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Showing results for tags 'HydraulicClutches'.
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Hey all, I recently had a 440 kit installed in my "00XR400 and with the heavy duty clutch springs that were part of the kit, the clutch work was a little tougher than I like. So I bought a Hebo hydraulic universal clutch kit from my buddy Jim Cook at Smackover Motorsports. The reviews of it I'd read said the pull was slightly easier and longer than the Magura and quality was as good or better. Thing is, after looking around all over the web, I could find no help or suggestions on where to mount the slave cylinder on an XR. These are 3 links I used to help me, tho none of them work specifically with the XR. http://www.john-stichnoth.com/Hebo.html http://dirtrider.net/drn_tested/erider/hydrualic_clutch.html /forum/showthread.php?t=2151 So after spending a few days experimenting with different potential mounting points, keeping in mind I need to take into consideration the amount of heat the unit will see and keep it accessable yet somewhat protected, I put it on the left side of the forward main frame downtube. I fashioned a bracket that would use the left mounting point for the fuel tank. Having an IMS 4 gal tank made options scarce. Maybe if anyone else wants to do this project on an XR, between the links provided and what I'll add, it will be a little easier. I used the long cable and sheath provided in the kit, without cutting/altering it's length. And the stock style cable keeper/adjuster that uses the stock bracket mounted to the right case cover. The end of the cable is bare so you use the cable clamp provided in the kit that fits the XRs throw lever. Here's a picture of the slave cylinder mount. I used a temporary spacer setup the same thickness as the fueltank mount for initial fitting of the cylinder. I wrapped the cylinder in the same heat wrap I used on the header to help shield it from any heat. I used plastic spiral wrap on the braided line to add some abrasion and heat resistance to it. Here's final installation pictures. [ My decomp lever would no longer fit on the handlebars, so for now, until I figure out something better, I mounted it to the bark buster. Here's a tip I discovered. The bleeder nipple/fitting bolt threads are a sloppy fit. When trying to bleed the system with my vacuum bleed tool, air/vacuum escapes around the threads of the nipple and prevents the tool from working properly. I had to remove the nipple and wrap its threads with teflon tape. The system bled fine after that. Getting the amount of lever pull I needed was tricky and took me awhile to figure out. Took the bike for a spin up and down the street to check it and Man is this thing sweet! I bet it cut lever pull difficulty by 50% or more. The braided line is longer than I needed for this install and figuring out a way to route the excess and get the end clocked in the orientation I needed it was a pain. Later I might have it shortend. Hope this might help someone else that is contemplating this mod. Trailryder42
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I've seen someone on here (can't remember) who runs a hydraulic clutch kit on their Yamaha. Does anyone know if this can be used with a Rekluse?
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I've had this bike for two months now. With a healing knee and a few feet of snow outside, I haven't been able to ride it yet. What I know so far is that the Enduro Engineering debris deflectors, radiator braces and clutch cylinder guard install really well. Putting around the block, this thing has some nice POP considering my last bike was a 250F. On the down side, engine vibrations seem to eminate quite a bit through the handlebars and foot pegs; and the KTM Powerparts aluminum skid plate is completely bogus! The whole thing is a pain in the ass to install and the mounting hooks don't even fit (skid plate is currently being held on by 2/3 of the hardware), I see myself getting a better one in the future. Aside from that, beautiful bike! -
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i am want to find out the best option to go. i get really bad arm pump in my left arm and am considering the two options of a magura hydraulic clutch or the auto rekluse. does the magura reduce clutch pull and make it similar to a ktm? i know what the rekluse does but would the core manual be the better option? any help would be great!!!
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My clutch is pretty stiff on my bike, but the line and clutch plates and springs seem to be ok.. Is there anyway I can make it easier to pull? I filed down the fins on my clutch basket so they're perfectly smooth and don't hang up on it at all but I want to know if there is anything else I can do? It's a 2002 cr 125 btw
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Anyone mounted the apparently new 2012+ Mugura Hydraulic Clutch lever assembly?
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This bike is a rocket ship! The only issue I've had was that it came from the factory so corked up. Also, the cost of maintenance and upgrades are a tad on the pricey side but that's all four strokes now days. After setting it up to your liking, I can't imagine you not riding this machine with smile on your face. -
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Can anyone give me their experience racing with an EXP 2.0 or 3.0 (the cheaper stock internals) as opposed to the core unit? I have a 2011 yz250f and I am a B level rider racing an enduro series this summer. I could probably swing for the $400 deal but $900 for the core is probably not happening. I was just looking for some race proven experience (assuming I ride in the right gear and not lazy) or not so proven experiences.
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My previous bike was a 2016 KTM 250 XC-W. The 250cc two stroke just works for me, so it is no surprise that the 2017 model fits me like a glove. 6 hours done and the following things stand out: The motor - smooth and with almost no vibrations. It also needs less clutch work than the 2017 model and seems less prone to stalling. The size - the bike feels much smaller and compact than the previous model. I'm 5'8" and feel much more able to boss the bike around. The handling - the bike reacts very well to steering inputs and remains planted at speed and whilst going slowly The components - the clutch is light. The tires are good. The plastics are tough. The saddle is comfy. And the downsides: Suspension is soft. I'm 77kg (170lbs) without gear and I'll probably need the next stiffer springs The carb is unknown amoungst KTM owners and is not as easy to set up as the old Keihin. The reeds don't seal 100%. I sanded the cage and got the reeds to seal a bit better. Makes a big difference. So far I a really liking this bike. Some suspension work, maybe a Lectron carb and some vForce4 reeds and it'll be perfect -
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recently bought a 2010 suzuki rmz 250 its been a good bike. The guy before me said he just had the top end done along with the clutch plates. I rode it for a few hours and started hearing a grinding noise so i stopped, when i got home i took off the clutch cover and whoever put the clutch springs in didnt torque them properly because they loosened and started rubbing against the clutch cover. The oil filter was absolutely caked how should i go about flushing all those metal shavings out