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Found 25 results

  1. 11 reviews

    Precision-machined rotary damper has a range of adjustable settings to give you the edge on and off the track Specially designed to help reduce rider fatigue and eliminate headshake; riders will now have the energy and concentration to reduce lap times Built-in 7/8 clearance under bars if fork tubes need to be raised or lowered for chassis setup Compatible with stock or aftermarket top triple clamps
  2. Jr9racing

    Kawasaki ZX600 Ninja ZX-6R (2014)

    0 comments

    Purchased new in May of 2015. This bike hasn't hiccuped once since the day i bought it. Definitely a blast to ride and obviously pretty dang fast. Only thing iv'e had issues with we're the fork seals...but then again that would be my fault lol. No regrets on buying her just yet but we'll see how she does the next few years.
  3. racerden

    KTM 525 EXC (2004)

    0 comments

    Best Baja bike ever; love the forgiving handling at straight line speed
  4. The Anvil

    California Steering stabilizer

    Today was the first time in 3 months I used a stabilizer. I used it for about 15 miles of single track and my arms were pumped. I shut the stabilizer off and the arm pump went away. I can see how these gadgets can help in a sandy wash or sandy hill climb, but I'm not thinking they are needed for anything else. How do you use your stabilizer and it what conditions?
  5. Baxter67

    Beta 300 RR (2015)

    0 comments

    I told my wife I was buying a bike with everything I wanted on it when it's new, so I ordered this on Beta's BYOB at $12,000 total, in July '14 and received it Sept '14, a great deal for what's in the bike, I was surprised she was good with that. The bike has been reliable and has me riding faster than ever.
  6. DASFUEHRER

    GPR 4 vs Scotts on a 300xc

    Im in the market to get a stabilizer on the 300. Not sure which to go with, the gpr4 or a scotts? I race hs/enduros and ride everything from single track to mx. Im really looking for more high speed damping and don't feel/need any stabilization at slower speeds. Ive noticed the head shake effect on the 300 at high speeds, which isnt a good feeling. Whats everyones recommendations?
  7. Slow and Jerky

    Yamaha WR450F (2014)

    0 comments

    Overall I love this bike! Once the EFI is dialed in there is no comparison with a carburetor.
  8. ThumperTalk

    GPR Stabilizer V4

    9 reviews

    Made specifically for sport/road racing bikes Designed to help reduce rider fatigue and elminate headshake, improving lap times Proven fluid control technology thats been squeezed, trimmed, and lightened to be smaller, faster and lighter Shorter fluid ports, new valving, quicker reacting to high speeds Large dial with a definite no-slip grip that locks into place with a positive click at 20 settings Approximately 30% lighter than the GPR original Version 1 Developed extensively in the World Superbike paddock and the AMA Roadracing paddock during the 2007 with incredible results
  9. hezzdown

    KTM 450 XC-W (2009)

    0 comments

    This is one of the best bikes I have owned. It does everything well. It has been dead reliable. Puts a smile on my face every time I throw a leg over it. I bought the bike as a left over in 2011 and at the time of this review it has 1400 miles and 70 hours on it. The only thing that has failed during this time is a radiator cap.
  10. Federali

    Stabilizer input

    Hey all! Hope the holidays are getting off to a great start and the forced family function will not be too bad. I am looking to enter the GNCC off road racing world in 2014 and was wondering if anyone could provide some insight as to a good stabilizer for a 2013 RMZ 250. I looked at the GPR V4 and it appears to meet my needs. I am also curious as to what exactly the stabilizer does beside control/minimize headshake. Is it worth using the stabilizer? Pros/Cons? Are they easy to install and what kind of maintenance am I looking at with it? Of course anything else that is good to know is welcome!
  11. jakebing

    KTM 125 SX (2004)

