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Found 25 results

  1. Hello, recently was planning on greasing a linkage for my kx85. During my mission I got to around the second bolt and then realized I was going to have to take my entire swingarm off to take the bolts out. I had enough pain dealing with it and decided to abort mission and put everything back together. Tightened the front knuckle connecting bolt as much as I could and torqued one of the connection rods to spec. After all this it was back together and then I decided to see how much play was in it. If I attach my body to the top of the bike and pull up on the rear I can move it around 25% upwards. This isn't right sense before I got into this mess, doing that wouldn't even make it budge one inch. Anybody know what It could be? Plan on taking it to a mechanic to get suspension serviced but not having to pay for a linkage repair would be nice.
  2. 0 comments

    love this bike! I use it for the track and off road. perfect for me at my current speed.
  3. Hi. New member and all that..nice to meet u! Recently bought a very abused 1989 RM125. Disassembled the backend and have replaced all swingarm bearings and reinstalled it. Have replaced all bearings in the linkages including the spherical bearing that the shock bolts on to. Unlike other bearings this one was very tight to fit, but is in its correct position and is undamaged. The spacers that fit either side of this bearing do appear to now protrude by around 1mm either side? To make the connection to the lower shock now requires force! Once assembled my upper shock mounting is around 5mm out of alignment with the hole in the frame. All bolts are loose to not restrict movement. I've checked all photos of the bike taken before I took it apart and parts diagrams, but cannot identify the cause of the problem. Its almost as though my shock has grown whilst removed from the bike!! Ive now reassembled everything in reverse, but again cannot make the connection to the lower shock mounting without significant force. Any clues from the pics please? Does the position of the swingarm in my second pic look right? Almost feels as though it is hanging too low? Thanks.
  4. So I bought a 98 KX250 but a bolt fir the rear linkage vibrated out the guy said and I need a replacement. OEM costs about $30ish and the hardware store has a 9/16" bolt is about 25 thousanths smaller than oem with a teflon locking nut. Would that work or just damage the bearings?
  5. I have some play….not a lot, but more than I should with a link system in my 06 YZF. So i trace the slop to where the swing arm connects to the linage arm. Pulled it apart, bearing are good (well greased, move freely, no signs of rust) and discover that there appears to be some space between the bolt and the collar – not a snug, or slight drag fit. Inspecting both items, they have minimal wear and appear near new so I don’t think replacing them would solve the problem. Anyone have experience with this and if so, what was the solution?
  6. any ideas on how to remove front shock knuckle bolt there is no clearance what so ever, and I don't want to remove swingarm. -originally had a lot more said but I made a editing mistake
  7. If I remove the linkage and/or swingarm so that I can get my fingers in there, is it possible to apply grease to those bearings without removing the bearings? Or said another way: Is it worth adding more grease without removing the bearings? Also, presume my 2018 YZ250X has only cartridge bearings and doesn’t have any of those needle bearings that just fall apart?
  8. 0 comments

    Street legal in AZ, this 450SXF. Started with trail ready, kept going to full street legal. Easy to get plated in AZ. Pain in the ass and expensive to do all this on MX bike, but mad fun to have the 450SXF on the trails, open desert and bush. TBT suspension Rekluse Auto Core EXP Fastaway System3 Overbar Steering Stabilizer Fasst Flexx bars Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Headlight Rear LED tail kit from EXC with (exc rear fender swap) 70 watt upgraded stator Promoto Billet black kickstand Trailtech Striker digi gauge Seat Concepts low seat Moose Racing front fender dual sport pack Moose Racing rear render velcro cylinder pack Doubltake fold down mirror ProMotoB Billet rear rack - black Fastway linkage protection TrailTech radiator fan kit Bulletproof radiator guards Bulletproof chain guide/swingarm guards Ricochet skidplate FMF muffler Black Excel rims Cycra handguards Orange Anodized unbreakable levers OdiLock grips DirtTricks sprockets and Did gold series chain Warp 9 adjustable rear brake pedal with flexx Warp 9 gear selector with flexx Fastway Adventure footpegs Tm designworks chain guide Padiator - rear brake radiator
  9. I am getting back into riding dirt bikes after many years away and as m not familiar with the acronym P.D.S for rear suspension. I have gathered that it is a non-linkage type of suspension like used on KTM XCW models. While P.D.S. intuitively seems simpler, I am curious as to what benefit comes from a linkage type rear suspension. Thanks for your help. I'm really learning a lot from the TT forums.
