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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, Once an error code is present, does the bike need to be taken to the dealer to "clear" the code? I have the 9 short flashes FI blink, which is the MAPsensor voltage too high or too low, according to the manual. I previously had the throttle body OFF the bike looking into a non-starting issue which turned out to be a stuck injector. After putting everything back together the bike ran fine but had the aforementioned FI error blink. One person I talked with said it is not hard to get the bike to throw a code and legitimate or not the only way to clear it was to take it to the dealer. Is this a true statement? Or would the code erase itself if the problem was corrected? Does KTM offer more in depth service manuals for electrical trouble shooting or just the service manual to the general public? Thanks for any help in advance. Jeff in Michigan
  2. 1 review

    DESIGN Wade Wilcox of Injectioneering spent countless hours developing his modification and almost as much time explaining to us how it works. Make no mistake about it, this modification is very complex. Wade confided every secret angle and specification to us, trusting that we wouldn’t divulge his secrets to any potential copycats, but we’ll tell you the general idea. When the stock butterfly closes in the bore of the throttle body, it doesn’t close at a 90-degree angle, but at a less-than-vertical tilt. Wade’s mod allows the butterfly to close much closer to perpendicular. Combining a steeper butterfly angle with a pressure compensation hole in the butterfly itself means that the airflow is smoother and starts sooner than with the stock butterfly valve. The more linear airflow of the modified throttle body allows the operating sensors, which work on a linear algorithm, to perform better. It’s more complicated than that, but we aren’t taking a college course in fuel injection?we just want to ride. INSTALLIATION Your throttle body must be sent to Injectioneering. They promise a 48-hour turnaround (and we hope they fulfill that promise given their rocky start last year). Removing and reinstalling a throttle body is different from doing the same procedure with a carburetor, and extra care must be taken with the fuel lines and electrical connections. PERFOMANCE The stock CRF450 has a snappy response to small throttle twists. Too snappy for many people. With the Injectioneering throttle body, the throttle response starts sooner, picks up quicker, rockets out of corners and is a tremendous improvement. Every MXA test rider was amazed by the improved pickup of our CRF450. Although the Injectioneering throttle body only affects the first 25 percent of the throttle position, the surge off the bottom helps the power carry better into the midrange. This is an impressive mod. FLAME-ON At any ability level, testers appreciated the absence of flameout. The CRF can still stall, of course, but the dreaded cough after chopping the throttle is gone. COMPATIBILITY We tested the Injectioneering throttle body on different CRF450s (from stock to slightly modified to full race) and with three different test riders (a novice, intermediate and pro). The Injectioneering throttle body worked well on each bike and for all three skill levels.
  3. The intent of this article is to give a general over view of current off road motorcycle fuel injection. There are alot of myths and misunderstand regarding fuel injection in this realm of usage. Lets start with what fuel injection can and cannot do as far self compensation. It cannot compensate for any change in flow. Regardless of intake/exhaust changes,fuel type or engine mods the ECU will contiuinue control the fuel and ignition as if it were stock. There is no sensor that monitors flow. What it can do is compensate for elevation (barometric pressure sensor) and air temperature (intake air temperature sensor). If the base fuel and ignition map are correct and the bike runs perfect in one condition,it will also run perfectly as the conditions change. The reality of the situation is just like stock carburetor jetting isnt perfect neither is the stock fuel injection mapping. Until the manufactures update the systems to use oxygen sensors and/or air flow meters it will be up to the end user the correct the fueling and ignition for the specific modifications done and conditions/situations they are used in. Fueling is corrected for flow changes. Ignition timing is altered to tailor the power delivery and to take advantage of low grade or high grade fuel. So how do you go about tuning your fuel injected motorcycle? You first need to purchase/aquire the fuel injection tuning device you desire or use the services of a tuning specialist such as my self or several others. If you intend to do your own tuning you will also need to invest in a wide band air fuel ratio meter. With out a wide band air fuel ratio meter you