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Found 66 results

  1. Tstar320

    Motul 7100

    I have tried to find info on this oil by doing a search but I can not find anything. I did find info on motul 3000. Is motul 7100 10w40 ester okay to run in my crf 250 l? I hope so as I just put some in.
  2. nvrider

    KTM 250 XC-F (2011)

    0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  3. cjjeepercreeper

    Lucas Oil Synthetic 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil

    1 review

    DESCRIPTION Proven to cool and quiet engines and gear boxes. Use in ALL air-cooled and water-cooled 4-stroke Engine, Primaries and Transmissions that call for SAE 20W-50 motor oil. KEY BENEFITS Lower oil temperatures Longer oil life Longer component life Less noise, fewer leaks All Lucas Motorcycle Oils meet JASO specifications Meets or exceeds: API SG / SF / CC / CD, JASO MA & JASO MA-2, ACEA A3
  4. Hey guys, Did an oil change on the DRZ400 with the white jug of Rotella 15w40 I had sitting in the garage, since everyone seems to always default to it. I also have Rotella T6 5w40 that i used to run in my Ninja before I sold it, but I opted for the heavier weight this time. I've looked around, but only semi-definitive topic i've found is here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/978633-anybody-run-rotella-t-15w40/ This is the stuff I've put in, for visual reference: I haven't really noticed any issues after 400 miles, except that after riding for a while, the top end clatter gets a lot louder on my machine. I've set the MCCT properly (press in until pushing on the tensioner, start bike, back out until bag of hammers, push back in until it stops, then half turn). So- have I been shaving life off of the engine? Should I dump and move to another oil, or leave as-is?
  5. SurferDude

    Engine Oil

    Which is the best kind of engine oil for a 2 stroke dirt bike? Synthetic or not? Brand? I have a 06 yz 125 and a 2011 yz 250. Also, manual says 10w30 for the 125, would it be ok to use 10w40 on it?
  6. Ok so for Christmas I'm buying the whole family dirt bikes... When I get them I'm going to change the oil in all bikes. Can anyone recommend a good dirt bike oil? Can I get a reliable oil at Walmart? It will be one yamaha 250 one yamaha 125 and a Chinese automatic 50cc for the 6 year old if make an cc makes any difference. Thanks!
  7. Chickenhauler

    Oil Level Confusion Avoidance

    I recently got sick of having to consult my owners manual about how much oil my bikes need, (those with multiple bikes know it gets confusing) and not all these bikes had the amount needed to fill to capacity during a change marked on them, so I used an electric engraver to engrave the proper CC quantity near all the fill caps on every bike. Now, as long as I use my Ratio-Rite, its a perfect fill every time.
  8. Has anyone tried Castrol 4T synthetic motorcycle oil in their KTM? It looks good on paper and I'm attracted by the price, but the price is so much lower than the competition that it has me wondering why. Amazon has it for $7.75/qt including shipping on prime (TT removed my link to Amazon). Specs (JASO T093 MA-2): http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9045375&contentId=7079435 The only real difference on paper that I can find is the Motorex is JASO T903 MA rated, and the Castrol is JASO T903 MA-2 rated. It looks like the MA category was split into MA-1 and MA-2 -- MA-1 not for wet clutches, and MA-2 being safe for wet clutches. But I can't tell if there's a significant difference in performance between the old MA and the new MA-2. The 2014 KTM 500EXC manual does state "MA". Anyway, has anyone tried this oil?
  9. drz400e2000

    Semi synthetic or mineral oil?

