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Found 113 results

  1. Hello I've been having issue trying to pin down an exhaust to purchase I ride predominantly off road on my drz400e aus spec (exhaust noise non issue) and I've limited my chooses to an mrd zpro and a rs3 full system Does the mrd shift the torque so the pull starts later not sooner due to it being free flowing Is the rs3 more suitable on dirt than a zpro Price Wise I can get the rs3 full system for $715AUD and the mrd Zpro is $788AUD Shipped+plus with all the extra bits In the future I will do some engine mods but before those will be suspension.
  2. 0 comments

    love to ride this bike. lots of torque, great on the trails
  3. 0 comments

    2001 DRZ400S
  4. 0 comments

    it has tires, they turn when the engine runs, mostly.
  5. 0 comments

    Awesoe
  6. 0 comments

    .
  7. 3 comments

    very fun bike. modified for on road use. with 14-47 gears it has good range for trails and plenty on the road. just a bit on the heavy side in tight single track; gonna get a workout, which isn't so bad.
  8. I'm living in Colorado, planning on using my bike for double and single track trails driving from Denver area. Does anyone know which bike would be better for the altitude and cold? I've heard two sides: 1. The DRZ will satisfy your need for more displacement at higher altitudes while FI 250's become anemic. and 2. The WRR will adjust to the altitude better. ps I'm 150 pounds and 5'11 so I'm not sure that I should be worried about the WRR providing too little power...
  9. New to the forum. Long time observer. Highly entertained and educated by you long time contributors. Thanks and Cheers! I recently acquired a 2009 DRZ400S. Very nice bike with deferred maintenance. As I am cleaning and upgrading to current maintenance and adding other gimmicks, I noticed a sticker on the trailing arm that reads "Watson Suspension" - see attached photo. I am confused becasue I have never hear, nor could I Google enough, to find info of a suspension company by this name. I'm not the most experienced mc guy, and not the dumbest, but I am not sure where the sticker cam from. Thanks in advance for your help. PS - Take it easy on me if I've missed something.
  10. Hello ALL, I am totally new here. If i am posting at a wrong place please do guide me. Hope not to annoy you all with my questions... I am in process of acquiring a DRz400 2004. Its factory pack never been put together or taken out of the box. Would it be still a good buy ? Do i have to worry about getting new fuel pipes and all ? What should be the cleaning "RIGHT way to do "? I know there is No right way to do it... but How would you prefer to get it on road. am looking forward to hear from you all and sharing my experience with DRZZZzzzz.... What name should i have for my bike ? Any suggestions would be great.... Thank you.
  11. I have recently picked up a 2008 drz400s with 1500 miles and I have been just learning about the bike and adding parts to make it better. My question is, I went to check my petcock for a off position and learned it doesn't have one because of the vacuum. I went to turn the switch and it hits the tank. So if I was to run out of fuel I couldn't switch to reserve because the seam of the tank. Is this a old model petcock issue? What should I do to fix? Thank you for the help
  12. After installing Jimmy Button hi bars and an up and forward riser on my DRZ I was right at the limit of my cables. I really didn't want to go higher with the expense of new parts and new cables. I wanted to lower the already high center of gravity a little, not raise it more. Knight Design was willing to make a set of lower pegs ( close to 1in. lower) and after some work has come up with a peg that works great for me, and the brake and shifter can easily be adjusted to the new height. The pegs are also lighter and look cool as well. I am 6'2" and weigh 210 lbs. I can finally stand without getting a sore neck. If interested you can contact: Alicia at Knight Design at sales@knightdesignllc.com or google it. I am not affiliated with Knight Design. Just trying to help others with the same problem I had. 2 pics attached
  13. Hi, so as you can guess, and as some of you may have experienced yourselves, my 2000 DRZ was stolen a month ago and I had pretty much given up on it, BUT the cops called yesterday and I picked my bike up from the hood. Some hood rats had ripped off all the electronics, lights, fairings, bark breakers, mirrors, electric console, rack, license plate mount, and ignition, even ripped off my fan override switch and power. It has a spider nest of wires coming out the front forks. I can figure out what most of them are, and I know someone was riding it hotwired just yesterday, and when I picked it up, it still had wires twisted together. When I searched on the net, I find most people saying that you need to connect the orange and red wire, and the grey and brown wire are for the lights. The scumbags who were riding it had the orange and brown twisted together and the red with the grey. Plus I don't know if any of the other wires are crucial. Nonetheless, as it sits from how I recovered it, It doesn't make a sound or try to start. It is not a kickstart, its push-button. The key ignition is completely gone, as is the console. You guys know anything about how I can make it run again? Also, I know its almost not worth repairing all the damage, but if anyone out there has an old console and/or ignition or anything I can use to try and fix this thing, please help. I'm crushed. I had just finished rejetting and tuning the bike the day before it was stolen- and she was running like a true DRZ beast, so I'm assuming, aside from the hole they punched in my case from dropping the bike on the shifter, that the engine is still solid, and the bike can still be something if I fix the electronics. THANKS IN ADVANCE, SO MUCH, FOR ANY HELP. -JP
  14. Hi all, Ive been looking at getting the kickstart for the drz because my battery is not the best, especially in the cold and i would like the added reliability. My question is that i have an '02 S model and was curious if it would still be effective. I'm pretty sure that only the E model can use the manual decomp lever due to different machining on the head (or lack there of). So without the manual decomp lever how hard would it be to kick start the Drz?
