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Found 14 results

  1. 0 comments

    Not the best handling bike, but it's been super reliable. I've owned it since 2008 and never had any major issues. I replace topends every 100ish hours, mostly because the wrist pin. Everything else is always within specs, but the chrome on the wrist pin is always galled. Stock DID rims were destroyed in the first year. Laced up some Warp9's and been good ever since.
  2. Hey guys I need help I am doing the fork seals on my 2007 yzf250 and I've never done a dual chamber fork before. Just wondering if you have any tips and what stuff I will need. I know I need the fork cap tools and the fork seal driver but what sizes do I need. I already got the fork apart but I Wana do it right to put er back together
  3. Since there's a few of us floating around trying to dial in SSS forks for offroad, thought I would start a new thread. Feel free to post up your specs, what its doing, what you're doing, hopefully together we can figure out the ultimate setup! My 2003 YZ295 with 07 YZ250F forks. 210 lb back of pack B racer. Base Valve: 32.12 (X8) 20.12 (from rebound) 32.12 (X5) 30.12 28.12 26.12 24.12 22.12 20.12 18.12 15.12 14.25 14.25 20x1.6 washer X2 11.25 Mid Valve: 20.12 (X2) 18.12 16.12 14.12 11.30 (x2) 17.30 (x2) .45mm float Rebound 20.12 (x3) 13.12 18.12 16.12 14.12 10.25 (X2) 16x1.5 washer .47 fork springs, 1.7 ICS spring, 320cc outer chamber Maxima 5WT They're pretty nice and plush for the trail, they soak up little stuff well, but the races are a different story - - chopped up, beat up, G-out, braking and acceleration junk everywhere by the end of the race. I'm using up all the stroke all the time..think this setup would be great if I was about 20-30 llbs lighter. My current plan is to beef up the midvalve a bit. My shock is a FC offroad revalve, gonna dive into that soon to see what they actually did.
  4. Just acquired a set of 07 YZ250F SSS forks that are being swapped onto my 03 YZ250. Similar to what NitrousR1 was doing last year, so basically copying some of the stuff he posted. Didn't bother to ride them yet, they needed seals, and well next thing you know I've got all the valving apart...previous owner claims FC revalved them, the stickers were present of course, and the valve stem peening was removed, so...It appears the changes were pretty minor and have no idea for what purpose they were built - here's what I have (and my guess as to what was modified) Base Valve: (all stock?) 32.12 (X17) 30.12 28.12 26.12 24.12 22.12 20.12 18.12 15.12 14.25 14.25 20x1.6 washer X2 11.25 -looks like these were no bleed from the factory...? Mid Valve: 20.12 (X3) ----"Maybe" they pulled one 20 here? 18.12 16.12 14.12 11.30 (x2) 17.30 (x2) about .5mm float to my best measure ability Rebound 20.12 (x3) 13.12 20.12 ----This was added? 18.12 16.12 14.12 10.25 (X2) 16x1.5 washer I'm a decent mid pack B woods rider, so my thoughts for starting points: -Go to 12-13 face shims on the base valve -Leave mid alone -remove that extra 20 from the rebound. -Also have a 1.7 IC spring for it. I guess my 2 questions would be: -X-over or no X-over? Am going to the softer IC spring, and there appears to be no bleed shim setup, so not sure if I need it. If I did one, it would be around 6th or 7th face shim, I've got an extra 22 I can use. -Do I go any softer on the rebound, and pull out one of the face shims? I'm already taking out that extra 20, I know some folks recommend lightening up the rebound for the woods. As usual, thanks in advance!!!
  5. So I've got a 2002 YZ250 that needed a fork rebuild. I got the seals and started breaking the forks down. I took the fork cap off along with the cup and spacers below it, but when I looked inside it I noticed a lot of blue trash in the fork. I looked at the rubber spacer that goes up under the fork cap and it was basically disintegrated. Other than age I don't have a clue why this would happen. I've called all the powersport stores around my area and none of them have the spacers in stock and if I order them I'll have to leave my forks broken down for the rest of the weekend and part of next week. I'm assuming that the spacer isn't that important either or something would have been damaged by now by the spacer being destroyed. Does anyone know if I can run the forks without the spacer or if that's a bad idea?
  6. I've created this thread for converting WP CC "internal bladder" forks (Not 4CS) to KYB/Showa "spring style" ICS internal cartridges. WP now offers the WP Race Performance Fork Kit (Part number: 48601441s) which can be purchased from PG Suspension and other WP suspension dealers. The cost of these new kits is somewhere in the neighborhood of $1100+. Qualify this thread: First let me qualify my point of view on this topic by stating that I am not an engineer or a suspension expert by any means. I am simply a MX enthusiast with basic/intermediate experience and skills in suspension tuning for KYB and WP forks. My depth of tuning ranges from typical oil, spring, and seal changes up-to refreshing OEM components on my WP CC bladder style forks. I am very meticulous in my approach, but I generally only follow best practices from suspension experts. I have not dived into more advanced modifications such as re-valving or modifying shim stacks. As an owner of two 2011 KTM's (150 & 250sx) with CC bladder forks and having ridden approx. 175 hours between both bikes, I feel it's a good depth of experience to compare the forks before and after the conversion. The Problem as I see it: It's well known that KTM's with WP Closed Chamber Bladder forks are not designed to be speed sensitive (different rates of speed in which the forks compress), therefore creating what many people and magazine testers have referred to as mid-stroke harshness. While the CC Bladder forks seem to perform well in "full stroke" or heavy compression scenarios, their performance is very sub-par and uncomfortable in lighter scenarios where only partial to mid-stroke compression occurs...compared to the Japanese suspension manufacturers. The typical scenarios for noticing the harshness of the WP CC bladder forks are whenever you encounter smaller style chatter or acceleration bumps, or generally whenever the forks need to compress at a fast rate of speed but without enough force/weight to be compressed more fully. While mid-stroke harshness is often referenced, I like to think of it as initial stroke harshness and/or "slap rebound" as the sensation experienced feels like your hands are being slapped. I find the slap is more clearly noticeable on lighter bikes while heavier 4 strokes give the sensation of a more mid-stroke harshness. The Theory: In overall design, the WP forks are very similar to Kayaba forks with the exception that WP chose to use a air bladder style cartridge instead of a spring-based system. The new WP Race Performance Kit is a direct replacement of the air bladder for a spring style system (see attachment). In theory, this should allow the initial movement of the fork to be more "speed sensitive" as the movement of oil pushing on the spring and valving should be more linear or progressive. On lighter faster hits, the air bladder simply doesn't react fast enough or and even prevents the initial compression stroke from being smooth and linear. The Goal of this thread: I have ordered a WP Race Performance Fork Kit and will seek to fine-tune forks on my 2011 250sx initially and then on my 150sx later on. I fellow friend has ordered the Kit for installation on a 2014 350sx-f. While the Kit is expected to be a direct replacement, it's highly likely additional tuning to maximize performance will be found by other early adopters of this kit. As more knowledge is gained we hope you will share your experiences in this thread so that we will hopefully resolve our woe's with WP CC Forks. My plan is to install the kit on my 250sx over the next couple of weeks, begin riding and then note my findings. I hope others will do the same.
  7. 0 comments

