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Found 114 results

  1. Hey forum! I have a question about setting up my 2018 KTM 450SXF. I weigh 225 and bought a stiffer spring for the rear shock. The stock setting as far as air pressure is 10.8 bar or 156 PSI. Is it typical to raise the pressure in the fork to balance the front and rear due to the stiffer spring. I think so, but correct me if im wrong. My thought is to raise it to 11 bar or 160 psi in the fork. Stiffer rear spring rate in the rear and more pressure in the front. OK so braking bumps felt harsh at high speed, so my thought is to soften the compression so it will ride lower in the stroke. Is this right? I guess the question is do you increase the pressure and soften the compression, or keep less pressure and stiffen the compression? Is it the same? I would love a comprehensive video or information on advanced setup. Thanks in advance for any insight.
  2. Hi guys, just looking for a new set of graphics and plastics for my bike, I have a 2012 ktm sx125. Does anyone have a specific place they aware by for graphics? Does anyone the the best place to get graphics? Thanks guys.
  3. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone knows how to take the powervalve governor out of a KTM/Husqvarna 85. I’ve bought a new spring for it and I don’t know how to fit it, I’ve heard the spring is in the same spot as in the bigger KTM’s but after I take the cover off the bolt underneath (pictured) just keeps turning. Does anyone know? Thanks heaps.
  4. Ok, this may be really dumb, but I’m stumped. ‘08 KTM 505 XCF was running great. I put a JD Jet Kit on it, with recommended settings (Blue needle, 3rd pos, 42/182, 1-3/4 turns on air/fuel). Post kit installation, including the accelerator pump diaphragm adaptor, and o-ring on the throttle linkage/screw, I cannot get it to idle correctly or get the hot start lever to do anything. It also backfires lightly when decelerating(like its lean). The blue needle is supposed to be the richer needle. It starts with the choke on, I can get the idle to basic normal idle with the idle setting, but when I rev it up, the idle accelerates to a very high idle, like it’s extremely lean. Then I can’t get it to come down without shutting it off, and it gets worse as it warms up. I pulled the carb, checked all the gaskets, checked the needle and hot start lever to confirm it wasn’t stuck. From what I understand, when you pull the hot start lever, it should increase the idle as it leans out the bike. Mine doesn’t do anything, and when the idle is revving, I pull it and it actually lowers the idle? I’m confused, as I thought the JD Jet Kit would be gold, as I’ve had it on other KTMs. Not sure if this is an air leak? Did the adapter I put on the accelerator pump diaphragm cause this? I’m about to pull the jet kit, and go back to a normal needle. Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated.....thank you....very frustrating.
  5. As the title suggests, I've been debating the idea of throwing in a high compression piston. It will bump the compression in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F from 13.5:1 to 14:1. First and foremost my main question is, because I live under 1000 ft and usually run 97 octane REC gas, will I have to change the fuel I run or not? Also, will I have to change out the cams to aftermarket and re-time the whole motor and ignition? I guess I really don't know what to expect so any advice will definitely help! Attached below is a photo of the bike I plan on putting it in.
  6. Hey guys, Got a 2018 250 xc-w and I hate the suspension. Been talking to some reputable suspension tuners in my area and this may seem odd because of the huge price difference, but I have narrowed my options down to the Dal Soggio XP-1 kit and the MX Tech Lucky cartridge. I'd like to save money and get the XP-1 but am not 100% sure it'll cure the forks. On the other hand, MX Tech Lucky has good reviews but for a full fork/shock rework, I'm looking at twice the price. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  7. I’ll try and keep this simple not drawn out, it’s a KTM, 2014 300xc. It idles great when you start it bud if you rev it up it takes it a while to decrease back down to idle. (1-2 sec) when you put it in gear the bike runs as should. Except when I pull in the clutch the revs increase so much it’s hard to shift into gear. (If im standing still) same if I’m riding and I want to pause and take a break, I pull in the clutch and it revs to the moon. It has a recluse clutch in it.
  8. Hi all, I am after a bit of advice on how to cure the running problems I’m having on my 2009 250 EXC-F The problem I am having is the bike is difficult to start once hot both off electric start and kick, spluttery when giving small blips off idle and will sometimes stall and also gets lots of pops, bangs and occasional flame on deceleration Mid range and top end performance feels good Carburettor is clean and currently set to stock factory settings and I have also tried a taffmeisters jetting kit with not much effect I get very little response from the fuel screw and the bike will continue to idle when all the way in and revs don’t seem to increase when backing the screw out incrementally to 2.5 turns out Valve clearances have been checked and are in spec Leak down test shows less than 10% leakage Air filter is clean along with new CR9EIX plug Any advice would be much appreciated Cheers Adam
  9. Hey guys, I just picked up my 2nd KTM 690 (first one was stolen) and the quickshifter is only functioning for downshifts. It also is very tight compared to my first bike. Has anyone else encountered this? Any suggestions? If not I'll take her back in on the weekend and get them to check it out. Edit: so after a bit more riding I've figured out that the quickshifter only works when the throttle is closed.
