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Found 680 results

  1. Michael499

    Kawasaki KX250F (2013)

    0 comments

    The 2013 KX250fs have been very reliable. Aside from wheel & spoke and chain guide issues, the bikes have held up well to hours of use.
  2. fugishima

    kx 125 won't start

    So I was at the track last weekend and started my bike like normal, usually first kick, and rode it down to the other end of the parking lot to warm it up. All of a sudden it died and would not start. I brought it home and pulled the spark plug and it was fouled pretty bad but I held it to the frame, not the engine, and it kept grounding out and not firing the gap. Did i mess up my electronics by grounding it to the frame and not the engine because now it will not spark at all. I am wondering if I should buy a flywheel puller and check the stator. I had the coil checked and it has resistance. I am wondering if I blew out my cdi or what. PLEASE HELP!!!
  3. Just fitted a polisport headlight and it's useless!! Any idea how to brighten this baby up? Xr400 2003, mikuni pumper, yoshimura rs3 offroad, sm and offroad setup, crf front and rear fenders
  4. I want to fit a trailtech vapor to my DRZ but can't decide whether to get the trailtech dash with the lights or to get the billet aluminium mount and seperate the idiot lights and remount them. Is this possible. How do you seperate the idiot lights? Any views. It is an Australain DRZ so wiring may be different. How hard is it to wire up the idot lights on the trailtech dash. I was reading that diodes may be required. Advice would be very much appreciated. Cheers.
  5. Dose anyone know if it's possible to hard wire an iPhone charger on an MX bike? Bike is 2007 CRF 450R? If you have a link for a source that would be awesome.
  6. casualrider1994

    Headlight for 2002 KX500

    Has anyone put a headlight on their KX500? Is there a good kit to use? I have looked around some and cant seem to find anything. Also I dont need tail lights or turn signals.
  7. okay73

    Stator output normal?

    In my other thread, I'm describing my pig dies on me. Today I swapped the ignition coil, and still it looks the same. Haven't driven yet though. I did measure the voltage output coming from the stator. When cold and idle it produced some 90volts. When revving it up a bit, the voltage went down... Also, when the engine ran longer, it seemed to go down as well. Is this normal, or did my 7months old stator die on me?
  8. BRX-WRX

    Voyager install on 13 150SX

    I used the mount that comes with the protector. The one that uses the frt number plate mount hole, but I had to fab a bracket to raize it 1and forth inch to clear top of number plate. Now I need a front brake line that is 2inch longer to reach over top of computor. It will snag top as is after compressing forks. Any body know what brake line I need ? I also mounted the external antanna on the rear fender by the back of seat. Line needs to be 2inch but no more than 3 inch Longer. Thank You MB
  9. brianhare

    Honda XR650L (2001)

    0 comments

    The bike is under powered,but can be improved upon by engine mofifications....a Kehin FCR MX definately wakes up the performance..
  10. rick james1

    xr 650l performance CDI box

    does anyone know where to get a performance cdi for a 2001 xr 650l,or has anyone installed one and is there a difference in performance? is it worth it and what cdi do you recommend. any info will be appreciated
  11. fordman01

    Big Dog Bulldog (2001)

