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Found 10 results

  1. I purchased a used 2009 CRF450R, in Sept. of 2017, which was used for flat track, as I am using it, also. I have been inspecting and freshening the engine this winter, and as I was putting the bottom end back together I discovered that the Gearshift Drum installed appears to be from a 2013-2016 CRF450R; the left end of the Gearshift Drum is flat with a small hole in the center, it does not have the raised collar with the notch in it, and the Gearshift Drum's left end, which the 2009 Gearshift Drum has, which accepts/engages the Pin on the Gear Position Switch's rod. I did check continuity as described in the Service Manual, but did not note exactly, what position the Switch's Pin was inn before I began moving it and noticing continuity and open. I recall that it tested as described in the Service Manual; 1st and Neutral = ground-light green/red, 2nd = ground-gray. Now, my thinking was ... "the Gearshift Drum has no way to 'actuate' the Gear Position Switch, as it's end is flat/flush, no groove/notch. .. So, the Switch is basically, 'open circuit', not sending anything to the ECM. The switch is now, basically, a 'plug'." .. "I can eliminate the wires from the Gear Position Switch to the Main Wire Harness; one less set of wires to deal with." ... So, I cut the wires off of the Gear Position Switch, Dremel, cut off the switch's rod/pin and applied a thin coat of Yamabond to the Switch's inside, face. Reading this 6 year old, post: This got me to wondering should I, once again, have left well enough alone. Given the fact that I did not make note of the position of the switch's rod/pin when I removed it, if either of the wires are not connected to the harness/ECM, is this going to affect Fuel / Ignition / Starting? .. Given the fact the Gearshift Drum can not actuate/engage the Gear Position Switch, I would think I would not want the switch's position to be Permanently/Constantly set in either of the 1st-Neutral or the 2nd gear positions. So, unplugging it, [or even, eliminating the wires from the switch as I did], should be like the switch's position being in 3rd-5th gear. ... Hoping it will not make it more difficult to Kick Start or affect idle or performance. ... I mean, I wouldn't want any 'signal' to the ECM that the transmission is constantly, in 1st, Neutral or 2nd.
  2. HI guys, last post recieved great help so hoping the same here, basically I think I’m experiencing some timing issues on my 02 rm125. The timing marks on the magneto were slightly out by like a degree or less, in favour of an earlier spark, worried that I was gunna fry the piston, I moved the timing marks by a degree in favour of a later spark just for piece of mind that I wasn’t harming my freshly rebuilt engine, since doing this o think I can hear the bike ‘pinging’ when riding at a steady speed, and has developed a ticking noise from the top end, it runs okay maybe a little splutter before the valve opens and possibly down on power a little but I ride a sports bike so maybe it’s just not that fast compared, but once it’s cleared out it sings through the gears as it should, can anyone help? Will post a picture of current position on magneto, also I haven’t proper tool for measuring tdc but by feel on the fly wheel this is pretty much where it’s at, that can’t be right considering the crank turns anti clockwise?
  3. Hi I see there's a lot of chat about programmable ignitions for cr 250s.I wanted to use the vortex 10 programmable ignition but because I've got a 2002 I had a problem they don't make one for that year.The reason is the electronic power valves the earlyer models had internal.so this is how I solved the problem I got in touch with viper racing in the UK they specialize in cr s and what they do is amazing.They take the power valves out and put inserts in now I no what your thinking there goes the bottom power. Wrong if anything I've got more power . Sorry forgot to say this engine is on a superkart. They told me they could not put inserts in to the 2002 but they could on the 2005 .so long story short I don't have power valves and run a vortex 10 programmable ignition.Thats how you get around the problem. Hope this helps ? .