  10. So I am a fairly new owner of a 2015 KTM 250sx. The bike ran good for a while with a 50:1 mix which is what the previous owner used. The manual reccomends 60:1. However, recently i have been fouling the recommended spark plug and believe it has to do with jetting. The bike also tends to smoke a lot more than i think is normal as it leaves behind clouds. I cant seem to get a good understanding of the idea so i was wondering what any of you guys could do to help. I ride motocross and trails mainly in pennsylvania and places -1000 sea level. All i know is that there is a 158 main jet in. I have not done any digging yet because i don't even know where to begin with figuring out what jets to use. Any recommendations or solutions would help.
  11. For all of you lucky enough to own an '18 300 XC-W, what kind of deals could one get around this time of year? I know the '19s will be launching within the next few months. I'm wondering if I should wait until their release and save $$$ on a leftover '18. I'm on the eastern side of the U.S. by the way. Let's see the final OTD numbers!
  12. Let a buddy of mine ride my 1996 ktm 250sx, 2-stroke and he managed to come down on just the shifter after a small jump. The bike would barely shift after and had to be rocked for awhile to find neutral. I tore the clutch cover, clutch and the other half of the clutch case off to inspect the shift slide things and they appeared to be working correctly so i removed them and manually used a allen head to shift the gear tumbler and at first it wouldn't shift but when it did it made a loud click and then was able to shift between 1st, neutral, 2nd, and 3rd but refuses to go to 4th and beyond. When I try to get it into 4th, right before it should shift it makes a loud click as if when im spinning the gear tumbler, its turning something into a wall. Im lost at this point and want to know if its probably in my transmission and if so what could it be?
  13. Hi, i have a 2014 250sx and it as you can tell by the title it goes through plugs like no tomorrow. If you aren't already aware the 2014 ktm 250sx has been known for having the most horrible jetting from the factory, when i rode it with stock jetting i fouled a plug on every start up. Pretty frustrating but anyway i changed the jetting completely, i replaced the original needle (N1EI) with a N1EH, 38 pilot and 158 main jet, air screw 1.5 turns out. I also have a 40 pilot i tried but dropped back to the 38. I run 50:1 with rock oil and 91 unleaded. So i started with the clip on the 4th position and fouled the plug within 30 seconds, moved it to the second and still had a lot of oil covering the plug. Finally i moved it to the top position and it still had a small amount so i have the air screw all the way out and its still not perfect? This doesn't happen often but it will even let off a backfire when i rev it too much but once its completely hot it will run pretty good. I read on a previous thread that a person was running a 40 pilot, 158 main and the same needle (on the 3rd position) as me on the exact same bike and year and he said it ran perfect. (he was at the same altitude which is sea level) I will note most of the time it fouled a plug was between 1/4 and full throttle so i thought about maybe going leaner with the main jet? but in saying that if i start the bike cold and not rev it at all for a couple of minutes and shut the bike off i have a bit of oil built up on my plug. So i assume there is something else wrong a part from the jetting? If it is the jetting should i try a new needle or main jet? i could be wrong but its weird i have to have the clip on the top position, air screw all the way out and an extremely lean pilot and have the bike still running rich. was wondering could this have to do with my reeds? if there was a gap? I have considered a hotter spark plug but i dont think i should considering going from the BR8ECM to a 7 plug could be up to 70 degrees differint in temp and that wouldnt be good for the piston or cylinder. Not sure if this is relevent but it could help. I ride mostly at the track, im not super fast im more a c grade rider but i usually ride it on the pipe and when i do that it wont foul a plug but if i ever let it sit for a minute or even less sometimes it can still foul plugs when i rev it. ANY help is appreciated, i have read like 20 forums and still no solution. Thanks! Ash.
  14. 2003 KTM 250 sx has no gear oil fill plug because previous owner put after market carbon fiber cover on right side need help because I'm pretty sure its low but I can't check nor fill
  15. Recently picked up an ‘03 450 sxf and took it up to the trails without any issues. However recently I rejetted the carb and since then the bike stalls out when I pull the clutch in fully. I’ve adjusted the clutch cable and that didn’t seem to fix it and also reinstalled the original jet. The bike also feels like the engine is braking when no throttle is applied even in higher gears. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  16. Hi All, Recently I purchased a 2012 125sx from a friend dirt cheap. The only catch, the thing would occasionally seize up. I finally got around to slitting the cases on it and this is what I found. 30-40 loose ball bearings around 4-5mm in diameter, most of them on the transmission side(I gathered most of the ones i could find for the picture below). What I didn't find where any bearing races or any indication of where these may have come from. Now I have little experience with these machines, but common sense tells me I should have clear failure of multiple bearings to produce this many loose balls. While it is unlikely, someone could have vandalized this poor bike with a handful of BB's for a BBgun. My question to you fine folks: Where do you think these BBs came from? Am i missing something obvious? Thanks for your time. External link for pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/yR40O76
  17. Like I said I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc. I live in Southern California along the coast in Dana Point. Riding is almost entirely all desert. So far average altitude is maybe 1-3k pretty much sea level to about 5000 ft is where I normally take it. Whenever I blip the throttle when stationary the bike dies. I’m trying to put some money into the bike to release some more power. I’ve gotten lots of recommendations: jd jetting, new exhaust system, gearing, suspension etc. so I want to get this throttle problem fixed with the right parts. Anybody care to point me in the right direction if jetting or jetting/exhaust is the problem for me ?