    Hello all ! I've just bought a yr 2000 drz400e, really pleased with it. What oil do you recommend for a low mileage model (<1000 miles)? Mineral or semi synthetic? Thanks in advance...
  10. Alright so quit measuring your dicks and sit down, this ones a long one... I only learned this stuff recently so I thought it would be good to expose. The modern day oil and gas industry is riddled with low quality manufacturers, corporate lies, consumer misconception, and old time rhetoric. Sharks in the industry understand that it is better to pour money into marketing their terribly inferior product than research and development. This marketing is at the expense of the consumer. These slimy suits bank on a lack of consumer knowledge, they understand that a vast majority of the public is more concerned with cost and will never be truly informed regarding this matter. This topic applies across the auto spectrum as well (how I learned) but let's stick to bikes. I'm starting this thread to help wade through the cloud of misinformation and hopefully learn more about this highly complex matter. A more informed consumer will only help improve this Wild West of a marketplace for everybody. My goal is to learn some factual information at the same time squash the marketing bs helping others get the most out of their rig. Eventually, this thread is bound to start a pissing contest of opinionated answers between brands. I'm looking to dissect different brands whether it's 2 or 4 stroke oil doesn't matter. I want to better understand what exactly their specific traits and formulas mean, and how they compare. So guys please, let's keep it factual. No one cares about your "opinion". Manufacturers recommend particular oils because those oils are specifically designed to meet the criteria of modern, high strung, close tolerance, engines. I personally choose to bite the bullet and buy exactly what the manufacturer recommends given the insane amount of variables that make up modern oils. Can brands other than what the manufacturer recommends perform as well or better? Yes some do, but most of them do not. I think it is very important to compare data sheets to what the manufacturer recommends to obtain an oil with the same rating specifications and characteristics. Otherwise you might as well throw a dart at the wall or go by "smell". The basics: First, to understand oils I think it's very important for everyone to first know the types of ratings organizations and how their standards differ. Every bottle of oil will have a rating from at least 1 if not all of the recognized "independent" organizations. Look at the back. These organizations all have different standards to meet their certifications. There are many misconceptions regarding these certifications and what is a true synthetic oil. The easiest way to tell is through a rating system (API, JASO, ISO ACEA etc.) The API has become the laughing stock of the industry, the ISO has become widely regarded as the BEST standard, while the JASO remains somewhere in the middle relatively unchanged since the 90s. The API is a corrupt organization mainly focused on promoting and marketing their client based products rather than establishing a credible rating system over the years. It is known that the API sided with Castrol in a lawsuit regarding changing the base stock of their synthetic POA formula to a lower group 3 class while still claiming it was "fully synthetic". This move completely changed the modern quality of oils. The API quietly lowered the required blend of synthetic to 1% (not a joke) for an oil to qualify as "fully synthetic" under their current system. They swept it under the rug real quick like. This means that even if a bottle says "fully synthetic" right on the front it is often times a group 3 oil, nothing close to a POA synthetic stock. The general public needs to know that API designations should be dismissed completely. Many low quality manufacturers skip the more costly and stringent JASO and ISO certifications to intentionally mislead their customers into believing they have a good oil. Castrol, Maxima, and many others do this. (Golden Spectro I'm looking at you). Tisk tisk. The main thing I want people to take from all this: *****Any API rated oil without an ISO and JASO certification should be dismissed***** Now Im not trying to get too hairy here but I want to take this further. Here's a 2 nerdy topics that I'm having a hard time understanding, maybe someone can simplify. I have heard there has been a big push away from phosphorous and zinc as a wear inhibitor replaced by moly. Why is this? Isnt the reduction of phosphorous bad for flat tappet motor cams and rockers? Are there particular brands that contain more phosphorous than most? Would too high of phosphorous in the blend be too corrosive? Are there trade offs involved with higher concentrations of Zinc and phosphorous? Why the big push away? Are oils with the highest concentration of these additives considered the best? Too much moly causes clutch slippage correct? Like that stuff is too slick to even lube properly. Now regarding pre mix. I'm also particularly interested in motorex vs bel Ray 2 stroke oil. Ktm and Husqvarna both have essentially the same motor with a different airbox. The 2 oils are very similar but comparing the flash point bel Ray is much higher than motorex. Why is this? What exactly are the trade offs associated with low/ high flash point temps? I would assume motors that run harder/hotter need a higher flash point temp for proper lubrication at the cost of carbonization. I am under the impression that high flash temps run "dirty". I have a basic understanding of what I'm looking at but I would like to know more about data sheets than making simple number comparisons. http://www.motorexusa.com/msds/171-204_US_CROSS_POWER_2T.pdf https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.belray.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fmsds_files%2Fbel-ray%2520h1-r%2520racing%2520100%2525%2520synthetic%2520ester%25202t%2520engine%2520oil%2520item%252099280%2520us_english.pdf Here are some good reads to get you going: http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-1 http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-ends-well-part-2 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/
  11. Dago52

