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  1. Want to see more? Tap here for 50+ family-friendly Bumpy Bikes videos featuring: No advertising, no swearing Quick-ish edits High-quality sound with no music and minimal talking Newest vids have GPS and split-screen action
  2. Want to see more? "Bumpy Bikes" playlist here featuring: No advertising, no swearing Quick-ish edits High-quality sound with no music and minimal talking Newest vids have split-screen action
  3. 0 comments

  4. 0 comments

    Absolutely love it. Perfect for cruising the beach to surf and mobbing down fire roads in San Diego county. Havent taken out to the desert yet but I am sure it will mash better than any other street legal 250cc
  5. 0 reviews

    2013 KLX250
  6. 0 comments

    For my dual sport adventures in Asia.
  7. 0 comments

    Stock for now. Winter mode - studded tires and a bit of jetting.
  8. 0 comments

    It goes
  9. 0 comments

    Love the bike just wish it had a little more torque but that can be fixed.
  10. 0 comments

    Best of both worlds on and off road.
  11. 0 comments

    SOLD.. great 250 after market DG pipe, FMF Power bomb header, Dyno Jet Stage 3 kit, Air box Mod, 3 Gallon IMS fuel tank, CR style handle bars, 13T drive sproket. Geat trail bike loved this bike
  12. 0 comments

    Excellent 250 dual sport, once you modify the intake and the exhaust it really helps.
  13. 0 comments

