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Showing results for tags 'JdJetting'.
Found 139 results
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I've had 3 of these and I can't seem to live without one :) -
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I use this bike for woods riding. This is the first bike I ever bought, and I was told it was used as a spare bike that didn't get ridden very much. I think he wasn't being truthful lol it rode great at first, brought a buddy that has ridden most of his life to check it out and it was in really great shape for the year. Spring of 2016 I put 30+ hours on it and did a lot of upgrades in between. I learned a lot about jetting, and worked really hard getting it all dialed in for peak performance. Ended up tearing the top end apart because I heard some noise that made me concerned. Found crank bearings were worn, con rod bearing had really bad side to side play, piston didn't look too bad but still wanted to replace, luckily cylinder was in good shape. I did a complete top and bottom rebuild with OEM parts. Kinda expensive but $800-$900 later-a lot of time, patience, and cleaning-and I have basically a new engine and all the tools to rebuild one again. Rebuilt carb, repacked silencer, new chain and sprockets, all at the same time. Around 12 hours since rebuild and it's running very strong, great power, and so much fun to ride. Still have a little carb work to do, need to go up a size or two on the pilot jet. Overall though the bike is a blast, people told me it was too much to start with but honestly I think it was perfect to start with, I'm certainly not a greatly skilled rider but it taught me a lot, and it made me progress a lot and quickly. -
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Great entry supermoto without the hassle of buying and converting. ton of fun to blast around town on or offroad on fire roads/single track. Not the fastest or slowest sm, but it gets the job done reliably. Mods definitely waken this bike up. Cant go wrong with this as a beginning supermoto bike. -
The instructions call for blue needle on 3rd clip but i see a lot of people starting off on 4th clip. Just wondering what i should do. I m doing the 3x3 tonight and stating on the jetting. bike has a slip on yoshi pipe. I was gonna stay with the 155 mj unless told otherwise I live in sacramento, ca so almost sea level and the temp is anywhere from 40 to 80 degrees right now.
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Hello All, I am a new rider and a new member of the forum. I recently acquired a used 2014 DRZ400SM with 5K miles. I purchased the bike with a full FMF Powercore 4 Pipe and Power Bomb Header with no 3X3 airbox modification performed. The bike currently resides in the Bay Area (Northern California) and is ridden between 0 and 1500' elevation. Temperatures have been between 60-80 F with little to no humidity. I rode the bike briefly as is and I quickly noticed it was running lean. There was some noticeable popping on deceleration and slight bogging under load. After riding I performed the 3X3 airbox mod on the bike knowing I wouldn't ride it again until my JD Jet Kit had arrived which I ordered the same night from Thumper Talk along with some OEM parts to replace while changing the oil and an extended fuel screw. I rode the bike with the FMF full pipe and header, 3X3 mod, and stock jetting around the block and noticed it was running even leaner with more bogging and popping (as expected). I parked the bike until the jet kit arrived. I installed the JD Jet Kit using instructions found on this forum and YouTube and used the kit specifications that I found to be the consensus for my elevation, temperature, and modifications. They are as follows: 160 Main Jet 25 Pilot Jet Blue Needle on Clip #3 Extended Fuel Screw set at 2.75 turns (played with this setting to eliminate some popping on deceleration) -The Fuel Screw can be turned in 1 turn before sputtering at idle The result was a better running bike with some slight bogging and/or flat spots in the middle and high rpm ranges. I have a hard time describing how it actually feels but the bike will not come close to lifting the front wheel in 1st or 2nd gear as most people claim the bike will do with my modifications. I suspected a vacuum leak or another problem unrelated to the carb and performed the following maintenance after re-jetting to try again: -Valve inspection - all valves within spec (Exhaust at .2 and .23 mm so will need to check these again in 2K miles) -Thumper Talk MCCT -Oil changed with Redline 20W-50 -Loctite fix for stator and starter clutch bolts -Replaced NGK Stock Spec Plug (CR8E?) with NGK CR8EIX and gapped to spec There was no change after the above was completed so I decided to remove the spark arrestor/silencer insert from the pipe. The result was a louder bike with no noticeable performance change. The next and final step was to retrace my steps in the carb and clean each jet and reinstall the needle verifying the washer order and o-rings were properly seated. I did this and noticed no mistakes. All the jets were clean, the float moved freely, and the needle holder was seated correctly. All o-rings were present and the diaphragm looked to be intact and in good condition. I moved the clip on the needle to Clip #4 (Counting from the top - second to most rich setting) upon opening up the carb for the second time in hoping that the bike was running a bit lean. I took care to ensure that all the rubber boots were tightened securely and I tested for leaks with starter fluid. The exhaust is not leaking either (I checked with soap and water). After performing the above, the bike ran slightly