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Found 25 results

  1. k.g

    Yamaha YZ250 (2007)


    Bought just to start woods racing, and it was a great idea. What an awesome bike. One of my favorite bikes I've ever owned, and I've owned a bunch.
  2. I have some play….not a lot, but more than I should with a link system in my 06 YZF. So i trace the slop to where the swing arm connects to the linage arm. Pulled it apart, bearing are good (well greased, move freely, no signs of rust) and discover that there appears to be some space between the bolt and the collar – not a snug, or slight drag fit. Inspecting both items, they have minimal wear and appear near new so I don’t think replacing them would solve the problem. Anyone have experience with this and if so, what was the solution?
  3. ThumperTalk

    Pivot Works Linkage Bearing Kit

    5 reviews

    Includes lower shock bearing, seals and pin Restores rear suspension handling and control lost to worn or rusted lingage components Eliminates researching multiple part numbers Kit contains bearings, pins, collars and seals manufactured to OE specifications for a perfect fit An affordable solution to buying expensive OE components
  4. MxSkater86

    Pro Circuit Lowering Linkage

    2 reviews

    DESCRIPTION Pro Circuit's Linkage Arms are CNC-machined from billet aluminum and are designed to stiffen up the initial linkage curve and improve the geometry of the chassis, making the bike much more stable. This will also help eliminate the initial loose and wallowy feel. Turning and cornering capabilities are greatly improved as well. Although having your suspension revalved by Pro Circuit would make a considerable improvement, the Linkage Arms alone provide a major improvement over the stock set-up. Each link arm includes all of the required bearings and seals. Stock length for the YZ250F/450F is 142.0 mm - Pro Circuit Length is 143.5 mm
  5. EnglertRacing

    Merge Racing Technology Merge Knuckle

    1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS The latest generation CRF chassis has vastly improved steering geometry; unfortunately the rear suspension not only overpowers the front of the motorcycle making the steering “nervous”, it also has poor resistance to bottoming, so the whole motorcycle is unable to reach its full potential. The majority of aftermarket suspension companies have chosen to offer a longer drag link. This delays the stock curve, making the top of the stroke feel more compliant; however it softens the shock through the entire stroke and decreases the steering head angle, which is undesirable. After many hours testing, Merge presents you with the solution. The Merge Link Knuckle creates a completely new progression curve that stabilizes the rear suspension without compromising the steering geometry. This product enhances handling with stock shock and units with modified damping. Used by Kyle Regal and Jimmy Albertson in the AMA Pro MX Nationals, and Jimmy Albertson in Supercross.
  6. Bryan Bosch

    Fastway Adjustable Linkage Guard

    9 reviews

    This link guard lets you customize your rake angle, lower your seat height, improve steering and cornering, and can also help keep your bike flat through the whoops and rollers. It also protects the expensive lower shock, and improves traction.
  7. BuckeyeGreve

    Husqvarna FC 250 (2015)


    New bike, so far so good. Off road hare scramble GNCC set up.
  8. nvrider

    KTM 250 XC-F (2011)


    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  9. Sierra_rider

    Beta 300 RR Race Edition (2015)


    It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack.
  10. Baxter67

    Beta 300 RR (2015)


    I told my wife I was buying a bike with everything I wanted on it when it's new, so I ordered this on Beta's BYOB at $12,000 total, in July '14 and received it Sept '14, a great deal for what's in the bike, I was surprised she was good with that. The bike has been reliable and has me riding faster than ever.
  11. JustTakeItEasy

    KTM 450 SX-F (2013)


    Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator
  12. em8691

    Suzuki DR-Z400S (2003)