    Solid bike. Not very fast. But fun
  14. 0 comments

    Great bike very reliable.
  15. 17 reviews

    IDENTIFICATION Type: On-Off Road Warranty (Months): 12 Revision Status: Upgraded ENGINE Displacement (cc): 249 Engine Type: Single-Cylinder Cylinders: 1 Engine Stroke: 4-Stroke Valve Configuration: DOHC Carburetion Type: Carburetor TRANSMISSION Transmission Type: Manual Number of Speeds: 6 Primary Drive System: Chain BRAKES Front Brakes: Disc Rear Brakes: Disc TIRES Front Tire(s): 80/100 R21 Rear Tire(s): 100/100 R18 SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase (in / mm): 56.3 / 1430 Dry Weight (lbs / kg): 277.8 / 126 Fuel Capacity (gal / L): 2 / 7.6 Seat Height (in / mm): 35 / 889 Number of Seats: 2 FEATURES Tachometer: Standard Digital Instrumentation: Standard Windshield: Not Available
  16. We all know the KLX 250 has a lot of intake noise ( many users will not run the bike without the air filter cover ) , and also has verry little exhaust noise . It seams that it does not respond verry well to escape mods , mixture mods etc. The power and torque gains are somewhat marginal , 1-2 HP tops . The only mod that really wakes up some the KLX is the elimination of the air filter cover . All of the above means that the KLX doesn´t have enough intake advance and has too much exhaust advance . I´ve got a service manual and when I looked at the camshaft timings I´ve seen that I was right . It has the top elevation at 110 degrees after TDC for intake and 110 before TDC for the exhaust . These angle are tipical for a Ducati , BUT the KLX cannot even dream with a engine tuned for 13000 RPM or more . We ain´t got desmodromic distribution , large vertical ports , ignition advance etc. The camshafts in the KLX should be tuned for a 8000 RPM engine , due mainy for ignition mapping , carburetor/FI diameter , ports shape and size , reliability considerations . That means we should have 100 degrees not 110 . We gain in lows and midrange and we loose in the top that we will never have ( 13000 ) . The ECU ( igniter in carb models ) downright cuts the spark at 10500 RPM . Initially I wanted to get two camshaft sprokets and modify the screw holes on them , where they attach to the camshaft . But then one day looking at the picture of a distribution I realised I can do the mod without modifying the sprockets at all . If we look at a KLX sproket we see that it has 34 teeth , that means one tooth corresponds to 720 degees / 34 teeth = 21.17 degres . Hmm we cannot move a tooth , it´s too much , it will make the angles 89 degrees , the engine will be like a tractor : bad ass up to 3000 and nothig but peace and tranquility after that . I needed a half tooth , 10 and something degrees . Well , if we look CLOSELLY at a sprocket whe see that the distance between the two holes that correspond to " for INtake " and " for EXhaust " is two and A HALF teeth . Well the solution is at follows : For intake we give it 2 and a half teeth more advance by puting the screws in the position that corresponds to exhaust and then we retard the camshaft 2 teeth in the chain . The difference , as far as the cam is concerned , is a 1/2 tooth ( 10-something degrees ) For the exhaust cam it´s the same , but in the opposite direction : we retard the cam by puting the screws in the intake position and then we put the sprocket 2 teeth more advanced in the chain . This cam will de 1/2 teeth retarded ( 10.5 degrees ) . When everything is said and done it will look like this : Most of us know that everything good comes with strings attached : Modifying the exhaust cam advance / retard modifyies the ACR advance/retard . In this case the ACR will release the exhaust valve it touches 10 degrees later loosing a little more compression . Instead of closing arround 50 degrees before TDC it closes arround 40 and the effects are : The cold start is ... Meh , like an old bike ; the hot start is near impossible . We learn 2 things fromm this : 1) The ACR in the KLX ( at least the new ones ) is EXACTLY AT THE LIMIT . Hey Kawasaki ! What if someone looses compression due to natural causes , old age etc ? 2) I HAVE TO REPOSITION THE ACR , it means i need a press and a custom made wodden clamp for the exhaust shaft , whe don´t want to break or chip lobes now do whe ? A friendly word of advice : Don´t do this at home ! take the camshaft to a head shop and have them do the ACR . The camshaft is hollow and the ACR can be pressed out using a rod , it needs to be turned 6-7 mm ( 1/4 inch ) at the edge counter-clock-wise as you look at the ACR . This way it will be in the same position as it was initially . I put mine 8-9 mm more avanced , this way I´m left with a little more compression and my hot starting has improved a lot over stock position . Now y never have to crank more than a second for the bike to start . What I forgot to mention is that my ACR was rubbing , wasn´t smooth , like it was a little too tight from the factory so I gave it a little session of massage and tenderising with my friendly hammer . Here are some fotos of the ACR with the engine at TDC : Loock relly well at the pictures : 1) If you can´t see ALL the round piece above the edge of the head your ACR is too advanced , it leaves too much compression and you may damage the starter and/or the starter torque limiter ( the piece that the starter engages ) 2) If you can see 4 mm or more of the piece below the round one the ACR is too retarded , you loose to much compression and will not start . I think if you can see the round piece and only the half moon fromm the piece fromm below you´re allright . If you want a little more compression ( like me ) you can leave it so that only the round part is visible ( all of it , and the very tip of the half moon ) . Use a verry straight , sharp edge to determine all this , I´ve used a cutter blade , it seamed perfect for the job . 1 mm IS A LOT arround these parts . Before I forget : The bike really goes now Have no intake grawl , even with the filter cover removed , just regular intake noise , no grawl , it´s imperceivable while the bike is moving . My bike has the factory air filter , factory escape with catalitic converter , O2 sensor and all the other emission parts conected . I HATE POLLUTION ! For the best experience owners of carburated bikes may/will need to rejet a little . Mine is EFI so I didn´t . Here are my dyno runs from yesterday with the cam mods : 1) Power and torque graph ( in Kgf·m ) . Red and blue with the air filter cover and snorkel on , green and yellow without . 2) The same but with power and speed . 3) Two power graphs , one with cover and snorkel and one without . 4) Two torque graphs ( in N·m ) , also with and without air filter cover. Ladies and gentlemen ( and those who aren´t sure ) : WE HAVE 25 HORSIES ! . 👍 And a big , fat and flat layer of torque to go with it :D
  17. Let me start off by introducing myself, my name is Mike and I live is south jersey (tuckerton). I really want to get into the "legal" way of riding the pine barrens in south jersey. So I got my licence and now am on the market for a 250. I am looking into a new or used dual sport, as all know you have the crf250l, klx250s, or the wr250r. Fuel injected or not, as far as I see it i have never had a fuel injected bike so would I really care if i had it? You can only get so much out of a review so next best thing is to ride one. No one gives rides though, you can sit on it in the dealer. I am interested in tips/advice or if someone in the area has a bike they would not mind letting me go on a 5 minute ride. I would go with the Honda, but they say it has no power or suspension adjustment. It is fuel injected though. I would go with the Kawasaki, but it is carb and takes forever to warm up. (This is what I am leaning towards) And the Yamaha, it costs "too much" and makes power only in the upper RPM. Thank you in advance for any tips. Mike
  18. I was looking for a light weight dual sport bike as I was tired of pretending my XB12X Buell could even do dirt roads proficiently. I also was thinking about getting into doing some trail rides and more serious off road riding, when I was younger I raced in the 80cc division and continued to ride for years for fun after that. I have had an offroad hiatus until late last summer when I decided to purchase a dual sport. I shopped around and decided I didn't want the big old air cooled honda 650, and the Kawasaki 650 has gotten even bigger and more street oriented, I quickly settled on the three 250's (Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki). I later thought a DRZ might fit but am happy with my choice though in hindsight if I had given them more consideration I would probably have one now. Between the three it seems the WR was obviously the one to get, I just couldn't justify the $1500 extra price tag, between the Kawa and Honda the Honda looked nice but the Kawa got a little better review and I like the brand so I went with one of those. I've owned many dirt bikes, quads, and street bikes in my short time so was fairly open to brand though I didn't consider KTM because new they were out of my price range and the dealers are few and far between. After deciding on the Kawasaki I ordered one and was immediately underwhelmed as to the power it put out. It was barely enough for the street, and fine for trail riding though not much 'fun' factor. I immediately purchased a Two-Brothers exhaust and Dyno Jet Kit for it and installed them within the first 50 miles. This made a significant improvement but still underwhelming so I started looking for options. While considering options I had deemed the stock bars wouldn't cut it (after dropping it they bent very easily) so I changed them out for some Pro-Taper 1-1/8" with the adapters, because I needed the adapters I went with the Charmichael bend because it is lower to compensate for the 'riser' adapters. Some Acerbis heavy duty bark busters, kill the stock mirrors and make my own, and lop off the balls on the levers and the controls were pretty much set. Back to the power, it seems there are two routes to go, carburetor or big-bore, or obviously both. I figured either would add needed thump but couldn't spring for both, the carb would probably help but I wasn't sure it would be enough so I decided to go with the big-bore and re-jet the carb (again). I contacted Bill Blue from B & B Cycle Restorations and ordered the kit and took it back to the dealership for the install. I am really happy with the result and can say that the bike is really coming around. I do feel there probably needs to be a carb install in the future to really get everything out of the new 'KLX351S' but my birthday is in March so here's to hoping 🙂. I don't have many 'miles' on the bike, just a few trips around the block to heat-cycle it a few times and only ragged on it once or twice but it feels smooth and I am really looking forward to putting it through it's paces as it warms up in the future. All in all, great bike. The Tally: $5k For the Bike $900 for Big-Bore/Install $200 for Bars and Barkbusters $400 for Exhaust and Jet Kit So there I'm at the $6500 of the Yamaha but think I have a bit more bike than if I went with one of those to begin with, not to mention the exhaust and bars and 'accessories' that would have gone onto it. All around this thing may be no KDX but it sure does well and I'm loving it. Pictures of the bike as she sits: And finally some proof she gets used and isn't just a garage queen. And sorry if you've heard this story before or seen these pictures before on local websites or ADVrider.com I'm just finding out all of these new communities and getting going. ThumperTalk looks like a great platform! -Mike
  19. 0 comments

