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Found 39 results

  1. 1 comment

    Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now 🙄
  2. 0 comments

    she's a strong runner, but a bit much in the tight stuff
  3. I just traded my 93 cr125 for a 96 cr250 and when I jump it as soon as I come off the ground and my forks extend It feels like they bottom out and you can feel it in the handel bars it does not feel right at all you can actually hear it hit or bottom out not shure what its doing....Im thinking there is no fork oil in the forks or my spring is to soft..any help at all will be appreciated.
  4. Hiya. I am getting ready to set up my shim stack and install GR-2 gold valves in my 2014 S forks. When I remove the OE stack and valve, there is no base plate between the stack and the body. (at least not the size/style I was expecting) I attached pics of what I think may be the "base plate", but they look more like spacing shims to me. They are larger in diameter and a bit thicker than the smallest stack shims that sit against them. Could someone shed some light on this?
  5. There are a lot of discussion on shim stacks. Everyone is looking for info on how to tweak the shims to get a better ride. It's helpful to think of how shim changes alter the damping curve. When we run a dyno test, we test at different velocities to get an overall picture of how the shock is working. Here is a quick look at a shock compression stack: - - The velocities are displayed as inches per second (ips) and the comp force numbers are in lbs. - - Looking at the graph of the damping curve, this particular stack looks digressive. - - The lower velocities on the test would correspond to lower shaft velocities on the bike, and the same for higher velocities. Dips and g-outs are in the 10-20 ips range, and bump control is in the 50+ ips range. Most of the 'curve' in the damping curve happens in the first 40 ips. After that the forces become fairly linear. - - - - - - - - - - - - - If we run two tests side by side, we can get a quick picture of the difference in their damping curves. Here is a graph and the compression numbers from two dyno tests from a YZF 250 shock (KYB 46 piston with the 18 shaft). - - These two dyno tests show a considerably different in the compression numbers, and you can see how the damping curve has changed. ---> For fun, take a guess at how many shims it would take (and where in the stack) to get this much of a difference in the compression force numbers. Then tomorrow I will put up the actual difference in the valve stacks. Don't worry about guessing wrong, it's all for fun.
  6. Been a member on here for while, but never really posted much. I don't really get much time to get on the forums anymore even just to read, but I wanted to share the project I am currently working on. It's been going on for a bit now so I am going to post up some older pics. My phone died and I lost the pics so I had to snag some off my instagram so they may not be the best. I bought this 2008 KX250F off a semi pro racer probably 2 years ago and it sat as I didn't have the time to work on it along with other stuff I was working on. When I bought it, it didn't run, but in general was in good shape. The guy I bought it from was about 150lbs and I am 190 so It definitely needed more than a valve job for me to use. I always had basket case bikes that I bought cheap and fixed just enough to ride and then would end up selling them as I don't have much place to ride. Now I have more places to ride I decided I wanted a nice bike set up for myself and built how I want it from the ground up. So here we go: This is when I picked up the bike: Started breaking the bike down: The reason why the bike doesn't run: Moved the bike from my house to a garage I set up to work in: And took it apart more:
  7. 0 comments

    This is a great little scooter, Fit and finish are top notch. Just needs to shed some weight and grow some nutts.