    Recommended Oil

    I am getting close to my first oil change and searched for recommendations but no luck. I am thinking of going with a Honda filter and Mobil1 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Im open to recommendations and Amsoil is hard to find around my neck of the woods. Thanks
  12. OfficialDirtSquad

    Oil

    Looking for a good oil alternative for a 2014 450sxf . Shits gettin expensive looking for sumthin cheap but good quality. What are you guys using?
  13. yofrankie

    Uh...where'd the oil go?

    Wow, I just got this 2002 xr250 and have been commuting to work about 90mi round trip. I have the valves adjusted properly, and keep it below 55 most of the time. I ride dirt roads and secondary roads the whole way. After an oil change yesterday, I doubled checked my oil level on the dipstick after today's commute and ...... it didn't register on the dipstick at all? I read some other posts but the bike does not smoke and I'm not beating on the valves. Is this type of oil consumption normal? Can I reduce the oil disappearance?
  14. Spectro Rollin

    Oil Q&A With Spectro Oils

    Question: Have a couple of simple questions. What makes one oil better than another? What should be in a good off-road motorcycle oil and what should not? Everybody claims to be the best, I've even heard that many "test results" published are not even applicable to motorcycles. Answer: Here at Spectro, we've been making motorcycle oils since 1966 and continually update our formulas as oil technology improves. The true test of an oil is how well it performes over time, not the hype and half truthes used by others in marketing claims. I'll explain some of the basics of oil, keeping it as simple as possible. Oils are compounded using three categories of ingredients: 1. Additives usually combined into a ‘package’. 2. Base oils (these may be mineral oils or synthetics). 3. Viscosity index improvers made of different types of molecules for different purposes. We are committed to using the top shelf products within all three of these categories, and we continually tune our compounds to maximize quality. What this means is this: Additive packages are revised every year by Infineum, the chemicals arm of ExxonMobil. They do all of the wear testing and analysis to ensure the packages meet the required OEM specifications thankfully, because this is the hardest work in the process. Some of these packages are built to be used at several optional treat rates for different uses. They perform dispersant, rust/corrosion inhibition, anti-foaming, wear protection, anti-acid and oxidation protection duties. We always opt for the maximum treat rate allowable. It costs us more money but we believe it is money very well spent for wear and rust/corrosion protection. Then, we specially modify the package with more zinc/phosphorus (typically 1800ppm) for even better cam, lifter, and main bearing wear protection. This adds significantly more to the cost. Only a small handful of companies do this. This is the reason for the high levels you see on the additive charts. The base oils we buy are different from most of our competitors oils also. We buy exclusively from ExxonMobil for continued quality and consistency. You can buy cheaper base oils on the ’spot’ market, but you will lose all of the aforementioned advantages. Unfortunately, we pay dearly for this benefit. The finer base oils have a higher natural viscosity index, meaning they thin less when temperature rises. This enables us to formulate a more thermallystable motor oil than our competition. The Heavy Duty viscosity index is a perfect example of what can be accomplished with higher quality VI improvers and higher VI base oils. The viscosity index improvers do additional work on the oils to even further lessen the thinning out as heat rises. The market is flooded with cheap VI improvers none of which we have ever used, by the way. One category is Polystyrene. Another category is Olefincopolymers OCP which most higher quality motorcycle OEM oils are made with: OCPs cost more money than polystyrene. At Spectro, we choose an even more expensive product that is higher still in shear stability and in its ability to survive in a gearbox. For us, this is more money well spent. By the way, the straight grades do not need this component which is why they work fine with methanol. This shear stability polymer combined with huge amounts of zinc/phosphorus, is what gives a rider longer lasting oil and a longer lived motor! The higher viscosity index is what gives the rider a smoother, quieter motor with better protection at start up. If you're still hungry for more oil tech, checkout our knowledgebase: http://www.spectro-o...e/dirt/tech.asp I know oil is a hotly debated topic on ThumperTalk, so hopefully this info will help you make a more informed decision about what oil to run in your skoot. View attachment: spectro-logo-w-path-thumb.jpg
  15. Jason Reyneke

    2008 yz250f using plenty oil!