better. It feels a bit peppier but has some low and mid range flat spots and does not have the ability to pull up the front wheel. This is all without the spark arrestor in the pipe. In a last effort to determine if the bike was running rich or lean, I removed the airbox cover and rode the bike. It felt slightly worse and made a lot more noise. I then tried taping one third of the hole I had made after the 3x3 mod and reinstalled the airbox cover. I thought I felt an ever so slight increase in power but nothing that resulted in a certain conclusion that the bike was still running lean. Before moving the clip on the blue needle to clip #5, I figured I would consult the experts and more experienced DRZ400 owners on Thumper Talk with the hope that I gain some additional knowledge that would help me troubleshoot this bike. In the next day, I plan to change the oil again to Amsoil 10W-40 Dirt Bike Synthetic because I am not impressed by my shifts and overall transmission feel with the Redline 20W-50 Synthetic. I also want to check again for any metal deposits in the oil. There was no metal on the magnetic drain plug after the first oil change. For reference, I have put about 700 miles on the bike during the process detailed above. It has been a blast to ride I just know there is more to be had with the Mikuni BSR36 carb when properly jetted based on information on this forum and videos on YouTube. Any and all help, advice, and thoughts are greatly appreciated. Regards, Justin
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Absolutely love my DRZ!! -
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My favorite bike -
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Decent bike with moderate power and sporty look, seems to have been built with a bit more emphasis toward off road then the dual sport bikes I have owned prior but with some personal preference type tweaks and some getting use to It shall suit my purpose. -
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Boss in the tight local woods, love the low end lugging power for the ugly stuff! -
Looking to Re-jetting my suzuki DR-Z400S and can't figure out what mod to use JD Jetting kit or Dynojet Stage 1. And would and have to do any changes to my bike
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I love it! -
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Great power band easy to cruise yet has the power when you need it, the only thing that I really dislike is the placement of the choke knob VERY hard to get to and this thing is very hard to start cold. -
Hey guys. So my JD jet kit just arrived in the mail and I'm very up in the air whether or not to do it myself. The only videos I can find are videos of drz400 s/sm. Mine is a 2001 kicker with stock carb (FCR). Stock exhaust, live at 6500 ft, could ride up to around 11,000ish ft. Is it a better idea to have a mechanic do the mod for me? Could i cause a lot of damage by screwing up the jetting if i were to do this myself? anything helps, thanks.
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Great bike so far only a few days of riding -
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All I can say is WOW -
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Review: Once I got it setup how I wanted it... it became the best bike I have owned. 6-speed, Fuel injected, 250lbs, 56.5 stock WHP(I have the dyno), full suspension (yes, it is identical to FE setup), hydraulic clutch, brembo brakes, and everything is made to be disassembled trackside. No complaints! People think that the range on it is bad. Most riders fill up every 100 miles and this can do that plus some on a tank. I am a little bit frustrated that there is no tripometer, There is an aftermarket switch you can get (speedo dependent.. http://www.ktm-parts.com/54814073000.html).. but i never did. Instead I bought a Trail Tech.. it is easy to setup and I got a great deal on a voyager. Trail Techs can connect right to the factory speedo sensor so that was easy and it will give you a tach too! I need to point out that everyone thinks there is a problem with parts availability.. wake up, its 2016 & we have the internet now. Here are some of the regular places I go to for parts: http://www.husabergshop.se/ (good KTM part number reference) http://www.ktm-parts.com/ (I get a lot of stuff here) http://www.gunnisonmotorsports.com/aboutus.htm http://slavensracing.com/ https://www.brpmoto.com/ http://www.enduroeng.com/ Maintenance: 1. Valve shims. You probably will have to shim the valves after the breakin.. after that, they have not moved.. 2. Oil Change frequency is no different than any other KTM/MXer. Everyone looking to go to this bike complains about oil change frequency... STOP TRYING TO COMMUTE on this thing. You easily can.. and sometimes I do... but I know that i will have to change the oil. This is not a daily commuter, it is a daily monster. There is a reason why honda civics go for 10k miles without an oil change.. they are commuter vehicles, that is their thing. If you want a commuter bike, buy a DRZ (I love my DRZs BTW). Also.. yes, motorex and KTM filters are expensive but you dont HAVE to use them. There are alternative filters however the alternate oil options that you SHOULD use are also expensive. Necessary/Recommended upgrades and Known issues: ***Dont buy a piggyback/parallel unit such as the dynojet/JD tuner/bazzaz.. I tried the JDJetting one and it was very disappointing. I still have it.. sitting in a box somewhere.. what a waste. Instead, just do the below... 