  15. Over the years, we've really developed a large DR-Z400 customer base, so we decided to create a DR-Z400 store within the TT store, in an effort to make it easier to browse all the "popular" stuff available for your DR-Z400. When you click the obvious DR-Z banner on our store homepage, it will load up products that we see as "popular" for the DR-Z400. You can browse the complete list of popular products by using the next page links (page numbers) at the bottom right of the page. Or, if you prefer, you can filter the list by the categories that we've created. Note that when you click the DR-Z400 homepage banner, it's showing you the most "popular" parts. If you want to see ALL parts for the DR-Z, including the less common, more obscure stuff, click on the "shop aftermarket" parts button and use the year/make/model filter. The year make/model filter still works, even if you're just looking at the popular parts section. Thanks for your support over the years and we hope that the popular DR-Z400 parts section of our store will make browsing the possibilities easier. If you have any suggestion for parts to list as popular that we've missed, let us know and we'll add them. We're adding product to this list weekly. https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/
  16. Off Road 2010 REAL E > 434cc Cylinder Works Big BoreOn Road 2009 SM > 485cc stroker
  17. I am wanting to do a stroker rebuild on my Z (as I am convinced my crank is on it's last legs) and I have read many times that the best option for this build is to run Ron Hamp Cams and Eddie's stage 2 valve kit. I believe without this combo people run into issues with head gaskets blowing out.... Unfortunately Eddie will not supply this gear on international order due to shipping/insurance issues. Being that he is the only supplier for RHC I am left with a small dilemma and am seriously contemplating selling the bike and moving on to bigger better wheels. Can anyone out there recommend another option for quality cams that suit a +4mm Hot Rods stroker crank rebuild ?
  18. I haven't ridden a motorcycle in over 20 years but would like to start. I bought my son (7years old) a PW50 and he loves it. I'm tired of running to keep up with him. I know I want the reliability of a DRZ. My goal is to ride to work (2 miles) and some mountain roads on the weekends. I would prefer a SM but those seem to be hard to find used in my area. I found this DRZ 434 today on Craigs list. From your experience dose this seem like a good deal and a good bike for a beginner? From the CL add: Time to move on, this bike has been so awesome it's a hard choice to want to sell. It has been totally bullet proof, with no issues. It currently has 11,370mi. and is one of the best DualSports on the market. This bike is practically maintenance free. Here are some of the important mods: Yoshimura RS3 full stainless w/carbon fiber can. Hi-Performance cams CVK40 carb w/mods and inline fuel filter CylinderWorks 434 BB kit w/Vertex piston Scotts damper and BRP top triple clamp mount IMS 3.2 oversized tank (approx. 160mi. range) TrailTech Baja racing headlight Edge tail light w/Bikemaster LED blinkers DID gold chain w/Ironman rear sprocket HEL braided stainless line Galfer oversized front rotor 270mm, standard size Galfer rear Seat Concepts seat Tubliss front Black rims w/Bulldog stainless hvy dty spokes There's a TON more stuff, HAVE TO SEE IT!!!! I will GIVE all the OEM parts that I still have along with a AGV size Lg. white helmet & goggles..... excellent condition along with a pair of gloves. I am negotiable, so make me a reasonable offer. OBO
  19. Hey Thumpertalk! I'm a student in Norway and started a Youtube series called Freedom Key. Basically I hunt down and film bikes that intrest me. The videos are visually pleasing and show a lot of interesting bikes! My plan is not to get popular and have lots of views, I just really enjoy filming and I love bikes, so sharing my passion and exploring new film techniques is a priority. The first video is out, but it's only a teaser. Next video will be out next week. Check it out and let me know what can be done to make it more interesting. Thanks!