    0 comments

    best bike for track I have ever ridden (in the 125 class) performs extremely well and i couldn't ask for a better one fast as hell and looks drop dead gorgeous. couldn't ask for a better bike it rips in the desert as well but could use a larger tank if that is the case
  12. not sure which on to get.....what are the differences? thnaks
  13. Canadian K

    GPR Stabilizer Install - 07 KTM 450EXC

    GPR V2 stabilizer - under bar Installation on a 2007 KTM 450 EXC Set up a comfortable work area. Position bike on a stable platform. Secure the bottom triple clamp and fork assembly with a tie down or adjustable strap (to stop lower end from falling out when you take off the upper clamp, later on). You could also wedge a few pieces of wood under the front tire to help keep it at that height. Remove the front head light assembly and the handlebar top clamps. Remove the two bolts holding the computer, signal light brace, etc. attached to the upper clamp. Carefully lower it down onto the front fender (rag wrap to contain). I put two nuts on the end of the bolts to temporarily hold all the parts together so it was easy to reassemble later. I made use of two bungee cords (hanging down from easy up frame) to hold the handle-bars out of the way and relieve any stress on the cables. Remove handle bar mounts (brace the front tire to keep it straight). Remove 5 upper clamp bolts & the top steering stem bolt. Carefully insert a medium size flat head screw driver into each gap in the clamps and spread them just a little bit (<1 mm) to allow clearance for the upper clamp to rise up off the forks. Use a rubber hammer and tap the clamp upward on each side and it should start to move up. Keep tapping up and side to side, until it is off. Remove the stock (metal) dust cover. · Carefully remove the dust cover seal - O ring (you will reuse it). · Now is a good time to grease the steering head bearings using high quality water proof grease. · Slide the (GPR) steel post mount over the steering stem neck. · Re-install the stock dust cover seal around the lip of steering stem neck and install the new plastic (white) dust cover. · Install the upper triple clamp, bolts & stem bolt (refer to owners manual for illustration & torque values). Position the post mount post (pin) vertically in line with the steering stem. Slide post mount up toward the new dust cover so it is almost touching then securely tighten the 6mm allen head pinch bolt. Mount the damper / lower bar mount assembly in the most forward holes of the upper triple clamp using the two allen head bolts. Make sure the pin is securely seated in the slot of the stabilizer arm. Note - Before tightening the allen bolts all the way down, ensure the top of the post pin is flush with the top of the slot in the stabilizer arm. If it is too low, partially disassemble and remove the pin. Tap the under side to move the pin further up into the collar to get the ideal pin height. Reinstall pin correctly and tighten the allen bolts firmly. When the bar mount bolts are tight, the top of the pin must be level with the top of the stabilizer arm. As stated earlier, the pin is press fit into the collar so it can be lightly tapped down to get it flush with the top edge of the stabilizer arm. Install handle bars and set bar position the way you like it. Position the throttle cables so that they will not hang up on the stabilizer. I added a zip tie to hold the cables close to the bars (but not too tight). Keep it loose to let cables slide up and down. Or you can install a crossbar pad that will also help keep the throttle cables away from any pinch points. WARNING – for EXC head light wiring, you will need to bend the wiring harness bracket up and out a bit, so that the wires in back will stay clear of the new post mount when the bars are turned. I also used a zip tie around the wires to hold them snug and keep them away from the “pinch point.” The wires in this area should be checked often to avoid pinch damage. The last step is to make sure the front head light / number plate will fit properly now that the wire harness has been moved out a bit. You will probably need to move a few wires/connectors around the bulb socket to get it all to fit right. Check front brake cable routing, wiring, and make sure signals and head light are all working. That’s it. Now it’s time to go for a ride and test out the new stabilizer. P.S. I really like the higher bar position (especially when standing).
  14. hezzdown

    KTM 300 XC (2013)

    2 comments

    Awesome bike, great suspension right out of the box. Easy to work on. Excellent low end grunt and it still turns in to a rocket with a little twist of the wrist.
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