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Found 776 results

  1. Hey guys, been a frustrating day here and i do apologize if I'm posting in the wrong area. I'm more of a lurker to the point that i had to make a new account to even post here at all. My 74 honda xl350 blinkers and running lights don't work. Got a new battery and had it charged, checked all bulbs to be not blown and correct 6 volts, checked the one fuse this bike has and cleaned all the grounds i can find, can't find the frame ground anywhere, took apart and cleaned the blinker switch (also getting no power) verified that no blinkers/running lights are getting any power, and I'm losing my damn mind trying to figure this out. The only function I DO have is the high beam (indicator also not working, low beam burnt out) and the brake/aft running light. Any suggestions? I have a manual and I've been staring at a wiring diagram all day and I'm more confused than ever.
  2. For Many of the CRF electric owners or anyone who has used the X model taillight, it has probably gone out on you. Well I have an easy fix to save the cost of a new one just by replacing the resistor's in the lights. By my judgement, Honda used two 100 ohm resistors to create the necessary resistance which is about 20 ohms too little by calculations. They would burn out and make the light useless. I have an easy, inexpensive fix for about 5 dollars, and if your LED's are still good it's only about 1 dollar. There are two ways to do this, one is two go with the stock system with 2 100ohm resistors, or you can just use 1 220ohm resistor. If you do the stock system you will need four 100 ohm 1/8 watt resistors. If you do the other choice you need two 220 ohm resistors. What You Will Need: All of these parts you can get at RadioShack which is the only place I know of to get stuff like this 1) 4 White LED's 3.3V 25mA (If LED's still work you won't need them 2) Option A) 4 100ohm 1/8watt resistors Option đź‘Ť 2 220ohm 1/4watt resistors 3)Utility Knife 4)Soldering Iron 5)Rosin Core Solder 6)Philips Screw Driver 1) Here are the resistors and LED's you can buy from radioshack. Choose which way you want to go with on the resistor's and you'll buy just those. Each pack of resistor's is only 99 cents and the LED's are 2 dollars for a pack of 2. 2) Set your Light out on your work area. You will want to remove the terminals from the clip and slide the protective tubing down or completely off of the wires. Take a utility knife and not going anymore than about 1/8" down seperate the black pastic from the clear red lens. It's not going to pop off just by cutting it because there is a lip that goes into the housing. 3) Hopefully you can do this step without breaking the plastic. I had no problems and hopefully you won't either. Take a couple pair of pliers (preferably crescent wrenches) and position them about how I have them. Pry one pair of pliers in a scissors action and hopefully you can separate the two pieces. 4) Now the pieces are separated. You can see the lip I was talking about. Hopefully you were able to make it to this step with no breaking. 5) Now remove the two screws that hold the board onto the housing. 6) As You can see the two resistor's are burnt to a crisp. There's also melted plastic pegs that they use to help hold the board down even more. You will need to break the board away from the housing. 7) Take a screwdriver and pry the board up to break the board away from the housing but don't break anything. Using your soldering iron to melt the plastic and then pry it off might be a safer way. 8) Now pull the board away and pull the wires thru the grommet to get yourself some more room to work with. 9) Here's the back of the board. If you look closely you can see how the routing goes. It uses two series, using two LED's in a series. The positive volts goes in thru the diode (the black device in the very middle of the board) thru one LED to the next LED than thru the resistor's and to the ground. If anyone wants a good drawing of the routing just ask and I'll get one. 10) Now take your soldering iron and start removing the resistor's. Heat up the solder on one side and use needle nose pliers to work it free. 11) Make sure you pay attention to how the LED's are sitting in the board. You want to install the new one's in the same direction. 12) Here's everything out on one side. I recommend doing one side so you don't mess up how the LED's are sitting in the board. 13) I'm using the single 220 ohm resistor so my replacement will be different. If you do the double 100 ohm resistor's just install them just how they were originally 14) Get the solder hot enough and mess with a bit to get the holes to open back up. This will be much easier than trying to heat up the solder and push the resistor and LED through while keeping the solder warm. 15) Here's the one new LED and the 220ohm resistor installed. Since I'm using the larger resistor you will need to leave enough wire so you can twist it enough to be just as wide as the board. If it sticks out further than the board then it will hit the lens when you reassemble it. 16) Here's two new LED's Installed on one side and the resistor. 17) I hooked up the wire's to a power source and TADA!!!! It has lights!!! 18) Finish up the other side and now you should have all four lights working 19) Pull the wire's back through the grommet and screw the board back into the housing. You can try to melt the plastic pins back to the board if possible but probably not necessary. If you did a nice clean job it should look just like it's factory. 20) Like I said make sure if the resistor isn't wider than the board so it will clear the lens. 21) Super glue the lens back on. The lens has a slight curve to it so it has only one way to go back on so it's hard to get it back together wrong. Use rubber bands to hold it together or some sort of clamps that won't break it. Once your done it should look good as new.
  3. 1 review