    0 comments

    Will this stop the popup now?
  12. question for my new friends.... .....do i have to move or remove the gas tank to remove the spark plug? Or should i be able to squeeze my hand in there and remove the boot and get a socket wrench to remove it without doing any of that?
  13. Many new technologies are maturing every year and for motorcyclists, one big change coming is the way we power our bikes…because there’s a new option when picking batteries and it’s called Lithium-iron phosphate. In this article, we compare & contrast the key differences between the standard, "tried and true" lead acid battery and newer Lithium-iron phosphate units. Hopefully we'll help you answer the question of what's the right battery for your needs and budget. Maybe you already know and we'll just confirm this or possibly challenge some conclusions? Click on to the next page to see what we learned... Next page: How Do They Work? HOW DO THEY WORK? We are discussing two types of batteries here, Lead Acid and Lithium-iron phosphate (specifically the Shorai LFX Lithium-iron Battery Series), so let’s take a look at how each one works: LEAD ACID Italian physicist Count Alessandro Volta (where the term “Volt” comes from) first created a simple battery from metal plates and brine-soaked cardboard or paper in 1799…and the basic technology hasn’t strayed too far from that original design. Lead Acid batteries are now manufactured with a hard plastic shell containing small compartments that hold both conductive plates (positive and negative) as well as acid (electrolyte) normally in groups of six. Sometimes these have external packages of electrolyte solution that you add and then charge the battery and some are sealed with the solution already installed. Simply put, these lead plates are coated with either lead calcium (positive plates) or lead antimony (negative plates) which reacts with the electrolyte solution (normally sulfuric acid) in what’s known as an “electro-chemical reaction” that causes the plates to create electrical energy. LITHIUM-IRON PHOSPHATE Lithium-iron phosphate batteries are also manufactured with a plastic shell, but inside it’s quite different than the Lead Acid type. Inside the case, they contain both positive and negative electrodes as well as electrolyte, but the electrolyte normally a non-aqueous chemicals like ethylene carbonates and various lithium salts. The electrodes are made from different materials. The positive electrodes are generally made from layered oxide or phosphate, while the negative electrodes are generally made from graphite. Also inside you’ll find a separator which is a sheet of very thin micro perforated plastic and it splits the electrodes while allowing ions to pass through. When this battery type charges, Lithium-ions move through the electrolyte from positive electrode to the negative electrode and during discharge this process is basically reversed. Next page: How Long Do They Last? HOW LONG DO THEY LAST? LEAD ACID Lead Acid battery life differs due to environmental elements including excessive heat and humidity. Battery industry pundits claim that a lead acid motorcycle battery can last five years if cared for properly and in ideal environmental conditions, but that’s not the real world. With lead acid batteries, letting them lose their charge fully can cause harmful sulfation and the battery may not fully recover. In our experience, if you are using your motorcycle three to four times per week nine months out of the year, keeping it fully charged and you keep it on a battery tender device in the off-season, you should see battery life of two to three years. Lead Acid batteries favor colder, dryer climates, so riders in areas with this type of weather may see even longer battery lives. LITHIUM-IRON PHOSPHATE (Shorai LFX) According to Shorai, their Lithium-iron phosphate batteries do not sulfate while sitting and do not suffer the chemical degradation (sulfation) that is common with lead acid batteries. Conditions that will shorten the Lithium-ion phosphate battery life include batteries sized too small for load conditions/wrong bike and failure to maintain the proper voltage when the battery is not being used. Lithium-iron phosphate batteries can outperform and outlast traditional lead acid batteries under lab test conditions, with some examples showing the LFX Lithium-iron phosphate battery can provide more than 2000 cycles during 80% DOD (depth of discharge) testing, as opposed to 500-800 cycles for lead acid batteries under the same conditions. So in theory, the LFX Lithium-iron phosphate battery should last from two to four times longer than the lead acid battery. Next page: What Is The Required Maintenance? WHAT IS THE REQUIRED MAINTENANCE? LEAD ACID Lead acid batteries don’t like heat, humidity or to be discharged fully…so don’t let them go dead while sitting in your bike in that hot garage. In fact, letting the voltage drop below 12.4 volts can result in lower battery life in general, so if you aren’t riding, make sure to use a “smart” trickle charger like the units from Battery Tender. We’ve seen riders “top up” their batteries with spare electrolyte or distilled water. This can help with efficiency and maintaining maximum output but over time using distilled water will just dilute the whole mixture and thereby lose its effectiveness. Tip: For long term storage of lead acid batteries, we remove the battery from the bike and put it in a cool, dry section of our workshop attached to the battery tending device. LITHIUM-IRON PHOSPHATE You can’t “top up” a Lithium-iron phosphate battery with electrolyte so it’s important to monitor the voltage and charge as necessary to keep the resting voltage above 13.1 volts. While standard