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Showing results for tags 'HydraulicClutches'.
Found 40 results
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Awesome bike -
Can anyone give me their experience racing with an EXP 2.0 or 3.0 (the cheaper stock internals) as opposed to the core unit? I have a 2011 yz250f and I am a B level rider racing an enduro series this summer. I could probably swing for the $400 deal but $900 for the core is probably not happening. I was just looking for some race proven experience (assuming I ride in the right gear and not lazy) or not so proven experiences.
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This bike is a rocket ship! The only issue I've had was that it came from the factory so corked up. Also, the cost of maintenance and upgrades are a tad on the pricey side but that's all four strokes now days. After setting it up to your liking, I can't imagine you not riding this machine with smile on your face. -
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Great bike so far. -
I've seen someone on here (can't remember) who runs a hydraulic clutch kit on their Yamaha. Does anyone know if this can be used with a Rekluse?
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Hey all, I recently had a 440 kit installed in my "00XR400 and with the heavy duty clutch springs that were part of the kit, the clutch work was a little tougher than I like. So I bought a Hebo hydraulic universal clutch kit from my buddy Jim Cook at Smackover Motorsports. The reviews of it I'd read said the pull was slightly easier and longer than the Magura and quality was as good or better. Thing is, after looking around all over the web, I could find no help or suggestions on where to mount the slave cylinder on an XR. These are 3 links I used to help me, tho none of them work specifically with the XR. http://www.john-stichnoth.com/Hebo.html http://dirtrider.net/drn_tested/erider/hydrualic_clutch.html http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2151 So after spending a few days experimenting with different potential mounting points, keeping in mind I need to take into consideration the amount of heat the unit will see and keep it accessable yet somewhat protected, I put it on the left side of the forward main frame downtube. I fashioned a bracket that would use the left mounting point for the fuel tank. Having an IMS 4 gal tank made options scarce. Maybe if anyone else wants to do this project on an XR, between the links provided and what I'll add, it will be a little easier. I used the long cable and sheath provided in the kit, without cutting/altering it's length. And the stock style cable keeper/adjuster that uses the stock bracket mounted to the right case cover. The end of the cable is bare so you use the cable clamp provided in the kit that fits the XRs throw lever. Here's a picture of the slave cylinder mount. I used a temporary spacer setup the same thickness as the fueltank mount for initial fitting of the cylinder. I wrapped the cylinder in the same heat wrap I used on the header to help shield it from any heat. I used plastic spiral wrap on the braided line to add some abrasion and heat resistance to it. Here's final installation pictures. [ My decomp lever would no longer fit on the handlebars, so for now, until I figure out something better, I mounted it to the bark buster. Here's a tip I discovered. The bleeder nipple/fitting bolt threads are a sloppy fit. When trying to bleed the system with my vacuum bleed tool, air/vacuum escapes around the threads of the nipple and prevents the tool from working properly. I had to remove the nipple and wrap its threads with teflon tape. The system bled fine after that. Getting the amount of lever pull I needed was tricky and took me awhile to figure out. Took the bike for a spin up and down the street to check it and Man is this thing sweet! I bet it cut lever pull difficulty by 50% or more. The braided line is longer than I needed for this install and figuring out a way to route the excess and get the end clocked in the orientation I needed it was a pain. Later I might have it shortend. Hope this might help someone else that is contemplating this mod. Trailryder42
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Great bike, owned it for almost a year now, still gets mid 50 mpg no matter how I ride it. KLX Needle, main and pilot jets swapped out for current mods/altitude. Smile every time I ride it, even if I drop it, it was a good day on "Mia" :) -
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My old gal, I will take her to my grave so I have no problems spending time and money on her. -
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I've had the bike for four years now and I love it. The engine is a masterpiece. There are times when I wish that I had an 06 or newer because of the weight and suspension, but it still performs better than a lot of other bikes I've ridden -