    Task Racing has created a great package for ease of use on ALL bikes. No stator power or rewind necessary, and can be transferred to ANY bike easily and quickly in seconds. Motocross bikes, Enduro bikes, Trail bikes, old bikes, new bikes---it doesn't matter! Can be mounted to 2 stokes, 4 strokes, ATV's/UTV's, Snowmobiles, Tractors, etc.--- all with one light! Super Universal!!!! Each lighting system is easily transferable to your NEXT bike too! One 12V 2.6+Hr rechargeable Li-Ion battery, one battery charger. Strong Stainless Steel mount tab design. 2 Bolts and a plug! Easy Mount On/Off bike in seconds! Tough T6 aluminum exterior, with strong lexan plastic cover Can be tightened down and adjusted up and down to point light where you need it ON THE FLY. Custom adjustment. Includes mounting directions, Extra Extension Spacers and bolts for brake line clearance, and Task Racing stickers. 12 LED Design. Pattern: 12 Spot Beams in the Middle. 35 Watts of Power. Super Bright. 3100 lumens http://www.taskracing.com/universal-6--light-bars.html https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1195/62205/Task-Racing-Universal-Rechargeable-Battery-Light-Bar-Package?term=task+racing+lights
  4. 3 reviews

    DRC Edge2 Tail Light: 16 high-intensity red LEDs are used for the tail / stop light, and 3 white LEDs for illuminating the license plate. Reduces electric power consumption. Offers a longer operating life. Detachable lens. Lens colors available: red and smoke. Plug type terminals are included for installation. Works on 12V AC/DC. 12 O'clock Labs Upgrade Processor Board: 5 user selectable turn signal patterns Automatic safety brake pulsing with Enable / Disable Superbright LED's; over 560,000mcd light output at maximum brightness Lower current draw than a standard bulb; with an average 4.65watts at full brightness. Includes 34 inch pre-attached wiring harness Includes 30 inch wire harness jacketing 3 year product replacement warranty Made in the USA This unit gives programmable integrated turn signals to the Edge / Edge2 tail light, as well as safety brake pulsing, a drop in replacement for the OEM led board, the unit also has brighter led's than the stock edge2 board, and is designed with 500,000 life hour capacitors for exceptionally long life operation. The upgrade board is designed to replace DC voltage tail lights (most are DC). If your tail light operates from AC voltage, you can move your tail light supply wires to be feed after the regulator / rectifier on your motorcycle, or add any aftermarket voltage regulator / rectifier.
  5. 2 reviews

