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Found 6 results

  1. Sasha Rudolfski

    FCR Fuel Screw DRZ400

    I have my FCR MX 39 installed (TT Store), it's been running 'decently' with the generic jetting. - 200 Main Air Jet - 160 Main Jet - 45 Pilot Jet - 100 Pilot Air Jet - EMN Needle (3rd clip from top) Here's the thing; I believe the bike is running rich in all circuits. MPG is about half of what is was before w/ CV carb. Using the choke has the opposite effect it used to have(rich pilot/Fuel Screw) making it run worse when cold starting and the idle drops if it's pulled out after the bike is started (I never have to use the choke to start now). Has some hesitation and sputtering at around 1/2 throttle. Airbox cover off shows main is too rich because bike feels lighter and faster with the cover off seemingly in any throttle position). Black soot on the exhaust. Smells like fuel at times. So IMO evidence clearly shows symptoms of a rich condition in all circuits. I am waiting on jets and needles but in the mean time, I am wondering about the fuel screw. Question If I turn it in towards closed position the idle goes up but if I turn it out the idle starts to drop, misses and stalls. Isn't this the opposite of what it's supposed to do? Does this also indicate another rich symptom in the pilot? I am using the R&D extended fuel screw. When I installed it, I took out the stock fuel screw and the oring didn't come out with the screw spring and washer. I tried to see if I could find it in the carb but never did so I figured it came out and fell somewhere but I searched and never found it on the floor either. The R&D fuel screw came with a new oring so I just went ahead and installed it. I'm thinking now there could be an extra oring in that circuit. If there was an extra o ring in there what symptoms might I experience? I will probably have to pull the carb and go fishing in there just to be sure. But I'd like to know if anyone has any input on my situation and any answers to my questions. thanks!
  2. Okavic

