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I was out for a ride the other night, just puttering around the local back roads (what I mostly do) on my 2017 DRZ400S. The bike is stock with the exception of the 3x3 mod and JD Jetting kit (their recommended settings). The bike had been running very well. I had sorted out the few issues after doing the 3x3 mod and was enjoying the bike a great deal. Most of the way around the loop I was riding (only about 45km) I pulled off a side road onto a minor highway - no traffic, so I ripped up through the first few gears (bouncing off the rev limiter once) before slowing to about 90km/h. While downshifting for an upcoming traffic circle the engine did not "blip" like I expected, it sort of bogged. As long as the revs stayed up I was able to accelerate (modestly by this time). At this point I'm still beyond pushing distance from home. I managed to make the lights and didn't need a full stop until almost home. I stalled coming from a stop and found that if I rolled the throttle on "very" gently I could get moving and stay moving. At home in the driveway I confirmed the engine would die if the throttle was opened from idle with any sort of enthusiasm, and then seemed reluctant to start again. Before I start pulling things apart I though I'd ask if anyone out there had similar experiences. Bike is 2017 S, stock exhaust, 3x3 with JD's kit at their recom. settings - ran very well until that WOT rip. Gas is local Chevron 94. (though I did tank up at the start of the ride, just over a half a tank. Gas in tank was last fall's gas (94 again) with stabilizer added when parked for winter in November. I've never had issues with this suppliers gas before. Last bog issue was just after the jetting upgrade. I buggered the plastic needle retaining clip in the slide (a $110 lesson). A loosely bouncing needle isn't a good thing. At that time, the issue made itself known very soon after I'd put everything back together. I've put a fair number of kilometers on since fixing that issue so I'm not immediately inclined to think it's the same thing. (unless I "almost" bodged it again and it's taken until now for a weakened retainer to toast itself...?) I will check stator/battery/RR to rule out electrical issues before I pull the carb to see if it rattles. If you read this far, many thanks!
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So I was looking at my carb closely today and checking tightness of everything. The hoses are beyond brittle. They have no give and feel like hard plastic instead of the rubber. Their color is dirty yellow brown resin like nastiness. I searched online but couldn't find a hose replacement set by itself. I saw carb rebuild kits with them but I need only the hoses. Anyone have any suggestions? Oh....it's for a 2003 cr250r
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Hello everyone, I have a 2002 Honda CR250R. I am looking for a needle jet that will fit the stock mikuni carb. Curently the e-clip is set at the top groove of the stock needle jet (6BEY 30-74). I am looking for a needle jet that i can go up 2 grooves and still be somewhat in the middle. Looking for an easy way the lean the bike out at low speeds. I hope this makes sence...
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I posted here awhile back and people told me that I can buy a new carb and it would solve the problem...I'm looking for a cheaper method as a carb is like $200. My problem is the float in my carb. the level is too high and in order for me to ride it I have to turn the idle way down so the bike doesn't idle at all but it drives properly. If it is idling properly then the bike bogs bad when starting in 1st gear(getting too much gas) but the actual bike runs great, starts 1st kick blah blah. anyway was wondering if this would fix my problem, i mean for like $30 worth a try.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150582805145&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_500wt_749 Let me know guys, i would really like this bike running properly so i can hit the track!
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12 reviews
Square-type slide carburetors have increased air-flow metering at low engine speeds Smooth-bore design cuts down turbulence in carburetor throat for better throttle response and power delivery throughout the RPM range Provisions to install power jet included on 38mm TM series bodies are designed to accept Power Jet Kits, which prevents leaning out during extended full-throttle running Bore: 36mm Spigot Mount: 43mm Main Jet: 130 Pilot Jet: 12.5 Needle Jet: T84-13002 P-8 Throttle Valve: N/A Jet Needle: 9DZH6-50- 12 reviews
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Love the XR400R, powerful enough for me and after changing the spring and shock rate it is a great bike with lots of potential. I ride mostly single track in Thailand and I need low maintenance bike, that can easy handle extreme temperatures as well as extreme terrain, it both handle both very well -
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edit: TL;DR = does this bike have a fuel filter? I suspect nephew clogged everything up when he dumped a quart of oil into the fuel tank... End edit Nephew: “Hey Uncle! I wanna be a motorcycle guy like you!” Me: “Rad!” [fist bump] “Your dad ok with that? Tomorrow’s your birthday, right?” Nephew: “Yeah... as long as its not on the street... can I ride grandpa’s bike (a cherry 71 BSA 441)” Me: “How about we start you out on a super cool 125 first?” pics below... fast forward to the bike stalling out, dead, won’t even pop start. Nephew: “I just filled it with pre-mix, it can’t be out of gas.” Me: “What ratio did you use?” Nephew: “uh... whut? It said premix on it so I just put the whole quart in” Me: “Ok little dude... we’re done riding today... let’s go back the the truck and uncle will take care of this.” I drained the tank, pulled the carb, sprayed it out, put a JD red needle position #2, 420 and 32.5 in it (riding at 8800 feet). Starts on first kick... idles fine.. feels great at WOT. But it’s choking at ~1/2 throttle under load... like on a hill climb or whatnot... if I don’t ride the clutch and keep the revs high it bogs and wants to stall. Does this bike have a fuel filter? I can’t see one between the petcock and the carb... it’s got a Mikuni 38 on it. Bone stock 2020 TC120 new from the dealer. I don’t know what the bike felt like before... I never even threw a leg over it until now... IDK how it rode before and nephew is a gem of a kid but total newb and in his first afternoon on it I don’t think he even got into 3rd gear and certainly didn’t try any hill climbs so he can’t tell me how the bike felt before... IDK if it’s a pre-existing issue or a symptom of the knucklehead move... I’m going to run the Jarvis mods on it etc but FIRST I want to diagnose the problem... before I just start tweaking everything and create more problems than I solve... thanks in advance everyone !