  4. This is sort of out of the blue, but what are the advantages of the different coils out there in the world? You see the single bolt mount style like on a mid 80s Cr and countless chinese offerings, and then you see the larger two bolt style. I can understand the packaging advantages of the smaller single bolt stuff, but it would seem there are advantages to the larger "conventional" style. Why else would manufacturers use a heavier and more expensive coil on most bikes. I have some theories, but someone probably has actual answers. What got me thinking about this is a 74 cr125 ignition I'm working on. It currently has the single bolt coil. Just curious if there would be anything gained by swapping back to an older style 2 bolt setup
  5. Hi all, Back after a hiatus from supermotos after I sold my KTM 625SMC. Now I've got a 701SM (2016) and ... of course, fuel injection, no more carbs! Couple of questions I hope someone can help with - the bike already had a few mods: Akrapovic slip on, with EVO Airbox mod. power commander V ABS dongle mod Those are all that's really relevant for this post. Essentially the previous owner told me that 0 was the bad quality fuel map, 1 was sport map and 2 onwards were standard maps. Doing a little digging, it turned out this wasn't quite correct. 1 is the soft map, 2 is the sport map and 3 onwards are standard as far as I've found. 0 is of course the bad fuel map only for dire situations on low octane. My question is, will the PCV change these maps at all? I don't know where to control the PCV maps 'on the fly' - seems this requires a separate module? Other than this I think I have it right that the PCV control injection, whereas the underseat switch controls ignition timing. This would make sense given that on low octane, preventing detonation is usually Achieved by regarding ignition. Can anyone correct me or give any of their findings? Thanks Wilbert
  6. This guy has done about every modification to his bike including a Pumper carb, bore kit, new exhaust and air filter yet he says the new ignition iis the "most powerful mod ever" Have you heard of replacing the entire ignition system to a modified one? Here is what he says about it. More info in the link below. "Just recently I have found one of the MOST POWERFUL mods I have ever done! This is a new mod that was completely unheard to me! I am amazed that everyone I mention it to hasn't heard of it! This one single MOD costs $350 TOTAL. And makes the 400 feel like it's on nitrous! In other words: the bike will wind up so fast it will feel like the clutch is slipping! This mod is the use of an ENTIRELY NEW IGNITION designed by White Brothers. This is AN ENTIRE IGNITION system; NOT SOME STUPID BOX THAT JUST GIVES IT MORE TOP END!!!!! This is an entire ignition system with a faster advance curve. The entire timing curve is more advance throughout the whole poweband. Since the XR is a green sticker legal bike it's timing is drastically retarded making it's emission much lower AT THE EXPENSE OF HORSEPOWER and TORQUE!!!! This is THE MOST POWERFUL ENGINE MOD YOU CAN DO TO YOUR 400 (even if you don;'t have the Mikuni 36 Pumper on it!). They guy who turned me on to this mod works at ALL SPORTS HONDA BMW in Grand Junction Colorado. His name is Tony and is one of the sharpest guys I know on all the latest aftermarket tips and tricks for XR's. This complete ignition systems normally sell for $330 plus shipping (and or sales tax). However, I got mine for only $300 delivered and you can too. You can call Tony at 1-970-243-7730 for details. Mention my name and get it for $300 delivered. P.S. Feel free to call me for more details about this mod. I also learned some more neat things in testing even more exhaust systems (i.e. FMF PowerBomb Header etc.) P.P.S. Recently purchased a 2000 650R from Scott Summers. However, the paperwork is a little lost right now so I have been unable to ride it to the dirt as in my state they'll impound it without insurance. Hope to hear from ya! Jay Peters " http://www.justxr.com/info/xr4report4.html What are your thoughts on this ignition modification?
  7. My 97 yz 250 has a 96 top end on it and I can't for the life of me get it to run right. It runs just like if the choke is on. It has great power in the low end but as soon as I get to mid range and up to top end speed, it bogs down and it won't rev out like it should. Every once in a while It will speed up and run decent but It seems like It has a hard time transitioning from mid range to full speed. It also won't idle. The odd thing is, is that the very first time I put it all together and ran it, it idled perfect and ran amazing durring the 5 minute test ride that I took it on, the next day when I tried to ride, it was instantly giving me this problem. I was running 32:1 mix in it but it kept fouling the plug so just for testing purposes I ran 40:1 in it, it still bogs but now at least it won't foul the plug. By the way, it's a brand new plug so that should have nothing to do with it. So far what I have done is changed the crank seals, I've gone through the carb(168 main jet i believe) and everything else checks out there, choke is working as it should, it has brand new reeds in it, looked over the stator, all electrical connectors, ground wires, nothing looks out of place ignition wise, replaced some worn power valve linkage and I've ran the bike with the power valve linkage cover off to verify that the power valve is working correctly. It also has plenty of compression. Idk if it's ignition, fuel, or a porting issue with the different year model cylinder but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Can anyone confirm that this is true regarding cam timing:
  9. Hi, has anyone tried using a aftermarket ignition coil? Looking at ebay there is one that has a logo that says venom, and there is a ignition coil from caltric. Those are the only ones that are not shipped from China. The reviews on the venom coil says it's working properly, but I don't like that I can't find a website for them. You guys think it's safe to give it a try, or should I rather get secondhand oem? If so, does anyone know the difference between the "129700 4740" and the "129700 4530"?
  10. Hello everyone, I have a 1993 YZ 125 and I am having some problems with it. Bike runs good, except that it won't kick start and it won't idle at low RPM, but it will bump start and I idle when I keep it revved up. It is not jetting as my jets are clean. I've concluded that it has come down two week Spark. When I check for Spark by grounding the spark plug and kicking it over, it only Sparks when I kick really hard, and even that spark is not great. It has a brand new top and bottom end, including crank bearings and seals. It was running the same as it is now before it was rebuilt. I replace the ignition coil, spark plug, and kill switch. I think that it's either the stator or the flywheel, most likely the stator, but I would like some advice before I would buy another part because they're pricey. Thanks for your help in advance.
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