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Found 23 results

  1. Can anyone help me with adjusting my fuel/air mix with a Boyesen Quickshot carburetor? I see a black knob but as far as I know all it does is adjust the idle. I cant seem to find a guide on how to lean out or make it richer. It's on an 05 kx250f. When I'm at the bottom of the rpm range in first or second gear and dump the throttle too hard, the engine cuts out for a second. Am I running too rich?
  2. Hello Everyone! I just purchased a 2015 CRF150RB for my girlfriend to learn on. I had the same bike some 10 years ago and it suited me well so I figured it would probably be a good learner for her with some extra room once she wants to go a little faster. I picked the bike up with supposedly 50Hrs on it, although I'd guess it's higher. The bike is completely stock (to my knowledge) with the exception of an R&D Flex-Jet. Problem is.. I bought it down in Phoenix, and I live and ride in Sedona/Flagstaff area so we have a pretty significant difference in altitude. Typically riding between 4,000-6,000ASL, and 65-90F temps. I have no idea what jets are in it currently (PO says stock), but the bike just doesn't want to start! Probably take 20-30 kicks to get it running, and it runs pretty well once it's going but a real PITA to kick back up again once the girlfriend stalls it. The bike probably needs a valve adjustment, but I don't want a half torn apart bike in the garage over the holidays so I figure it would be best to make sure I have all the parts to put it back together all at once. I think I've read every single thread on this site about jetting and thoroughly boggled my mind with different opinions, trying to compare setups to other people's setups at similar temps/altitude. So where should I go from here? Pilot jet? Main jet? Needle position? JD jetting kit? What's your experience, and where should I be looking to make this thing run nicely for her so she can start it in a couple kicks instead of a couple hundred kicks. Not too worried about spending some cash, but I prefer to do the work myself. Thanks for the input everyone!
  3. I just recently bought a 2013 CRF250R to work on and get familiar with. It wasn’t until after I bought the bike that the previous owner mentioned he ran VP T4 fuel in the bike. I was wondering if I am able to run 93 octane from the pump or I am strictly limited to T4 now? The previous owner said the bike has a ported head, Web Camshaft, and a JE piston so I do not know if that matters. Sorry if this sounds like an easy/stupid question. I am trying to learn as much as I can. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  4. Since the amount of older bikes and problems are popping up with difficult starting problems, I wanted to start a thread on the fuels I think being used just are crap and probably part of the on going problems. If you can start with knowing you have good fresh fuel and if you can buy it without the garbage corn ethanol do so! These older bikes need good powerful fuel which ignites. Start there before kicking your brains out and taking your bikes apart.
  5. Hi Forum, Have a 2015 KTM XCF 350 whith on-going issues with fuel... symptoms: Hard to start - even with choke (always hot where I am so never really gets below 25C engine temp) backfires and farts - and flames out on low revs - lithium bat can flatten trying to start when it cuts out all the time hard to idle - raise idle RPM but still tends to flame out sometimes - not too bad when its been running for a while (but quite different to other 350 F's i ride with) after sitting for a week or so exhibits the same issues but also tends to starve of fuel after a high rev and I shut the throttle down - seems to rectify itself after a 40min ride or so.. Work thus far replaced all the filters replaces the fuel injector unit replaced with after-market HV pump fitted inline Zip Ty fuel filter Things that may impact this could be Tropical climate (28-32C and 60-80% humidity consistent) Potentially poor fuel quality (but I don't know - works fine the car) infrequent ride (due to work the bike could sit for 3-4 weeks without a run at the longest) but generally is gets a run every week if i cant ride at the track. - symptoms are more prevalent after longer periods between rides Any thoughts??? Images .... the o-ring on the zip ty filter split when i was at the track (my bad i was pissed) - are these the same as the standard fuel line o-rings ? (i tried afew from a generic o-ring kit in the garage but some were too large and other - well it looked like a fountain so no joy) Also looking in the quick connect - the nylon insert looks broken to me (not sure what this should look like- full circle?) would this impact it?
  6. Did a top end and right side crank seal put it all back together and the fuel pours out of carb on overflow tube when riding full throttle then stopping. Rebuilt the carb, pours constantly. Its been apart 12 times cleaning and checking float level amd i just dont know what to do
  7. Can anybody help me out a little bit,i have a 2005 wr450f i bough5 recently with a 25litre safari tank on it, im trying to track down an original tank, does anybody know if YZ450f and WR450f fuel tanks are interchangeable? They are both 2005 models, cheers.