  18. Hi all. This is my first time posting here, been using this wonderful resource for some time though. So a brief introduction and question. I got back into riding a few years ago after a long time away. A couple years ago I picked up a new to me 2009 KTM 200 XC-W. I've had a lot of fun the last two seasons riding the bike, but even after a fair amount of riding and getting more comfortable on the bike, it still feels really tall and really stiff. I ride trail and single track, some pretty steep and rocky trails here in northern CO. No MX, racing, or big jumps. I've spent a considerable amount of time on hold and emailing suspension companies trying to get recommendations with no response. So hopefully you knowledgeable folks here can help me out. I was told by the previous owner the bike was set up for a 190lb rider. I weigh maybe 140 soaking wet. I've played with the clickers and have a lower seat but the suspension seems too far out of the range for a person as light as I am. I've torn the forks down for seals and replaced a damper rod tube that had 80% of the threads snapped off where the fork cap / reb adjuster screws on (probably that 190lb previous owner going all Lennie form Mice and Men on it) causing the adjuster rod to be bottomed out just to get the cap on two threads and the clicker on the cap to be stuck. I'm an experienced mechanic and have no issues with the forks and can get the shock spacer added and serviced / charged with nitrogen locally. My question is on spring rates. Racetech's calculator gives me .359 fork and P5 progressive rate shock. Do I want to go up in rate much from there when lowering 1" all around? Here's my plan, based solely on the racetech calculator and my measurements from when I had the forks apart, so your thoughts and experience here are very much appreciated. Stock spring dimensions are 43.2 x 508 x .41. The rate in there now is unknown. I plan on using Racetech 42.7 x 493 in a .38 spring rate. That's .6 in shorter, There's enough shims up top to remove to get correct preload with an inch lowering spacer at the bottom. For the rear stock is 8.4 rate. I can't find any marks to guess what's in there right now. I am planning to use the P5 from racetech, again based on their calculator. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm a mechanic raised by a machinist and I've been trying to work this out for a while. Thanks in advance, Noah
  19. I just installed the OE front brake micro-switch on my 2014 XC-W. It's stock switch on the EXC and all of the front brake perch part numbers are common between the XC-W and EXC. As you can see in the picture, the brake lever comes nowhere near engaging the switch. Even with the lever adjusted fully away from the bar (which would be too far for me to reach comfortably), there is still air between the lever and the switch. Obviously, applying the front brake pulls the lever further from the switch. I know I can use a hydraulic banjo switch but I already bought this OE switch and I wonder if there's an adjustment I'm over looking? The picture below is the brake lever at rest. TIA.
  20. I need help finding a right side cover that covers the clutch on a 1991 KTM 250 mx. If anyone can help me find a replacement part that isn't cracked it would be much appreciated!
  21. Hello fellow 2020 KTM 150 XC-W TPI owners! I am debating on whether I should purchase this bike over something else in the price bracket such as a YZ250FX. I am currently more interested in the 150 since it is lighter, potentially more fun/engaging, and the fact that I have never had a two-stroke before and would like to indulge in owning one. My main concerns though are maintenance and reliability. Since the TPI system is new for the 150, I don't know if it's financially applicable to purchase a bike with since it may be prone to failure. What I would helpful is if you could post your personal experience with KTM's TPI (specifically on the 150 XC-W if possible). Also, how does this system affect general two-maintenance such as top-end builds (how many hours I can put on a single top end with normal riding for a small bore two-stroke) and what kind of extra work is required to maintain the components that the TPI consists of? In addition to this, does the fuel injection system increase the wear of specific engine parts such as the piston or cylinder? Responses to these questions would be great! Thank you.
  22. From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  23. New here, does anyone know if or what a good aftermarket carb is to replace a Keihin FCR-MX 39 is? I just picked up a 2002 Beta 525r and it's missing the carb. Looks to be in real good shape otherwise. Thanks, Eric
  24. I have this KTM 400 07 and Im getting annoyed of how I can give the bike a small bit of gas for example while holding the clutch the RPMs seem to last long before it goes back to normal neutral rpm. Why is this? I’ve cleaned the throttle house and etc but it still happens. I could use some tips and an explanation.
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