    1985 XR200R 4-valve frame w/ 1981 XR200R 2-Valve(2V) conversion: I salvaged 3 blown 1985 XR200R frames around 1998. Started Conversion/Install of 81' 2V mid 2005. = $200 Bartered for Amsoil 81' 2V motor mods in order as performed: 1) Powroll Header w/ Supertrapp: multidisc USFS spark arrester = $200 81'-83' UNOBTAINABLE NEW 2019 Powroll out of Business 2) Hi-flow gauze filter: modified 81' air box = $30 81-85' NEW? $???.?? 3) 81' Ported cylinder head: 10-20hrs. x $40.00 hr.(Labor of LOVE for Personal engines) = $200-$300 my labor worth (Selling myself short by about $60.00 per Hr.) 4) 28mm Mikuni round: slide w/ spigot-hose-hose clamp conversion = $125 81'85' NEW $???.?? 2019 5) Powroll Piston Kit: 11.5:1 C.R. 1st step oversize (65-66mm?) creating 198cc (?) = $150 86'-90' While Pete Fisher was still involved in Powroll 6) Powroll Stroker Crankshaft: creating 218cc. Piston dome modified for lower compression 10.5:1, using Powroll piston pin to top of piston dome height measurements guide. This is per Pete Fisher's recommendations, as their Engine Dyno testing proved 11:1 was best CR. Greater CR produced primarily >heat only. including many new parts = $350 83'-90' While Pete Fisher was still involved in Powroll 7) 81' Cyl. Head: Pre-Ported myself, Re-Ported & flowed by Powroll. I sent my ported cylinder head to see "How Good" or "How Bad" I did w/o using Flo-Bench testing. = = $150 86'-90' While Pete Fisher was still involved in Powroll 8: Megacycle NS Camshaft: "Torque" grind needle bearing camshaft = $150 used in 87' = $500.00 New 2019 9) 28mm Mikuni FLAT Slide: w/ short spigot plug in type (2-Smoke) manifold used primarily on 1st gen. frame. This created a very, very short Intake runner. = = $60.00 used 87' = $???.?? New 2019 10) 28mm Mikuni ROUND Slide w/ Welded/modified flange: due to 85' frame geometry, also used on 1st Gen frames originally. This uses OEM LONG Intake runner. = $50.00 used/damage in 83' = $???.?? New if available at all 1982'-1990' Rough Guestimate Cost Engine related PARTS ONLY = $1500.00 Value invested in this bike has not been determined yet. I have posted $$ in what I remember in approximate amounts and time periods. I have most receipts and part #'s of what was used. So, eventually I hope to post them and the actual costs for giggle factor. I have rated this bike like most XR200s and XR200Rs I have ridden and owned up to my Paddock years only, excluding 4-Valve motor, which I have never even heard run (Good Luck on that one) much less ridden. RATING = 5 Great Big Stars = Most smiles per mile, in this case hours ridden!! Thanks for reading/looking if you made it this far in my snore-fest XR/XL-125-185-200S/R 2v experiences.
  8. 1 review