  8. Hi all, Back after a hiatus from supermotos after I sold my KTM 625SMC. Now I've got a 701SM (2016) and ... of course, fuel injection, no more carbs! Couple of questions I hope someone can help with - the bike already had a few mods: Akrapovic slip on, with EVO Airbox mod. power commander V ABS dongle mod Those are all that's really relevant for this post. Essentially the previous owner told me that 0 was the bad quality fuel map, 1 was sport map and 2 onwards were standard maps. Doing a little digging, it turned out this wasn't quite correct. 1 is the soft map, 2 is the sport map and 3 onwards are standard as far as I've found. 0 is of course the bad fuel map only for dire situations on low octane. My question is, will the PCV change these maps at all? I don't know where to control the PCV maps 'on the fly' - seems this requires a separate module? Other than this I think I have it right that the PCV control injection, whereas the underseat switch controls ignition timing. This would make sense given that on low octane, preventing detonation is usually Achieved by regarding ignition. Can anyone correct me or give any of their findings? Thanks Wilbert
  9. I was wondering how far one can usually go on reserve with a crf250x
  10. Hi guys, i mounted a full fmf 4.1 ti system on my 2016 kx450f, I'd like to give a little more fuel and I'm wondering if i could use one of that wiseco fuel controller boxes avoiding to remap the ecu. There are some model for the 2013-2015 but I can't find any for the 2016-2018. Any advice? Thanks
  11. Wondering if someone could help me or at least point me in the right direction. My son's SX50 was running absolutely fine until at the track last week when it started cutting out. I was having to keep the throttle blipped to keep the bike started and on other occasions, blipping the throttle would cause it to bog down instead. The bike has good solid compression, I've taken the carb off and cleaned it as well as the throttle cable line. Checked the plug and cleaned the air filter. The bike also starts with no issues at all. At this stage I'm thinking it has to be something to do with the carb. I'm just wondering, does someone have the stock settings for the idling screw and the brass screw? The brass screw was out 6 turns and the idling screw was out 5. I'm hoping its a stock carb and I can revert it back to factory settings. Thanks Edit: I have just checked the reed valves and they appear to be fine. It has VForce3 reeds and a Delloro carb fitted. I have also just removed and cleaned all the jets in the carb. It looks super clean. Completely out of ideas now.
  12. I have a 2017 kx450 and is my first fuel injected bike. I'm curious to which coupler people are running using 50/50 vp t4 and pump gas. My bike will sit at times so don't want junky pump gas just sitting in it. Have yosh slip on. Stock bike. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
  13. NO HATE OR SMARTARSE. Hi all, i have recently bought a 2003 yz250. I have gotten it freighted so i have only looked at photos and a video of a start although, those don't prove much. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help me please do. If you have had the same year or similar and model please tell me what you ran? PLEASE NOTE - I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA. 1. Because i have gotten it freighted, the fuel has been drained. A mate wants to test the gears and some other stuff, so i am going to buy 3l of fuel to test, what ratio should i mix at and what fuel and oil should i use? 2. I'm riding in the bush with a couple of mates on 250 2 strokes, there will be quite alot of dirty,dust,rocks etc, what would be the best air filter and oil? 3. I wouldn't consider myself a pro rider but, I ride fairly hard, I want the bike to be healthy and in good condition. I don't want to replace the top end for at least 40+ hrs. What would be the best fuel to oil ratio, and what would be the best fuel and oil to mix with? 4. I plan on doing a top end, service, power valve and carb clean and maybe add v force reeds (if gears and the other stuff are good) Watched a couple youtube videos of top ends and they look easy, power valve looks a little hard but i think i can do it, have never cleaned a carb on a 250 so not sure what to do. If i added vforce reeds would it need to be jetted? (Don't know how to jet either) Think that is it for now. I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA.. Thank you
  14. Hello, I drive 125cc chinese pit bike. It has new cylinder, piston, piston rings, air filter, spark plug and carburetor, but sometimes some dirt or little grass comes and clogs carb float, mechanic told me to buy a fuel filter, but I cant buy it right now. Can I maybe make 'improvized' fuel filter out of something until I buy new one? Thank!
  15. My 2001 rm125 petcock peaks fuel out of the face of the petcock. I tried fixing it by creating a metal spacer and outing that behind the gasket in the petcock to squish the gasket and seal better, but it made the leak worse. What can I do to fix this?
  16. 2004 ttr125. Me and my son cleaned the carb and fuel lines between the tank and the carb. Both were very dirty. The fuel would not flow out of the open fuel cock it was so clogged with gunk. The bike would not run at all prior to this, now it only runs with a fresh squirt of starter fluid. In the carb we cleaned the jets and the float pin & port (or whatever you call the point where the fuel stops flowing with floats, float). Seems like a fuel delivery issue. Advise please.