  20. This preventative Maintenance "fix" is applicable and recommended for ALL YEAR and MODEL DRZ 2000 -to current year Why does my counter shaft (C/S) sprocket get loose? Is it the nut? Or something else? The “Loose” sprocket” situation in most cases really is not what it seems; the C/S nut is not coming loose. The sprockets rotational moment on the splined counter shaft causes wear on end of second gear busing face which is part of the clamped assembly held together with that large nut. As the bushing face wears, the clamped assembly looses clamp load and the nut is now “loose" on the shaft. Really though the not has not moved relative to the shaft and lock washer, but the overall width of the stacked parts assembly has shrunk, making it appear as the nut has loosened. http://www.thumperta...=1&d=1277642132 24 CIRCLIP 18 WASHER 15 GEAR, 3RD DRIVEN (NT:22) 16 GEAR, 4TH DRIVEN (NT:24) 21 WASHER, 1ST DRIVEN LH 13 GEAR, 2ND DRIVEN (NT:26) 14 BUSH, 2ND DRIVEN 22 BEARING, DRIVE SHAFT, LH 34 SPACER, ENGINE SPROCKET 33 SPROCKET, ENGINE (NT:15) 38 WASHER 37 NUT, ENGINE SPROCKET Those are the parts that are clamped together as an assembly on the countershaft. The small clearance between the involute splined shaft and sprocket allows this minor rotation movement, which causes wear of the C/S second gear bushing. That is what causes the “loose” C/S sprocket nut. Users find the C/S nut loose and then tighten the nut, against what is now a worn, mushroomed 2nd gear bushing, this causes bind in the counter shaft. A little may go unnoticed for many miles, a little more bind, and the bushing will seize to the gear and counter shaft. Causing hundreds of dollars in repairs and possible a crash when the transmission sizes. The preventive fix is shown below. If your interested in more background and detail, read past the fix for some additional info. The procedure: What brand or type Anaerobic threadlocker you use is dependent on what is available in your area. The established standard shown to work when done as suggested is Loctite brand (Henkel corp) High Strength Threadlocker #263. In the years since this procedure was established we have had two employees from Loctite visit the forums and speak on the use of Anaerobic threadlocker for this application. One company representative stated emphatically the use of a thread locker would not work, he implied we were idiots for trying and wasting our time. When it was pointed out that we had been using Loctite thread lock for many years and it in fact did do what we needed. The company rep implied we were idiots and never came back.LOL The second company representative , had a much better attitude, was very helpful and stated, while he acknowledged our success in using the 271 product, a better option was available. Loctite retaining compound 680 or 638 was recommended. 680 or 638 is commonly found at Farm equipment suppliers (John Deer, heavy truck, ect) Start cleaning the Sprocket area well, then remove the counter shaft nut and sprocket, clean and degrease the threads and splines using brake or contact cleaner. Remove all scale and rust. (Note, on rare occasions the sprocket may be difficult to remove due to rust or corrosion. Or if this is a used bike, a previous owner may have already done the Loctite fix. If this happens the sprocket will likely need a small two jaw puller to remove) Remove and clean the spacer, and check the O ring behind, clean the shaft splines as well again. Check the the spacer is deeply grooved or pitted / rusted where the seal rides on it, it will need to be replaced, and the seal as well. Once that is all done Reinstall the o ring in the spacer and with the two cut outs on the spacer facing the motor reinstall it on the shaft . Apply 4-6 drops of 263 to the splines of the counter shaft, just outboard of where the sprocket will rest once installed. Distribute the drops around the shaft evenly. More is not better, if you douse the splines and the loctite gets under the spacer and into the seal area, once it sets, the seal can be damaged The threadlocker tends to wick into the spline gaps, so you really do not need to slather a lot on to get the job done. Install the spacer and o rings onto the C/S, and then the sprocket. Use a drop of 263 on the counter shaft threads and install the lock washer & C/S nut. Using the chain as a holding tool, tighten the C/S nut to 105 ftlb. Remove the chain and rotate the countershaft by hand, It should rotate without any binding. Some drag will be present and is expected. If it rotates freely, then you are good to go. Bend the locking washer over, let the thread locker cure for a minimum of 8 hours and go ride. There is a lot more to anaerobic thread sealant and thread lockers, Different types, primers that can be used to prep the surface and or speed cure time. Cure time based on temp, air in contact with the product, type of metal in contact… And that would make a great 20 page thread in the general forum… But the bottom line, no matter what the product data sheet says for Loctite brand High Strength thread locker 263. No matter what a company rep may say. It works in this application. Removing the sprocket after installing it using Loctite 263: Lastly, we come too, “How do I get this sprocket off, once I have installed it using Loctite 263 to help fix it in place?” Anaerobic thread sealant does become soft when heated. The problem with heating the counter shaft and