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Showing results for tags 'LeversPerches'.
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1 review
GENERAL DESCRIPTION The stock brake pedal on the Honda CRF250L is non-folding, which makes it prone to damage in a crash. DRC now produces a folding rear brake pedal for the CRF250L which is a direct bolt-on replacement for the stock pedal. It also looks very trick on the bike in Black with a Red folding tip. STANDARD FEATURES Durable forged construction Black brake pedal body Anodized Red Folding Tip Ultra grippy teeth on pedal platform Includes tether to attach to bikes frame -
1 review
DETAILS The Tusk aluminum brake pedal uses an extremely tough forged aluminum arm with a CNC machined toe tip to make this brake pedal one of the strongest you can buy for your motorcycle. The CNC machined tip is spring-loaded and rotates to prevent damage from crashes and impacts. The CNC tip also features stainless steel cleats for maximum traction; it is also replaceable in a variety of colors. The Tusk brake pedal also includes an adjustable length brake saver cable and mounting bracket to help prevent damage from brush, rocks, etc. Stock replacement motorcycle brake pedal; engineered to meet the demands of motocross and off-road racing. Pedal arm is made from forged, anodized aluminum; the tip is made from CNC machined billet aluminum. Rotating CNC toe tip prevents damage from crashes and impacts. Tip also features stainless steel cleats and is replaceable in a variety of anodized colors. Adjustable length brake saver cable and mounting bracket also included. -
A lot of people loosen the brackets that attach your clutch or brake assembly to the handle bar, so in case of an accident the assembly will spin rather than break. But its difficult to get the right tension and the friction factor changes with water, mud, etc. which can cause the assembly to work its way loose and move while riding. I find the best idea is to wrap Teflon tape (plumbers tape) around the handle bar where the the clutch and brake assembly will be mounted. The Teflon is frictionless, so you can still tighten your clamps firm but it allows the assembly to spin with force in the event of a crash, but not rattle loose while riding.
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I am the King of Dirt...Cheap, so here's some tips that are fresh on my mind tonight: #1---To prevent levers from breaking, unmount your perches, wrap plumbing teflon tape around the bar, then remount. Works unbelieveably well. #2---Many bearings/seals/etc are interchangeable among all the Japanese bikes; however, for some unknown reason, Suzuki will sell them considerably cheaper. Even better, most American machine shops now carry NTI bearings now, which are Japanese and often the same maker as your bike's bearing/seal. In this case, carry the old one with you and buy the parts guy a Coke, and he will look up a cross-reference/match for you. If he finds one--likely--it will be either cheaper or MUCH cheaper. He will have different grades/strengths, and if he is savvy, all you will have to do is hand him the old one and explain the bearings particluar use/job application. #3---The auto world has considerable stuff that we can use, from hard parts to soft parts to very trick tool ideas (that you can subsequently make yourself.) I regulary make my own non-critical paper gaskets from Felpro gasket stock; once you mike the thickness/es that you need, then go buy this stuff by the sheet at a FRACTION of the bike price. There are several methods to "drawing" the gasket shape, but the easiest for me is to smear a film of grease on the part's edge, lay it face down on the gasket-sheet, and voila---you know can take your scribe and cut it out. es, Herman, you do want the gasket to have grease rubbed inot it on both sides to allow you to remove it w/o tearing it next time. No, it will not leak, unless you have irregular surfaces. I do use yamabond/three-bond for magneto covers... Yes, posterboard makes pretty darn good gasket too, or your kids' construction paper, but Felpro is def best. #4---Pipe-to-head junctions: Auto parts stores will have sheets of "high temp gasket material". This is not dirt cheap, but much cheaper than buying it in liquid form, and a heck of a lot easier to work with, and reusable to boot! Cut out a doughnut of it and sandwich it inbetween the pipe and jug. (You may spray it liberally with silicon spray to help ease the pipe in, but you already knew the value of that stuff for air boots/etc anyway, I am sure.) #5---Shimming an old bike with bronze shims can add many hours of life to it, not to mention tightening up the old bird. The se can also be had at an auto machine shop; you may buy them by the handful or by the set/kit (even cheaper.) Buy a metric kit if thay offer it, and it will be loaded with different ID/OD?thicknesses of bronze shims. #6--If you are loop-out prone, remove the two lowest rear-fender bolts' washers. I am from the old school that still belives that a slow, controlled wheelie is a danged nice trick, so...This allows the fender to get ripped off w/o ripping it up, as these two will just pull thru. I even go so far as to cut out the upper mounting holes on their 7 o'clock thru 5 o'clock positions. A nickel-sized automobile fender-washer ensures proper grab, yet the fender will pull off once the tire grabs ahold of it... #7--That Plastic-renue product does indeed work pretty darn well; tho I prefer to jsut work some overtime and then just go buy a fender instead, usually, as I am not fond of sanding. #8--Radiators/Pump seals!!: do not use antifreeze containing silica, ie, SAND! The sand does indeed keep everythign scrubbed clean, but also scrubs your seals, too! Japanese auto makers do not put this stuff in their cars, as they understand that if a person uses ONLY distilled water in their system, and then annually changes the fluid, there will BE no "buildup". Once again, you can buy this silica-free coolant at auto stores and it is MUCH cheaper than a japanese dealer, auto or otherwise. #9--The biggest tip I know: Go to your local AMA Qualifier race, and you will find perfectly good plastic/tires/etc being thrown in the trash barrels. Most of these guys have heavy sponsors and so change their tires after two motos, bars after one crash/tweak, etc, etc. They will even throw away 75% good brake pads if it is a mud race, b/c they dont want to get stuck with overheating/thin pads in the next moto. They are also a wealth of inside info about your particular bike, when you pick a "with it" rider/team. Even if it is a few years old, they usually remember what the did to set