will be just guessing and may as well be blindly pounding on the key board. Once you have the fueling correct you can move on to altering ignition timing to change the power delivery. You must have a device capable of altering the ignition. Currently only the OEM flash tuner offer this option. All other "piggy back" tuners are not currently capable of controlling the ignition. The "piggy back" tuners do however offer much more friendly and quicker to use. The ultimate way to tune is via the use of the OEM flash tool to control the ignition and "piggy back" tuner to control the fuel. This may be cost prohibitive for most end user unless you enlist the service of a specialist. In that case you don't actually buy the OEM flash tuner. If you are lucky enough to live near or able to travel a to a capable tuning specialist they can tune your motorcycle on a dyno. This is the most accurate method. However a reflash via mail or purchasing a tuning device with a pre loaded map for your specific set up can work very well. In the next installment i will cover the capabilities of the different tuning devices on the market and pro's and con's of each. Eddie Sisneros
  4. Hello, I’ve recently put a new akrapovic exhaust on a 2020 Ktm 300xcw 6 days, i immediately without testing it first brought it to a local dealer to get updated fuel mapping for the new slip on silencer. i started having major issues, fuel injection is strange to me, it feel like both a rich and lean condition, when I ball the throttle it feels like it goes from lean to rich and the loss of power is significant. I’ve tried both fuel maps using the map selector switch and the number 2 position seems to be worse but they are both bad. I’ve also noticed increased fuel consumption, especially with oil, feels like the bike is loading up. I’m totally at a loss, I assumed getting the map done for the new slip on would be a benefit but I’m coming to the conclusion that I should bring it back for the third time and just have them apply the stock map setting to both 1 and 2 maps. I could use anyone’s input on this; did a new slip on require an update to the map? Did should I return to stock? Are they possibly using the wrong or even last years mapping? please any suggestions would help, thank you.
  5. Stalling issues?? This might help. I pulled this from my "CRF250L Engine Control Details and Tech thread" so it can be discussed seperately here Look for the minimum air flow adjuster screw. The screw is the minimum air flow screw. A baseline of sorts. The IAC valve is what controls the extra airflow need to reach the correct idle speed. It is set below idle speed to reduce emissions and conserve fuel on decel. As the engine rpm gets close to the idle rpm the IAC adds air as needed. The reason the adjuster has white paint on it is because adjusting it is an federal emissions violation and may cause grief at the dealer too. (It looks and flows the same as some partially dried up Testor model paint). 😉 It is set by the factory to allow a specfic amount air flow. Adjusting the screw slightly should help solve the stalling problem, but the TPS sensor should be adjusted and reset. Valvoline makes some brake cleaner that will take the paint right off. Just don't get it on any other paint. On a side note: I was able to remove the factory side panel number plate paint in about one minute with this. It even removes factory engine paint. If you are having a stall out problem start by cleaning and inspecting the throttle body. Remove then clean the IAC and the chamber the valve runs in. This is to make sure the valve isn't sticking and to allow more air to flow. This probably isn't the issue since the bikes have low mileage. You'll have to see how much residue there is to know for sure. Also clean any residue off of the throttle plate edges and bore. This will increase the airflow when the throttle is fully closed. I would probe the TPS sensor before making any adjustments so it can be readjusted to that value if needed. The TPS and IAC valve will need to reset and the computers adaptive memory should be erased. Note: Adjusting that screw is concidered a no-no by the feds and some dealers. I'm not telling thou... 😏
  6. 0 comments

    After a few simple mods this bike is absolutely awesome! Injectioneering throttle body, suspension from RC tech and Youshi slip on being the main ones.
  7. Hi there, For an MEng group project, we have been given the task of modifying the 2007 450 SX-F for a Formula Student Race Car. The Engine has already previously run in the car last year, but we had some issues involving the decompression cam. Anyway, that has been fixed now. The plan is to run the engine on E85 and upgrade to forced induction and direct injection. I believe the engine has already been converted to indirect injection, using a Jenvey ITB. I am just wondering if it has been heard of, or maybe even possible to modify it to direct injection. Regards, Liam.
