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Found 10 results

  1. Hey guys, just asking if I can put a earlier z400 head on a later z400. My friend has a 2013 that needs a head but he wants only 600 for it.......
  2. Hey I have 2004 yamaha wr 450. It recently had head refurbishment and put back together ran for maybe half an hr and whilst doing shims noticed centre inlet cam journel wearing and scoring. Also no valve clearance at all on centre valve only. I was wondering could the cap be too tight and causing it as all other journels are perfect, no wear. could there be anything else that may cause just the one journel to wear? Any help would be appreciated as I've spent enough already lol. Also it doesn't have much compression in the kick starter but pressure test came up with 60 psi. Also almost impossible to start but thinking that's because of valve clearances they were all over the shop. Cheers
  3. Hi, guys so I did a complete rebuild on my cr 125, 2002 and after approximately one hour of running it blew up due to detonation. I just wanted to know your thoughts on why this actually happened. The cylinder had already a cast iron sleeve so I just decided to overbore it to accommodate a 55.5mm piston, had cylinder head re surfaced so that previous detonation marks would disappear maintaining the stock compression. Now I think the issue occured when I ordered the new piston the head gasket included was too small in the sense that there is almost a 2mm difference between it's diameter and the cavity in the cylinder head. Any help would be appreciated cheers. I'll leave some photos below.
  4. 2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.
  5. Hi all, I just have a quick question. There is a weep hole in the head for water. Mine has coolant leaking from it when it’s warmed up. There doesn’t appear to be any water in the oil, so I was wondering what your thoughts are on possible causes... thanks in advance
  6. Hi, I have removed the head from my lifan 125cc engine, I need to know what size head gasket in mm I need, ex: 52.4, 54, etc , thanks I can't seem to find anything telling me what size I need
  7. I was reinstalling intake cam shaft and accidentally dropped locating washer down crankcase. (Timing chain side). I don't want to remove the head to retrieve it unless I absolutely have to. Only option I can think of is using a telescopic magnet to go fishing. Anyone have any ideas or similar experiences?
  8. Hey guys, so after pulling my engine apart to install a 434 BB kit I noticed that my valves are shot. Instinctively I lapped the valves before reading up on the fact that you should absolutely not lap the stock valves. Silly me. Anyway, I have some new Ferrera SS valves on the way but I have a question about the install. Will I need to have the seats cut by a shop to properly fit the new valves? I'm under the impression that due to the new valves being stainless, I can lap them without ruining anything. Will this be enough, or should I give the head and valves to a shop to have it properly cut? It's my first time installing new valves so I'm a bit lost and keep finding contradictory information. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Cheers
  9. *All that was before* So the story goes like this, about a year ago I bought a 2016 KTM 300 xc and since last summer I haven't had much time to ride, I have put maybe 10 hours on it. I listed it for sale and you know it was in rough shape cosmetically from the last owner who probably never power washed it and it had dirt in many crevices and the hours were unknown so even listed at 4000$ I wasn't really getting many serious offers. The financially responsible side of me is telling me "sell this liability of a bike that you barely have time to ride" so I'm like ok but I'm going to do some general maintenance like wheel bearings, a new piston and just give it a thorough cleaning so I have better leverage when a potential buyer shows up. Well its never so simple with me, since buying my KTM I've bought a zx6r and now I have a custom chopper both of which were supposed to take the place of the KTM but for example, first nice day of this year I pull it out of the garage, prime the fuel and kick it over. Suddenly the sweet smell of Castor and the ring ding ding of a 2 stroke starts to turn some gears in my mind and Im like "ok zx6r, I change my mind, you're second". Anyways, just a week ago when I decided to freshen the bike up a little bit scrolling through Rocky mountain some how I end up with a cart totalling... Let's just say a little more than just a piston and wheel bearings. Since ordering these things the desire to ride a harescramble or two has also flourished in the back of my mind. But now to what really less me to make this post. I ordered an rk-tek head and I received it with a 13.4 insert, it had burrs around the bolt holes on the inside of the head which I cleaned up but the insert still doesn't sit completely flush with the head, the inside of the squish band also has burrs which don't seem to be a part of the design but some incomplete machining, do I try to remove them? The outside also has some edges that seem to fall a little short when setting a part offset compared to a different op but that's fine since it is on the outside of the insert. Will this head lean our my bike and require rejetting? This post is just a summary of some of the thoughts I've been having for anybody that cares to expand or add to them. A couple other miscellaneous questions concerning this build would be, What are some other "must have" mods for these 300s in terms of single track performance and just exceptional bling factor? I already order the bulletproof radiator guards and I'm looking at the rotor guards as well. Does anybody have input about the KTM/FMF powerparts exhaust system compared to a fmf fatty and silencer? Is there any extra performance to be had with the just the FMF system, I like a equal power band that pulls all the way through, maybe just a tiny bit more lower-mid hit but I don't want to compromise the top. Thanks for reading anybody that has gotten this far and I might post an update of complete thoughts of the rk Tek head once the rest of my parts arrive and I get to go on a ride. God bless all those that receive
  10. So I have a 2000 XR 100r - after what can only be described as a spectacular crash I need a replacement cylinder head. 2000 heads seem to be hard to come by. What other year or displacement heads fit on a 2000 xr100r? Thanks!
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