  8. 0 comments

    I ride this on the track and its my backup/loaner trail bike , it has a 13oz flywheel weight and a 3.2 IMS tank
  9. I am becoming prepped to rebuild my 04 S suspension. (yes the rear linkages have all been greased and cleaned regularly and will come out easily!) At first it was "just seals, and oil" Then it was "while I'm in there...gold valves..." Then it became "I got a low seat and a 28" inseam...maybe lower it properly...while I'm in there" And now it is sort of like "shit I am buying so many parts I might as well cough up the bit more $ to have someone experienced build it for me" But that is just not me. I been a bicycle mechanic for 21 years, and always have a slew of projects that I'm learning on! I been in a lot of complicated suspensions on MTB's that cost as much or more than a DRZ!! But they are usually air sprung, and small. IMO...I have very good wrench skills and intuition. Fair to good understanding of shims, and suspension concepts and workings. And low experience, but high confidence! (almost as dangerous as a motorbike with shitty suspension) Thing is in gathering my intel. No one wants to spill the beans about proper lowering with spacers internally. (which becomes the reason you send it to Race Tech) The questions I might like to find answers to: 1--Because the stroke length becomes shorter, if the spring is not shorter than it will act as if it is a "firmer" spring than its printed spec. So how would one compensate or calculate for this? Same rate spring for my weight but just 1" shorter?? (I understand the rear is on a leverage ratio, and has adjustable preload, so may be more forgiving...err adjustable) 2--I have viewed rear shock travel spacers on Race Techs site, but they do a good job of hiding whatever spacer is used in the fork. Anyone know what to get and where to get that? Or is it going to be a make one yourself scenario? 3--How many specialty tools will I need to buy to do the rear shock, not including Nitro charge setup, I would finish the job off by paying a shop to nitro charge it. 4--Should I just send it out. Seems like once you throw internal spacing into the mix, it becomes "black magic" Like I can do it, but I can't let you know the "secret"--or call us for info and send it in. 5--I know there are things I am missing, misinformed, and not yet aware of. I am not insulted by people telling me what I don't know, and can't do. Fire away please I am about 180 lbs, will sometimes carry camping/touring gear >50 lbs , and think it would be great if my bike were 1" lower. I am cool with losing the inch of ground clearance. And as you can tell despise the notion of lowering links and riser blocks!! I am riding it fine as is, and deal with the DRZ's tallness and my lack thereof...but since I am gonna be tearing it apart. Being lower would help, but it needs to be done right, otherwise I'll continue on my toes & 1/2 ass it! Anyone been down this road or have experience and know-how doing this? I'd be really grateful to hear about it!!
  10. Right I know this topic has been posted many a time before. I HATE the way my YZ turns and feels in rutted corners. It is awful. I have 2 of them,I have tried everything from 17mm o/s triple clamps to 20mm o/s to running the fork like 15mm up in the top clamp. I also have 100mm sag and the correct spring rates. The things has useless traction of front . I love the bikes, but the lack of traction feel on the front really makes me want to change bikes! Any ideas? The yz seems a lot more sensitive to sag etc than other bikes,It Is a nightmare in downhill ruts. Is this just how the yz is? This will be my 5th yz 250 by the way. Thanks
  11. Race Tech Suspension Installation and Mod Guide Note: See write up posted further down this thread by Force0321 which has pictures I recently purchased the Race Tech suspension modification hardware from the TT CRF250L Specialty Store. I thought should share the experience since many of you may be able to learn from it. Firstly, I want you to know that prior to this, I have never opened a motorcycle front fork in my life beyond adding fluid, nor have I ever changed a mono-shock out with the exception of a few old bikes that I have parted out over the years. To me these have always been a few places of mystery where I would yield the know how to the "experts" and not take any chances on messing it up. After completing these modifications I must say "I get it now"...it all makes sense...it's just hydraulics mixed with a bit of science. Nothing to get concerned about when doing it oneself, if one has a few good tools and can read... Some patience goes a long way as well. I intend to be somewhat vague since Race Tech has covered this pretty well with their online videos and the instruction sheets that come with the kits. I want to mainly cover the areas where I feel some may not get it or might not have a special tool in the garage that makes the job much easier. Having never done this before, "my way" may seem unfamiliar to the experts, but be assured that it all went well and basically was easy breezy... It just takes some planning and a lot of cleaning. It will be interesting to see if I came up with the same things the experts do, on my own... NOTE# 1: as we get into the images forthcoming, you'll likely notice that I have mainly high end professional tools...not a requirement for this, or most jobs. I was a technician by trade for well over a decade and the