    DESCRIPTION Universal type comes with bullet connectors to wire in manually, other listed types come with factory connectors to make install easier by plugging into the factory harness turn signal connectors. This device is universal; designed to work for any motorcycle with a DC electrical system (such as Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, etc) (There are a few KTM & Husqvarna enduro models that do not use DC for the turn signals, but can be modified to use DC) This devices allows any two wire after market LED turn signal indicators to operate as running lights (always on), and will blink on / off when the turn signal switch is activated. It is highly recommended to use this product with the 12oClockLabs Fixed Rate Turn Signal Flasher. This device, as well as aftermarket turn signals, use much less current than stock turn signals, thus an increased flash rate will occur. Load resistors or a fixed rate turn signal flasher will get your flashers operating at the normal flash rate again. Package contains one duel adapter (meaning you can operate both front turn signals; left and right, with just purchasing one adapter kit) FEATURES Works with any two wire after market LED turn signal indicator. Designed to work for any motorcycle with a DC electrical system. All Solid State design. Designed for DC electrical systems (most are). One duel output running light adapter per package (for front Left /Right turn signals).
  6. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION Universal AC Voltage Regulator Improved AC Regulator with Adjustable Output. Universal voltage regulator limits voltage to 12.0-16.0 volts for AC systems (DC systems require a regulator/rectifier.) Conditions circuit to eliminate electrical spikes, protect from lamp blow-outs, and reduce flicker and dimming. •“Dial-a-Brightness” for halogen and quartz lights: At 14+ VAC setting, the lamps will approach HID lumens (~70%) but lamp life is short (good for racing.) ~25 hour lamp life. At standard setting, about 13.8 VAC, the lamps should last about 500 hours. At minimum setting, the lamps are not as bright as HID (~30%), but last over 1,000 hours. Included in Trail Tech plug-and-play high-output AC electrical systems with model-specific connectors; no cutting or splicing required. Designed and manufactured by Trail Tech.
  7. 0 reviews

    DETAILS Don't be deceived by its looks. It may be a bit homely but this ugly duckling is a superstar. The exclusive Happy Trails WOW LED Taillight System transforms your KLR650 to the safest bike on the block. It is routinely blinding: during testing staff members grew accustomed to being temporarily blinded (like looking at a camera flash). We kid you not! Both lights are brilliant, both the taillight and the brake light are exponentially improved to a startling degree. The light installs in seconds: unscrew the stock bulb screw in the adapter unit; the board mounts securely underneath the taillight lens cover. The WOW LED taillight system uses less power, is far brighter (both tail and brake), and is rated to last over 100,000 hours with no signal degradation. Fitment: fits all Kawasaki KLR650 (A or E series); customers report it also works in the KLX250s. Power usage comparison (14VDC engine running): Taillight: Stock 1157: 5 Watts vs WOW LED GEN II: 0.1 Amps/1.4 Watts 10 Candela taillight Brake Light: Stock 1157: 21 Watts vs WOW LED GEN II: .7 Amps/10 Watts 100 Candela brake light (Light brightness testing carried out using a Minolta T-10 light meter at 1 foot). Flash Pattern: The brake light comes with a built-in dip switch toggle to activate a 1.5-2 second (4 flash) alert flashing before a brilliant steady brake beam or a brilliant steady beam (without flashes). Notes: Full brightness is not realized unless the bike is running and producing the full normal 14V. To disable the flashing mode slide both switches to the "off" position (switches are tiny toggles on the circuit board.) If your installation causes a small gap between the tail-light lens and gasket, remove a small amount ( about 1/16") of material from the taillight mounting posts with a small file or rotary tool. This will let the lens seal tight and keep water out. The brake light circuit on the WOW taillight requires an active and working taillight to function. Consequently, if you have a headlight cut-off switch that also eliminates the taillight the brake light will not work. Also, the WOW taillight cannot be bench-tested. It must be installed so that both the tail and brake light circuits are active. Dimensions: The light is about 1 1/4" deep, from the top of the mounting posts to the back side of the circuit board. The circuit board is 1 5/8" wide, and 2 5/8" wide. The maximum width on the installation holes is 3 1/4 while the minimum width is 2 7/8".
  8. 3 reviews

    BAJA DESIGNS FEATURES Satisfactions Guarantee: 30 Day Money Back Guarantee Limited Lifetime Warranty: Complete Purchase Protection uService®: Replaceable Lenses And Optics ClearView®: All The Light, Right Where You Need It. MoistureBlock™: Waterproof, Rain Proof, Submersible CopperDrive®: Only LED Driven At 100% 5000K Daylight: Less Driver Fatigue, Natural Color SPECIFICATIONS Lumens: 4,900 Utilizing 4 Cree XP-L LEDs Wattage/Amps: 40W / 3.33A Dimensions: 4.43" x 3.65" x 4.43" Weight: 2.45 lbs LED Life Expectancy: 49,930 Hours Front Lens: Hardcoated Polycarbonate Housing: Hard Anodized & Powder Coated Cast Aluminum Bezel: Billet Machined Aluminum Hardware & Bracket Material: Stainless Steel Exceeds MIL-STD810G (Mil-Spec Testing) Built-In Overvoltage Protection IP69K (Waterproof up to 9ft & Pressure Washable) IK10 Compliant (Mechanical Impact Testing)
  9. 1 review

