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Found 26 results

  1. Alright enough bullcrap. I'm gonna buy a two stroke because they are fun. I'm gonna ride it everywhere including the track. Performance aside, what is the single most reliable 2 stroke dirt bike EVER made? Is their any bike that I wont have to put a top end in every year? (Assuming I'm not an idiot who overrevvs it everywhere.)
  2. Ok I bought my boy a 2011 kx 85. Thought I was having issues with jetting. It's 140/45. Anyway the compression seemed low on it and my boy was running the piss out of it. Revving it hardcore. One member on here suggested I run a leak down test. I got a hold of a motion pro tester. I rigged it all up and couldn't get any hold on pressure at all. It's like I don't even have the line hooked up to the engine. So I was like shit now what? I went and grabbed and air line and started blowing air down through the tube and could hear air blowing out of somewhere on the bottom end but couldn't pin point it. Finally I decided to just take the flywheel cover off as that seemed to be the area it was coming from. Sure as shit it's full of rust and corrosion inside there. So what the hell do i do with this mess now? Do I have to replace all that crap or what?? I'll try to attach pics
  3. I getting to the point where I need to replace the crank in my ‘89 Cr250. I cannot find one for that year. Are there any that will work? I saw something about a 92-01 crank but didn’t go into details.
  4. 2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.
  5. Hi, I'm new to the forums! I'm looking at buying a dirtbike in a few months and not sure what to get. This will be the first dirtbike I've ever owned but I'm an intermediate rider from riding peoples' bikes every so often. I'm 5'9 184lbs and I'm looking at a 2stroke because of easier and cheaper maintainance and you can't go wrong with the powerband. I'm looking at getting an 85 either yz, rm, or kx. Most of the riding a plan on doing is ripping around in a field and occasionally some trail riding, nothing hardcore. Would an 85 be a decent choice? Thanks
  6. Hi, I’m having spark issues on my kx250f. If anyone is willing to do swaptronics with me, please let me know. Not sure what the problem is, so I figured someone could help me out by doing this. Thanks
  7. I was wondering if the is a way to de tune a 450 or some modifications that you can or people down to make a 450 motor more reliable?
  8. I have a 1999 kx 250 with some really ugly blue and green graphics and have been looking for some to replace them. I found the Chevy trucks kit for a 03 kx and was wondering if I could get this to work with minimal modifications to them and have them still look good
  9. I ordered a set of going racing radiator hose from eBay. I don't know the size of hose clamps to get. Can someone with experience tell me. Are they same as stock or what. Thanks
  10. Just replaced my entire suspension and the forks are very stiff even when loosened all the way. I was wondering if the forks just needed to be ridden on to break them in.
  11. About a month ago I had an issue with my 2018 kx250f where it would redline in every gear way too early. All bottom end and torque. She will still move quick but hitting any jumps results in an immediate Bonner air. I didn’t do anything I know of to cause it, just started happening out of no where at the track. I assumed it was a clutch issue so I took all the plates out, inspected them, relubbed with oil and put back in. It solved the issue for the time being. I rode it three more separate days at the track with no problems until I dumped it in a corner. Started it back up and it is happening again. Ordered all new clutch plates and springs, put them in and it’s still happening now. Thanks for any help.
  12. I have a 1999 kx 250. I got a brand new tire and my chain is rubbing on it. The chain is good and tight and when I slide it over it can barely touch the tire but it still does. My chain slide is looks very worn. Would a new chain slide keep it from hitting the tire? The ridge left on the slide is not even taller than half your finger
  13. On my 1999 kx 250 the wheel spins perfectly but it is not centered on the swingarm it is about 1/2 an inch away on the left and about 1 inch on the right. How do I fix this.
  14. On my dirt bike I can pull the clutch in and rev and it will move slightly when in gear. Also, it rolls forward a significant amount when kick-starting in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Also it is very hard to roll around in gear with the clutch pulled in. The clutch is adjusted correctly
  15. Hey whats up guys and gals , I am just curious and wondering to see what you guys hate about your dirt bike or a problem you wish your bike would never have. Just curious its for a school project and I just thought you guys could help me out. Thanks
  16. Just did a top end rebuild on my kx250f, got it all back together, started up fine, but it wouldn't idle, after shutting it down and tearing the cover back off, the valve housing (not sure exactly what this area is called, but the top of the top end?) Was filled with oil, pooled in the whole area. Any idea why this would be? I've done many valve adjustments, and have never seen oil in there like that The included picture is to show where the oil was at, but was taken after I had cleaned it.
  17. Hey guys, so I’m thinking about possibly putting electric start on my 2013 kx250f if it is possible. Sometimes it’s really hard to start. I am getting the motor rebuilt right now and I’m going to clean the injectors and all the electrical connections to see if that will help my problem. We already tried a plug and that was not the problem. So if none of this works, I was considering electric start. Is there a way that is possible? Thanks.
  18. I Have a 2001 kx125 I'm looking at making it better in the woods. Currently it always feels bucky and never wants to stay planted as well as it tires me out in the first 45minutes of the race any advice to help with this would be appreciated. Currently have renthal twin wall bars,Procircuit platnium pipe with r304 silencer, boysen pro series carbon fiber reeds, oversized radiators and eric gorr 144 bb
  19. Have a pipe from a kx100 my son blew the engine on and wondering if the pipe will fit a kx125? Its opposite side but the back pressure would be similar. Any advice?
  20. On my 89 Cr250 it loads up a lot and fouls plugs, I adjusted the jetting and it still does it, which isn’t a problem it was really rich and needs to go leaner, the problem is I could be lugging it through the woods where I can feel it loading up, then take it down a wide trail where I should be able to clear it out and I will go down the road and then suddenly it bogs and stalls like it fouled out when it should be clearing out.
  21. How would a Kdx 220 compare to a Kx250 with a fly wheel weight. Right now I don't really like the kx. How much better will it be with a flywheel weight. Will it be similar to the Kdx. Would it be good for tight technical trails with the weight
  22. This is my buddy's 1997 cr250 it stooped running. And wouldn't start and had no compression. when it was taken apart this is what was found, the rings and Piston crown broke at the exhaust bridge but it didn't seize and the cylinder escaped unscathed, I have no idea how it would have broke unless it hit the cylinder wall which would not make sense since the cylinder is fine, he said it was running hot at the time, could this cause the crown and rings to break, could it have just been time for it too go? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  23. In the manual for my 99 kx it says I can use 5w20 oil. Would anyone recommend that? Also what kind of oil should I use gear oil, Engine oil. Synthetic, non synthetic, ATF. Thanks
  24. I have a 2008 kx250f I recently split the outer cases and drained all the oil then took apart the cooling system and replaced the water pump seals and I still get a milky oil look in my sight glass when I start the bike but then goes away in after I turn the bike off and the oil cools. There was no coolant in the bike when I did my first kick over (bike ran for 20 seconds) so my question is does full synthetic oil look like this when it heats up? Or starts moving quickly? I also see little air bubbles when I turn the bike off but they go away also. Like I said the bikes oil looks brand new after leaving the bike alone for 10 minutes or when I drain it, it also looks amazing. Sorry for any spelling issues I'm trying to type this on a tablet.
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