tools I have were a former job requirement...that's all. (oh, they work good too). NOTE# 2: I had some "what the hell is that" , "how did they do that" and "what are they trying to say here" moments...these, I will cover in detail. I took some, say, "non expert measurements" prior to performing the installation in an attempt to know what sort of differences the modifications made to the bike dimensionally. The measuring points were what I call "random" so they really don't mean anything in themselves, so I see no point in sharing them. However, the deltas of these measurements are somewhat eye opening and quite noticible. What I measured is standing heights front and rear, with the bike standing straight up off of any sort of stand/ support. I gathered these both as OEM equipped and then after installation of the Race Tech components. I used two conditions, first unloaded, then with me (220lbs.) sitting at the "center" of the seat with my feet on the foot pegs and my hands on the grips...this is what I found... In both cases these measurements are revealing the bike as riding higher on its suspension after the Race Tech mods. This will vary depending on rider weight and what the set up data one gives to RT for selection of the custom package for the shock and the fork over all dampening characteristics. For my wife this means that sitting on the bike before, her knees were bent when flat footed on the ground, but now her legs are straight when sitting flat footed... This scored me bonus points as that's how she likes her bikes to be...it's the same as her WR250F is this regard after the RT mods. Her WR still has unmodified OEM suspension at this time...that will likely never change until its time for rebuilding at some point in the future. I could go into a long winded sermon on the subject of Sag or what the experts call Race Sag but it really dosen't matter to those of us that ride dual sports and tend to have ever changing loads and roads...perfect Race Sag is worth a mention if your load is always nearly, exactly the same...like when racing. If requested I'll compose a topic sharing a full explanation of this...if your not track riding...don't worry to much about it. You'll find that Race Tech will have you set up quite nice at the load you give them. One measurement delta I didn't capture, which I wish I would have, was the "List" angle pre and post when sitting on the side stand..its dramatically different and now my wife wants a longer side stand... Alloy, of course... . Now let's get into the guts of this after a few more pieces of data... Links to the Race Tech parts provided below. GS-3 Shock absorber. https://www.thumpert...2006835363.html Gold valve kit. https://www.thumpert...2006835360.html Spring kit. https://www.thumpert...2006835361.html Fork oil. https://www.thumpert...5-p4767010.html Let's get started with the installation... First and foremost... wash the bike... the whole bike, then dry it or let it dry. Then remove the seat and plastic...enough to get at the upper shock bolt ... Get it on a stand or lift supported in the center high enough to get the tires off the ground with the suspension fully extended...I use a lift because I have one and I prefer to work standing because my back and knees are at least 20 years older than I am. Going for the shock change first... I then connected a tie down strap in such a way as to support the swing arm with the shock removed...not real tight...just enough to hold it from drooping. This also keeps the pressure on the bolts in need of removal neutral, this allows them to slide right out, with little effort. At first it appears one may need to remove the battery and the airbox to get at the upper shock nut... However, I am far too lazy for that...if one has a crow foot wrench set your in luck. 😉 You can get right on that nut and hold it while turning the bolt from the other side. But, you will need to remove the securing bolt from the rear brake reservoir and move it out of the way... This makes things much easier. It's worth the effort. If one has a magnet, use it to catch the nut and washer while pulling the bolt out from the other side...this will save you from losing them inside the bike...you also swear less, this aids in keeping the wife happy. If you haven't already removed the mono shock "mud guard" and/or plastic deflector... Do it now to get it out of your way. Next, I removed the shock linkage assembly. Removing the shock is much easier with the whole thing removed. It's just a few bolts and easy to do until you get to here... No worries, one can just bend the brake spring out of the way, without removing it...takes a bit force but it is doable. After all the bolts are removed your OEM shock will quite literally fall right out with a little help from gravity... TIP: Leave the upper shock bolt in place after removing its nut then pull it out with a magnet while holding onto the shock with the other hand to keep gravity from messing with your head as you remove the shock linkage. Then the old shock slips right out. I placed the OEM and the RT shocks side by side to view differences...the obvious one is that the RT is much higher quality and very sexy looking, comparatively speaking. Next, slip the RT shock into place and push the upper bolt in to support it...clean the bolt first, if you care about such things. When bolting this all back together use the thread locking compound of your choice and follow the