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Showing results for tags 'LuggageAccessories'.
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My FIRST motorcycle at 46 years of age! Bought this 2015 Yamaha WR250R brand new from the dealer back in Oct 2015 with 4 miles on it. Most of my miles are street and highway but hit the dirt often and whenever I can. Simply love this bike! I'm currently setting it up for Adv Riding and it'll be seeing more of the USA and Canada this and following years. No trailers, no rear carriers.. just me, the bike and the miles we pass.-
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This is my second DRZ400. I loved the last one and this one is no different. I have had it less than a month, bought it brand new, it was a last years model so I got it even cheaper since they are already releasing the 2016. What a joy to own again. Great all around bike, perfect for my needs. -
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Great commuter bike, it's light, agile, maneuverable, and easy to control. It can be a bit underpowered at highway speeds with a headwind but I have stock gearing and my engine isn't broken in yet. The engine is really smooth even at high RPM's, and it has good low-end torque output. Fuel injection is a nice touch, the bike starts right up and you don't have to fiddle with a choke or fast idle switch. -
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2014 drz400sm - FCR39mx Bought this carb last summer, did the o-ring mod, fiddled with various jetting, never got the bike running to my liking, bogged noticeably when you crack the throttle quickly. I blame a poorly tuned AP system, but can't do much about it due to this carbs lack of AP tunability. Then one day I noticed that the throttle response has grown exceedingly shitty. I've had enough, I took off the carb and, sadly, had to resort to putting back in the stock carb. Poor old fcr was put on the shelf neglected for a few months. Today, I decided it was time, and began to dig in and find the problem, and boy did I. So can anyone give me some insight on how this could happen? Could it have been the o-ring mod? People say it puts too much pressure on the AP diaphragm, is this proof of that? If that's the case, what am I to do? With out the mod, the carb performs like shit. Hell, even with the mod it was never perfect. Someone please restore my faith in the fcr. Once I replace the diaphragm, how do I get it to perform correctly? How do I prevent this from happening again, while also getting the performance I'm after? Also, does anyone have any recommendations on where to find a knew diaphragm? I haven't searched yet, but it seems like it could be hard to find.
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Ten rack production run to fund my BMW engine build. currently finished with rack number 7. Once they are all finished they will get 2 part automotive grade prime and paint. Then they will be available in the classifieds and on fleabay. I feel like Henry Ford, I've gotten to the point where I've made templates to make things go faster 🙂 wish I had a spare rear subframe instead of using my bike...
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Hey folks! I have modified my stock brake pedal on my DRZ by making it as lightweight as possible while at the same time polishing it to make shine. I smoothed down all of the raised casting edges, drilled holes for lighter weight as well as countersunk the holes for a cleaner look, removed the "nose" on the lever, removed the stock brake lever tip as well as the lower brake lever tip bracket, added am aftermarket brake tip from a Husqvarna, and then powder coated the tip as well as the mounting bolt. I also shortened the spring mount hole to a smaller nub and coated the return spring. Took days to get it done. Now I am thinking about producing these in volume by CNC machining. I would like to know the opinions of others here on the forum about the rough draft here. Is this a pedal that anyone would purchase? Let me know. I will take all criticism respectfully and I thank you in advance.