    Drz400sm Super Budget FCR

    Whats popping TT Peeps About a year ago i decided to tackle a super cheap budget FCR kit, that cost me about 200 bucks if that. Because to be honest i'm not too interested in spending 1000 bucks for a carb. The first most important thing. look for a used carburetor on the Face book market place,Craigslist, Offer up etcetera, generally you'll find many MX bikes that are constantly being parted out. Generally people That are parting out a bike don't really care about part value and will usually sell for cheap, since hey the bikes pretty much rotting in some shed or back yard might as well get rid of it. I've seen all kinds of FCR carbs, that are practically getting thrown away, Me personally i have about 4 FCR carbs, that I picked up for less that 50 bucks a piece. Thats a steal really, $50>$1000. 1. Carb condition/type From my experience, carbs don't usually require extensive rebuilds, maybe just a simple rebuild kit. That its self only cost about 15 or so bucks, per usual if the piece is covered in an inch thick layer of grime. Its probably not the best bet, of course you're not going to get a brand new part, but hey money talks. nothing more than a can of carb cleaner can help. I've also seen a lot of talk around the forums saying that you'll need a Euro FCR carb (The one with the removable intake bell) to get the ball moving, that is completely false. Japanese mx bikes are alot more common in the U.S. . So you'll come across the fixed intake bell a lot more. These work completely fine don't stress it. Another common misconception i see a lot is FCR size. I'm currently running a FCR 41 bored to 43.5MM and it runs completely fine albeit a little lean... Surprise surprise. Currently running a 42.5 pilot, and a 185 main. Carb sizes varies from maker to maker, my old crf250r had a 40mm carb, the drz can run bigger, no issues at all. One Note Though Stay away from quad carbs, YFZ450R carbs will not fit at all due to the tps system getting in the way. 2.pieces needed The old DRZ400E had a intake manifold that was made to hold an FCR. The kicker... the damn piece will end up costing as much as the carb if you're able to get on for under 50 bucks. since you're going to have to order through a parts site. Such as Suzuki Parts house. PIPE, INTAKE E3,E28 $13.48 13111-29F00 CLAMP, HEAD $3.45 09402-58208 CLAMP, CARB 3.45 0940-58208 Shipping is gonna be ridiculous, but what ever they have the part, and you don't☹️ Next you're going to need a FCR bell adapter, you can pick them up on the TT classified page or on ebay. I've seen them go for about $60 or so. I don't think anyone really needs the CNC Adapter, its another 30 bucks. The cast plastic one works fine, you do need to seal it with gasket maker, when installing it to get a complete seal. You're finally going to need a new set of cables and a twist Throttle, I tried getting the stock ones to work, but to my luck it didn't work. I got mine for about 35 dollars and i got them in the mail about 3 days later. The hot start also comes into account depending how picky you are about your set up. i just plugged mine with an engine bolt. I also recommend getting a Non Vacuum petcock, it only cost about 10 dollars and you don't have to deal with setting up a vacuum nipple. And thats about it really my project cost me around 180 dollars and 3 days of down time, also you're gonna have a blast getting the damn thing to fit in the bike but it'll fit. unfortunately i dont have any pictures to show. happy hunting peeps
  3. The FCR39 be it older slant or newer MX version is often reassembled incorrectly due to incorrect pictures used on Suzuki OEM parts pages on line. The part, called a "valve" in the Suzuki OEM parts pages, or vacuum release plate in the Keihin manufactures pages can be physically installed upside down and cause all manner of runability issues. Correctly installed as seen in the right hand two pictures, the flat end with small notch is supposed to be pointed down.
  4. I took my FCR for my 2004 wr250f all the way down this month, it always had a weird hangup like the cable is getting stuck, even though it happens without the cables on. I pulled it allll the way down, separated the upper and lower body and everything. I am now realizing that the problem may have been the prior owner never put the acc. pump springs on right. I'm trying to figure out the proper orientation of the spring that goes on last, although I want to make sure both are right. Pictures would be helpful, thanks
  5. Hey guys, I bought a very low hours 2006 WR250F back in December. The previous owner did the following: Airbox snorkel removed ProCircuit T4 exhaust Gray wire mod Throttle stop mod Smog hardware removed Quickshot 2 DynoJet Kit – stage 2 Bike runs great except it has the much talked about off-idle bog when you whack the throttle from idle. So I’ve been doing my research on TT and watching all the AP timing videos on YouTube. Last weekend, we changed the leak jet from a #90 to a #40. This made no difference. Then, we did the O-Ring mod to the AP cam/arm and adjusted the slack/timing. This made no difference. Then, we removed carb from airboot and recorded the AP squirt with an iPhone and found there was ZERO squirt! AHAH….here’s the problem. So then we took off carb bowl and inspected the AP diaphragm & spring, cleaned out junk under the diaphragm, reassembled and took another video. This time we saw a nice strong squirt from the AP when the throttle got whacked and the timing looked perfect -> it just missed the slide. However, on the stand and when riding out of a corner, we are still noticing a small bog. So I’m wondering what to do next to tune out the remaining bog. Here are my questions: Do I still need to have the larger leak jet (like a #40) even though I also have the Quickshot 2 which is supposed to fix the bog? I have no idea what needle clip position the previous owner set up. Even though the bike is running great through mid-throttle range, could the needle clip position be related to my off-idle bog? Same question about the main jet? (I know previous owner put in largest DynoJet main that came with the kit and he did not experiment with the other 4 main jets that came in the kit.) Most explanations of off-idle bog say it’s caused by temporary lean condition and this is what AP squirt is supposed to solve. However, if my AP squirt is too big, would this also cause the same symptom of a bog? I would love to hear your thoughts and get some advice on how to move forward here and eliminate the remaining off-idle bog. Thanks! Steve
  6. Erik Marquez

    FCR Coast Enricher removel

    The coast enricher effective richens the fuel mixture on deceleration but cutting air and that prevents backfiring. A perfectly working coast enricher is a good thing and has no performance down sides. However over time the coast enricher parts wear, hoses leak and low speed jetting goes to hell. A properly tuned pilot circuit does not need a coast enricher, factory leaness was the reason for it. Many bikes of later years or other brands did not come with the enricher nor do most of the aftermarket supplied FCR's... Removal of the coast enricher is simple .. Remove the nut and two hoses in red circles Connect the two remaining nipples with the proper sized hose and clamp them down with zip ties or clamps Plug the no linger vacuum port on the cylinder head with a cap And your done ..If you have significant back firing at deceleration now, most likely your pilot circuit needs adjustment. a year or so down the road, if you think you have a vac leak...check that rubber cap you put on the cylinder head port..the rubber caps commonly found at auto parts places do not last very long in the heat and operating environment. If you can source silicone vacuum caps, even better.
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