    AOS/SSS 48mm spring forks.
  9. 0 reviews

    1989 Kawasaki 46mm conventional forks
  10. Dyno Data on TT You'd think dyno data would be all over the place in suspension forums comparing shim stacks, bike setups and year-to-year suspension tuning changes. Turns out dyno data is pretty rare. If you dig around there are a few dyno runs scattered through the TT suspension forum. This thread is an attempt to use the collective knowledge of TT to evaluate that dyno data and then try to figure out what the dyno data tells us, if anything, about how to tune a shim stack. Dyno data found so far: John Curea using the MxTech dyno posted a couple of dyno runs looking at a yz250 shock and a couple more dyno runs helping the Dogger tune his crf450 rebound stack. Valving Logic has a thread helping riders setup their suspension using a combination of dyno runs and test rides, and other threads looks at which stack is stiffer. Push Ind. Put out a sample EMA dyno run. MXScandinavia put out a great series of dyno tests looking at some of the basic shim stack tuning questions that come up around here all the time. Kawamaha posted some of his hydraulic dyno on TT. But some of his other dyno runs seem to have gone missing? If you know of any other dyno data here on TT? Post a link!
  11. I'm doing Hare Scrambles/XC racing on a 2002 YZ250. I'm a 6'2" 190lb "Fast C Rider". I also play ride MX, and want to give racing MX/GP/Megacross a shot, but the forks are holding me back. For the rear end, I've set the race sag to 100mm. I had to add a lot of preload ("tightened the nut" about an inch), so my bike sag is less than ideal now, which I understand indicates I should try a stiffer rear spring. What are the handling effects of running this way? Simply setting the sag helped the bike's manners an amazing amount. I was terrified to jump this bike before setting sag (hello boner air!), but after, it is much easier. It launches neutrally on most jumps now. I'm running full soft (out) on high speed compression (helps the rear stay put on rooty hill climbs, etc), and a few clicks out from stock on the rest. RT calculator says to go from 4.8 kg/mm stock shock spring to 5.4 or 5.6 kg/mm. The front end is not going so well. I've changed the fork oil and have been playing with clickers and oil level. No matter what I try, the front end is still too harsh on small stuff, and far too soft on big stuff. Clicking them to the bottom is a regular thing in play riding as well as racing. I can also feel and see the forks spending most of their time at the bottom of the stroke. I'm very budget-oriented, so I'm thinking about going ahead with stiffer springs with the stock forks and valving. Is that a mistake? In addition to springs, should I buy a tanks kit? Gold valves? Drill my valves? Should I skip springs for the 2002 forks (KYB 46U), and instead shop for 2005 AOS forks (~$200), or the 2-3x pricier 2006 SSS forks, and then buy springs for those? Should I plan to pay for a revalve for these forks after a swap? I'm feeling more than a bit lost here LOL. 48mm fork swap thread: /topic/1003475-figured-out-how-to-swap-07-48mm-sss-forks-into-03-yz250/ RT calculator says to go from 0.43 kg/mm stock fork springs to 0.48 or 0.50 kg/mm. Same rate but different size/part number for 05 or 06+ forks. Photos of the bike, to keep this interesting:
  12. Hi guys I have a 2018 yz250 looking at changing springs front and rear I'm 200 pound ride b class moto. Having problems choosing spring weights using the calculators as mx tech say I need .45 fork springs and 5.2 rear but racetech say .48kg forks and 5.8kg rear. What are other bigger guys
  13. Stock yz250 fork base clamp shims of 14mm and 16mm have been used over the years. I am currently running one 14x.25 clamp for woods valving but I see stock was two 14x.25 clamp shims in 07 but then they moved to just one 16x.25 in 08 and on for a number of years. The extra clamp shim would let the stack flex farther I would guess. Would there be much noticable difference in running two 14x.25's vs one? Also does anyone run a stack with a 16x.25 clamp with just less face shims to soften it for the woods or is a 16mm clamp just too stiff?
  14. So I just bought a 97 YZ250 that needs to be fully rebuilt from the ground up. It came with the stock 97 forks and rear suspension/swing arm, but he also gave me a full 02 set of forks and a full 02 swing arm and suspension with wheels and brakes from the 02 as well. The question i have is will they both fit on the 97 easily and interchangeably? Or do i need special parts to swap out? Or is it even worth the difference from the 97 to the 02 suspension? Thanks for all the advice in advanced!
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