  8. This is about the EJK Jet Kit, FMF controller and JD jetting controllers I pulled this from my "CRF250L Engine Control Details and Tech thread" so it can be discussed seperately here. Link: http://www.thumperta...nd-tech-thread/ Here goes.... EJK Jet Kit, FMF controller and JD jetting controller Operating Principles Tuning and Adjustments EJK = Electronic Jet Kit. (They give a great military discount if you served) JD Jetting is the same controller. The FMF controller is the same also. It is used withe Best Dual Sport bike's Stage 1 kit. FC = Fuel controller These are an aftermarket fuel controllers ("a magic wands" in a way 🙂 ) Excellent information about installation tuning and diagnostics is available at RamZ's incredible site 👍http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250L.htm Here's are some links so you know what products is being discussing. http://www.electroni...tnumber=9110028 http://www.jdjetting...167&cat=&page=1 This tuning link from EKG that will help understand it's operation and this post. http://www.electroni....com/tuning.asp Here is a link from JD Jetting that may also help. http://jdjetting.com/html/faq.htm#demo Lets not forget a link to BDSB's site http://bestdualsport...3-honda-crf250l The EJK's version 3 allows stock settings to be used and/or to add fuel as needed only. FMF controller(from what I found) and the JD fuel controller allows stock settings to be used and/or add or subtract fuel as needed also(as far as I have found). This will increase the tuning abilitys as more modifications are done. Many owners have this product in use now but aren't sure how it functions, should be set, tuned and adjusted. Both can be used in both open and closed loop modes or just open loop mode. The best way to run the FC IMO would be with the O2 sensor plugged in for operation in open and closed loop modes. Here are some basics I have figured out I believe... 🙄 It changes the injector pulse width to make the fuel curve richer or leaner if needed. Lets look at open loop operation first. The suggested way to keep it in open loop by Best Dual Sport Bikes to leave the O2 sensor disconnected. This should work fine. Setting when it switches on at idle or above idle is an area I'm not sure of. Idle would be where i would start the setting at and the ending point will be when it switches to the second stage of the FC. It will probably need some fuel added (but don't get carried away since it should be set so closed loop operation works correctly if you use it). This will need to be set for about 14.6 to 1 A/F ratio unless you have ethanol gasoline then a richer A/F ratio may be needed. At about 50% throttle to about 80% throttle the FC should switch to its 2nd adjustment range. This 2nd stage engagement should be tuned to switch on about when the engine controller goes in open loop mode normally. It should be tuned to add fuel at this point to reach about a 13 to 1 A/F ratio. The FC is tuned to add extra fuel to the base fuel curve in this range. At 80% to WOT the FC goes into it's 3rd adjustment range. You will be adding fuel adding extra fuel again to the base fuel curve This is where the engine needs its richest at about a 12 to 1 A/F ratio. Since the base program changes for engine temp, altitude and other parameters these adjustments will rarely need to be changed after they are fine tuned for your bike. The open load setting may vary slightly at high altitudes or when it is very cold or hot out so you might have a few settings you like... The FC's 1st stage can be set-up for operation in both open loop and closed loop modes also. Why you ask? The bike idles and runs nice on th road and gets great fuel economy stock right. You want more power thou. You can achieve them both by doing it, thats why.... First you would adjust it just like described for open loop mode. The key is to set the open loop mode to about a 14 to 1 A/F ratio. Plug the O2 sensor back in and you should be done. The engine controller will make adjustments to reach it's desired O2 sensor just like when it was stock, except it's reading slightly rich insteady of lean. The computers adaptive memory can and will adjust it as needed. It doesn't know if you opened up the air box, put a pipe on it and the fuel controller. It just knows the O2 sensor needs to read correctly and makes the adjustments. If you set the first stage too rich the computer might set an O2 sensor rich code because it has to adjust too much. This is why you want to have the mixture set quite close in open loop mode. You might want to unplug the O2 sensor for offroad use and plug it back for on road use possibly also. Remember it's your bike do what ever is best for you. These systems is ideal because once you have increased the air flow and fuel flow need for your built engine the injector can be swapped to a larger one or the fuel pressure increased. This will bring the adjustments back to correct range so the base program with the FC will work correctly for built engine. You know what I mean. 😏 Something like a 280cc big bore with a ported head, bored throttle body and a full stainless exhaust system putting out 30 hp with ease... This was just a quick fuel controller tuning guide. You will need fine tune your bike some due to your modifications, climate and/or altitude. The best way to tune and adjust this system is with a wide band O2 sensor to accurately see and adjust the A/F ratio. Some units can data log also. Hand held ones are available if you want to adjust other bikes or cars also. Let's here how you are using yours, how its hooked up and what adjustments are working best. Including your mod list will help too. Thanks Note: I am not affiliated in any way with these products.
  9. I have an issue with my fuel injector running when my engine is off. It only happens when my bike has gotten water up in the engine/electrical areas. I've checked a bunch of the connections but can't seem to find the culprit. Does anyone know which connections I should check precisely?
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