recently bought a 2010 suzuki rmz 250 its been a good bike. The guy before me said he just had the top end done along with the clutch plates. I rode it for a few hours and started hearing a grinding noise so i stopped, when i got home i took off the clutch cover and whoever put the clutch springs in didnt torque them properly because they loosened and started rubbing against the clutch cover. The oil filter was absolutely caked how should i go about flushing all those metal shavings out
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My previous bike was a 2016 KTM 250 XC-W. The 250cc two stroke just works for me, so it is no surprise that the 2017 model fits me like a glove. 6 hours done and the following things stand out: The motor - smooth and with almost no vibrations. It also needs less clutch work than the 2017 model and seems less prone to stalling. The size - the bike feels much smaller and compact than the previous model. I'm 5'8" and feel much more able to boss the bike around. The handling - the bike reacts very well to steering inputs and remains planted at speed and whilst going slowly The components - the clutch is light. The tires are good. The plastics are tough. The saddle is comfy. And the downsides: Suspension is soft. I'm 77kg (170lbs) without gear and I'll probably need the next stiffer springs The carb is unknown amoungst KTM owners and is not as easy to set up as the old Keihin. The reeds don't seal 100%. I sanded the cage and got the reeds to seal a bit better. Makes a big difference. So far I a really liking this bike. Some suspension work, maybe a Lectron carb and some vForce4 reeds and it'll be perfect -
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Love this bike -
So, I'm going to be ditching my rekluse, as it's just....not for me. My question is how is the magura does on bikes that come stock as a CABLE ACTUATED bike. Does the magura take it from the slightly difficult 2 finger pull to a 1 finger pull like some claim? Also, how hard is the setup? And what all do I need to buy if I bought this "kit"? http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/981/-/31776/Magura-Hydraulic-Clutch?0&v=1618&_=1393879693031 The reason I'm looking at the magura is I like to use the clutch, whether it be revving it up more or lugging it down more, I like to use it, but with the rekluse some of that control was lost and the pull got much harder. So i'm looking for a softer pull, with out the control loss of the rekluse. Just wondering if this is the right/best route? Thanks for the help guys!
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Went from CRF250 4T to RM250 2T...best decision ever made! -
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I think this motorcycle is awesome. Of course, I pretty much think all motorcycles are awesome. -
Have a 02 yz250f with stock clutch kit. It's way to stiff for my liking and adjustments aren't helping much. The lever is also broken at the end, which I like because it is perfect length for two fingers, but I'm definitely replacing it. I'm thinking about installing a hydraulic kit. Of course I've heard Magura's are the best around, worth the money?... Any other suggestions
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I've noticed while watching pro arenacross, that the top riders are adjusting their clutch basically every lap. I know clutches heat up during the race, and expand, and need to be adjusted to compensate. I've noticed my clutch drags by the end of a moto, but I'm not really willing to attempt to adjust it mid race. My question is, why do pros very seldom install hydraulic clutches? It wouldn't need to be adjusted during a race, you think that would be worth it alone. Smoother, lighter clutch pull is obviously another advantage. It seems KTM riders, love their hydraulic clutches. For the $250 it costs, it seems like a good, cheap mod for a serious motocrosser. I ride a yz125 and was thinking about going hydraulic. Not for the light clutch pull (mind you it would be like butter on a 125) but just for the smooth, consistent feel of hydraulics. I've driven hydraulic and cable clutched cars, and there's a reason no one makes cable clutches anymore. So what's the catch? There must be a drawback that keeps so many riders from going hydraulic?
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Awesome dirt bike that happens to be street legal. -
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SOLD I've owned this 2006 YZ450 since 2011. It was bone stock when I purchased it and over the years have added a large list of parts mainly geared towards Enduro racing and harescrambles. The bike has been absolutely great to me, any issues have just been normal ware and tare. -
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06 YZ250 with Carbon fiber gas tank, CF chain guide, CF silencer and pipe guard. Stock powerplant and carb, stock valving in suspension. 2010 YZ450F swingarm, linkage, rear wheel, axle and brake carrier. 2010 Honda CRF450 front brake. Miscellaneous titanium nuts and bolts and Ti rear axle. Applied Racing 22 offset triple clamps. Last weighed in at 211.5 lbs with no gas.
