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Hello, interested to know if there are any Magura Hymec wizards here. I recently replaced the clutch basket and plates (steels and fibers) in my YZ250 with all oem parts. While the bike was apart, my buddy pulled my clutch lever and after putting it back together, the clutch was not disengaging. Lever pulled all the way to the bars and nothing. I double checked that all the washers and other parts were in place and everything was there. I used the same number of plates that were already in the bike. Upon further inspection, the pushrod is not making contact with the pressure plate. I took the pushrod and lever arm out to inspect and everything looks okay. I ended up putting an extra washer in there between the pushrod and pressure plate and it works “okay” but I feel like it’s a bandaid fix and something else is going on. I tried adjusting the lever position with no luck. I’m out of ideas at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi, I'm new here and I have a stupid question that I can't figure out on my own. My ride is a 2002 KTM 520 EXC. Ok here it goes. I'm a pretty novice rider so please bare with me. Many years ago after the bike was purchased, my front sprocket got ground down and I thought it was a clutch problem. So my Dumas ripped out 1 of the 750 revloc clutches ever made and damaged it beyond repair. Since then I have put a stock clutch back in and made sure it's in correctly. The Magura clutch lever was also damaged so I replaced it. Now when I Bleed the clutch I get tension in the lever (I replaced the slave cylinder and the orings), now the fluid level keeps going down and I can't detect any leaks, it may be leaking I to the crank/clutch case. But the fluid keeps going down and I have no idea where its going. The bike has been down too long and ai just wanna ride again as there is no better feeling. Any insite would be much obliged. Thank you very much, have a great day and stay safe out there from the virus but keep riding hard.
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Whats up everyone. Just upgraded from an 09 Kawasaki KLX450R and picked up a 2019 Husqvarna FE 501 this weekend. I saw upgraded... but as it stands the Kawasaki runs a hell of a lot better. The husky just feels suffocated and muffled. Its ridiculous that you buy a 12k dirt bike and immediately have to fix it... My friend has been walking me through most of the things I need to do to get my Husky up to speed such as removing the reeds, getting an ECU, opening up the exhaust, and taking all the emissions garbage off. Can you guys please let me know what you think the best products are for the bike, and any instructional videos on how to install/remove the stuff. I am also wondering if the 2019 Huskys still have the same clutch slave issues as the 2017 and 2018s, does any one know if they fixed it? And are there any more common issues I should be aware of? Thanks for your feedback!!
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Rebuilding my master cylinder on my 2017 FC250 due to leaking fluid out the piston and I can’t seem to locate the circlip end to remove the piston. please reply if you have any suggestions.
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06 YZ250 with Carbon fiber gas tank, CF chain guide, CF silencer and pipe guard. Stock powerplant and carb, stock valving in suspension. 2010 YZ450F swingarm, linkage, rear wheel, axle and brake carrier. 2010 Honda CRF450 front brake. Miscellaneous titanium nuts and bolts and Ti rear axle. Applied Racing 22 offset triple clamps. Last weighed in at 211.5 lbs with no gas. -
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6 reviews
MAGURA HYMEC – an easy to install alternative to a mechanical clutch. This system replaces the clutch lever and cable – with a small lightweight hydraulic system for improved clutch control. The hymec ensures an easier operating pressure, a constant pressure point, no more cable adjustment and smooth clutch actuation to ensure the perfect take-off every time. Hymec significantly improves vehicle performance – it allows the user to feel the point where the clutch releases and actuates. This product has been developed over many years and been tested under the toughest conditions possible in the world of motorcycle off-road sport. It has been used by world champion riders who all agree as to the benefits but it is just as useful to the complete novice who stalls at the traffic lights. Due to demand magura now offers the hymec system for various road going motorcycles.- 6 reviews
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Really needs tuning with competition ecu to have a great bike and now they are very hard to find, I wouldn’t recommend even though I got lucky with original owner having these items. It has taken quite a bit of tuning to find a happy spot that starts well hot or cold, avoids flameouts and doesnt have touchy or twitchy throttle response. Needs a hydraulic clutch to get good clutch response and stock muffler is good uncorked with a gytr insert but again try finding one. I had one from years back 2006 WR250F and it fit perfectly, just lucky. The FMF mufflers are backordered and too loud anyway. If you like tinkering this bike is great, if you want a good running bike out dealer door, skip this one. -
20 reviews
The original hydraulic clutch that made cables obsolete Eliminates cables which fray and collect dirt and rust Self adjusting; delivers consistent pull, no more adjust on the fly Doesnt fade throughout moto Smooth and gentle pull offers better control of power and reduces arm pump Used by Andrew Short, Grant Langston, Jeremy McGrath and many more Available for nearly every model- 20 reviews
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About two years ago, I adapted a brake fluid specific Magura clutch master cylinder for left handed rear braking (LHRB) by connecting the new master cylinder directly to the rear brake caliper on my RevLoc equipped '04 KTM 525 EXC. This setup has performed superbly since then and provides excellent progressive two finger rear braking. The reason that I used the special brake fluid compatible master cylinder is that Magura claimed that the OEM mineral oil clutch master cylinder was not compatible with brake fluid and that the rubber seals, etc will deteriorate. In the interim, I have run across at least three long-term cases where the OEM mineral oil master cylinder has been successfully incorporated into the LHRB system without any problems whatsoever with the seals. Therefore I decided to give the OEM mineral oil master cylinder a test in my LHRB setup just for kicks. After thoroughly cleaning and flushing out the mineral oil from the OEM Magura master cylinder, the whole project took less than 30 minutes to complete including reverse bleeding with 5.1 Motul brake fluid using a syringe. The easiest and least expensive way to connect the stock master cylinder to the rear brake caliper is to connect the stock (flushed and cleaned) clutch line to the stock rear brake line via a "double banjo" fitting. These "double banjo" fittings are used on most street bikes to split the single front brake line to the dual front brake calipers and are available cheap from any motorcycle salvage yard. Just run the original clutch line in roughly the stock location along the left side of the engine. The connection to the rear brake line will be near the oil filters (in KTM's). Note that the double banjo fitting is not a single hollow bolt joining the two banjos piggyback, but rather it is a unit about 1 1/2 inches long to which the two banjos are independently attached. Also, the original clutch slave must be blocked off. It isn't too difficult to make your own block off plate, however RevLoc and I believe also Rekluse sell these block off plates. Results: The same superb braking.....perhaps even a little better since the project involved replacing a 10.5mm master cylinder with a 9.0mm unit, which provides increased "leverage" making two fingered braking now even easier. IMO, the LHRB is an essential complement to the auto clutch especially so for technical trail riding, steep downhills and tight switchbacks. Note that this procedure is suitable for all auto clutch equipped bikes that come with a stock hydraulic clutch master cylinder.
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