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Found 50 results

  1. thebob_za

    KTM 250 XC-W (2017)


    My previous bike was a 2016 KTM 250 XC-W. The 250cc two stroke just works for me, so it is no surprise that the 2017 model fits me like a glove. 6 hours done and the following things stand out: The motor - smooth and with almost no vibrations. It also needs less clutch work than the 2017 model and seems less prone to stalling. The size - the bike feels much smaller and compact than the previous model. I'm 5'8" and feel much more able to boss the bike around. The handling - the bike reacts very well to steering inputs and remains planted at speed and whilst going slowly The components - the clutch is light. The tires are good. The plastics are tough. The saddle is comfy. And the downsides: Suspension is soft. I'm 77kg (170lbs) without gear and I'll probably need the next stiffer springs The carb is unknown amoungst KTM owners and is not as easy to set up as the old Keihin. The reeds don't seal 100%. I sanded the cage and got the reeds to seal a bit better. Makes a big difference. So far I a really liking this bike. Some suspension work, maybe a Lectron carb and some vForce4 reeds and it'll be perfect
  2. SS109

    Kawasaki KDX220R (1998)


    I think I like this bike better than my fully built '90 KDX200 and my '05 Gas Gas DE250. Great power, and with updated suspension, it handles everything.
  3. I run UHD tubes with slime, and I've gathered over the years the hot set up seems to be Mousse up front the UHD tube in the rear as the rears don't hold up to high speed/heat. I did run into a group in Catavina that was running mousse front and rear, but that's slower going thru most of there. What is the current state of the art with respect to mousse manufacturers, front/rear, mousse vs tubliss, etc? I'm interested in both baja trail adventures and for racing the 500.
  4. I'm planning to run Tubliss to be able to lower the rear tire pressure and am wondering if I should run one up front or just go with the UHD tube. I'm not planning to run low pressure up front, and seems like some of the guys I've talked to prefer the UHD tube up front. Curious to hear pros and cons to the front Tubliss. I was thinking if I ran F&R then I'd only have to worry about punctures and would just have to carry a plug kit. Are there other advantages or disadvantages to running one up front?
  5. tjackson

    Yamaha TTR250 (2006)


    This is a great bike. It is comfortable, handles well, and has decent power. Not much is available aftermarket.
  6. Wrfrk

    KTM 450 XC-F (2013)


    Absolutely loving this bike, only thing I'd change is get a 6spd tranny...
  7. J_YZ2fittyF

    Tubliss Q

    I know there are a lot of threads out there about these, I have been reading all the ones I can find, lol. From a more specific standpoint... I have a new set of michelin s12 xc's. In fact, not even in my hands yet. I do have a set of HD tubes i was thinking of putting in there. But, the thought of neutechs keeps creeping up on me. Our trails have a LOT of sand. I would like to run pretty low PSI. However, there are some areas with some rocks, AND I may take the bike elsewhere this year where there may be a lot more rocks. I may try to put my MX51s back on at that point though. I wouldn't be worried about low pressure pinch flats if it was purely sand. However, the rocks, roots, logs, etc. etc. Anyhow, my big questions are. 1) Does corner handling with say 7-8psi improve or get worse? I know I see a lot about straight line traction etc. But if its a sandy corner, or even a slightly harder one...is there a "roll" effect that affects cornering negatively? Wasn't sure if certain tires handled this kind of thing better due to side wall strength. 2 ) I was considering just doing the rear, and putting the HD tube in the front with an extra rim lock in the event it goes flat i could make it back (or is this stupid? Lol). 3) Would I have excessive chunking/wear on the soft tire using again for example sake, 7-8psi. 4) Is it really THAT much of a traction difference from 10psi to say 6psi min...or should I just stick to around 10psi and HD tubes. I ran 10 on my wr last season. I was fatter, the bike was heavier, lol...same tire BUT 18" wheel. See now I have a 19" on my YZ, which could also factor into the pinch flat/rim damage at low PSI. Anyhow, I have been going back and forth in my mind for days, any help would be nice. Would like to order/install it asap when I get/do tires. thanks
  8. Sierra_rider

    Beta 300 RR Race Edition (2015)


    It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack.
  9. Chatted with the local shop about Tubliss and got the impression they are not fans and would really rather not deal with it. Not what I wanted to hear as I was really a fan of their 10 buck tire changes . . . those days are over with Tubliss So it's looking like I'm going to need to do it myself and want to get the best set up to eliminate as much frustration and cussing as possible. Last time I had a buddy help me change a tire, it was a real pain in the ass. I've got a couple large spoons and a small one . . . and was looking at this bead breaker/workstand thing . . . do they help? Any tools/tricks you guys have found along the way would be appreciated!!!
  10. Nuetech Tubliss Site I like the idea of a full rim lock. I had about three flats last season running harescrambles. They say slime works very well to help prevent flats. What do you guys think about this for the woods? Any reviews?
  11. Bryan Bosch