sprocket is, there are o ring and a seal that reside right behind that sprocket which might be damaged by the heat. So go easy. Use heat on the nut to soften the thread lock, then remove the nut. Then; The simplest method I and others have found to remove the sprocket is to use a small two or three jaw gear puller. Commonly available from most any automotive tool supply house.r. . Rent or buy the puller, it’s a good tool investment. Using the chain and rear brake as a holding tool, flatten the lock washer, and remove the C/S nut. If you use an impact gun to remove the nut, make sure the transmission is not in gear. Remove the chain, and place the puller jaws over the sprocket. Make sure the puller screw is centered in the counter shaft. Apply some pressure to the puller. If you use an air impact gun, the sprocket will come right off. If your using a ratchet or wrench, tighten the puller, then give the center screw a light rap with a dead blow hammer.. The sprocket will break free and can now be removed. If you have a leaking countershaft seal now is the time to deal with is. Parts required for the repair of a leaking countershaft seal are: SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT OIL 09283-30053 SPACER, ENGINE SPROCKET 27531-29F00 O RING (D:2.5,ID:21) 09280-21008 The screws holding the seal retainer will be damaged if you attempt removal without first heating them to 150-200c to loosen thread locking compound that may be on them. Highly recommended to use an impact screwdriver to loosen these (and most other JIS/Phillips head) screws. If the screws are damaged and need be replaced,they are BOLT, RETAINER (6X14) 09126-06007. However they can be replaced with common hardware, countersunk screw, grade 8.8 and above 6mm x 14mm. Replacement nut and washer are: ENG SPROCKET WASHER 09167-22012 ENGINE SPROCKET NUT 09140-18006 If you just a complete parts kit, here's one from All Balls (also sold under the brands of MSR and Moose): https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/All-Balls-Counter-Shaft-Seal-Kit-p4797952.html Here is some background in to how we came to this preventive maintenance fix. TT User Noble and Sargentrab, the original investigators of this issue initially thought the second gear bushing wear /deformation was caused by over tightening the nut... So we have identified the problem as, loose fit between the C/S sprocket splines and those of the countershaft. Again Noble noted This theory was originally derived from inspection of three DRZ transmissions, but has since proven true with many others, to include my own and many I have worked on over the years.
  21. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride! This post has been promoted to a wiki
  22. NOTE: This How To white paper is just a guide; it does not replace a service manual, general mechanical knowledge, specific motorcycle repair experience and good old common sense. With the proper tools, some general experience and this guide most users will be able to successfully remove and install a NEW DRZ TOP end (piston, rings, cylinder, as in a new off the shelf big bore kit) and if required replace shims to adjust the valves to service specifications. As always if after reading though this guide, you do not feel capable of performing this maintenance task, STOP, ask questions on the forum, take pictures of your point of confusion and get your answers before you start. This write up does not currently address the additional steps required to install new set of rings /piston in a good condition used cylinder. Who should do this job?: Well anyone with a basic bit of mechanical knowledge, some common sense, the basic tools required, has the time and patients to stop when confused on a step, missing the right part, tool, or piece of knowledge, and has a service manual on hand (for this task, any DRZ 400 OEM service manual will do, any model, any year, quick search of the internet will get you what you need). For the first timer, plan a weekend. Start the project so you have at least one day extra in your scheduled time line with tool and parts stores open.. You will need something Tools: Only what I consider basic tools are needed for this task, of course one person’s basic set is not always the same as another's. So read though the article, look at the procedure in the service manual, and consider your available tools.. Since you are reading this, I’ll assume you have not done the job before. As such, there is sure to be a tool not mentioned that would make the job easier, or even required. Feel free to send in your “Have too’s” and we will add them. So what do you need? We start with the word quality, tools, parts, etc..ie if it came from Harbor Freight likely damage to a fastener or two should be considered normal. 