  17. Hello all, brand new to this forum. Bought an 07 Xr650l yesterday, with 6k miles on it. Great condition visually. However, it seems to not have the power it should, and cuts out/hesitates intermittently at speeds above 55, after it warms up. The previous owner admitted this before I bought it, and said it has sat too long and needs it's carb cleaned, but ran great before it sat. My Honda shop wants 3-5 hours of labor to do this. It had about 2 gallons of gas when I got it, so I added some Gunk and ran 70 miles today, ran it out of gas, re-filled with 91 octane and more Gunk, and the problem is still there. Now, cleaning the air filter, which wasn't too dirty. The bike starts and putts around well, the problem seems to occur at high rpm under load. The current top speed is about 75 mph, but it kind of bucks past 55. The sprockets and chain are original, stock. I have to work pretty hard to get it to lift the front wheel in 2nd gear. My 79 XR500 had more power! Does this sound like the carb will need to be pulled, serviced, and tuned? The bike has been de-smogged, and has an FMF exhaust and Dynaflow carb jets, unknown size. 3,500' elevation here, and I bought it locally. Thanks!
  18. So I've confronted with a problem, I'm looking for a larger fuel tank for a Yamaha TTR-250. I know the Acerbis 20L tanks are a option but the ones for Honda XR-650 can be used and their someone who sells a mounting kit for them. Which is great but would a 20L Acerbis TTR-250 Tank fit straight on using what's provided in box. Or would I need to fabricate mounts. Which is what I'm trying to avoid. If the TTR-250 Tank requires fabrication, I'll go for the XR's Tank and the kit. There's just a miscommunication, on EBay the item just says mounting included but it earlier states you need to make mounts. Does anyone have experience?
  19. Have a 2003 BMW F650GS Dakar ABS - was left unused for 3yrs. Gas went bad. Have removed the gas, cleaned the tank, will be swapping out the pump, drained the lines up to the Fuel Filter/Regulator. Have concerns about running new gas through a filter that had the “bad” gas in it. Was surprised to find the replacement part could be as much as $175+ dollars. Is there anyone out there that might suggest a fix other than OEM part replacement?
  20. I was riding the other day when my DRZ sputtered out. I pulled over and found the vacuum hose disconnected from the petcock. I reconnected it and rode home. Fast forward a few days, left the house and the bike sputtered out again. This time not only was the vacuum hose disconnected, it was gone! Pushed the bike a mile back home. Noticed the petcock leaking a little fuel and the smell of fuel in my oil. Ordered an OEM petcock, installed it, drained the oil and put in fresh oil. Installed a replacement vacuum hose. New spark plug. BIKE STILL WONT STAY RUNNING. It will start if I prime it but wont stay running, sputters out after a moment. Is it my carb? Could the vacuum hose coming loose while riding damage the internals of the carb? I drained the float valve, fuel stopped coming out after a moment. It was idling fine before all this. Fresh oil, new petcock, vacuum hose intact. I'm pulling the carb tomorrow. What should I be looking for? Thanks in advance.
  21. A friend of mine asked me to fix his drz125 for him. The bike was put away running and sat for about 6 years In a shed. I cleaned the carb, air box, air filter, etc... and shimed the valves. The bike will start right up 1st kick but when it gets hot it will only idle and die out when u give it gas. I think it's a fuel related issue but I don't know what else to do. Please help, any ideas are appreciated.
  22. I have been building my Dust Rocket from the xr600r platform, to use for exploring the tight places in the high altitude mountains of Wyoming. I did a lot of research, looking for information on how to jet the bike, and found almost none for altitudes past 5,000 feet. I found one thread of a person years ago asking for information at my altitude ranges, but there were few quality responses, and the person did not discuss his findings in great detail. Since i have spent a weekend perfecting the tuning of this carb at a particular high altitude, I decided it would be a good time to create an online public log of my altitude findings for the future to come. Here is what i have found so far. The bike runs well, and the spark plug reading is perfect. I will not go into details of the spark plug reading as I see many different opinions on this board of how 4 stroke spark plugs should be read, and do not want arguments over that detracting from the solid data I have found. Riding today at an average of 8900-9200 feet, with a max of 9400 and a min of 8500 Temperatures 65-90, mix of heavy woods and sand dunes stockbike, uni air filter, oiled with crank case oil, and well drained (dont drain them and youll have an Automatic Drive Chain Lubrication Accessory on the xr) Main jet: 145 Needle position: clip one slot above center position Slow jet: 48 Fuel screw: exactly 2.5 turns out Plug: DRP8EA9 Side notes: I carry one standard, and one size hotter plug for this bike, when its 38 in the mornings i run the hot plug until it is above 60. I do mainly 1/4 throttle in 3rd gear, or steep loose climbs in 1st. I only had 48 and 55 slow jets with me, at 8900 feet with a 55 slow jet i can have the pilot screw at 1/4 turn from closed, and have a rich 1/4 throttle and below
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