    Hi, I need help please! We bought this bike 4months ago 2nd hand. From day one this bike is using plenty oil! I used Motul 10w30 100%synthetic.. So we throw and throw and throw this oil in after every ride.. Until we saw that after about 3hours of riding we stoped the engin for 5min and there was NO oil inside!! So we thought alrite this oil is to thin and we can't offord this expensive oil anymore. So we bought castrol 20w50 mineral oil. After about 10hours my back weel fall stiff!! And there was again NO oil shown in the side class. The crank coudnt even move.. We put the bike in 5th gear and pushed in backwards,, the crank got loose, I started it up drove around the block, the was no power!! And the engin were very noisy! The we saw the intake on by carb we loose, the mustvebeen getting dirt inside there aswell as with the thick oil couldn't handle that mutch dirt . We opened up my engin. Everything looked 100% exept, my sleve got dameged off the dirt that went throw the loosen intake on the carb. We thought my rings were the problem to the oil usage but my rings were in great condition! We going to reniccol my sleve, new piston, rings and crank berings. But we still couldnt manage to find out why my bike were using so much oil?? Soo let's hope the new, reniccoled sleve, rings, piston, crank berings is the sulution to my oil usage.. When everything is putten back together, bike is running fantasticly,, but its STILL using plenty oil? What do yu guys thing I must do? Need opinions please!! Thank you Jason
  16. 100SpokeRiderz

    Suzuki DR650SE (2014)

    0 comments

    Ive only had it 4 months & Its my first DualSport motorcycle but so far I love my Dr650 because it can take me places my GSX-R cant take me Click on the links to see videos of my bike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5bHuv105Yk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGF2zqmhNb0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFP6GHEATu4
  17. ThumperTalk

    The meaning of engine oil color

    It is a common misconception that an oil's color is an indication of how "dirty" it is. This is not necessarily accurate. It is often a common tactic used at quick lubes and service centers; the technician pulls the dipstick and wipes it on a white shop cloth and shows the customer how "black and dirty" it is. Any oil will turn black after a short period of use. Some oils may stay "clean" looking longer than others, but eventually they all will turn black. This is perfectly normal. When someone tells me how "clean" their oil is because they have pulled the dipstick and it looks clean I always tell them that it will eventually turn black. They also tell me when they pull the dipstick and it has becomes black and "dirty" it will require changing. That's about the time I will pull my dipstick in one of my trucks and show them how black and "dirty" the oil is. I will then produce my latest oil analysis test report that provides laboratory chemical and spectrographic test data confirming that the oil perfectly suitable for continued service. In general, the color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability or whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use*. Most oil in all internal combustion engines (and especially diesel engine oil) will turn black often in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. It is the job of the filtration system to filter out the larger sized soot particles that can cause engine wear and the additive package of the oil to neutralize and hold in suspension the soot particles that are too small for the filter to trap and hold. * Under certain conditions such fuel dilution, water contamination or glycol contamination, for example, the color can provide insight that something is mechanically wrong and in need of repair and/or additional analysis, however under normal operating conditions without mechanical problems present the black color which is commonly referred to as "dirty oil" in the vehicle servicing industry does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability. The only way to accurately determine an oils lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for, motorcycles, ATV's, powersports equipment, passenger cars, light trucks or any other application and is especially useful feedback tool for technicians, drivers and engineers in all types of racing and high performance motor sport applications The useful life of an engine oil is dependent on several factors such as the quality of the oil, additive package blended in the oil and the TBN level of the oil (the ability of an oil to neutralize acidic by-products of combustion), type of fuel, equipment condition, type and operating environment of the equipment and the type of oil and air filtration. If the oil manufacturer's product you are using does not have a change interval specified on the bottle or product data specs sheet then either change it at the equipment manufacturer's intervals or perform oil analysis testing to determine the condition of the engine oil at the time you think it should be changed. This can be very useful tool, not just for the oil but also for the condition of your engine. Once you perform a few tests you will be able to establish a trend for your type of vehicles, oil and use and then can determine an practical oil change interval for future changes without the need to perform oil analysis testing each time. The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient oil filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid abrasive contaminants held in suspension by the oil. It must be stated and understood with critical importance that there are wide variances in the quality of motor oils. Certain lower quality oils do not have quality base stock oils and additive packages to support intense heat and shear forces and longer drain intervals while other higher quality oils can have significantly longer drain intervals. Also keep in mind that the micron rating of an engine oil filter means absolutely nothing unless the efficiency (particle capture percentage) of the filter is stated also. If a filter is stated to be a "10 micron filter" but the efficiency graph shows it only traps 5% of the 10 micron particles then it isn't doing much good at filtering out 10 micron particles. For example, one particular oil filter manufacturer's oil filters are 98.7% efficient absolute at removing 15 micron particles. Note that this is an absolute number and not a nominal rating as many other filters are rated at. >>> discuss this article Dave Mann Lubrication Specialist - Truck/Automotive Engineer AMSOIL Regency Platinum 7 Star Direct Jobber Performance Oil Technology, L.L.C. www.powersports-oil-site.com
  18. ThumperTalk

