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Found 892 results

  1. ronniegodfrey67

    Upgraded reeds?

    1986 CR250 - DG pipe and silencer - stock motor Boysen or V-Force 3... I have heard that the VF3 reeds offer a crisper and sharper throttle response than the Boysen and that the Boysen offers a more tunable, broader power band. Can anyone tell me what their opinion and or experience is with these 2 reeds?
  2. srsteele

    Jets

    Just got a rm 250 I was told it is jetted real lean for elevation 5000 ft he thought it was about 165 I'm going to ride at elevation 1500 ft ish what adjustments should I make?
  3. BobBelcher

    Fuel Screw

    Just bought 2006 yz250f and its my first dirtbike. Definitely notice a change in performance based on temperature. (As you should) Also it wont idle long at warmer temps 60+. How much of this can be contolled with the fuel screw? Or is the jetting my issue? Thanks!
  4. So you have a bike that is not running. Maybe it is a bike that you have had for years and it has just been sitting or it is a bike your looking at for sale but the owner states "ran when parked" meaning, it doesn't run now. As a matter of fact the latter is how you can generally get a great deal on a bike and with this article and video you can take advantage of that non running bikes low price. Typically the reason a bike was running and now isn't is usually fairly simple. Most problems can be traced to the fuel system, probably causes is fuel was left in the system creating a varnish like substance when the lighter elements of the fuel flashed off. This leaves the small passageways clogged or plugged resulting in inconsistent or no fuel flow. There also could be minor ignition issues but usually that is rare, more on that later. Lets get back to basics. Click on the Getting a non running bike running video to see an in depth video of the procedure outlined below: Step 1 Evaluate the bike, is it missing crucial parts for it to run? If not start the dis-assembly for cleaning and inspection this includes the fuel tank itself. If it is missing parts, locate or source the missing parts before going further as this will minimize delays further in the process. Step 2 Fully disassemble the carburetor and fuel shut off. These are the most common places that the problems will originate as well as where most of the debris preventing proper fuel flow and metering will be found. Step 3 Clean, clean, clean, and more cleaning. Carburetor dip is a good idea for the carb body and other related parts. Just remember to remove any rubber or fiber parts as carburetor dip may "eat" or dissolve them. Step 4 While your carburetor parts are soaking check out the ignition components. Replace the spark plug, it is cheap, and will rule out a potentially faulty plug of unknown condition, refer to a service manual for specific testing if you have a "no spark" condition. Most "no spark" conditions can be traced to a kill switch wire grounding out at the handlebar or somewhere along the harness. Step 5 Reassemble the carburetor returning all the settings like the float height, jetting specs, and air/fuel screw (depending on which it has) to the factory specs found in the manual. Re-install the tank and fuel shut off. Attach the fuel lines use clamps when necessary. Fill the tank with a little bit of fuel open the tap and check for leaks and/or a flooding carburetor. Step 6 If the previous steps were done properly attempt to start the bike. Be sure your in neutral and have your hand on the throttle and kill switch for safety so you can shut down the bike should something happen.
  5. MikePerkins

    Suzuki RM125 (2004)

    0 comments

    It's my first track bike and 2-smoke and it is awesome! Trails are still king tho. Like to work on it and just added a boyesen RAD valve. gotta dial it in a little more.
  6. jkrauter77

    Honda CRF150F (2005)

    0 comments

    Great Bike!
  7. windkind

    Suzuki DR-Z400SM (2006)

    0 comments

    Bloody brilliant little bike!
  8. 1 review

    The stock Suzuki DRZ Mikuni carburetor float bowl screws are easily stripped out, causing headaches for many owners. This simple kit solves the problem once and for all.
  9. ThumperTalk

    Scary Fast Racing Power Now

    2 reviews

    Bigger horsepower improvements with greater power at 1/4 and 1/2 throttle Assists the vacuum of the fast moving air Volumetric engine efficiency through uncompromised airflow velocity
  10. ThumperTalk

    No Toil Airbox Cover

    1 review

    Wash your bike like the pros! PVC airbox cover fastens securely and completely protects your carb intake with a watertight seal Remove filter, install airbox cover and pressure wash the inside of your airbox with no worries Strong PVC construction with a rubber sealing ring Use stock cage screw to install
  11. 2 reviews

    The inventor of the easy-adjust fuel screw and Moose Racing bring you this needed accessory 7075 T-7 aluminum construction and re-designed pin taper set this screw apart from the competition Adjust your carb for better off-idle acceleration with just your fingers Includes O-ring, washer, and heavy-duty spring Made in the U.S.A.
  12. 1 review

    Mapping pre-installed based on HMF dyno results Easy installing using existing wiring harness Push button key pad lets you adjust as you ride Water and shock resistant
  13. ThumperTalk

    Boyesen Super Stock Reeds

    2 reviews

    Matched to OEM specs Uses the latest in carbon technology for the stock carbon reed Last longer and cost less than any stock or aftermarket carbon or single fiber reeds on the market
  14. 2 reviews

    Packaged as 1 complete unit (Z-FI controller, harness, shift switch and adapter rod) Shares the same features as the Z-FI controller except for the added Quick Shift capability Uses patent pending, QCK ignition cut for smooth, clutchless up-shifting User-adjustable, gear-dependent kill times for optimal shifting in all gears Updated shift switch and application-specific adapter rods for 2007 Shift kits are available in either standard or reverse shifting configurations For closed course competition use only. NOT FOR STREET USE May not be legal for sale or use in California or in other localities due to state and/or federal anti-tampering laws
  15. chemomche

    KTM 250 SX (2001)

    0 comments

    Great bike! Strong bottom end and insane top end. Very light and easy to ride when off the pipe. NECJ suzuki needle did a big improvement on the jetting. The bike pulls like my brother's 520 EXC at low and middle and rips on the top.
  16. Pastafarian

    Suzuki DR-Z400SM (2006)

    0 comments

    LOVE IT!
  17. Kenpo1

    Yamaha YZ250 (2008)

    0 comments

    It's a two stroke, so it's awesome. FMF Fatty pipe, Turbinecore 2 silencer, No toil filter, IMS footpegs, Fasst Flexx bars, Fastway system 3 stabilizer, Tusk Impact rims and hubs, Hammer head shifter and brake peddle, WR 3-5 gear conversion. Oversized front wave rotor with Galfer steel braided brake line, Tusk aluminium throttle tube w/ bearing, Acerbis front disk guard and roost guards, TM design works rear disk guard, chain slider and chain guid, E-line carbon fiber skid plate, Tusk case saver, Z rear brake clevis, suspension done by Stillwell performance, Lectron carburetor and 2012 YZ450 triple clamps (22mm offset).... I think that's everything. <br /><br />Oh, pictured with IMS dry-break ready tank. I went back to stock after getting the Lectron carby! <br />
  18. nateb1583

    Yamaha WR426F (2001)

    0 comments

    Love It!! Got a great deal and it is a monster.
  19. Mbagnal

    Honda CRF250L (2014)

    0 comments

    Commute to work during the week, ride the local single track on the weekend! Doesn't get any better!
  20. Erik.H.M

    Honda CRF250X (2009)

    0 comments

    Nice and strong bike. Easy to ride in technical trails. (It's actually a 2010 though)
  21. vml5

    Yamaha YZ250F (2014)

    0 comments

    Go Yamaha!
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