    This bike has come along way from the stock POS Suzuki puts out, but really a solid mild bike turned into a ROCK SOLID fire breathing monster! I'm sure that I left some stuff out but it's been fun transforming this bike into something that I'm proud to own, and a big THANK YOU to all here at THUMPERTALK for helping me make this bike happen! Eric ps...MORE pics to come Of course I listed all my mods without using the "add mod" option. SHOOT!!! too late now, well here they are... CW 434 big bore Hot Cams Stage 2 intake and exhaust E header pipe w/ FMF Q exhaust FCR MX 39 carb ThumperTalk MCCT Free powre mod Shoria LFX14A2-BS12 battery (210 CCA!) Kickstart (just because) ThumperTalk Case covers (before they were "branded") IMS +1 shift lever dr650 clutch arm lever(shorter cable pull) IMS pro SS foot pegs Clarke 3.9 neutral tank Pingel petcock SSW short pull throttle tube w/ single cable ProTaper Pastrana FMX 1 1/8 bars w/ pillow top grips Zeta triple clamp w/tall risers Cycra probend handgaurds w/ Zeta inter-grated turn signals Acerbis Cyclops headlight Acerbis plasticsPoli-Sport plastics WER steering stabilizer Happy Trail skid plate Race Tech Gold valves GR-2 Race Tech .54 fork springs Race Tech 6.0 shock spring Topar rear disc guard KTM fork guard mod Galfer SS front and rear brake lines Galfer front wave rotor (18" 21" set up) Shinko Golden Boy 244 DOT trail tires (18" 21" set up) Michelin HD tubes Warp 9 SM wheel set w/ Conti force SM 120/70/17 150/70/17 Kytech bilet rear rack Happy Trail pannier racks Pazoma levers Unibiker radiator guards Silicone radiator hoses Pivot Works wheel bearings Pivot works suspension bearings Seal Savers fork portectors DRC edge tail light flush mount rear turn signals
  13. Rooster72

    Free play rear linkage

    2011 CRF450, when I lift up on seat there's play in the rear linkage but it's hard to pinpoint where's the issue. What's the fix?
  14. I am getting back into riding dirt bikes after many years away and as m not familiar with the acronym P.D.S for rear suspension. I have gathered that it is a non-linkage type of suspension like used on KTM XCW models. While P.D.S. intuitively seems simpler, I am curious as to what benefit comes from a linkage type rear suspension. Thanks for your help. I'm really learning a lot from the TT forums.
  15. Took my lower link arm into a local shop to just have them pull my linkage arm bearings OUT because they can't be pressed through, and I figured since they do this stuff all the time...theyd be able to get them out clean. While I was droppin it off, I figured I would see if they could press my old stem bearing off and put the new one on. Turned out to be fairly inexpensive so I said just do both. Usually I would do my own, but figured it'd save me a trip (and gas) to my buddies who owns a 12T press. I left them my whole brand new All Balls stem kit and they were going to just pull out the lower bearing and seal needed. So, I go to pick the stuff up today. The parts guy begins to tell me how they pulled the upper one out to look at it, and noticed it was beat to sheit (pics provided). He said, they have seen this happen before with All Balls and its a manufacturing problem. I on the other hand have used a number of All Balls kits including the stem ones and never seen anything like this. Plus, and I am not 100% certain it wasnt there, but it just so happens that my stem is gouged in two places right where this upper bearing (smaller inner diameter) would have stopped and needed to be pounded on. As I said as best as I remember when cleaning the grease off the stem prior to drop off, there were no gouges on it. Judging by the previous owner(s), the linkage bearings were never touched. Well, after I got the arm back, the inside where the bearings seat is gouged to high hell and they gave me the bearing pieces back in a baggy. To their credit they said they were going to cut it and pull it out. I knew there was a risk in doing it this way of some damage to the part, which is why i figured if I took it in...itd be something they had done before since they are a yamaha dealer...Obviously they just took a screwdriver or something and went gun ho on it. I should have tried to get to someone beyond the parts guy while I was there, I am sure they will try to say I did it after I left. I wanted to get in touch with the seller on ebay and see if he has stuff dropped shipped through someone like WPS which would be a basic certainty they were NEVER opened or mount attempt made. And, contact All Balls direct to see if their story of manufacturers defect could hold any water whatsoever. IMO...its a straight up lie...because they think everyone who brings stuff in knows nothing....I just wanted to save the hassle since its close by and have them do it....big mistake its looking like. Siigh. I forgot the question, haha.. Anyone EVER had an All Balls part come out of the package looking beat like this? I mean to me its clear as day what happened to it.
  16. MotoX178

