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Found 48 results

  1. leo 450yfz

    Yamaha YZ450F (2010)

    0 comments

    After a few simple mods this bike is absolutely awesome! Injectioneering throttle body, suspension from RC tech and Youshi slip on being the main ones.
  2. racerden

    KTM 525 EXC (2004)

    0 comments

    Best Baja bike ever; love the forgiving handling at straight line speed
  3. Vintage Not Pimpage

    Show us ya shim stacks

    So has anyone come up with some good woods stacks for their YZ? I've just revalved mine for the second time and am not completely happy with it. I ride lots of super gnarly rooty rocky crap that is 3rd-4th gear, its is the kind of place that turns bikes you think are set-up well? Into bucking beasts. Anyway will post up my stacks in a minute but if anyone has some good set-ups I'd love to see them Cheers
  4. Dan Paull

    Gold valves and shims

    I own a 2013 kx250f, and have chosen to buy and install Goldvalves, rebound separator nut for the shock, and changing the front spring. My weight is 75kg (165Lb), height 6 foot, and I'm a top C low B grade rider. I have a few questions: 1. How hard is it to install? 2. What special tools will I need? 3. I believe that Race Tech supply suggestions to valve stacks but how do I choose which one I want? and how can I fine tune it later? Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan.
  5. em8691

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2003)

    0 comments

    This bike has come along way from the stock POS Suzuki puts out, but really a solid mild bike turned into a ROCK SOLID fire breathing monster! I'm sure that I left some stuff out but it's been fun transforming this bike into something that I'm proud to own, and a big THANK YOU to all here at THUMPERTALK for helping me make this bike happen! Eric ps...MORE pics to come Of course I listed all my mods without using the "add mod" option. SHOOT!!! too late now, well here they are... CW 434 big bore Hot Cams Stage 2 intake and exhaust E header pipe w/ FMF Q exhaust FCR MX 39 carb ThumperTalk MCCT Free powre mod Shoria LFX14A2-BS12 battery (210 CCA!) Kickstart (just because) ThumperTalk Case covers (before they were "branded") IMS +1 shift lever dr650 clutch arm lever(shorter cable pull) IMS pro SS foot pegs Clarke 3.9 neutral tank Pingel petcock SSW short pull throttle tube w/ single cable ProTaper Pastrana FMX 1 1/8 bars w/ pillow top grips Zeta triple clamp w/tall risers Cycra probend handgaurds w/ Zeta inter-grated turn signals Acerbis Cyclops headlight Acerbis plasticsPoli-Sport plastics WER steering stabilizer Happy Trail skid plate Race Tech Gold valves GR-2 Race Tech .54 fork springs Race Tech 6.0 shock spring Topar rear disc guard KTM fork guard mod Galfer SS front and rear brake lines Galfer front wave rotor (18" 21" set up) Shinko Golden Boy 244 DOT trail tires (18" 21" set up) Michelin HD tubes Warp 9 SM wheel set w/ Conti force SM 120/70/17 150/70/17 Kytech bilet rear rack Happy Trail pannier racks Pazoma levers Unibiker radiator guards Silicone radiator hoses Pivot Works wheel bearings Pivot works suspension bearings Seal Savers fork portectors DRC edge tail light flush mount rear turn signals
  6. skoobeesnak

    Yamaha YZ450F (2009)

    0 comments

    Last of the carbureted Japanese 450s. Great suspension, easy to ride for a 450 but can haul when it needs to. Weaknesses are turning, doesn't really like to cut a sharp corner, and a weak clutch that doesn't tolerate much abuse.
  7. michaelg131

    Honda CRF250L (2015)