1. US Model runs lean as hell stock.. .. remove the evap canister .. talk to Fritz Kadlec(the owner) and send him your ECU to flash with the competition map. This is night and day. 2. Get the timing/ignition map switch.. KTM/Berg factory is good.. or the TT Online one. Set it to 'wild' and you might as well forget about it. 3. Get a full pipe. The factory exhaust is very restrictive. I have FMF megabomb setup.. it is cheaper and has only a fraction of less gain than AK. 4. DNA Air Filter.. dont mess with the twin air and so on.. just get DNA, it is the best and is as easy to maintain as a K&N. (have to order from EU) 5. Everyone says the factory fuel pump is crap.. rumor always seems to be that it is dues to excessive heat. I am not sure I believe that. Regardless, I had a B$%^$ of a time with the pump. Bike would run awesome, then randomly die while riding. After power off/on, fuel pump doesn't prime. Replaced the pump with CACycleWorks & same thing. CA Cycleworks sent me another one for free (something about the heat index testing may not have been done on the one I received). No worries.. after getting it all back together. Similar problem. Long story short, I soldered the leads to the fuel pump on, never had an issue since. I dont know why it is good now.. just know that the bike vibrates pretty hard while under throttle. It has been almost 3 years without issue. 6. The bike is hot.. and runs hot. Use track coolant.. (watterwetter, engineice.. etc) Dont use normal fluids, it doesn't work as well. KTM makes a fan kit for it. I recommend it otherwise you will probably boil your radiator over (depending where you live). 7. Boiling over your radiator onto the road? See #7 and maybe get a motion pro or similar coolant catch canister. 8. Have some spare fasteners laying around. (I did mention this thing shakes, right?) 9. The seat is a wooden plank. There are some options from www.fishersaddlebags.com/ or seatconcepts.com/ but they are ugly as f#%@ 10. I did get a bigger rear sprocket because I just wanted more low end launch. I can still go 100 MPH easily and it pulls hard up hills through 5th now. -
Hello all! After some advice on how my bikes running and what it's doing, I'm struggling for advice from people Here's tonights conundrum... Bike spec- drz400sm k8 3x3 mod K&n Scorpion xflow header Yoshi r77 can with custom link pipe Hotcams stage 1 cams FCR39 slant body (with E cables) Flexi fuel jet 155 main 45 pilot NYCR needle (set to 3rd clip down from top) Adjustable pilot jet set to 100 (All other jets standard slant body) I think that's all of it! Soooooo tonight I got it all on the bike: set the flexijet to 2 turns out-wouldn't idle but would run on choke, choke off and would die Set the flexijet to 2.5 turns out- would Rev and idle but eventually the idle would weaken and cut out, wouldn't Rev without dieing. Set the flexi to 2.75 out- same as 2.5 but a little stronger idle would Rev better. Set the flexi to 3 turns out- better idle that didn't sound like it was missing, idled for 30-45 secs strong till it cut out by itself. Now this jetting is just from drz400uk.org as a good starting point but it doesn't seem right with the flexijet 3 turns out and it cutting out. Anyone have any recommendations on jetting? I've been told there are a few DRZ/Fcr masters lurking in these parts Any help is appreciated 8-)
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2000 DRZ 400e Big Bore + Stroker Kit Jetting
chris5359 posted a topic in Motorcycle Jetting & Fuel Injection
Hi, I have just recently installed a Cylinder Works 434 big bore kit and a Hot Rods +4mm stroker kit to my 2000 DRZ400e. I have the FCR 39 carb, A yoshimura exhaust, and a K&N air filter. I live in florida so the weather is about 75 degrees average and almost always humid. I recently purchased the JD jet kit and wanted to install it but im not sure which main jet or needle to try first. Can someone please reccomend a good starting setup and/or explain how to get my jetting correct? If it helps, the JD jet kit comes with, Main Jet (165, 162, 160, 155), Pilot Jet (45), Blue Needle (Low Altitude/Cool temp), Red Needle (High altitude/high temp), and a needle clip. Thanks, Chris -
Why wont my 2004 crf250r run while in neutral or with the clutch in? When I'm going it runs completely fine, but when I pull the clutch in, it dies. I run a 162 main jet and a 42 pilot. I have a 270 13.5-1 piston and a hot cam stage 2. Is this a jetting issue? I tried to turn the idle up, even checked the fuel air mixture screw. The plug is burning pretty hot as well. Its a fully rebuilt motor. I ran those jet specs with the stock piston and stock cam. Should I run a 165 main and 45 pilot? I'm at a 300-600 elevation. I'm just stumped, tried everything. It has to be a carb issue.
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Do you know if they make a jetting chart depending upon altitude and temperature, if so please get back to me thanks
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So i just purchased a 2013 YZ250 and its going to be my new project bike. first mods are all new white ufo restyle kit white gas tank full custom 180 decals full bud hgs racing exhaust steahly fly wheel weight ive always run stock jetting and exhaust so i was wondering what ill have to change when getting the new pipe and what pre mix i should run, my old race bike, sx125 i ran 40:1. the guy i got this bike off ran 50:1 yamalube but he only trail rode and im more of a pinned around the whole track. This is going to be my baby so i want to do everything right, thanks btw thats my base design but im getting custom 180 decals cause they are my sponsor and do better work
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Great all around bike, from mx to offload, competition to recreation. Easy to maintain, plenty of power, light wight and "flickable".