OEM torque spec's for best results. It's really handy to use a bent jaw, compound, long reach "needle nose" pliers to install the washer and nut onto the upper nut...hold the nut in place and turn the bolt from the other side. Then, of course, torque the bolt using the crow foot on the nut as per disassembly detailed above. Now your ready to reinstall the linkage (after cleaning and inspection). Installing the aft most bolt last makes torqueing the rest of the bolts far easier. Admire the new shock for a bit... Then put everything else back on...or move right to the forks if you can't take it any longer... When performing the Gold Valve and the Spring installation one doesn't need to remove the right fork for anything except to change the fork oil if desired... The right fork is spring only, there is very little going on inside of there. It's just a spring and some oil, very little science is involved. All the good stuff goes in the left fork...it's the one that keeps the front end from bouncing all over the place by providing the compression and rebound dampening. I did take some pictures of front and fork removal, but for this exercise I'm assuming pretty much anyone who is going to attempt this alone or that should attempt this alone, will know how to do this already. Next up is the Gold Valve installation, logically, since the new spring goes in last, after the cartridge Mod is completed and reinstalled. Lock the left fork in a vise with the vice jaws padded with some of your wife's socks (or similar soft padding). Use care to avoid excessive clamping force or you will damage the tube. Loosen the fork cap nut with a suitable wrench while holding the fork from spinning in the vice with the other hand. Use a drain pan to catch the fork oil and then pump the cartridge in and out to get as much oil out as possible. Afterwards let the whole thing drip for awhile... Next remove the cartridge securing bolt from the bottom end of the fork. The dampening cartridge will now come out. If you haven't done so already, spread out some shop towels on the bench since you're going there next. You will most likely spill some more oil, plus you must keep everything clinically clean... To remove the compression valve from the cartridge, it must be pushed in from the end of the cartridge tube a bit to remove the retaining ring...I did this by screwing the cartridge securing bolt back into its thread, inserting the correct hex wrench and tapping it gently with a hammer. One need not drive it back from the end more than a 1/4" (or 5mm for those of you so inclined)... Get a hold of the ring with a hooked pick tool and gently pull it out of its seat being careful not to have it across the shop, where it will be lost forever... (Murphy's Law) Now you can push this valve out of the cartridge with the rod that has the rebound valve connectied to it. Think "slide hammer", you are just tapping a bolt head and nut together. Don't worry about hurting it since you're going to file on the shafts threads later anyway... These valves look pretty tame until you spread all the pieces out. Be extra careful to keep them in order of how its stacked and came apart. Now its time to talk about the little bag of mystery parts from your Gold Valve kit. You're supposed to know what they all are, and you will, after reading this. I'm refering to the bag with the sticker on it... The upper part has a little tube of red Loctite for you to throw into a drawer if you have a bottle or a stick of it already. It's much easier to work with a bottle than the blister pack. The next segment of the package has a new O-ring for your new compression Gold Valve and a new piston band for your new rebound Gold Valve. The bottom segment has two check springs that are used with the two new Gold Valve "sleeve washers" a new nyloc nut for your shaft (holds the rebound valve on) and lastly a couple of spacers that can be used to make up "stack height" depending on you recommended stack from the RT DVS webpage. The other package is what will likely be all the "shims" you will need plus extras...( I reused exactly zero of the OEM shims for my stack ). Then lastly, the other two items are your new Gold Valves. You don't need to reuse the one and likely you can't remove it without damage anyway. These springs and gold colored sleeve washers replace the OEM sleeve washers and check springs. This is important. The printed directions are not crystal clear about this and could lead one to believe that these springs and gold sleeve washers are perhaps not for your application leading to a valve assembly... Note the OEM check spring and sleeve washer mounted on top of the Gold Valve...THIS IS WRONG!!! It shouldn't look like this... Of course I would never do this, but it could happen if this isn't properly understood... Basically what you have here is that the Gold Valve can move way more oil, faster. The check plate must be able to accomodate this...hence the new coil spring vice the OEM "spring washer". Next, I advise that you open the shim pack and separate the shims by thickness and diameter on a clean surface and notate what's what. There are only three thicknesses but many diameters...you must know these measures to get the stack right, so keep track of them. Note : I didn't take this image until after I had already built the compression stack...nearly half of the supplied shims are not in this image... Separating the shims is what the