    0 comments

    Having not hit the trails or an enduro for the better part of 14 years I decided to pull the trigger on a 2015 CRF250L, I almost purchased the WR250 but the price and my credit kind of pushed it out of the running, not to mention that I tend to be a bit short 5' 8" and the WR felt like I was climbing a minor mountian. To preface the last time I rode 2 strokes were legal, and a fuel injected bike didn't exist. At any rate having recently gotten my 93 DR350 running but lacking a title to go street legal I opted for the CRF. Out of the shop I noticed that it was for lack of a better term kinda nutless. Here in Texas many of the backroads are 75 mph so it is somewhat harrowing to push the bike that hard. <br /><br /> <br /><br />I rode on it untouched for a month, I did like my commute gas bill going from $44 a week in my truck to $5.44 every 2 weeks on the Honda. Where the bike was a pure joy to ride was the woods. No you won't be climbing mountians on it but it is so nimble in the woods vs the old DR. The suspension and stock tires are a bit hard to deal with but honestly who in their right mind buys a dual purpose with the intent of nailing doubles at the local MX track. I have kind of gotten a bit out of shape and still the stock suspension suits my needs. To be honest I like how it dives a bit in the turns. The real test was a 329 mile back roads ride from Austin to DFW and back. The average speed limit was 75 posted I was having trouble holding 70 and about 100 miles in thanked god I changed the seat. In strong cross winds the higher center of gravity is a bit harder to deal with. I also noticed it seems to run a bit hot especially on your left knee as the fan kicks on. I was a bit afraid of overheating but Captian Slow plodded along. (yeah I named the bike after James May on top gear UK) If you are shy on cash and you have $300 to pick any mods I would stress the 13t sprocket, seat, and handgrips. You will thank yourself so will your rear and hands. After it's paid off I plan to go full on modding.<br /><br /> <br /><br />I finally dropped a bit of money into it (not the warranty voiding variety)<br /><br />I went to a 13T front sprocket (made all of the gears useable with the 14T i considered 4th gear an option and nigh useless)<br /><br />got a seat concepts low profile seat (yeah I am short 5'8" and 210 lbs...)<br /><br />Tusk Fat bar with adapter<br /><br />Holeshot pad for a gps / smart phone<br /><br />Tusk hand guards<br /><br />Protaper Pillow grips<br /><br /> <br /><br />This notched the comfort level up a good bit, I wanted new suspension and the FMF but I like my warranty and after a full bottom and top end rebuild on the DR I don't feel like turning a wrench on my commuter.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Pros:<br /><br />It is cheaper than the competition.<br /><br />5 year warranty for $400, yeah that is nice.<br /><br />Gas mileage is not the 73 it claims it is closer to about 56 - 60 but still...<br /><br />The Service intervals, it is a cheap ride if you take care of it.<br /><br />It is a good bike if you trend shorter<br /><br />Nimble in the woods<br /><br />It runs well on 87 octane actually mine seems to prefer 87...<br /><br />Brakes are pretty darn good.<br /><br />I have to say it but it is a good looking machine stock.<br /><br />The clutch has a 1 finger pull, easiest I have ever had.<br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />Cons:<br /><br />It's power is underwhealming even vs a 22 year old air cooled 4 stroke.<br /><br />The stock seat is like having a 2x4 wedged up your crack<br /><br />The stock bars and grips transfer excessive vibration and cause a good deal of arm pump.<br /><br />The stock 14t front sproket makes the bike run a bit jerky especially in lower gears.<br /><br />Since it has a fuel pump and fuel injector I fear running gas out on it will end up torching the fuel system.<br /><br />The low fuel indicator comes on at half a gallon left and is very touchy with slopes.<br /><br />I think the idle is set too low from the factory and it likes to stall.<br /><br />The clutch feels like it does not fully engage ever.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Conclusion:<br /><br />If I could go back in time and pick a different bike as a dual sport I would petition Honda to make a 450L, none of the other offerings are in my price range or near as a complete package as a 250L. The WR is nicer off the floor but for the price the performance isn't a lot better (got to try a friends) The Suzuki was almost my choice but it had a bulkiness to it I didn't quite like and was too tall. Anything 650? No thanks. I would still walk off the showroom floor with the same 250L. Update: Stage 1 mods, very fun I can now accelerate in a headwind. Decided to go back to stock gearing since it is my commuter and the stage one gave it some balls. Saving up for a racetech or YSS rear Racetech front suspension rebuild. If the tax return is big enough this year maybe I can pay it off and 305 it as well. Man I don't think I could like this bike more except I got to try a road legal 2015 WR450L that well makes me kind of wander, then again even with all the mods the CRF250L still comes out $700 cheaper also the seat height on the WR would make me have to carry phone books in my riding pack.
  8. Im working on valving my 06 yz250 I bought used. I pulled it down and the mid valve is stock but the base valve is 30x.11 x11 28x.11 x1 26x.11 x1 24x.11 x1 22x.11x1 20x.11x1 19x.11x1 18x.11x1 17x.11x1 16x.11x1 15x.11x1 14x.25x2 ......... Where stock is 17-32x.11 1-30x.11 1-28x.11 1-26x.11 1-24x.11 1-22x.11 1-20x.11 1-18x.11 1-15x.11 2-14x.25. What would the 30mm shims in place of the 32mm shims do? Im new to valving and this will be my first attempt, I have read alot on here and have learned alot but Just want to understand effect the smaller shims will have. I plan on going back to stock valving and adjusting from them but just trying to learn what I can.
  9. Hey all, I have a 07 crf250r...the wife ordered me a bunch of suspension goodies for my birthday. The last of which was racetech gold valves for the rear shock. She ordered part number smgv5003, but the company sent smgv 5001... Even said smgv 5003 on the invoice. I called the shop about the mishap, and they were very unhelpful and told me that the 5001 will work fine. I said that race techs site suggested the 5003 when you punch in my bike. Anyways, I have to call them back on Monday "because no one there with authority to process the return was there..." I put a call into racetech, but I burned up so much time on the phone trying to get the guy to authorize the exchange, racetech had closed for the day. Aside from the part number, how much o a difference is there between the 5001 and the 5003, so when I call back on Monday an they continue to give me a hard time about the exchange, I'll have something intelligent to say about the specs? Thanks!
  10. farfromhome63

