Any suggestions appreciated. Edit - I have found posts that suggest that RM250/125 disk guards from the year 99 onwards may fit - anyone able to confirm?
  12. Hi all Brand new member so apologies for bringing this no-doubt heavily discussed topic. I have a 2018 DRZ400sm and want to occasionally revisit my off road days. My questions are: Will an E or S model 18/21wheels and sprockets (and chain) bolt straight on? And will the SM rotors go straight on said wheels? If yes, what year onwards would the E/S model parts need to be. Any help much appreciated. Richard
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