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Showing results for tags 'DgPerformance'.
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1 review
Updated RCM exhaust is perfect for the racers on a tight budget Features all steel construction with a Reverse Cone Megaphone design Reverse Cone design helps scavenge exhaust gases from the cylinder for added performance Others features include an aluminum turn-down end cap and removable screen-type spark arrestor- 1 review
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3 reviews
FEATURES The most advanced complete exhaust system on the market Designed for the serious rider demanding the best Features stainless steel headpipe and inlet pipe, billet aluminum CNC-machined end cap and brackets and anodized muffler body Removable screen-type spark arrestor included; replacement spark arrestor sold separately Please note: The image displayed is representative of the item, but may vary depending on your specific model.- 3 reviews
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Definitely a change from the SV650S that I was accustomed to riding for many years. The stock DRZ400S is not nearly as commuter friendly as I had hoped (Balto-D.C. Metro area). Not quite as highway capable either. It does have it's strong points though. It's torquey and accelerates quickly for having such a small engine, and seems to like being thrown through back roads. Already started modifying the ergonomics and road going abilities of the bike with only 800 miles. Will probably turn it into an ongoing project to see what it will take to make it a streetfighter in dual sport clothing... Thus far (after owning the bike for 4 months) it's had Pro Taper KX High bars installed, a 3.9 gallon Clarke MFG tank with Tusk gas cap, Moose Adventure seat, Acerbis front fender, and a DG O-Series slip-on exhaust added to it. More changes in the future... -
So my 2016 150 SX is fouling plugs, and we determined it was the jetting. It took two hours to foul each plug. The bike had a 180 Main and a 45 Pilot in it, and the fouled plugs looked like this And then i changed the Main Jet to a 175, and the pilot to a 42, and now the plug looks like this after about an hour of riding . Is that a good plug, or is it lean? I can easily change it as I have main jets 170-185 and a 42-48 for my pilots. I just don't want to wreck a new bike, thanks
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I received my DG Performance Skid Plate today and figured I'd post a bunch of pictures of the plate here for anyone else who might be considering purchasing this plate(or that of a competitor) for comparison purposes, as well as some info about the plate that I gathered just prior to and during the install. I purchased the plate brand new(unopened and in original packaging with all mounting equipment included) from an E-Bay vendor known as "DirtOverstock" who sells it through their E-Bay shop with a Buy-it-Now price of $64.99 + $10 shipping. That is a significant savings from buying the plate directly from DG Performance(who quoted me at about $130 shipped for the same plate) as well as being cheaper than even buying directly from dirtOverstock's non-Ebay website($110 if you go that route). Here is a similar link to where you can buy the same part on E-bay for a 1996-2004 Honda XR250R from the same vendor that I bought it from(they have a bunch in stock): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DG-1996-1999-HONDA-XR250R-BAJA-ALLOY-SKID-PLATE-61-2219_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ43966QQihZ010QQitemZ200266294779QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V The DG Performance Web Site only lists this part as fitting on 1996 to 1999 Honda XR250R's, but I called them up and spoke with them and they told me that it should fit on newer XR250's as well and that they only listed it as covering up to 1999 model year bikes on their site because they never got the chance to test fit it on any newer bikes for verification purposes.... but after installing it on my bike myself, I can attest that it fits and fits great. I weighed the DG Performance plate as well as all the mounting hardware on a scale prior to installing it and it all weighed in at 3.3 pounds. The OEM skid-bars and mounting hardware for the bike(which you have to remove prior to installing this plate) weighed less than 1 pound(I couldn't get an accurate reading on the OEM bars/plate because it was too light). I took a quick measurement of the thickness of the DG Skid-Plate and the entire skid-plate is made of a beefy 3/16" thick alluminum, which is 50% thicker than the 1/8" Market Standard of almost every other skid-plate available for our bikes. Installation of the plate was absolutely simple, and took me less than 15 minutes to install the new plate(at least 5 minutes of which was spent removing the OEM plate/bars) using nothing more than a ratchet, a 10mm socket, and a 5mm Hex Key for tools. All of the new bolts for the new plate lined up perfectly with mounting points and everything went together without any difficulty whatsoever and no drilling or other bike modification was required for the installation. The plate is attached to the bike by a total of 4 bolts. The first 2 10mm bolts have washers on them and the bolts go through the skid plate into the frame at the front of the plate(just below exhaust