    Showa TC

    Anyone got a good baseline for some showa 47s? Mx setting? This is what I have for a comp stack.. I dont know whats in the MV but its really soft.. 30x.10 -7 22x.10 30x.10 28x.10 26x.10 25x.10 23x.10 21x.10 20x.10 19x.10 18x.10
  11. I've created this thread for converting WP CC "internal bladder" forks (Not 4CS) to KYB/Showa "spring style" ICS internal cartridges. WP now offers the WP Race Performance Fork Kit (Part number: 48601441s) which can be purchased from PG Suspension and other WP suspension dealers. The cost of these new kits is somewhere in the neighborhood of $1100+. Qualify this thread: First let me qualify my point of view on this topic by stating that I am not an engineer or a suspension expert by any means. I am simply a MX enthusiast with basic/intermediate experience and skills in suspension tuning for KYB and WP forks. My depth of tuning ranges from typical oil, spring, and seal changes up-to refreshing OEM components on my WP CC bladder style forks. I am very meticulous in my approach, but I generally only follow best practices from suspension experts. I have not dived into more advanced modifications such as re-valving or modifying shim stacks. As an owner of two 2011 KTM's (150 & 250sx) with CC bladder forks and having ridden approx. 175 hours between both bikes, I feel it's a good depth of experience to compare the forks before and after the conversion. The Problem as I see it: It's well known that KTM's with WP Closed Chamber Bladder forks are not designed to be speed sensitive (different rates of speed in which the forks compress), therefore creating what many people and magazine testers have referred to as mid-stroke harshness. While the CC Bladder forks seem to perform well in "full stroke" or heavy compression scenarios, their performance is very sub-par and uncomfortable in lighter scenarios where only partial to mid-stroke compression occurs...compared to the Japanese suspension manufacturers. The typical scenarios for noticing the harshness of the WP CC bladder forks are whenever you encounter smaller style chatter or acceleration bumps, or generally whenever the forks need to compress at a fast rate of speed but without enough force/weight to be compressed more fully. While mid-stroke harshness is often referenced, I like to think of it as initial stroke harshness and/or "slap rebound" as the sensation experienced feels like your hands are being slapped. I find the slap is more clearly noticeable on lighter bikes while heavier 4 strokes give the sensation of a more mid-stroke harshness. The Theory: In overall design, the WP forks are very similar to Kayaba forks with the exception that WP chose to use a air bladder style cartridge instead of a spring-based system. The new WP Race Performance Kit is a direct replacement of the air bladder for a spring style system (see attachment). In theory, this should allow the initial movement of the fork to be more "speed sensitive" as the movement of oil pushing on the spring and valving should be more linear or progressive. On lighter faster hits, the air bladder simply doesn't react fast enough or and even prevents the initial compression stroke from being smooth and linear. The Goal of this thread: I have ordered a WP Race Performance Fork Kit and will seek to fine-tune forks on my 2011 250sx initially and then on my 150sx later on. I fellow friend has ordered the Kit for installation on a 2014 350sx-f. While the Kit is expected to be a direct replacement, it's highly likely additional tuning to maximize performance will be found by other early adopters of this kit. As more knowledge is gained we hope you will share your experiences in this thread so that we will hopefully resolve our woe's with WP CC Forks. My plan is to install the kit on my 250sx over the next couple of weeks, begin riding and then note my findings. I hope others will do the same.
  12. 443dirt

