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Showing results for tags 'DrZ400Sm'.
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I just saw somebody with a drz400sm and he was making it popping like crazy, so i ask him how he did it and he replied with the killswitch. So can somebody please be kind enough and tell me how does it work,do you have to press it repeatedly or? #DrZ400Sm
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1. Compression & rebound are pretty self-explanatory. Compression is when the suspension collapses/compresses and rebound is when it extends/rebounds. Most dirt/trail/enduro/mx bikes have adjustable (to a degree) suspensions. Generally the external adjustments include: low-speed compression (on forks & shocks), high-speed compression (usually only shocks), low-speed rebound (on forks & shocks) and spring preload (on forks & shocks). Internally damping is adjustable via shim stacks, bleed ports, pistons, etc… Generally low-speed compression and rebound are adjusted with what are known as "clickers" (on the DRZ they look like flat-headed screws, with only the head visible). When you adjust them, you move a needle (right in image below) that sits within an orifice (left in image below). Under low-speed movement of the suspension, some of the fluid inside moves through these orifices. By adjusting the clicker "IN" (generally clockwise) you partially close off that orifice. The more you adjust "IN" the more it closes the orifice. By closing the orifice, it takes more energy for the fluid to pass through because essentially you are making the orifice or hole smaller. So for compression it makes the suspension collapse slower (feels firmer) and for rebound it makes the suspension extend slower. The inverse is true when you adjust the clicker "OUT". It's important to note, that the range of these clickers is limited. If you find yourself at the limits of their adjustment, then you need to revalve the suspension. Spring rate, is a way to quantify a spring and it simply means the amount of force it takes to compress the spring x amount of inches. So a stock DRZ400S/SM rear spring is 5.5 kg/mm, meaning it takes 5.5 kg of force to compress the spring 1 mm. If the spring is linear, then it'll take an additional 5.5 kg to compress another mm and so on (11 kg for 2 mm, 16.5 kg for 3 mm, etc…). 2. At 230 lbs you need firmer springs both for the shock and forks. That'll run you around $200, no adjustment will compensate for springs that are way too soft for your weight. And no, adding more preload is not the answer… Then as far as re-valving, if you're a DIY kind of guy, you can make changes to improve the damping (I did myself). You will however need a few shims to make those changes as the stock valving is very soft.
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EDIT "Rear hubs are all the same from 1992 to 2007 125 on up The 125s and 250s got the right hub as of 1990 but the bigger bikes didn't use them till 1992." KTM wheels FIT. I have had people asking me about this for quite some time now so I thought id throw this together. First YES KTM wheels fit. Rear hubs are all the same from 1990 to 2007 125 on up. Only difference is Cush drive or not and rim size. I now have 3 different KTM rear wheels that I run A 17” 18” and 19”. The 18” is from a 1995 LC4. The 19” is actually a tallen hub but its for a 2002 KTM 400. The 17 is from a 2004 4XX (don’t remember). I have take pics of all the different rear wheels on my bike to show. Notice that the 18” and 17” both have the cush drive hub. The spacers rotors and sprockets are all stock KTM. This is a direct bolt up fitment. Do note that the KTM rear rotor is the same size as a 400S/E 220mm. The 18” The 19” The 17”
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I like! -
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Yoshi RS2, 3x3, JD Jet kit. Really woke up the bike -
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:) -
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reliable -
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Third bike and second supermoto. So far it is my favorite bike. Thing is fun to ride on the streets and can touch dirt without exploding. Only problem is it's going to take up a lot of my money making it even better. -
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Perfect commuter bike and to have fun with. All the bikes you want in one. -
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Drz400sm 2006 3x3 jetted fmf powerbomb w q4 muffler -
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Over all very impressed with this bike. This bike is proof that engine displacement and fun of the ride are not directly related. Small engine, big fun. Only complaint so far is the lack of a kick started from factory, and more importantly the lack of 6th gear. Always find myself wanting one more gear on the highway. -
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Ask anyone who has ridden a DRZ, they will tell you it's a do it all machine. Weekdays a commuter, highway, city, cut through a park all in one bike. On the weekend you can rip up the track, or bushwack, your call. -
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Great, never let me down. -
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Love it. I Have street rims and trail rims for this ride. Mostly I dual sport with it though. -
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Have to get used to less power with the suzuki. The ktm was a beast. -
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mods: sp performance exhaust keihin fcr 39mm slant scottoiler v system suzuki rmz 450 front plate cree led flood & spot lights hel braided break lines zeta break line clamp zeta aluminium throttle tube zeta armour hand guards bend zeta xc protector oxford hot grips drc edge 2 tail light protaper profile clutch perch/lever carbon engine guards moose racing magnetic oil plug bar end mirror 3x3 mod twin air filter protaper gold hd x ring chain -
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Nice -
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She's a dream come true!
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