it up. Their knowledge can save you a bunch of heartache. #10--Tire changes: Did you know that there was once an American ISDE team that could change rear tires using NO tools but their hands?? And inside of 9 minutes at that. They said their main key is to keep the tire's 12 o'clock beads in the CENTER (ie, the deepest) part of the rim. (Since the trough's circumference is much smaller than the tire's, you have instant slack created.) This allows you to pull it toward you further, creating a much larger gap for the 6 o'clock beads, so you can get it over the rim's edge. I go so far as to put 2 small C-clamps on the tire at 10 and 2 o'clock, enabling me to keep the tire in the rim's deep trough. I def use dishwashing soap on the tier, and even leave it out in our nice 100-degree sun for an hour to soften up, too. Also, use rim protectors to keep from marring up your rims. They are plastic, clip-on covers aobut 3 inches long,Auto tire shops use them for nice aluminum wheels as well (cheaper to get from them.) #11---Acrylic home floor wax makes a fine bike-shine, as does plain old silicon spray to a lesser degree. The floor wax must be applied with a sponge, and in one direction, else you will see lines in it once it dries. Once you wash your bike it comes off, but will def take Simple Green/etc to get off. #12---If you will spend $60 for a Karcher electric power washer, and then NEVER run it longer than 1~2 secs w/o spraying, it will last forever as a fantastic bike washer. (If you do not keep water running thru the pump, ie, keep spraying, the little pump gets too hot, causing it to fail prematurely. This is about its only flaw.) Oh yeah, most home hot water heaters have a readily accessible drain valve, already threaded to accept a water hose! Imagine that... And we all know that hot water evaporates much much faster than cold, thereby preventing a lot of potential problems associated with water retention in various places...see also #18 below. #13---If you do not have the cash, buy an old-fashined, QUALITY, broom. This and a 5gal bucket of hot soapy Dawn will do literally almost as well. Hang the broom when done of course, or it will dry in a bent form. #14---Auto Wrecking yards and scrap metal yards frequently have dirt bikes/skeletons in them. I have gotten some fantastic winter projects for peanuts this way. Sadly people get divorces a lot nowadays, and when they move, many times the bike that they inteded to fix up for umpteen years suddenly is a problem: do they store it or just get rid of it? Those free want-ad papers are ripe with deals as well, for this very same reason... #15---Take your electrical connections apart while they are still clean and apply some dielectric grease to them. Years down the road you will be very very glad; Japanese electrics still basically stink after all these years, so dont weaken an already marginal flow with corrosion/poor contact. #16-- Needle bearings/bushings: I know we should all grease our linkages every time we wahs our bikes, etc. But since we barley have time to ride, I assemble mine with automotive engine assembly lube, which is very high in moly and graphite. This means that after many abusive rides and washings, there is usually still some forme of lubrication in there, though thick and pasty it may be. No, you will not feel any difference in your shock linkage's action; if you think that you do, then you need to just go a tad faster, Mr. Spode. #17---...here's another that I forgot, especially if the bike is new/been 100% cleaned up: I also remove the throttle assembly, remove all liquid lube from the inside of tube and bar w/contact cleaner, and lube w/locksmith's powdered graphite; ESPECIALLY if running handguards where the throttle-end grip has been cut out (to avoid retaining grit). #18---And one more: Never will a bike be as clean as it is new, so I take this chance to go ahead now and mark crucial-but-seldom-removed bolts/nuts w/a paint pen to facilitate confirming them visually, and remove the tank and spray the elec parts/connections w/aerosol di-electric protectant. (And spraying the rest of the bike under the tank/area w/aerosol silicon or WD40 will go a long way in making it easy to clean with just a spray hose and no scrubbing once its coated w/dried mud.) #19---...and one more, for all you tall guys (and gals): TO raise your bars w/o having to spend a lot of ca$h, proceed to your local friendly bike salvage yard, find a couple bar clamp "caps" that match/align with the ones currently on your bike already. First, as with all clamps and caps, take a rat tail file and grind off any sharp edges, to prevent them from cutting into/weakening your aluminum handlebars over time. Now take off your bars, place this 2nd set of clamp-caps upside down beneath your handlebars, but on top of your existing bar-clamp. Now put your existing clamp-caps on top of that. Buy some new, longer clamp bolts to make up for the added thickness of the added clamp-caps, and "voila", your bars are now the same familiar bend but ~1/2" higher, and wa-a-ay more comfortable while standing! If they are too high, grind them thinner and retry. I do this to all my bikes that don't have aftermarket clamps/high bars, as I am 6'2" and also suffer from bone spurs in my neck, so bending over while looking up is darn painful, not to mention slower...ttfn. #20---And yet another: there is no comparison to using S2000 / aka Honda's bike wash, but a pleasantly suprising 2nd place is Mr.Clean. This is what Carmichael's Kawasaki mech showed me at a Dallas SX in '98, and he is right, as long as you rinse it well as with all effective cleaners...I am a big fan of Simple Green, but Mr.Clean seems a tad stronger. Once the bike is clean, buy a QUALITY spray bottle from your local friendly janitorial/auto detailing supply store for about $3, fill it from a gallon jug of WD40, and proceed to spray the bike all over, sans bars y seat. Spray even under the tank and belly. (You must use a quality spray bottle, as no other spray bottle will spray a fine enough mist, ruining the whole trick.) Now, towel dry the plastic if u so desire, and you will be amazed at this stuff's effectiveness at both protecting everything and repelling stains (we have red clay here). Your bike will be stain-free after years of this practice. A gallon of WD40 will last years. There you go, have a factory-clean scoot for pennies on the dollar. Honda's silicon spray bike-detailer is great stuff for detailing/shining, but I rarely use it when I have already wiped the plastic down w/WD40, unless the plastic is white, in which case I have found no equal cleaner for getting dirt out of scratches w/o damaging the plastic.