    PRODUCT INFORMATION This is an H4 halogen replacement head lamp bulb with a blue coating on it to give a whiter colored light output. While the part name says "superbright" it really is not brighter. It is just whiter in color. The whiter color may make you more visible but you get what you pay for in brightness. It's still a halogen lamp not an LED lamp. Works great as a replacement lamp - which is what it should be considered. Definitely not an upgrade to a stock light. The photo: In the attached photo the stock lamp is on the left and the Drag Specialties H4 Superwhite on the right. The sky outside was overcast and did get a little darker after I changed to the new bulb. I also had the garage door behind me open for both shots so there's more ambient lighting in the stock photo. H4 style plug Superwhite bulbs use a special blue filter coating to produce a whiter, brighter light The heavy duty bulb is recommended where severe vibration exists
  10. 1 review

    Color Touchscreen GPS/GLONASS Handheld with Preloaded TOPO Maps > 2.6-inch color capacitive touchscreen > 3-axis tilt-compensated compass and barometric altimeter > GPS and GLONASS satellites for faster positioning > 250,000 preloaded geocaches from Geocaching.com > Preloaded TOPO U.S. 100K maps with extra internal memory to hold more maps eTrex Touch 35t is a compact, rugged and reliable GPS/GLONASS handheld with color touchscreen, preloaded TOPO 100K maps, dual GPS and GLONASS satellites positioning, 250,000 preloaded geocaches and wireless connectivity (ANT+®, VIRB® and smart notifications). With a 3-axis tilt-compensated electronic compass and barometric altimeter, you’re ready to navigate anywhere. More @ https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports/handheld/etrex-touch-35t/prod529595.html#gallery-dialog
  11. 1 review

    PRODUCT INFORMATION Eliminates the 9800 rpm rev limiter and provides a hotter advance curve. Eliminates the 9800 rpm rev-limiter of the OEM ignition Direct replacement for the OEM CDI ignition box Hotter advance curve
  12. 0 reviews

    SPECIFICATION For exterior and interior applications Easy replacement of the original incandescent bulbs Unique and modern look in a simple and cost-effective way Lifetime warranty High efficiency, reliable design with excellent thermal management Broad portfolio of parts and colors
  13. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION For exterior and interior applications Easy replacement of the original incandescent bulbs Unique and modern look in a simple and cost-effective way Lifetime warranty High efficiency, reliable design with excellent thermal management Broad portfolio of parts and colors Easy to install
  14. 2 reviews

    4 cell LiFe battery with Quick-Disconnect terminals FEATURES Pulse discharge @ 10 seconds = 120 Amps Continuous discharge (MAX) = 70 Amps Cycle Life (DoD spec) = 1,000 cycles Dimensions (L x W x H) = 10.5cm x 2.5cm x 7cm / 4.13" x 0.98" x 2.75" Weight = 337.36g / 11.9oz Rating = 2.3Ah Operational Temperature Range = -22 °F to +140 °F
  15. 1 review

    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION For closed course only Change the way the engine behaves with the flick of a switch. Quickly move between stock, mild and wild based on what the environment demands. Plugs in to stock connectors. Kill switch integrated. Comes in colors that match your bike.
  16. 1 review

    DESCRIPTION The most of the newer motorcycles come with a side stand switch to cut the ignition when the side stand is open. In some situations it can cut the ignition when you go over bumps with your enduro or supermoto or you go off-road with your motorcycle, also it wont let you start the engine if you have removed the side stand for trackday use. With the installation of this product: Remove the side stand switch easily without any cutting or splicing Remove the entire side stand for trackday or off-road use and reinstall it again quickly when you need to go back to road. Eliminate a faulty side stand switch This is a very high quality kit! We use only OEM connectors to ensure perfect fitment. Sophisticated production and high quality parts ensure top quality product This product is tested and developed for the listed motorcycle.
  17. 1 review