    Repsol 4T Oil

    1 review

    Synthetic high-performance 4-stroke engine oil developed for ATVs and quads Tested in the most extreme situations while driving the engine beyond its limits Guarantees excellent thermal stability and resistance to wear in engines with oil bath clutches Meets API-SJ and JASO-MA2 standards
  19. What oils and lubricants should you always have for a 4 stroke dirt bike? What else should you always have for a 4 stroke in general?
  20. I apologize in advance for what is seemingly an amateur question that i should already know answere to but I'm doing my first oil change after 3 hours on my new beta 2016 390rr. I have not received my manual or anything from beta yet but from what I gather online it is calling for full synthetic 10w40 in the transmission gear oil . When I spoke to local dealer he recommended not using any synthetic in the gear oil area. So I'm a little confused as to what oil to use.
  21. sactofisher

    Coolant in motor oil

    Hi All, I 'inherited' a 2004 DR-Z 400 from a friend and decided to change the coolant and oil before taking it out for a ride. When I went to drain the coolant, nothing came out except for a small amount of motor oil (issue #1). I flushed some water through and it came out clean, so I decided to add some new coolant. I put in the recommended amount, and yet I couldn't see anything in the radiator. I then decided to drain the engine oil and out came my missing coolant. I know that if you have a head gasket leak for example, the oil will be milky, but I assume this would be the case after running the bike, which I did not, Are there any thoughts on what could be causing the coolant to mix in with the oil without running the bike?
  22. ptjeep

    Is Rotella in a 520 OK?

    I really hate to get a oil thread started but there's just not a whole lot of beta info out there. I just picked a very low mile 2010 520 RR and have no experience with newer four strokes. I know the manual calls for two different oils for the upper and lower engine areas. I've been running the rotella synthetic in 2strokes and my honda 650L with no issues. I'm just thinking it would be nice to only have to buy one type of oil and be able to pick it up at any auto parts place. What do you guys think? Again, sorry for a oil thread!
  23. sruiz67

    2009 crf150r oil change?

    I've only had this bike for about 4 months and I need to change the oil tomorrow. What do I do? I see where the oil filter is at but do I break the bolt on the bottem of the case that faces down? Let that drain after bike is warm and then replace filter and fill with oil? Or is there oil somewhere else?
  24. chevyrulz

    diesel oil?

    so I just got my first 4-stroke, an '06 YZ450f. guy who sold it to me said to run Rotella diesel oil, I think he said 15w30, but I only see 15w40...anyone run diesel oil in their bike? if so, what kind? I've always had 2 strokes & run Lucas 10w40 motorcycle gear box oil specifically designed for wet clutches....can/should I run that in my 450? I would prefer to use something cheaper than the boutique oils that cost $15+ per qt...thanks for any advice
  25. Hey all, looking to buy engine oil for my new YZ250f and wanted to know which should I get. There is the Yamalube Performance Semi-Synthetic or Yamalube All Purpose 4-Stroke Oil. I wasn't sure if the Semi Syn was a better idea. Thanks!
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