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3 reviews
Machined billet aluminum On the fly adjustment Sealed bearing in lever for a smooth pull and no slop Kit includes 2 rubber boots, 1 for the perch lever and the other fits over the cable side to keep grime out -
2 reviews
Universal application fits most make and model offroad bikes Exclusive light weight, low profile design Durable anodized finish Ergonomically shaped hotstart trigger Factory inspired quick adjust star Unique full-coverage pivot mount rubber boot keeps assembly debris free Sealed bearings at lever pivot virtually eliminate friction and provide a smooth, consistent feel 6061 precision forged aluminum with ultra-durable anodize finish Available with or without 4-stroke hotstart assembly -
2 reviews
Choose from 3 positions according to your clutch pull and riding style: Top position for increased cable pull Middle position, same as standard lever assembly Bottom position provides an easier pull (325% less effort) Cable adjuster is an anodized pivoting regulator, easy to adjust and eliminates cable drag in all positions Vulcanized, exclusive silicon rubber grip for improved control in all weather conditions Needle bearing for free lever movement -
2 reviews
Polished cast aluminum brake and clutch levers with real bronze bushings Many clutch levers available in standard length and shorty Shorty levers are modern-style clutch levers, approximately 1/2 shorter than OEM Work with OEM or Moose perches Black and silver available for some applications -
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My friend from Finland actually found this in local Craigslist! So, as an investment, I went right after it before the hillclimbers got to it. It’s an awesome bike in great shape, relatively low hours and mostly original. I installed a new seat cover and tires then picked up a janky pair of shrouds to save the originals. It has been bored however, but man, this thing is an animal....even my buddy says it runs way better than his CR500 he’s owned since new. Honestly, I don’t want to sell it now! -
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Current mods: Seatconcepts seat Acerbis 3.7 gas tank (black) Acerbis RMZ 450 front fender Acerbis black tank shrouds Acerbis black number plates Acerbis black rear fender Rear luggage rack Thumpertalk Engine case protectors Thumpertalk Skid plate Zeta brake lever (from Wheeling Cycle Supply) Righteous clutch lever Zeta mirror holder (for GPS ball mount) (from Wheeling Cycle Supply) Moose racing black handguards Moose racing plastic handguards Polisport halo headlight (black) Black tail bag -
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Great bike. It's getting a little slow for me though. -
2 comments
It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack. -
1 review
SPECIFICATIONS: - Stock replacement brake and clutch levers. - Available in standard and short length. - MX, ED and dual sports models available, Sold Separately. -
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I told my wife I was buying a bike with everything I wanted on it when it's new, so I ordered this on Beta's BYOB at $12,000 total, in July '14 and received it Sept '14, a great deal for what's in the bike, I was surprised she was good with that. The bike has been reliable and has me riding faster than ever. -
1 review
Includes the legendary ARC folding/adjustable lever Lever uses an external pivot that has replaceable bushings in the perch. This means no up and down play in the lever There is a nylon sleeve on the handlebar that helps the perch rotate in a crash preventing damage The quick adjust is 1/3 turn and very easy to access Perch part is made from die cast aluminum and CNC machined for accuracy. This perch has the same geometry, function and durability as our RC-8 perch -
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Love this bike, w/ the added rekluse and slip on fmf. I can tear thru anything in any condition. -
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Great motor, great suspension, great handling. Rides better than it looks. Fast as eff. Easy to work on and maintain. A keeper for life. Needs a few mods for added comfort on the road, but overall, there's no bike I'd rather be on. -
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Compared to my last ttr, WHAT A BIKE! I've only ridden a year. this is my second, just went up and down the street, I already love it! -
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First bike. Still learning, but I think it's perfect for a beginner like me. -
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love my tank. -
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bike is unbelievable great in the woods -