    FEATURES Adjustable odometer Speedometer with resettable peak speed mode CAP compass heading display GPS-based time-of-day clock New GPS updates 5x faster (5 updates per second) Almost instant "warm" satellite acquisition Resettable hour meter tracks maintenance intervals Resettable second trip odometer Supports kilometers and miles AutoCal™ automatically adjusts to match the route OdoQuick™ feature eliminates mode changes to check odometer while in CAP mode New OdoPause™ feature makes adjustments easier while moving 180° vertical viewing angle Large, sharp contrast digits 11 helpful icons improve ease of use Adjustable backlight has night mode (dim) and day mode (bright) Auto shut off after 2 hours of no activity Total lifetime distance stored into permanent memory Includes aluminum bracket for mounting computer to handlebar clamps Requires a hard-wired connection to the motorcycle's 12V battery Small GPS receiver can be mounted almost anywhere with a zip-tie 12 month warranty
  18. BannerUp

    GPS Procedures

    HOW TO USE A GPS ON YOUR BIKE AND AT YOUR COMPUTER Step-by-Step Procedures for Garmin/Mapsource INTRODUCTION... Before we get into the step-by-step procedures, let's clarify the differences between tracks and routes. It's easy to say that routes consist of waypoints and that tracks consist of trackpoints, but that doesn't help you and me understand how we experience those differences at our computers and on our bikes. The following does, and after you read it, you'll understand why the procedures below focus on tracks, not routes... At the Computer... In Mapsource, it's easy to create a new route with the Route tool, or a new track with the Track Draw tool. You can distinguish one track from another on your computer screen by selecting a different color for each track in the file. You cannot colorize routes. It's easy to determine the total distance of a track or route, or the distance between one trackpoint and another, but not easy to determine the distance between one waypoint and another. It's easy to edit a route by moving the waypoints to a new location, but you can't move trackpoints, so it's more difficult to edit a track. TopoFusion does not have this limitation. It's easy to adjust the number of trackpoints in a track to accomodate the maximum for your gps, but not easy to adjust the number of waypoints. You have to split large routes into two or more smaller ones, or delete the waypoints sequentially, in groups or one by one. You can't (easily) convert a route to a track or a track to a route, but Topofusion easily does both. On the Bike... Most gps units can store 10 times more trackpoints than waypoints. The eTrex, for example, can store 10,000 trackpoints, but only 500 waypoints. It's usually better, therefore, to use tracks rather than routes for long rides, or for rides with lots of intersecting roads and trails. You can break the ride into several tracks without exceeding the maximum for your gps, and still have relatively small distances between one point and another. That means you can stay closer to the intended course, and not miss turns. Trackpoints do not clutter the gps display -- waypoints do. STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURES... 1 - Somebody sends you a fun course and you want to check it out this weekend Launch Mapsource and open the gps file you plan to use for your ride Compare the total distance of the route to your bike's range Compare the total number of waypoints to the maximum for your gps Use the map tool to select the map quadrants that cover your route Transfer the route, waypoints and map quadrants from your computer to your gps Mount the gps on your bike, turn it on, then wait for it to lock onto the satellites Turn on your tracklog function and set it to every 0.1 miles Setup your gps so your current direction of travel is up Press ENTER on your gps and store your position as CAMP Activate the track, and set it for navigation to the end Select COMPASS mode, and follow the big arrow blindly... 🙂 Or Map mode and follow your course in relation to map details Monitor trip distance, speed and next waypoint while you ride Try different ZOOM IN/OUT settings as you approach and exit turns Continue following the track to its end, then stop navigation Transfer the tracklog of your ride from your gps to the computer Compare the tracklog of your ride to your original route Attach your ride to an email and share it with your other gps buddies 2 - You’ve scouted a fun course and want to make a track from the tracklog Connect your gps to the serial or USB port on your computer Launch Mapsource, click Transfer, then Receive Click the Tracks tab, then double click the tracklog name Click Filter on the Track Properties box, then click Max Points Enter 250 (or the max for your gps) and click OK Right click tracklog name, then click Track Properties Click Track Name, insert a name you'll remember, and save 3 - You want to retain the resolution of the original tracklog Do not save the tracklog as a saved track in your gps! Download it from your gps, but do not filter it! Rename it to something like Fun-Ride-Log Split log into two or more tracks with 250 trackpoints each... Method 1 => Click Tools => Track Split, then click anywhere on the track Move pointer to first place where a split is to occur, then click Continue selecting split points along the path of the route Save each with a name like Fun-Ride-1, Fun-Ride-2 and so forth Method 2 => Double click Fun-Ride-Log and note total number of trackpoints Click the first trackpoint in the list Press and hold Shift, click 250th trackpoint, then OK Right click your mouse and select Copy Click Edit => New Track => End Right click mouse and click Paste Name the new track Fun-Ride 1 Repeat for next 250 trackpoints and so forth 4 - You have an idea for a fun ride, and want to create a new track Click Track Draw Move mouse pointer to first point along your new course and click once Repeat until entire track is drawn Press ESC on your keyboard Right click track name (default = Track 001) Change name to something you'll remember 5 - You found a new way back to camp, and want to modify your track Method 1 => Laydown a new path using the Track Draw tool Move the pointer to where the old track should change Delete trackpoints from that point to the end of the track Copy the new trackpoints onto the end of the old one You can edit a track internally, too, but it's more difficult Method 2 => Save the file in the gpx format, then open it in TopoFusion Move trackpoints to their new location and save 6 - You've got the gps for a fun ride, but it's a route, not a track Mapsource (the hard way) Click Tools, then Track Draw and laydown a new track using the route as a guide Move mouse pointer to first point and click (once) Repeat until entire track is drawn, then press ESC Find Track 001 in the list, rename and save TopoFusion (the easy way) Open the track in Mapsource, save in the gpx format, then open in TopoFusion Click the Profile-Playback tool, then click anywhere on the route Wait for the Profile dialogue box to appear, then cancel it Right click the highlighted track, click SAVE AS, and save with a new name 7 - You found a new way back to camp, and want to modify your track Method 1 => Laydown a new path using the Track Draw tool Move the pointer to where the old track should change Delete trackpoints from that point to the end of the track Copy the new trackpoints onto the end of the old one You can edit a track internally, too, but it's more difficult Method 2 => Save the file in the gpx format, then open it in TopoFusion Move trackpoints to their new location and save View attachment: At the Computer.jpg View attachment: On the Bike.jpg
  19. 1 review