digital, metric, veneer caliper is for, measuring the thickness... ...and measuring the diameter of each shim. Make sure you don't have two stuck together... Understand that what you're building here is a hydraulic valve and your ride characteristics depend on your accuracy. Basic theory of operation (it may help wrap your head around this) The shim stack keeps the fork oil from passing through the valve until enough pressure has developed to bend the stack away from the valve allowing the oil to pass until the pressure drops enough for the shims to once again achieve a seal. This is why it needs this tapered looking stack of shims...at a very minute level this is a flexible assembly using the same technology as a simple reed valve. The order in which these shims are arranged sets the level of flexibilty the valve has and the rate (speed) in which it will open and close...its pretty much infinitely adjustable...even at its OEM state. SAY WHAT ? you say... Yes, everyone says your CRF250L has non-adjustable forks...all that means is that you can't adjust them externally with a screw driver...but nay, I say...your forks are adjustable as they come...they always have been. And this is what the "experts" will do for you. Most of them likely don't know what you now know about your forks. Next time set them straight on their smack talk. That may lead one to the conclusion that you don't need Gold Valves, the truth? You don't...but if you want a superior ride you do and here is why: Gold Valves have drastically larger ports than the OEM ones do, this allows a larger quantity of fork oil to pass through them at a faster rate, as needed, thus improving performance dramatically. Lets press on... Go here http://old.racetech....earchdirtvs.asp and enter your info, plus the DVS access code from your kit instructions and get your custom fork set up perscription (don't forget to print it, you need it in the shop). Follow the perscription to the tee for both the compression and the rebound valve stacks. Remember: the data page is somewhat generic and has additional information that is not applicable i.e. you have no external adjusters to click for externally fine tuning anything...BUT, nothing can stop you from pulling it back open and expierementing with the stack if you want to make a tuning change. We all could be experts at this with some practice and good record keeping. Be sure to follow the torque guidelines when reassembling the valves and use loctite on the screw, just don't slobber it down the valve and glue everying together. Follow the online instructions about filing the "peening" from the shaft threads, clean them up and use the newly supplied nyloc nut when putting it back together...I dropped a dot of Loctite at the shafts end thread (the last thread the nut will engage with) also...NOTE: Don't get Loctite on the nylon...it will do bad things and fail miserably in time, (not much time). When installing the whole thing back in the cartridge tube one needs to be careful with that split seal. Oil it up well and hold it around the valve until it's started inside the tube all the way. Note: Take care not to allow the "split" to align with the oil holes in the tube or you'll surely damage the seal. Reinstall the split ring after inserting the compression valve. Then push the compression valve back against the split ring and you're almost done, you can pull it into place like this if desired... Don't forget to loctite the cartridge securing bolt when you torque it back into the fork, making sure you don't forget the crush washer on this bolt or you will have an oil leak. The spring kit instructions are pretty straight forward. My application required the sliding of three of the supplied four "washers" in first to get the preload right. (you may only need one) Chuck the fork up in the vice and add the fork oil. Add it first and pump up the cartridge...this helps you keep it extended during the spring installation (and lessons frustration). My take on the preload is I needed to have about this much thread exposed to get the suggested 3-5mm of preload... The black Delrin lower collar collar presses into here. Just set it on end on the bench and give it a shove. It goes right in. When you get it all looking like this your ready to go back together...(wipe off any excess loctite please). IMPORTANT : don't forget to add your Race Tech "protective" fork tube stickers... MOST IMPORTANT : Keep everything clean...it can't be too clean and any debris may foul the valves. Lastly...put it all back on the bike using due diligence then put the plastic and seat back on... Super simple...I could talk a ten year old through this without getting frustrated. The best part is, it works great and my wife once again thinks I'm a super star. 🙄 This morning I put a railroad tie out in the field and ran over it at twenty miles an hour...the Race Tech equipped CRF250L absorbed that tie almost as if it wasn't there. It was just a little bump, got a wee bit of air and landed as smooth as can be without bottoming out. I never tested this, in this way, with the OEM set up...I was too scared to try it. That's what Gold Valves do for you as well as other benefits...I highly recommend them. We plan to ride the bike extensively as per the RT set up before we determine if any attention needs to be given to the Sag beyond the RT guidance. This kit is intended to be Plug and Play and so far this appears to be exactly that. Cheers !