lead-acid chargers can be used with most Lithium-iron Phosphate batteries when needed, most manufacturers make a charger that is specifically designed to charge, store and maintain the specific product type used. Tip: When storing a Lithium-iron phosphate battery, it should be disconnected from the vehicle, fully charged to ~14.4 volts and then it can sit for up to 1 year before recharging. Storing in cool, dry environments is preferred for lithium batteries. Next Page: Weight Savings and Performance WEIGHT SAVINGS AND PERFORMANCE Lithium-iron phosphate batteries have shown the ability to operate at a higher voltage range than the typical lead acid battery during cranking, resulting in quicker start times. Some Lithium-iron phosphate batteries can be up to 80 percent lighter than their lead acid equivalents. This saves an average of 2-3 lbs. for dirt bikes, 6-8 lbs. for street bikes and 10-20 lbs for touring and cruiser bikes. The difference in weight was even larger for our Honda XR650L as the recommended Shorai LFX19A4-BS12 battery (2.31lbs) is lighter than the lead-acid Yuasa YTZX9-BS (5.4lbs) specified for the bike by a whopping 3.1lbs…that’s huge. We all know that weight savings is the Holy Grail when it comes to high performance motorcycles and many riders spend thousands on lightweight components like titanium fasteners and carbon fiber bits for their bikes, but it takes a lot of expensive lightweight parts to add up to the weight savings stated when using a Lithium-iron phosphate battery and we consider this to be one of the best (and most inexpensive) ways to reduce weight on your motorcycle. These Lithium-iron phosphate batteries are surprisingly much smaller than their lead acid equivalents, and this caused some dismay when they were first released and the battery was loose in the battery tray/carriers on some bikes…but now many manufacturers include some adhesive-backed foam padding to take up the excess room. Next Page: Environmental And Temperature Considerations ENVIRONMENTAL AND TEMPERATURE CONSIDERATIONS Typical lead acid batteries quote their normal operating range as 14 -140 F while Lithium-iron phosphate units quote this range as 20 -140 F, so not a huge difference there, but what happens when temperatures drop below the recommended range? LEAD ACID When a lead acid battery is used below 14 degrees F, the battery’s ability to discharge current will decrease because low temperatures slow down the chemical reaction inside. Lower cranking amperage means less power to turn over your engine, which can be even harder to crank than in normal temperatures, due to thicker oil viscosity depending on oil type and grade used. This phenomenon can be compensated with somewhat by using a battery with the highest CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) and AHr (Ampere-Hour) rating correct for your application, because under actual cranking conditions they will deliver considerably less than specified capacity. Why? Because lead acid begin sulfating when only a small percentage of the capacity has been used, and their internal resistance rises as they are discharged, the actual capacity which can be used may be as little as 20% of the printed rating. LITHIUM-IRON PHOSPHATE At lower temperatures the output of the Lithium-iron phosphate battery is also adversely affected and it’s recommended that battery is fully charged after storage to improve performance in cold weather. The good news is that Lithium-iron phosphate battery cells are capable of 80% discharge without damage and while retaining higher cranking output. As such, the actual usable capacity can be on par with 18AHr-rated lead acid batteries while providing higher cranking performance and a reduction in weight. There is a recommended procedure that can help compensate for the cold weather reduction in performance when using a Lithium-iron phosphate battery: Turn on your headlight because it helps output for the battery to flow some current before cranking in cold weather. The suggested headlight-on time before cranking depends on the temperature. If starting at 40F/5C, 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at 0F/-17C, leave the lights on for 4-5 minutes before cranking and thee result will be a better first crank and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger. Other accessories that can be turned on before cranking can also be used for this purpose, such as heated gear, GPS, etc. Next Page: How Much Do They Cost? HOW MUCH DO THEY COST? We priced two batteries for our 2015 Honda XR650L - the Yuasa lead acid unit with 135 CCA was $92, while the Lithium-iron phosphate battery with 285 CCA’s was $189, so you’re paying for the higher cranking performance (almost double the CCA’s) as well as much lighter weight. Next Page: What Did We Conclude? SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION Although Lithium-iron phosphate battery technology is fairly new, it has significant benefits and few drawbacks at this point in its development. Advantages of the Lithium-iron phosphate batteries include dramatically lighter weight, higher cranking amperage ratings per size of the unit, intelligent charging mechanisms and much less chance of corrosive material spillage. The one disadvantage in this author’s mind would be the increased cost. In conclusion, yes, we believe that Lithium-iron Phosphate battery technology is, except for cost considerations, “better” than the standard lead-acid battery and will be the Grim Reaper that makes lead-acid batteries obsolete as we move forward in time. Have a burning question or need to inform us that we've missed something? Hit us up in the comment section below. We want to hear your thoughts & experiences on this topic!
  14. 3 reviews