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I'm cleaning my CV carb (Mikuni BSR36) off of my 2005 DRZ400S. The Slide Neelde Jet/Collar/Seat fell over when it dropped out. I don't know which way to put it back in? Which end will receive the slide needle first? A. The smaller o.d. end with the rounded opening? B. The fatter o.d. end with the beveled opening? . I've searched this forum a good bit last night, but didn't find this answer. If it is out there I apologize for the redundancy. I did see one thread asking a similar question but still couldn't figure out which end faced the slide needle. Nik
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I picked up a 2001 YZ that had the stock carb replaced with a Mikuni TM34 http://www.mikunipower.com/TM01.htm The stock jetting is vastly different from stock. The bike runs but I haven't had time to do any testing as of yet. I was hoping that someone has done this already and has some baseline jetting that worked for them.
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1 review
Designed to work with your original Harley-Davidson intake manifold, choke cable, air cleaner and throttle cables May be used with high flow air filters designed for the stock CV carb for better performance Installation instructions and all necessary hardware included Pre-jetted and ready to run, per application 42mm carburetor Must use stock cover Includes high flow backing plate and mounting hardware Requires stock oval cover and a Screamin Eagle high flow replacement filter- 1 review
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This street-legal 2004 XR400 is a bullet-proof, trail-riding tractor, with no radiator to bash in, valves that never need regapping, and after adding a Mikuni pumper carb, the perfect trail-bike that can be brapped over logs and rocks, and ridden in whatever gear happens to be handy. And just because I love it so much, I change the oil about once a year. Starts on first kick after pumping the starter to TDC and if I can remember not to touch the throttle at all (pumper carb easily floods engine otherwise). -
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It's a great bike very low maintance and extremely durable. Loads of torque. A little slow in the handling but still more bike than I can use. Seems to work best when moving at a good clip. Parts are readly available from the web or phone a lot of them cross to other manufacturers. So a good bike think ducati for dirt. -
Hello everyone, I have a new to me XR400R. It has a sputter from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle that makes cruising on the street impossible. It feels like it is perpetually just about to run out of gas where it will run very choppy. Bottom end will putt along fine especially in first. Wide open will pull hard and lift the front wheel. I have the snorkel out, uni filter, White Bros exhaust, and Mikuni Pumper. Needle started at second from the top when I got it with the sputter. I dropped the clip to third from the top. Then I tried all the way down. All the way down actually seems to have made it worse. So I may put the clip back up to the very top position and see how that goes. The main jet is a 130. One screw is stripped on the bowl so I haven’t been able to see what the pilot is but I am going to get some easy out to take the bowl off soon. I will probably go ahead and clean everything out in there and maybe attempt valve adjustments. I had an XR650L before but never touched the valves. So, if anyone else is running a pumper at sea level in very humid air such as in Florida, what are your carb settings? Also, is there anything else I should check to clear up this sputter? Petcock seems to flow well. Thanks in advance ?
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I bought this 7/19 brand new. Sitting on the dealer's floor for a long time and he wanted to get rid of it. $6000 out the door. I've de-smogged, mikuni tm40, DG slipon, FMF powerbomb headers, IMS tank, 15-50 sprockets, 40 sprocket I match with a 15 for extensive highway riding. All front sprockets are Fritz. Tusk handguards, cyclerack rear rack, uni filter, desnorkled, Sutton oil cooler, xrs only temp. dipstick, stage 1 hot cam,1 inch silencer in the DG. Got a jug bored to 670, wiseco 10.5 to 1 piston I haven't installed yet. Best bike ever!- 1 comment
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I think this could be a useful sticky. http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf This is a free tuning and carburetor knowledge manual that is very informative and easy to read. Most of all carb problems are addressed in this PDF file. Since a large portion of our forum topics are carburetor problem related, I think this could be very useful and lead more people to be able to help others, effectively making more question answerers as opposed to question askers, which is good for everyone. Just an idea...
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So far so good. Checked/repacked/replaced all worn bearings, fluids, tires, clutch plates, brake pads, chain, sprockets, bars, grips and levers. Replaced all incorrect size/length bolds, nuts, screws. Removed a ton of red loctite. Usually at the expense of the threads and or bolt, nut and screw! BAD TOAD!!! I want to convert to electric start. The parts are out there. Let me know if you have done it or know someone who has.