  12. I have a fork cap wrench but watching videos it looks like I need another funny looking wrench to hold the inner cartridge stuff to take it apart. Correct? Any quick substitute? Do I need to seperate the fork legs to remove-install the cartridge? I have new SKF fork seals and don't want to take a chance on damaging them. I will also be replacing one fork spring. Thanks.
  13. 0 comments

    Having not hit the trails or an enduro for the better part of 14 years I decided to pull the trigger on a 2015 CRF250L, I almost purchased the WR250 but the price and my credit kind of pushed it out of the running, not to mention that I tend to be a bit short 5' 8" and the WR felt like I was climbing a minor mountian. To preface the last time I rode 2 strokes were legal, and a fuel injected bike didn't exist. At any rate having recently gotten my 93 DR350 running but lacking a title to go street legal I opted for the CRF. Out of the shop I noticed that it was for lack of a better term kinda nutless. Here in Texas many of the backroads are 75 mph so it is somewhat harrowing to push the bike that hard. <br /><br /> <br /><br />I rode on it untouched for a month, I did like my commute gas bill going from $44 a week in my truck to $5.44 every 2 weeks on the Honda. Where the bike was a pure joy to ride was the woods. No you won't be climbing mountians on it but it is so nimble in the woods vs the old DR. The suspension and stock tires are a bit hard to deal with but honestly who in their right mind buys a dual purpose with the intent of nailing doubles at the local MX track. I have kind of gotten a bit out of shape and still the stock suspension suits my needs. To be honest I like how it dives a bit in the turns. The real test was a 329 mile back roads ride from Austin to DFW and back. The average speed limit was 75 posted I was having trouble holding 70 and about 100 miles in thanked god I changed the seat. In strong cross winds the higher center of gravity is a bit harder to deal with. I also noticed it seems to run a bit hot especially on your left knee as the fan kicks on. I was a bit afraid of overheating but Captian Slow plodded along. (yeah I named the bike after James May on top gear UK) If you are shy on cash and you have $300 to pick any mods I would stress the 13t sprocket, seat, and handgrips. You will thank yourself so will your rear and hands. After it's paid off I plan to go full on modding.<br /><br /> <br /><br />I finally dropped a bit of money into it (not the warranty voiding variety)<br /><br />I went to a 13T front sprocket (made all of the gears useable with the 14T i considered 4th gear an option and nigh useless)<br /><br />got a seat concepts low profile seat (yeah I am short 5'8" and 210 lbs...)<br /><br />Tusk Fat bar with adapter<br /><br />Holeshot pad for a gps / smart phone<br /><br />Tusk hand guards<br /><br />Protaper Pillow grips<br /><br /> <br /><br />This notched the comfort level up a good bit, I wanted new suspension and the FMF but I like my warranty and after a full bottom and top end rebuild on the DR I don't feel like turning a wrench on my commuter.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Pros:<br /><br />It is cheaper than the competition.<br /><br />5 year warranty for $400, yeah that is nice.<br /><br />Gas mileage is not the 73 it claims it is closer to about 56 - 60 but still...<br /><br />The Service intervals, it is a cheap ride if you take care of it.<br /><br />It is a good bike if you trend shorter<br /><br />Nimble in the woods<br /><br />It runs well on 87 octane actually mine seems to prefer 87...<br /><br />Brakes are pretty darn good.<br /><br />I have to say it but it is a good looking machine stock.<br /><br />The clutch has a 1 finger pull, easiest I have ever had.