🤣 An assistant is often helpful; an extra hand, an extra set of eyes to see something you missed, someone to use the digital camera. One of your best “Tools” is the digital camera. It can be your best memory of how a part fit, fastener went, remind you of an install sequence. Take more than you think you need you never know which shot or angle will have that one piece of info you will need later. Second best “tool” is the zip lock bags and marker… Buy the cheapest bags you can find,, often you can buy a hundred or so for just a few $$ (the one time I will shop at someplace like Harbor Freight) Metric socket sets and ratchets (1/4”,3/8” drive (6 point preferred), wrenches, hex key wrenches/sockets, torque wrench (having two; an inch pound low torque under 300/inlb and higher torque up to 75 ft/lb+), breaker bar, razor type scraper W/ extra blades (plastic scraper is safer on the head and cylinder surface ), wire brush (not to be used on any aluminum surface gasket surface), valve shim kit or access to additional size shims, feeler gage, long needle nose pliers, magnate on a extending stalk, wire and zip ties Supply's: -Assembly lube -4 qt oil (2 qt can be basic oil, the other two what you normally run for a full service interval) -2 oil filters (at least one a paper type) -Coolant -Anti seize (very small amount needed for the exhaust fasteners, you can often get a 5 gram one time use "pouch" of this at a automotive supply store) - Medium Strength Anaerobic thread Locker (Loctite Brand 242 or Permatex "blue")My basic rule for fasteners.. if it rotates it gets thread lock, if it can vibrate loose it gets thread lock, If it is subject to corrosion it gets thread lock. The assembly, fastener, and it’s use directs the type of thread lock used. High strength, Medium, or Low. Wicking grade for assembled parts, or just thread sealant.. There are many options. -Three Bond 1194 case sealant or RTV type automotive silicone sealant (very small tube needed, you will only use two small pea sized spots of sealant) -Paper towels and lint free shop towels, As you will be opening your engine up, the first step is to thoroughly clean the bike; the frame above the engine valve cover, head, case and left side cover will be open and accessible to dirt and other debris. Clean, degrease, and start with a clean work environment. Time to dig in You’re doing a top end install, OEM or Bigbore so let’s assume you have bought a kit, and have a base gasket (single or three ply), head gasket, new or refinished cylinder, new correctly sized piston, pin, pin locks, rings. I prefer to leave the oil in the engine, so it might carry away any minor dust or debris and coolant that get in while performing the install. You can do this step at the start if you want, but I would suggest you wait unless you have a clean room to do the build in (ahhh someday I'll have another clean room just for engine work....but not today) You will need to remove the seat, shrouds, and tank. Drain the coolant(See Tech article "Cooling System Service" as needed) Something not required but I’ve found helps with keeping coolant out of the case when you pull the head..is to use a shop vac to "vacuum" the cooling system at the head inlet. Then again once the head is off, vacuum around the cooling passages of the cylinder before you remove the cylinder. Required? NO, but it seems to help. And coolant in the case is another reason I drain the old oil after assembly is done. Remove the fan and horn (if used) then radiators...Again not required, but for most it makes the job easier and with less chance of damaging the radiators as well as it provides more working room. Remove the carburetor, exhaust system and top engine mount. If you need to know how to do this, please refer to the service manual and or other help threads for these items. Now that things are stripped away, clean the engine and frame area (again) the less chance of dirt getting in the better. Disconnect the spark plug wire and loosen the plug, leave it in place to assist in keeping debris and loose fasteners out of the engine. Remove the three breather hoses two on the valve cover top and one at the back of the cylinder and zip tie them out of the way. Congratulations, your DRZ is now set up for the top end to come off. Off With It's Head Remove the valve cover. Don't lose the rubber gaskets under the valve cover bolt washers (remember those zip lock bags we spoke of ???) The valve cover gasket is rubber and re usable. Rarely are they found degraded or ruined in a job like this.. Upon install, you only need a pea sized dab of Three Bond or RTV silicone at the bottoms of the half moon part of the gasket. Remove the timing plugs from the stator cover, using a 17mm socket rotate the engine to TDC (just get it close, with the cam lobes not depressing the valve springs) (see Tech Article "Valve Clearance Check " for more information) It truly makes no difference if the engine is at TDC at this point, as the cams are coming out and will need to be re timed to the crank.... Just make sure that before you loosen the cam cap bolts, the cam lobes are not depressing a valve. Remove Cam Chain Tensioner. If using an ACCT (shame on you ), relieve tension on the ACCT (cap and spring '03 and later, screw and then use a small flat blade screw driver to retract the plunger on prior years) prior to removing the two socket head cap screws and the CCT assembly. Remove the Cam Chain guide and the cam cap fasteners following the TQ sequence found in the service manual. NOTE: Take note of the different length cam cap bolts. You must re install them in the right locations. If you put a shot bolt in a position requiring a long one, you will pull the few threads that short bolt engages from the head. Requiring a thread repair before you can finish the BB install... Be careful not to drop the dowel pins used to locate the cam caps into the head. Sometimes they stay in the head, other times the come out with the cam cap, and occasionally, they do nether and fall off as you remove them... (yes, you can remove a DRZ engine from the frame , turn it upside down and shake it till a part falls free.. but it is not a recommended method 🤣 ) Remove the camshafts one at a time, they need to come up and towards the center of the head, the chain can then be removed from the sprocket. Use a long spring, piece of wire or zip tie to hold the chain up and secure as you remove the second cam.. It is not the end of the world if the chain falls down... you can easily retrieve it.. .. Just an added step. BUT keep in mind, if the chain does fall down in the motor, do not rotate the crank, the loose chain will bind up and damage the cases. Loosen the two nuts at the base cylinder (lower red circle) Remove the two bolts at the base of the head. (Upper right side red circle) Loosen the four cylinder head bolts using a sequence and procedure located in the service manual and then remove them. Notice the washers under the head bolts have a flat side to them. The flat side faces the head. NOTE: some of the Big Bore kits included copper washers for use on the head bolts; throw them away, re use the OEM steel washers Remove the cylinder head; if you tied up the cam chain, having a helper pass the cam chain through the head and wiring the cam chain back up is useful or just let it drop it's not going anyplace. Like the cam caps, the head has two hollow dowel pins, note the location and be careful not drop them in the engine. Set the head on a soft surface, wood, cloth, plastic. If you turn it over, the valve buckets and shims are likely to fall out. So either set it cylinder side down on a soft surface, or remove, bag and tag the buckets and shims for what position they came out of. You can now remove the front cam chain guide, and the two 10mm nuts at the base of the cylinder. Time to get that pesky cylinder off. Pull up on the cylinder about two inches, place a non lint rag around the connecting rod to secure the piston and to prevent objects from falling into the engine, then remove the cylinder the rest of the way. Remove the piston pin circlip using a small screwdriver or pick and throw it away so you are not tempted to re use it when one of your new clips gets lost and it's Sunday, and you want to ride..... This is where patience comes in. Push out the piston pin from the opposite side. Congratulations, your bike has been disassembled and is ready for the next step.. clean up.... Prep and clean up for the new TOP END Remove any remaining gasket residue from the head and case. Break clean and a soft rag will work, a hard plastic scraper helps.. a metal scraper can help or ruin your head... so if you use the razor blade type scraper, well just be careful. At this point I'll mention what you should have already decided,, Head and valve work... If your using a high hour or unknown condition used head.. it is strongly recommended you send it off to have new valves, springs and locks installed by a competent shop. OEM parts are fine in a stock to moderate build, if your wanting better stuff, seek the advice from a well known and respected shop. Prior to cleaning the head or sending it off, remove the valve buckets and shims (if not done already) place each in its own zip lock, mark it left or right, EX or IN. Clean the head bolt threads in the case and on the head bolts with a thread chase, wire brush and some solvent. Checking the ring gap I hesitated at adding this step to the article. 1st- because 99% of the time in a Big Bore Kit, it will never be needed. 2nd- because if the gap is wrong there is not much a home user can do except send back parts for correct replacements (filing rings for correct fitments is not a DIY first time builders task), 3rd- ring gap is different by manufacture, type of ring and piston material and several other tuner related opinions and ideal rule of thumb is .003-.004" per inch of bore. And lastly it is a more advanced procedure that if not done right can damage the rings and or result in errors of measurement.. Which will only confuse the end user and cause its own problems. Therefore, with that caveat; I do suggest checking the ring gap prior to installing the kit. You will need to know your ring and piston manufactures suggested ring gap and a high quality feeler gage set. Using the piston to square the rings in the top 3/4" or so of the cylinder measure the ring gap with a feeler gauge. NOTE: this picture is for illustration only. This is not DRZ cylinder and the ring is much further down then the recommended 3/4" If it falls in your manufactures specs, assemble and go. If it does not, but falls in the .003-.004" per inch of bore... I would suggest leaving it. If it's still measuring outside (tighter) then specs.... Take a break, double check everything is clean and try again... If still off.. call the supplier and get there recommended course of action. Filing rings is highly unlikely to be needed.. if yours simply do not fit it's more likely you have the wrong rings. talk with the manufacture or suppler before attempting to make them fit. Putting it back together Ok so everything is clean, you have your new cylinder ready, all cleaned up with hot soapy water, dried, piston and rings have been confirmed as correctly fitting the cylinder, gaskets ready,, Oh ya...gaskets... so what about this copper coating you hear about??? NOT NEEDED in most builds.. it is a band aid if used with damaged, dirty or incorrectly fitted parts.. .... BUT, copper coating the head gasket has proven useful in