    KTM 450 XCR-W (2008)


    This bike rocks because KTM gave it so many letters. The more letters, the more horsepower. So, this thing has like 600 I think. Read my full review here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/reviews/product/42685-ktm-450-xcr-w/
  12. If you had to get just one would it be more beneficial to have it in the front or the rear? I am not having issues with flats, just wondering about the ability to run lower air pressure for more grip.
  13. FBRConcepts

    Yamaha YZ250X (2016)


    This Bike is the BEST Bike I have ridden in my lifetime. it inspires a tremendous sense of confidence at all speeds, has a great smooth powerband (for a two stroke), excellent fitting bike ergonomically (with a few minor tweaks for my 6'-0" height) and is an absolute joy to ride. I have never had as much fun on a bike as I do with the YZ250X. if you are looking for a bike for off-road Trail Riding/MX/HareScrambles, this bike does all of them well! I would strongly urge you to put it on your short list!
  14. Just getting back into dirt bikes but have been a long time member over at ADVRider.com and was wondering if anyone here has converted their dirt bike rims over to tubeless. I know alot of the guys over on ADVRider have come up with a system where you can convert your spoked wheels over to tubeless. I'm not talking about the Nuetech Tubliss system I am talking about their own system that is different than this. Here is a great read on the subject on advrider.com http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131165 Just curious if this system would work on the MX style of bikes like it works on the ADV type bikes. So if you have tired a different system other than the Nuetech Tubliss post up what you have done and how you like it.. That Tubliss system seems expensive and I don't know if that inner tube is necessary. This other route just seems better and easier for changing tires..
  15. 36 reviews

    It's not about going tubeless for the sake of eliminating tubes. It's all about the countless benefits of going TUbliss® that makes every rider and racer better, faster, and more in control. Wanna Ride? TUbliss® is, essentially, a high pressure rim lock and seal that secures the entire tire bead to the rim, completely eliminating the use of a conventional tube. TUbliss® allows you to run a low tire pressure (as low as 10 psi) which dramatically improves traction; especially important for enduro and baja racing. Since there's no conventional tube, the days of pinched tubes and flats are over! Even if you get a tire puncture, the bead stays seated to the rim. The 100 psi TUbliss® inner bladder literally clamps the entire bead and side wall of the tire to the rim, providing full bead lock performance around the full circumference of the rim. The seal is formed against the inside of the tire itself, not the rim, so it holds the tire firmly and makes the sidewalls stay upright and absorb the full impact, unlike bending and deflection you get with conventional tubes. Because of the design, TUbliss® will even work with the most dented, dinged, or tweaked rim. Tubliss Benefits - Improved Traction TUbliss® secures the bead so securely that it allows a low tire pressure for improved straight line traction without the risk of a pinch flat or tire bead slippage. Because Tubliss® means you can much lower tire pressures, traction is improved which is especially important for Baja and Enduro riders. You have no tubes to be concerned with, so lower pressure with Tubliss® means you'll never pinch a tube! Replace old technology with a stronger, modern and efficient system. Even if you get a tire puncture, the bead stays seated to the rim. - Virtually Flat Proof TUbliss® really is virtually flat proof when used with a tire sealant. Sealants can't work on tubes where holes in the rubber stretch and tear. With TUbliss®, your sealant works directly on the tire where it matters. Plus, the design of TUbliss® helps keep the tire seated on the bead and the sidewalls more stable, virtually making "flat wobbles" a thing of the past. Riders have reported riding longer and harder, completely unaware that they had a tire puncture. - Weight Savings TUbliss® also provides a weight savings of up to 3 pounds per wheel which instantly translates into less rotating weight and increases acceleration. Less unsprung weight allows significant suspension performance gains. Experts say that eliminating a pound of rotating unsprung weight is equivalent to dropping 5 pounds of static weight! - Runs Cooler Without the weight and friction of a conventional tube installed, tire temperatures are greatly reduced. This also eliminates tire pressure increases during the course of a moto. - Rim Protection TUbliss protects the rim from dings and dents by holding the tire firmly and making the sidewalls stay upright and absorb the full impact, unlike bending and deflection of conventional tubes. Installation Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrEFqFk1yo
  16. 2001 KX 250 for single track/cross country in the rocky high country of Colorado.. Which would you use and why?, Moose bibs, tubliss, or UHD tubes for the front tire?? Thank you for input Daryl