<br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />Cons:<br /><br />It's power is underwhealming even vs a 22 year old air cooled 4 stroke.<br /><br />The stock seat is like having a 2x4 wedged up your crack<br /><br />The stock bars and grips transfer excessive vibration and cause a good deal of arm pump.<br /><br />The stock 14t front sproket makes the bike run a bit jerky especially in lower gears.<br /><br />Since it has a fuel pump and fuel injector I fear running gas out on it will end up torching the fuel system.<br /><br />The low fuel indicator comes on at half a gallon left and is very touchy with slopes.<br /><br />I think the idle is set too low from the factory and it likes to stall.<br /><br />The clutch feels like it does not fully engage ever.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Conclusion:<br /><br />If I could go back in time and pick a different bike as a dual sport I would petition Honda to make a 450L, none of the other offerings are in my price range or near as a complete package as a 250L. The WR is nicer off the floor but for the price the performance isn't a lot better (got to try a friends) The Suzuki was almost my choice but it had a bulkiness to it I didn't quite like and was too tall. Anything 650? No thanks. I would still walk off the showroom floor with the same 250L. Update: Stage 1 mods, very fun I can now accelerate in a headwind. Decided to go back to stock gearing since it is my commuter and the stage one gave it some balls. Saving up for a racetech or YSS rear Racetech front suspension rebuild. If the tax return is big enough this year maybe I can pay it off and 305 it as well. Man I don't think I could like this bike more except I got to try a road legal 2015 WR450L that well makes me kind of wander, then again even with all the mods the CRF250L still comes out $700 cheaper also the seat height on the WR would make me have to carry phone books in my riding pack.
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    Last of the carbureted Japanese 450s. Great suspension, easy to ride for a 450 but can haul when it needs to. Weaknesses are turning, doesn't really like to cut a sharp corner, and a weak clutch that doesn't tolerate much abuse.
  15. Im working on valving my 06 yz250 I bought used. I pulled it down and the mid valve is stock but the base valve is 30x.11 x11 28x.11 x1 26x.11 x1 24x.11 x1 22x.11x1 20x.11x1 19x.11x1 18x.11x1 17x.11x1 16x.11x1 15x.11x1 14x.25x2 ......... Where stock is 17-32x.11 1-30x.11 1-28x.11 1-26x.11 1-24x.11 1-22x.11 1-20x.11 1-18x.11 1-15x.11 2-14x.25. What would the 30mm shims in place of the 32mm shims do? Im new to valving and this will be my first attempt, I have read alot on here and have learned alot but Just want to understand effect the smaller shims will have. I plan on going back to stock valving and adjusting from them but just trying to learn what I can.
  16. Hey all, I have a 07 crf250r...the wife ordered me a bunch of suspension goodies for my birthday. The last of which was racetech gold valves for the rear shock. She ordered part number smgv5003, but the company sent smgv 5001... Even said smgv 5003 on the invoice. I called the shop about the mishap, and they were very unhelpful and told me that the 5001 will work fine. I said that race techs site suggested the 5003 when you punch in my bike. Anyways, I have to call them back on Monday "because no one there with authority to process the return was there..." I put a call into racetech, but I burned up so much time on the phone trying to get the guy to authorize the exchange, racetech had closed for the day. Aside from the part number, how much o a difference is there between the 5001 and the 5003, so when I call back on Monday an they continue to give me a hard time about the exchange, I'll have something intelligent to say about the specs? Thanks!
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