avoiding compression leaks on high CR builds (above 13:1) or larger then 94mm bores.... The common product is Permatex " Copper Coat High Temp Gasket Prep " spray. Use two light coats and let dry over night. You’re not going to hurt anything doing this on an otherwise properly prepped engine, it's just not really needed unless your upping the CR to or above 13:1 or have a larger then 94mm bore. Back together we go Base gasket: Two choices, single layer as comes stock on the 12.2:1 compression DRZ E, or three-layer gasket as comes stock on the S & SM. Each layer (gasket and spacer) are approximately .010" thick. While piston to head deck clearance is always, a concern when modifying any engine, all DRZ engines using a standard stroke crank and piston deck height can safely use a single layer gasket. Many BB kits, and replacement top end gasket sets will come with a three-layer gasket regardless of what model bike it was sold for. If yours came with a three-layer, and you wanted a single layer, no issue, you now have a spare. The three-layer gasket is held together with rivets. Simply snip off the rivets or drill them out, separate the layers. Top and Bottom are usable base gaskets.. the center layer is a just a spacer.. you can throw it away, it will not work as a gasket. Install of the piston can go one of two ways.. Install in the cylinder on the bench, then lower the assembly down to the rod and install the pin and circlip... OR install the piston on the rod, then slide the cylinder down onto the piston and case. I prefer the second method, others like the bench piston install. Using either method we recommend a "dry piston install" that refers to no oil on or near the rings. Place a thumb print sized oil spot on the piston skirt and lube the piston pin, that is it. Once you decide on a piston install method, degrease the rings and install on the piston, index them according to the diagram in the service manual. Install one piston pin circlip in the piston (on the side you will not be working from) Piston Ring install.. GENERAL Guidance -Grey thicker ring goes in the top groove. -Darker thick ring second groove. -Thin rings and expander go in third groove, 1 thin ring on top, 1 on bottom of the expander, Place expander in grove ensure the ends of the expander ring MEET.. Not overlap..place a thin ring on top of the expander, and one on the bottom. - All ring ends off set, but so long as they are not closely aligned, don’t get worked up and making them some perfect xx deg apart. - All markings face up. The spring wire circlip (red arrow) is used to keep the piston pin in place. A new circlip installed correctly in the piston pins groove will never causes a problem. However, if incorrectly installed, severe cylinder damage can result. Re using a clip, damaging it up install or not installing it correctly will likely result in something like this. A way to install the circlip is to position one end of the clip in the groove with the other end at 30deg. past the cut out (blue arrow). Now, using a very narrow flat blade screwdriver (I have one that I rounded over the sharp edges on, and use just for this purpose) lever the clip inward and into its groove. You will hear it snap into place if done correctly. Note: just in case you slip, cover the area under the piston's skirt with a rag to prevent the clip from falling down inside the engine Remember NEVER reuse a circlip and listen for the snap as the clip expands into its groove AND verify it visually on BOTH sides! Install the base gasket, piston and cylinder in the chosen method. Install the head gasket, and head (don’t forget those dowel pins). Using clean lightly oiled head bolt threads and the OEM steel washers, with the machined flat side toward the head, TQ the bolts following the sequence found in the service manual, with a final torque of 43 ft lb (yes that is higher then what the service manual says, we believe the misprint in the manual of 34 ft lb is just another mistake found and uncorrected in the written service manual) Notice we recommended using the OEM steel washers. Some of the earlier BB kits came with copper head bolt washers. DO NOT USE THEM. Re use the OEM steel washers. Check the valve clearances once the head is on. If the same cams were re used, likely nothing has changed. But better to check and not guess. Reinstall all the other components removed previously in reverse order. Drain the oil and change the filter for a new paper one. I prefer a paper disposable filter for first run use anytime the engine is opened. Foreign derbies that have gotten in are tossed with the paper filter that way. If you use a Stainless Steel filter, getting small bits of crud, gasket, dirt, what have you out of the filter medium are a pain and can result in damaging the filter medium. First start, Leak check and Break In Once you have it all buttoned up. Resist starting it till your ready to do the break in..... But when ready..Give it a start, while it's warming up for just a few seconds (just till you can feel some heat in the cylinder) do a good inspection for leaks. If none, begin your break in procedure. The gold standard is to do this on a Dyno where you can control all the variables. As most of us do not have a Dyno in the garage, we do the best we can on the street or track. How you break it in is a subject of debate. I'll point out ONE method that has proven to work well, shown no decrease of longevity over all in the engine and has proven many times over to result in very low (3% or less) cylinder leak down numbers. You need a riding area where you will be able to put the engine under full power spurts, no concerns for traffic, stop lights, Law enforcement officers... 