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2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.
NO HATE OR SMARTARSE. Hi all, i have recently bought a 2003 yz250. I have gotten it freighted so i have only looked at photos and a video of a start although, those don't prove much. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help me please do. If you have had the same year or similar and model please tell me what you ran? PLEASE NOTE - I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA. 1. Because i have gotten it freighted, the fuel has been drained. A mate wants to test the gears and some other stuff, so i am going to buy 3l of fuel to test, what ratio should i mix at and what fuel and oil should i use? 2. I'm riding in the bush with a couple of mates on 250 2 strokes, there will be quite alot of dirty,dust,rocks etc, what would be the best air filter and oil? 3. I wouldn't consider myself a pro rider but, I ride fairly hard, I want the bike to be healthy and in good condition. I don't want to replace the top end for at least 40+ hrs. What would be the best fuel to oil ratio, and what would be the best fuel and oil to mix with? 4. I plan on doing a top end, service, power valve and carb clean and maybe add v force reeds (if gears and the other stuff are good) Watched a couple youtube videos of top ends and they look easy, power valve looks a little hard but i think i can do it, have never cleaned a carb on a 250 so not sure what to do. If i added vforce reeds would it need to be jetted? (Don't know how to jet either) Think that is it for now. I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA.. Thank you
A part on my bike is somewhat of a Gladiator. If it is on my bike it means it has lasted the abuse of riding, racing, the elements, the unknown. It means that it has bested other products in that space and is in some way, superior. My current race bike is a 2018 KTM 300 XC-W Six Days. Everything I run has been carefully chosen and tested in some very harsh conditions. I am proud of, and believe in, the parts I run. I ran FunnelWeb Filters before being sponsored by them. I reached out and asked for the support because I wanted to run the best filter for my riding. They are a sponsor but they did not pay for these thoughts. This is my filter after race conditions for ~12hrs and still running strong. The pyramid foam traps the dirt & sand on the top layer leaving air still able to pass. Said another way, it prevents the dirt from penetrating deep into the filter. This keeps maximum airflow and makes it much easier to clean. Dual-layer filters can trap the dirt between layers and that's what makes them very hard to get clean again. It is easier to oil this design & resists dripping. I've tested them against regular filters and the life wasn't even close to Funnelweb filter life. This was side by comparison. Equal time of spinning laps in the super dusty summer. I even ran some dust socks on the twin airs. What I found is that nothing gets past the funnelweb filters. So that's why I run them. I have tested them and seen the performance advantages for myself. I need filters to last for 2 day races. Rarely do I need to change filters between days. Every time you take the filter off your bike some dirt gets in no matter how careful you are. If I don't have to remove it, just another advantage. Not popping this thing off in the pits is one less thing to think about. The filters I use will get soaked, frozen, muddy, the list goes on of what Hard Enduro races demand. Destry Abbott (10x desert racing champ) & his crew run these, Honda team out of Australia runs these too. Hell, if they're good enough for Geocomo Redondi (2018 WORCS champ) they should work for me. It was designed for combating the dust. They are quite popular in Europe and Australia because of how brutal the conditions are. I think of it this way- I expect my filter to still perform even if I lose the airbox cover. I trust the seal of the fwf filters to hold in these conditions. These fwf filters have proven themselves and earned their spot on my bike.