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Found 25 results

  1. 0 comments

    Solid and Reliable bike, as long as you treat the bike well. 6 Gears and lots of torque make it perfect for trails. It will carry a 6'0" 230lb guy through the woods without problem or stall.
  2. Have 2.5 to 3in of unused travel no matter what happens on a ride(woods) How do I know if it is a spring or valving issue? I already have the oil level at the bare minimum. Have had several hits where I was sure I had bottomed out but it did not occur. Have tried the clickers almost fully soft with no change. Springs are one step above stock which is what all the tuners have recommended. I never had a bottoming issue before the revalve with the stock springs(.44) This is an mx'r used for woods and I am 195lbs before gear. Thinking of going back to the .44. Effectively I now have an 8.5 to 9in travel susp. I want the full 11.5. Thanks.
  3. So i've done fork seal jobs on both cartridge type and dual chamber style forks. You're gonna laugh when you read this but for some reason i can't get these dang dust seals off of my wp forks. Theyre not made like normal seals that you can just simply pop out with a flat blade screw driver. Anyone ran into this? Got any tips and tricks cause im at a loss right now over a freaking dust seal!!!!!!
  4. Hi all, I recently noticed that one of my fork seals was leaking, and after looking at threads/videos etc., I've decided to try and replace the seals. I haven't tried to clean out the fork seals with film, but I'm not sure how long they've been leaking or how much oil was lost so I figured it'd be safest to just replace them. The actual replacement looks do-able to me, but I'm a bit nervous about taking the forks off the bike/putting them back on. What's the go-to method that you all use for getting them off and putting them back on correctly? How do I get them alligned properly? I'm also going to be adjusting my valves at the same time and I couldn't find anywhere that just sells individual valve shims. Is it standard to have to buy the $80 shim kit or did I miss something? Thanks in advance for the help! Also the bike's a 2005 DRZ400SM with 11k ish miles on it.
  5. On my 03 it is very hard to get the forks apart to change the fork seals. Does anyone have any tips? I've done it before, but it was me and one other person, to do it myself it seems way to hard. But maybe I'm doing it wrong.
  6. (I've posted this on the XR250/400 section and got no replies. Hope it's ok to try this section as well. The bike is a '93 XR 200 with front end (and rear shock) from a '84 / '85 XR 250) I'm having trouble sourcing bushings for my forks. The forks are '84-'85 XR250. They are KYB 38mm damper rods, which were also used on CR and RM 125 in '81-'82. Honda part numbers for the bushings are 51415KA3004 and 51424KT0781. I've spent hours on the web and phoning around uk and europe suppliers, with no luck (I'm in the UK). Only tried partzilla in the US so far. Would be grateful for any suggestions where I may be able to buy these bushings. The dimensions are (approx): teflon out: i.d. 37.01mm o.d. 38.75mm height 19.70mm teflon in: i.d. 38.00mm o.d. 42.00mm height 11.91mm
  7. After practice at a muddy track one day, I found one of my fork seals bleeding. One of the old pro's showed me this trick. Step 1 Grab yourself some generic tear-offs (film negatives will also work) and cut the end off one of them with some scissors. Step 2 Remove the fork guard and place a flat screw driver between the edge of fork and the dust wiper and gently pry them apart sliding the dust wiper cover down. Step 3 Take the tear-off and slide it against the fork tube, in between the fork tube and seal. Step 4 After working it around the fork pull it out and you should see some small particles. Believe it or not those will cause your seals to leak badly. Repeat this several times and you should see less and less. Step 5 After, don't forget to also clean the dust wiper before replacing it. Put the dust wiper back on and try bouncing on the forks a little and take a look, it should be cleared up. This won't help if your seals are worn out but, it may save you a trip to bike shop and the cost of replacing seals. There is also a tool called Seal Mate designed specifically for this purpose if you don't want to use tear-offs or film negatives. In addition you may want to use a neoprene fork seal protector. These ‘seal covers’ filter out and help prevent particles from reaching the seals and therefore reduce the need for cleaning and also extend the life of the seal.
  8. 0 comments

    Still a great bike! This is my second one. I use mine for both dirt and street riding. It is very much at home on the dirt. Not a great street bike for 500 mile rides, but for getting from point A to point B, it's perfect.
  9. So, I a few weeks back, i noticed that the right fork of my bike was leaking oil, running onto the wheel. So I bought the seal kits and everything, and started pulling apart the forks. (I watched a video on how to do it, and read instructions for xr250's). In the instructions, you're supposed to 'pop' the oil seal out by pulling the 2 'cylinders' apart. ( not sure what they're called, they're just the two cylinders you see on the outside of the fork, made of chrome on bottom , gold on top cylinder?) I cant pull the two cylinders apart, i'm fairly sure that the oil seal is the only thing stopping it. I've put it in a vice, tried twisting it, tried to pry out the oil seal, had another guy pull the other side. Wont budge. I'm fairly sure i'm the first one to pull apart the fork since it was made late 2007, got it from a wholesaler, I think it only had 1 owner before then, but who knows. Any help?
  10. I've got yet another question regarding my suspension on my 02 yz125. I'm re-springing it for my weight (105). So far, this is what I have. Springs (used) 4.2 rear, .38 front. Maxima fork fluid (5wt) 2 liters of it. Now, my last thing I need is a fork seal/bushing kit. I've been looking at both pivot works and all balls. My question is which one is best. Are there any other better ones. Price is not really an issue, but kinda is. Just give me suggustion and I'll go from there. Thanks!
  11. Guys, I plan to google this here shortly, but figured id post here to get the "ball rolling". I just dropped my forks off to the guy I use for suspension. He told me he can use OEM or for $35 more can use SKF seals. I wasn't sure if the SKF were worth the extra cash. I mean $35 in the dirt bike world isn't much, but I just figured if it WASNT worth it, then why bother. I dont care either way, I mean if they are worth the lil extra...then id be up for it...just why if it isn't. TBH I think these may be original fork seals, lol...previous owner didnt know jack crap about bikes, and owner before him (original i think) spray painted numbers on the number plates - nuff said. My oem (if they are) seals havent leaked a drop since ive owned this bike (40-45hrs). I shoulda done them before, but when my valves went and this and that....they got pushed back til this offseason. Thanks. 2007 YZ250F
  12. I rebuilt all my suspension last year with pivot works to find out that pivot works makes shitty stuff. So all the pw stuff is coming out. The pw seal head would probably be ok but can I rebuild the oem one?....and Are there any good self locking shaft nuts? What shock oil is best? Shock is outa my old trusty 2006 crf250
  13. What are your thoughts on the neoprene fork skins? Love or hate, I'd like to hear what your experiences have been like.
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