headers) and screw into the original mounting holes for the 2 bolts of the OEM(now removed) skid plate/bars. There is also a detached alloy T-Bar(meaning that it is a seperate piece from the rest of the skid-plate) with 2 threaded screwholes in it, and this bar is slid under the engine(from underneath the bike) and over the 2 frame/cradle bars beneath the motor to act as a mounting bracket for the rear portion of the skid plate. You then screw the last 2 bolts(these are rather thick Hex bolts that are tightened with the 5mm Hex Key) from underneath the bike, up through the holes in the skid plate and into the pre-positioned T-Bar so that the plate is securely fastened to the frame. Overall, I am extremely happy with the fitment and coverage of the plate as it offers complete protection for the bottom of the motor and cradle, complete frontal protection for the oil lines(about as much protection as you could ask for on them without risking interference with shift levers), and protects the sides of the case from debris being strewn backwards from the front tire or objects sticking out from the sides of trails. The plate also extends lengthwise under and beyond the motor all the way back to the very rear of the cradle almost near the swingarm. It is also one of the only skid-plates on the market that offers protection to the XR250's Frame Oil drain bolt due to the plates design having a top portion that extends up and around that frame drain bolt, but without blocking maintenance-related access to the bolt for oil changes(There is a hole in the plate so you can still unscrew the bolt). The plate does not interfere in any way with the motion of the shifter lever or rear brake lever or any other moving part that I have noticed yet while sitting on the bike.... although I have not actually had a chance to start the motor up yet with the new skid-plate on because I installed it around midnight tonight. It also appears that the crankcase oil drain bolt(on the lower side of the motor) should be accessible for oil changes without removing the skid plate, although I can't tell yet if oil will drip onto the skid plate or not while draining during an oil change. The plate also appears to be very tightly fastened to the frame and shouldn't go anywhere(I gave it a few smacks with a rubber mallet to make sure it was secure and it didn't budge). As mentioned earlier, I have not yet had a chance to start the bike up with the new plate on, so hopefully it doesn't rattle at all with the motor running. If it does rattle, I'll probably loosen the plate up and slip some pieces of rubber sheathing in between portions of the plate in spots where it might be rattling against any portions of the frame or other metallic components and then tighten everything back up. See the next few posts in this thread for pictures of the plate prior to and after installation.
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Love this bike. I came off a XR650r, and the 250 x is so light and nimble in comparison. While obviously lacking some of the raw power the 650 had, the 250x pulls hard, and the suspension is night and day compared to the 650. My only real gripe is what a pain in the ass it is to remove the carburetor. Otherwise, I love this bike. -
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You know it, you love it! Great 70/30 bike (in favour of off-road/on-road). If you're in the woods 70/80+ percent of the time, get a 250, ya butt! This thing got it's name for a reason. Better off-road than the KLR and the DR, but of the 3 definitely the worst on the road. It's a big dirt bike! You know what you're getting into! DR is perfectly 50/50, and KLR 30/70. Shop accordingly, friends! Don't even bother unless you're going to do Dave's Mod, smog delete, and and slap a real air filter in there! Great bike. Wheelies! My favourite thing about it is when you turn the throttle, it like goes "vrooom" or like "braaaap" or like something, ya know? 'T's great!! Almost as fun as my wife's TW200....just kidding, this isn't nearly as fun as the TW, but then again, nothing is. -
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I bought this 7/19 brand new. Sitting on the dealer's floor for a long time and he wanted to get rid of it. $6000 out the door. I've de-smogged, mikuni tm40, DG slipon, FMF powerbomb headers, IMS tank, 15-50 sprockets, 40 sprocket I match with a 15 for extensive highway riding. All front sprockets are Fritz. Tusk handguards, cyclerack rear rack, uni filter, desnorkled, Sutton oil cooler, xrs only temp. dipstick, stage 1 hot cam,1 inch silencer in the DG. Got a jug bored to 670, wiseco 10.5 to 1 piston I haven't installed yet. Best bike ever!- 1 comment
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So far so good. Checked/repacked/replaced all worn bearings, fluids, tires, clutch plates, brake pads, chain, sprockets, bars, grips and levers. Replaced all incorrect size/length bolds, nuts, screws. Removed a ton of red loctite. Usually at the expense of the threads and or bolt, nut and screw! BAD TOAD!!! I want to convert to electric start. The parts are out there. Let me know if you have done it or know someone who has. -
I was going to buy an fmf powercore 4 but the i found a DG slip-on exhaust for almost $100 dollars cheaper. Will this fit on a Yamaha TTR125?
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