    Honda CRF450R (2007)

    0 comments

    she's a strong runner, but a bit much in the tight stuff
  13. slim105

    Suspension HELP!

    I just traded my 93 cr125 for a 96 cr250 and when I jump it as soon as I come off the ground and my forks extend It feels like they bottom out and you can feel it in the handel bars it does not feel right at all you can actually hear it hit or bottom out not shure what its doing....Im thinking there is no fork oil in the forks or my spring is to soft..any help at all will be appreciated.
  14. Hiya. I am getting ready to set up my shim stack and install GR-2 gold valves in my 2014 S forks. When I remove the OE stack and valve, there is no base plate between the stack and the body. (at least not the size/style I was expecting) I attached pics of what I think may be the "base plate", but they look more like spacing shims to me. They are larger in diameter and a bit thicker than the smallest stack shims that sit against them. Could someone shed some light on this?
  15. DEATH_INC.

    Husqvarna TXC 450 (2010)

    0 comments

    Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now
  16. There are a lot of discussion on shim stacks. Everyone is looking for info on how to tweak the shims to get a better ride. It's helpful to think of how shim changes alter the damping curve. When we run a dyno test, we test at different velocities to get an overall picture of how the shock is working. Here is a quick look at a shock compression stack: - - The velocities are displayed as inches per second (ips) and the comp force numbers are in lbs. - - Looking at the graph of the damping curve, this particular stack looks digressive. - - The lower velocities on the test would correspond to lower shaft velocities on the bike, and the same for higher velocities. Dips and g-outs are in the 10-20 ips range, and bump control is in the 50+ ips range. Most of the 'curve' in the damping curve happens in the first 40 ips. After that the forces become fairly linear. - - - - - - - - - - - - - If we run two tests side by side, we can get a quick picture of the difference in their damping curves. Here is a graph and the compression numbers from two dyno tests from a YZF 250 shock (KYB 46 piston with the 18 shaft). - - These two dyno tests show a considerably different in the compression numbers, and you can see how the damping curve has changed. ---> For fun, take a guess at how many shims it would take (and where in the stack) to get this much of a difference in the compression force numbers. Then tomorrow I will put up the actual difference in the valve stacks. Don't worry about guessing wrong, it's all for fun.
  17. WIXConA96

    Suzuki RM250 (1996)

    0 comments

    I love this bike in the woods the forks are so plush and its very easy to steer with the rear end
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