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Found 497 results

  1. What's the hype with these? And why would someone pay $350 for bars and mounts?
  2. captaincanuck

    Handlebar installation help needed

    Ok so, I'm installing my new pro taper se cr high bend handlebars. I'm stuck at a point where I can't quite get the cover that covers the throttle cable on tight without making it so the throttle won't turn back after turning the throttle. Did I screw up with drilling the hole for the throttle tube? Or possibly do I need to put more grease inside of the cover? Anyone getting back to me as soon as possible would be much appreciated.
  3. pilot4yahms

    Yamaha YZ450F (2008)

    0 comments

    fastest bike I've ever rode
  4. 500bigbore

    500 EXC bars

    What aftermarket bars would be the closest thing to stock for 2014 500 exc?
  5. TYYYYLER

    Grips?

    Never purchased grips before, what's good?
  6. RevDown56

    Suzuki RMZ450 (2014)

    0 comments

    Super kick ass bike! Has rad power and super sweet steering!!!
  7. iRideYellowOnly

    Suzuki RMZ250 (2004)

    0 comments

    Plenty of power and fun to ride. Only flaw is the weak aluminum engine case, my chain came off and raped around the front sprocket massing pinning my case saver against to clutch busting the case. But no loss of compression or oil leak. Overall I'm happy with mu Suzuki.
  8. Dunny50

    Yamaha YZ450F (2015)

    0 comments

    One of the best bike I've ridden
  9. bc44

    Kawasaki KX250F (2012)

    0 comments

    This is my 2012 KX250f.. Factory connection suspension, Yoshi carbon fiber full exhaust. Too much list. This bike is a real monster.
  10. I see it posted time and time again to our discussion forums about how to make a bike fit both shorter and taller riders alike. So, I figured I'd see if I couldn't condense the discussion here. Areas to consider in no particular order: Seats The aftermarket offers complete seats that are both shorter (-1/2") and taller (3/4-1"+) than stock. Both are affordable and bolt in in minutes. Another route for shorter riders is to cut down your stock seat foam. Mark on the seat with a Sharpie pen the material you need to remove, make your cuts with an electric knife and ideally, fine tune the seating surface with an air grinder and medium grit sanding disc. But, don't cut too much off, otherwise you'll be sitting on the top of the bike's frame (not comfy). This is why complete, bolt on shorter seats are a better choice, as the density of the foam has been adjusted accordingly. Foot Pegs Some foot pegs incorporate mounting bracket collars that allow the peg to be mounted either up and forward or down and backwards. Most stock foot pegs leave a bit to be desired in my opinion, so not only can adjustable foot pegs better your riding position, most are substantially wider than stock, offering the rider added comfort and control. Suspension (shorter riders) There are a couple of options here. The first are lowering links. These aftermarket units replace some or your complete suspension linkage and can drop the rear of the bike as little as 3/4" to over 2". Most are bolt, so they are easily removed should you grow or sell the bike to a taller rider. You can also slide the fork legs up in the bike's triple clamps when adding a lowering link. How far? I'd recommend consulting with the lowering link manufacturer to see what is working best for their customers. You can also have your suspension professionally lowered. I've had this done to a bike in the past and it can be done without hurting suspension action. While the bike I had lowered spent most of its time off-road, I did play on the MX track and the bottoming resistance was excellent. I suppose it just depends upon the skills of the suspension tech you choose. I used John Curea of MX-Tech East Coast Suspension. Handlebars and Mounts Handlebars come in all sorts of bends. Bends refer to key measurements used for comparing the different handlebar choices. These measurements are width, height, rise, clamp area and and sweep: Generally speaking, taller riders will want bars with more height and less sweep (aka pullback) and short riders will want the opposite. The best way to select a new handlebar is to first record the key measurements of your existing handlebars to establish a baseline. Then, sit on your bike and pull your hands in the position that feels most comfortable to you, noting their position in relation to your existing handlebars. Selecting bars isn't an exact science, so don't worry if new handlebars feel a little strange at first. With a little seat time, you'll get used to them. If you're selecting handlebars to mount in your existing bar clamps, the key measurements of the handlebars is all you need to consider ergonomically. However, if for example, you're also changing the bar size from a stock 7/8" a 1 1/8" (aka fatbar), you'll also need to factor in any additional difference in height the new handlebar mounts may add. A popular choice are 7/8" to 1 1/8" bar mounts/adaptors/risers. Most are going to add an 3/4" in height, so you need to consider the additional height of both the new handlebars and mounts to arrive at the total new height. Also, some handlebar bar mounts/adaptors/risers are offset, meaning that the handlebar does not mount dead center in the mount. A typical offset is 5mm. And some of these bar mounts can be run in the forward position (+5) and lipped around towards the rider (-5). So this offset must be factor in with the sweep (pullback) of your new handlebars to arrive to the final sweep position. Lastly, there are also triple clamps (top clamps) that allow the bar mounts to be moved farther or close to the rider. Some use sets of holes (E.g KTM OEM) and others use v-shaped, horizontal channels allowing for even more fine tuning of the fore and aft position of the handlebars relative to the rider. Clutch and Brake Levers Short and tall riders may also have proportionately small and large hands. Usually a complain more from riders with small hands are clutch and brake levers where the throw is too long, making it difficult to easily use these critical controls. Some bikes come stock with levers that have adjustable through, but for those that don't, the aftermarket often has you covered. If not, forged (not cast) levers can be bent to suit the reach of the rider's hand easily enough. Shift Levers Tall rider + big feet = tough time shifting. Once again, the aftermarket has these riders covered with extended shift levers that allow the rider to get their boot under the lever. Some levers are similar the stock, but an inch longer. Others are a bit more sophisticated with replaceable shift lever heads in -10, 0 (stock), +10 and +15mm. View attachment: handlebarguide3.gif
  11. alleycatdad

    Easy Grip Cutter

    If you run barkbusters of one sort or another and need to cut out the end of the grips, go spend $1.99 on a 12" length of 3/4 inch copper pipe. Slide one grip on each end, stand the pipe up on a block of wood, and smack it good a couple of times on the upper end with a mallet. You'll get exactly what you need cut out of the ends; because the pipe is slightly smaller than your bars, the grips whould come on and off easily--use a little water to get them on if you need to.
  12. 2 reviews

    Color: Green, Yellow, Red, Blue, Black, Gray, Purple Soft TPR compoundFull length waffle pattern3 safety wire groovesThrottle recess notch to fit competition type throttles securelyFor 7/8in. bars. 4-1/2in. overall length 1-5/32 O.D.
  13. 3 reviews

    Waffle pattern in finger area for traction, diamond pattern on palm side to reduce blisters 7/8in. ID for all ATVs with thumb throttle For ATV, watercraft and mountain bikes Small flange design will not interfere with controls Sold in pairs
  14. ThumperTalk

    ProTaper 4.3 Bar Mount

    1 review

    4-in-1 solid bar mount system CNC machined 6061 aluminum for added strength and durability All mounting hardware included
  15. 1 review

    Looking to relieve your hunger for less blisters?? Well get yourself a set of the all new Novik grip donuts that are sure to make your buddies smile. Currently available in standard thickness.
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