🤣 After a warm up & leak check. Ride it, full power open the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear, no over revving, no sustained RPM limiter runs.. The idea is to fully load the rings under power and deceleration. This is NOT the "ride it like you stole it method" you may have read about. None of this is new or groundbreaking information; builders have done this for years. One builder decided to make a web page on this method and posted some about his results.. Have a look MotoMan do your research, and decide what break in method is your choice... Then go ride Once you have completed your first check ride, bring the bike back in to the work area, do a thorough leak check and double check for all fasteners to be tight. Change the oil and filter, using your standard type, brand if different then the suggested short use first start oil and filter. Check the frame filter screen as well, as it will trap large bits of crud if they somehow made it in your engine. Congratulations You just installed your new big bore kit, perhaps you added some Hot Cams now go ride it Thanks for looking, hope this helps folks along the way. As noted at the start of the article, this write up was not intended to be a standalone step by step walk though. It is expected that the viewer has a basic understanding of motorcycle mechanics, tools and their proper use and has an OEM service manual on hand for reference. On Line parts fiche are also very useful. I will edit this article as users find a particular trouble spot they wish help in. As always, if you have a picture that may assist another with a step or procedure shown, send me a PM. Likewise for any errors you might find. This article like all others I have written is biased... It is written as I would suggest doing the task. That does not make it the only way.
  23. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride!
  24. Since there is soo much talk about jetting DRZ400's with air box mods and exhaust mods I thought I would post my recent results. The mods to my new 2006 400SM went for the most part well.. Learned alot of lessons with my DRZ-400S .The mod part list is: Yoshimura 2165500-SA, DynoJet 3110.001, K&N SU-4000, assorted 4mm Allen head machine screws, and a MotoBits footpeg eliminator stolen from S model. Ebay has MotoBits kits avalible. 1. First I removed all the plastics, seat and tank; I also temporarily removed a couple of the factor zip ties to make room to work. 2. Remove TPS from carburetor, gas line; removed vacuum line from gas petcock, removed vacuum line from gas shut-off valve. 3. Removed throttle cables from carb. 4. Removed gas tank. 5. Loosened right heel guard and dismounted rear break reservoir from frame. 6. Removed bolts at lower frame holding rear fender assembly. 7. Loosened the clamp of the manifold side of the carburetor and the clamp at the rear which connects to the air-box. 8. Raise rear fender – I used an old cardboard box to hold it up in place. 9. Rotated carb and wrestled that booger and out! 10. Installed DynoJet stage two jet kit – 155 main, DynoJet needle (2nd clip from top) and slide spring – when I removed the bowl – I used a needle nose vice grips to break the screw loose – then threw the screws away and replaced them with 4mm Allen socket machine screws of the same length. 11. Drilled out idle mixture screw plug – set idle to 3 ½ turn out from bottom. 12. Re-installed carb - (Note: I also replaced the screws for the TPS with 4mm Allen head machine screws, washers and lock washers.) 13. Removed factory header, exhaust can and passenger foot pegs. 14. Installed new Yosh header pipe – left loose. 15. Separated and installed Yosh mid pipe. 16. Installed exhaust can; tossed the steel spacer and installed the new exhaust mount to the hole rear of the factory mount – I think the Yosh directions may be wrong. 17. Reattached the rear break reservoir and installed and tightened up all remaining frame and mount points, then tightened the header pipe at the engine exhaust, and reinstalled the factory heat shield to the mid pipe. 18. Cut a 3 inch square template from cardboard and drew lines on top of the air box with a grease pencil. 19. I then used a sheetrock knife heated up with a propane torch to cut the 3x3 hole in the top of the air box. 20. Removed stock air cleaner element and installed K&N filter. 21. Reinstalled tank, plactics and seat, cleaned exhaust system with Windex. 1st Test Run 22. Bike was difficult to start –needed full choke (man I should have learned from experience with the DRX 400S!) I finally got it start- but it ran like crap. 23. Run the bike up the street and promptly run out of gas. 24. Roll bike back to garage and do a visual inspection. 25. Put the vacuum line on the gas petcock 2nd Test run 26. Bike starts easily, idles wells and runs great… 27. Removed rubber inserts in footpeg, passenger strap in seat, front reflectors, trimmed rear fender and applied appropriate decals. Performed 1st Oil and Filter change (it had a 100 miles onthe bike.) If I left out some steps I apologize – but I think you can get the gist of things…
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