    KTM 300 XC (2014)


    In depth review with pictures at 20 hours: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1081271-2014-ktm-300-powerparts-review-at-199-hours-picture-heavy/#!F5QmP
  17. motoinmoab

    Lowering Your Seat Height

    There are several ways to lower your bike, from cheap to expensive. All have their advantages and issues. Warning: When you lower the bike, your frame and foot pegs go down. Do only as much as you have to, you will bash your skid plate and kick bad stuff that others will clear. The cheapest thing you can do is cut your seat foam. You can do this yourself, it's pretty easy, but you’ll need a very powerful stapler to put your cover back on. Take out 1" to 1 1/2" and you'll really feel the difference, in height and comfort There are many companies that sell a lower seat pad with a wider profile and more comfortable foam, I’ve used Seat Concepts and like it much more than when I just cut down my stock foam. You’ll notice immediately that when sitting you've just raised your bars and tightened up your knee bend. Some people don't like that, while others feel better balanced sitting lower into the bike. Also reasonably cheap and easy is a lowering link. I've used a Kouba Link on a couple of my bikes, there are several other manufacturers of lowering links out there. They’re very easy to install and don’t cost too much for most bikes. Usually several different lengths are available, but the more you drop the seat the more it affects your suspension travel. You’re changing the length of a lever arm in the middle of a very complex mechanical system. Here’s a quote from the Kouba site FAQ’s: “They put more leverage on the rear spring and make the rear more compliant on the small stuff but may require a heavier rear spring to help prevent bottoming if a rider is very aggressive.” In my experience the model that drops your seat about 1" is the best compromise, going more than that and the suspension tuning and steering problems can start to arise. If you’re not a real aggressive rider, lowering links are great. If you ride “race pace” then you might need to buy a stiffer rear spring. A new spring makes this mod a lot more expensive. You can take your suspension to a specialist shop and they will put spacers inside your forks and shock. These will restrict the overall length of your shocks, lowering your whole bike by reducing the amount of travel you have available. This service will require new fork springs, and can include custom tuning the suspension valving for how you ride. Cost runs from $500 to $800, and you lose some travel, but if you’re a trail rider with a harsh MX suspension, this mod can take care of both issues. I have lowered the suspension on 3 of my bikes over the years and never liked the ride as much as stock. I cut them down from 1” to 1 1/2” and used 3 different Well Known companies. Many riders post that they Love this mod, posting “Best Money I Spent On My Bike!” A different rear tire can lower your seat a lot. The typical 110/100x18 knobbie is a tall tire, racing has proven the need for that tall sidewall design. If you don’t race, a Dunlop D606 is a much lower profile dual sport tire, 120/90x18, that is still very aggressive in the dirt and DOT legal also. Some riders choose to cut their sub-frame. You cut out a small (+/-1/4”) piece of the diagonal strut of the sub-frame and weld it back together. Be Careful- too much and you will bottom your tire into your fender before you use full travel. The subframe and seat will now slope backwards a little; a friend did this to his KTM and it felt weird to me. The back of the seat got lower, the front not so much. Lower the bike too much and your kick stand will be too long. If you ride aggressively off road, lowering the suspension a lot can come at quite a cost in ride quality. And speaking from personal experience- I’ve had my feet swept off the pegs by rocks and in deep ruts that everyone else cleared on their taller bikes. And that shit hurts.
  18. -ride4life-

    linkage skid plate?

    I've always cringed every time my rear linkage smashed a log/rock, and did not realize til today that there are skid plates for them! Anyone know where I can find one for my 520RS? I saw this on Cody Webb's bike. I only found them for KTM in a Google search. A point in the right direction would be appreciated! http://twostrokemoto...p-carousel-7733
  19. its the Riddler

    California california linkage guard thread

    after pounding millions of rocks and logs my linkage is now fubar it's no longer round and pinching the bearing so it won't spin. obvious fix is to get a xc-w but I'm not old enough yet, so I'm going to replace it, but id like to have some recommendations on linkage guards.