  10. 2011 CRF450, when I lift up on seat there's play in the rear linkage but it's hard to pinpoint where's the issue. What's the fix?
  11. I was taking out my linkage to give it a clean and grease and then my needles fell out my bearing and this yellow stuff came out is it grease? Or something to hold the bearings in place 2016 KX 250F 20 Hours
  12. Hey guys. I have a 1996 rm 125 and I am taking apart the top end currently. Been riding the bike for a while and been thinking my Powervalve might be need to be cleaned because I really have to wait for the powerband to kick in. I took apart the linkage cover to discover that the actuating arm is fairly easy to move even with my finger. On other bikes I noticed that you really had to pull on the arm to put it back into place and it wouldn't turn with just your finger. I haven't taken it all the way apart yet as I might find more problems I might need help with but I have attached what I am talking about. Let me know if anyone has any info. Thanks!
  13. Hi! I was about to change my shock linkage bearings. However, a jammed bolt is struggling me... I was able to remove the nut and the bolt is turning freely. But I can’t remove this damm bolt. I know that the last owner put an imperial bolt, but It was supposed to be a metric bolt... I was wondering if someone has a solution about this? Thanks! I am a french canadian do maybe my english is broken lol
  14. Bought a CR125 the linkage has taken a crap and is not worth repair. I bought one off eBay.... same problem bearings are seized in linkage. Where do I go from here?
  15. I have a 07 kx250 2stroke. I acquired it in pretty bad shape.i can not find a replacment swingarm so I am going to try and fit a swing arm from a later model kawasaki 4 stroke. I also believe If i can make this fit it will help with the horrible frame geometry. If i get a new swingarm the linkage should drop the rear end 1.5 inch and give me 1° of rake angle for the front. Helping diminish the pogostick rear end and hopfully geta front end that can stick to the dirt. Can anyone give me some measurements for where your kawasaki swingarm meets the frame and engine. Also the measurement for the linkage connection. I havent bought the swingarm yet so any 1 that wants to take some measurements can you please give the year and the bike you are measuring... preferably 07-12 kx250f
  16. after pounding millions of rocks and logs my linkage is now fubar it's no longer round and pinching the bearing so it won't spin. obvious fix is to get a xc-w but I'm not old enough yet, so I'm going to replace it, but id like to have some recommendations on linkage guards.
  17. Hey guys, I ride a 1996 yz250, I had the motor rebuilt fully from the ground up and there is a clearance issue I am having with the powervalve. When I get the governor in place and get the clutch side case together it pushes the powervalve linkage up basically to where the powervalve is about 90% open. But when I push the powervalve linkage back to where the manual says it needs to be aligned it pushes the clutch cover out about 1/4 inch. My mechanic has taken the motor apart many times now and we cannot seem to figure out that is making this linkage arm extend up so far. Any help would be great, thanks in advance.
  18. There are several ways to lower your bike, from cheap to expensive. All have their advantages and issues. Warning: When you lower the bike, your frame and foot pegs go down. Do only as much as you have to, you will bash your skid plate and kick bad stuff that others will clear. The cheapest thing you can do is cut your seat foam. You can do this yourself, it's pretty easy, but you’ll need a very powerful stapler to put your cover back on. Take out 1" to 1 1/2" and you'll really feel the difference, in height 👍 and comfort 👎 There are many companies that sell a lower seat pad with a wider profile and more comfortable foam, I’ve used Seat Concepts and like it much more than when I just cut down my stock foam. You’ll notice immediately that when sitting you've just raised your bars and tightened up your knee bend. Some people don't like that, while others feel better balanced sitting lower into the bike. Also reasonably cheap and easy is a lowering link. I've used a Kouba Link on a couple of my bikes, there are several other manufacturers of lowering links out there. They’re very easy to install and don’t cost too much for most bikes. Usually several different lengths are available, but the more you drop the seat the more it affects your suspension travel. You’re changing the length of a lever arm in the middle of a very complex mechanical system. Here’s a quote from the Kouba site FAQ’s: “They put more leverage on the rear spring and make the rear more compliant on the small stuff but may require a heavier rear spring to help prevent bottoming if a rider is very aggressive.” In my experience the model that drops your seat about 1" is the best compromise, going more than that and the suspension tuning and steering problems can start to arise. If you’re not a real aggressive rider, lowering links are great. If you ride “race pace” then you might need to buy a stiffer rear spring. A new spring makes this mod a lot more expensive. You can take your