    This complete fender elimination system will remove your bulky stock fender and give your DRZ a new trimmed down, sleek appearance.
  15. Im new to this site I look forward to any help , ok so I am the new owner of an 06 rm250, my first 250 2 stroke ever and im 38 I am not new to 2 strokes or 4 strokes but never had a 250 2 stroke and I took it out today and what a ripper this thing is , the bike is very clean it has a rekluse clutch asv break away levers ect ect , so my first question is #1 what spark plugs do you recommend ? #2 the clutch engaged slightly even with the lever pulled in , if I start it with the clutch pulled in it jumps a little but not enough to take off and when stopped same thing not enough to take off but I feel it pulling very slightly . #3 mix oil im using klotz , recommend better ? #4 what ratio right now I mixed 40:1 #can anyone decode the crank case number and vin ? I found and old thread and it showed how to decode the vin for the year thanks very much for all your help . I uploaded a couple pics .and thanks 06 rm250 mods showa rear spring showa forks procircut pipe and can gpi radiators and hoses recluse clutch asv levers v force reeds keihin carb renthal bars
  16. euroble

    Stator Damaged

    Hey everyone I'm having some stator problems and I'm getting frustrated at this point. I'm on my 2nd stator now and it has the same/similar problem as the 1st stator that broke. First stator had continuity to ground. Second stator didn't; however, after inspection the yelow wires coming from the stator that are hovering right over the flywheel magnets were halfway severed. Also on the first stator it looks like the outside wall of it was melted but it looks more like something was cutting into it somehow. the second stator also had this on the outside wall but it isn't as severe. The inside of the flywheel is also completely smooth. I've attached some pictures of both stators and my flywheel I'm pretty desperate for answers, I can't keep affording to have a stator keep getting damaged. The new stator is about 2-3 months old at this point too.
  17. I have never owned any type of helmet camera, and I decided it's finally time to get one. I want something that is very easy to use on the go/during rides, pictures/video are easy to transfer to computers/online/smart phone, and is upgradeable. I was wondering if the original Hero that is currently offered by Go Pro has everything I need, or if I should spend the extra money to get one of the Hero3 editions or new Hero4. I don't really need a bunch of crazy features like wifi, but if GoPro's add-on touch screen fits the base Hero model I would want that. I just want something that will easily get quality video and pictures to my computer and smart phone. Also, are the GoPro mounts that stick on helmets easy to remove and leave any kind of glue on the surface?
  18. I now use a lavalier microphone on all my rides to capture a better sound track and to be able to hear what my buddies are saying. Only downfalls I found is that it is a little more difficult to take my helmet off and it is only water resistant, not water proof.
  19. DesertRacer2

    Tusk Dual Sport Kit

    Anyone know where I can purchase one? They seem to be sold out EVERYWHERE......... Why the sudden surge in sales?? Thanks guys.
  20. I live in ohio and I want to start riding dual sports but I have very little knowledge about them. Is it one big loop? Will I run out of gas? Is there a place to get gas? I hoping someone could give me a quick jist of what to expect. Thank you guys!
  21. After vacillating between KTM and Husqvarna, and between 350's and 500's (501's), and between EXC's, FE's, and XC-F's, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a 500 XC-F, and kit it up for light dual sporting the way I want it. I ride up in the Puget Sound region of Washington state, with some trips over to the East side. I'm a 51 year old who's been riding since he was 15. I wanted a kickstarter, as that was the biggest failing on my previous '09 505XC-F. Nothing like being 50 miles in the bush and hear your battery start to wind down. This even though I had an '06 Husqvarna TE510 for five years and NEVER ONCE used the kick starter. I almost bought the 500 EXC, but at the last minute the last one in stock nearby was sold, and that made me stop and look around. When I coupled that with the knowledge that it seems like it needs some uncorking, and I had also read you SHOULDN'T uncork it, made me figure, "meh, buy the dirt version, plate it, and forget all about corks!". I have read a lot of positive things about the 350's, but I'm a big guy, and have plenty of experience with big bikes (YZ465's, CR500's, XR650R's, 430 XC, TE510, YZ450f, and 505 XC-F, & so on). Given that, I felt I'd be more at home with the 500 vs. the 350. So today I committed to buy one from my trusty dealer for a good price. I have enough coin, that I'm not worried about the "It would have been cheaper to buy an EXC" argument. I want it my way. I plan on swapping some DOT tires (probably a trials tire in the rear), adding a blinker, horn, and mirror kit, a nice cushy seat, and letting the fun begin. I might add a Core EXP Rekluse down the road, which I had on the 505, and YZ450, and liked, but the KTM clutches are so smooth, it's almost a shame replacing them. It can wait. I'm also toying with the idea of an 8" race light, like I had on my old XR, but am not sure how much stator output the 500 produces, how much is needed for the EFI, etc. and if I should go with LED, HID, or halogen. Thinking about the Cyclops Rally with LED's. I know that's not really DOT approved, but I'll worry about that down the road. Interested in seeing what people here recommend for a bright offroad light for these bikes. That's my story. Recommendations? Exhaust? Jetting? I see lots of info here on the EXC, but damn little on the XC-W...I'm assuming that's because it's perfect.
  22. nmoysaenko

    Spark plug going bad fast

    Hey I have a 2004 crf250r and I just replaced the spark plug and had an oil change and the spark plug seems to be bad again. Anybody know what can cause a spark plug to go bad so fast I haven't even put an hour on the new plug
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