    Easy to live with DP/commuter
  20. 0 comments

    Kinda fun bike, but wimpy stock springs, and a notchy shifter. A little better suited for running around town than on trails. Throttle response for off road riding is not exactly confidence inspiring. The basic platform is not worthy of spending a bunch of money on, expecting big performance gains.
  21. 0 reviews

    2014 Kawasaki KLX250S Specifications Engine: Four-stroke, Liquid-Cooled, DOHC, four-valve single Displacement: 249cc Bore x stroke: 72.0 x 61.2mm Compression ratio: 11.0:1 Cooling system: Liquid Carburetion: Keihin CVK34 Ignition: Digital CDI Transmission: Six-speed Final drive: Chain Frame: Semi-double cradle, high-tensile steel Rake: 26.5 degrees Trail: 4.1 inches Front suspension / wheel travel: 43mm inverted cartridge fork with 16-way compression damping adjustment / 10.0 in. Rear suspension / wheel travel: Uni-Trak with adjustable preload, 16-way compression and rebound damping adjustment / 9.1 in. Front tire: Dunlop 80/100×21 Rear tire: Dunlop 100/100×18 Front brakes / rear brakes: 250mm semi-floating petal disc with two-piston hydraulic caliper / 240mm petal disc with single-piston hydraulic caliper Overall length: 86.6 in. Overall width: 32.3 in. Overall height: 47.4 in. Seat height: 35.0 in. Wheelbase: 56.3 in. Ground clearance: 11.2 in. Fuel capacity: 2.0 gal. Curb weight: 298 lbs. 2014 Kawasaki KLX250S MSRP: $5099
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