suspension to a specialist shop and they will put spacers inside your forks and shock. These will restrict the overall length of your shocks, lowering your whole bike by reducing the amount of travel you have available. This service will require new fork springs, and can include custom tuning the suspension valving for how you ride. Cost runs from $500 to $800, and you lose some travel, but if you’re a trail rider with a harsh MX suspension, this mod can take care of both issues. I have lowered the suspension on 3 of my bikes over the years and never liked the ride as much as stock. I cut them down from 1” to 1 1/2” and used 3 different Well Known companies. Many riders post that they Love this mod, posting “Best Money I Spent On My Bike!” A different rear tire can lower your seat a lot. The typical 110/100x18 knobbie is a tall tire, racing has proven the need for that tall sidewall design. If you don’t race, a Dunlop D606 is a much lower profile dual sport tire, 120/90x18, that is still very aggressive in the dirt and DOT legal also. Some riders choose to cut their sub-frame. You cut out a small (+/-1/4”) piece of the diagonal strut of the sub-frame and weld it back together. Be Careful- too much and you will bottom your tire into your fender before you use full travel. The subframe and seat will now slope backwards a little; a friend did this to his KTM and it felt weird to me. The back of the seat got lower, the front not so much. Lower the bike too much and your kick stand will be too long. If you ride aggressively off road, lowering the suspension a lot can come at quite a cost in ride quality. And speaking from personal experience- I’ve had my feet swept off the pegs by rocks and in deep ruts that everyone else cleared on their taller bikes. And that shit hurts.
  19. 0 comments

    In depth review with pictures at 20 hours: /topic/1081271-2014-ktm-300-powerparts-review-at-199-hours-picture-heavy/#!F5QmP
  20. Took my lower link arm into a local shop to just have them pull my linkage arm bearings OUT because they can't be pressed through, and I figured since they do this stuff all the time...theyd be able to get them out clean. While I was droppin it off, I figured I would see if they could press my old stem bearing off and put the new one on. Turned out to be fairly inexpensive so I said just do both. Usually I would do my own, but figured it'd save me a trip (and gas) to my buddies who owns a 12T press. I left them my whole brand new All Balls stem kit and they were going to just pull out the lower bearing and seal needed. So, I go to pick the stuff up today. The parts guy begins to tell me how they pulled the upper one out to look at it, and noticed it was beat to sheit (pics provided). He said, they have seen this happen before with All Balls and its a manufacturing problem. I on the other hand have used a number of All Balls kits including the stem ones and never seen anything like this. Plus, and I am not 100% certain it wasnt there, but it just so happens that my stem is gouged in two places right where this upper bearing (smaller inner diameter) would have stopped and needed to be pounded on. As I said as best as I remember when cleaning the grease off the stem prior to drop off, there were no gouges on it. Judging by the previous owner(s), the linkage bearings were never touched. Well, after I got the arm back, the inside where the bearings seat is gouged to high hell and they gave me the bearing pieces back in a baggy. To their credit they said they were going to cut it and pull it out. I knew there was a risk in doing it this way of some damage to the part, which is why i figured if I took it in...itd be something they had done before since they are a yamaha dealer...Obviously they just took a screwdriver or something and went gun ho on it. I should have tried to get to someone beyond the parts guy while I was there, I am sure they will try to say I did it after I left. I wanted to get in touch with the seller on ebay and see if he has stuff dropped shipped through someone like WPS which would be a basic certainty they were NEVER opened or mount attempt made. And, contact All Balls direct to see if their story of manufacturers defect could hold any water whatsoever. IMO...its a straight up lie...because they think everyone who brings stuff in knows nothing....I just wanted to save the hassle since its close by and have them do it....big mistake its looking like. Siigh. I forgot the question, haha.. Anyone EVER had an All Balls part come out of the package looking beat like this? I mean to me its clear as day what happened to it.
  21. I've always cringed every time my rear linkage smashed a log/rock, and did not realize til today that there are skid plates for them! Anyone know where I can find one for my 520RS? I saw this on Cody Webb's bike. I only found them for KTM in a Google search. A point in the right direction would be appreciated! http://twostrokemoto...p-carousel-7733
  22. Hi, I might be dumb, but I have a 99 xr80 that needs a lift now I've heard of the Aussie lift but I don't have access to a welder would extending the rear swingarm linkage do the job? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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