    The simplest battery for the dealer. Battery is filled, sealed and charged at the factory. Battery is ready for installation right out of the box. Never needs refilling. 1-year manufacturers warranty.
  20. 5 reviews

    Race proven 70W lighting systems Dual reflector design allows for optimum illumination of both near and distant terrain Compact design fits tighter to forks than other headlights Integrated brake line guide (long brake line recommended for X2 applications on MX bikes) Removable clear rock guard covers headlights and seals against dust to keep optics clean Each lamp can be switched on and off independently (wire harness with switch not included, see accessories) Universal, quick-release mount system mounts to any motorcycle with included rubber fork straps and pin-stabilization system (instructions included) 100% self-contained Dimensions: 12.4 H x 12.8 W x 3.9 D Available in a variety of colors in HID or halogen models HID specs: 4 SC4 large lamp, 2 SCMR16 small lamp, 70W, 38 oz., auto-restrike enabled, 12V DC power requirement (can only be used on DC) Halogen spec: 4 SC4 large lamp, 2 SCMR16 small lamp, 70W, 28 oz., dims to match power output, 12V DC or AC power requirement Graphic kits also available (sold separately)
  21. 1 review

    Accesory for Trail Tech SCMR 16 Single Lights
  22. 13 reviews

    From accessory to necessity! The Voyager GPS allows you to create, log and ride trails, and when you are finished, share them with friends. You can also monitor the engine temperature, ambient temperature, distance, voltage, compass, elevation, and engine RPM. The 2.7” screen uses the most up-to-date technology for amazing viewing, even in direct sunlight. Need to edit those trails? Voyager comes with free complimentary software RideLeader to help you create, edit and save those epic rides. User Manual: http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/computers/voyager/Voyager_Users_Manual.pdf
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