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Hi I own a 1990 Honda Xr80r that has no spark we replaced the coils and points and set the new points to what the oem manual says. It had little spark before we replaced the electrics so whats happening thanks What do you think is happening here??? Anything will help THANKS!

Wise DRZ gurus of Thumpertalk (Noble et al), your assistance please with a tricky electrics issue that now result in a NO SPARK condition. I own a Clymer manual, have read every forum post, watched every YouTube video, and stuck my multimeter probe in every orifice to no avail. Please forgive the long post but I don’t want to waste your time making suggestions for things that I have already tried. And no, I do not have a mate who has a DRZ who is happy to lend me his CDI to test. Background: I had to abort my attempt at the Welsh TET when my 30k-mile 2002 DRZ400S (UK), that I have owned since new, started running badly, correctly diagnosed as a camchain issue. I replaced the camchain (it was solid!), changed the ACCT for a MCCT and redid the timing (it had been still running with the cam lobes 90 degrees out!). The charging system wasn’t coping with running a GPS and when I measured the output it was a paltry 12.4V. I inspected the stator and there were a number of broken cable ties and it looked discoloured due to heat so I changed it. I also changed the Reg/Rec for good measure because I bought them as a pair. While I was at it I did the ‘Free Power Mod’ and was delighted to see that the charging system was now pushing 13.8V into the battery. I did a 100-mile test ride and it was like I had a new bike! The tale of woe: I then needed to do a quick dash to the top of Scotland to see my father, who had suffered a stroke. 300 miles into the journey (Perth) the dash started to flash, so I turned off the ancilliaries (GPS) and lights and plugged in a voltmeter to my 12V socket, which confirmed that the system was not charging. At 320 miles (Dalwhinnie) the battery got down to 6-7V and the bike died. On strip, I found that the 20A fuse holder in the ‘Free Power Mod’ had arced and blown the 20A fuse (cheap Halfords crap!). I didn’t have a spare 20A (I had forgotten the spare one in the battery fuse holder), so fitted a 10A into the part melted holder, bumped it and it ran so I pushed on. The 10A blew as soon as I got up to cruising speed, but the bike ran so I kept going. I bought a pack of 20A fuses at Inverness (380 miles) and it ran fine, with 14V going into the battery. I was now at risk of missing the ferry to Orkney so I pushed on hard up the A9. I had left the Voltmeter in, and was surprised to see the value climbing slowly. 14, 15, 16, 17 and then 18V was reached as I sprinted for the port. I knew this couldn’t be good, but didn’t have time to mess about. At 500 miles I needed to stop for a pee, so parked at the top of a hill (I was tired of bump-starting by now). I ignored the ominous smell of sulphur, dismissing it as an ‘agricultural’ smell. I bumped down the hill and after 200 yards the bike started running ragged and then all of a sudden it died violently, the engine stopped and the display went dark. On investigation the battery was at about 300 degrees C and my mercy ride was over. Thanks to the kindness of strangers I did get to see my Dad, but it resulted in a £300 plane ticket home and a 1000-mile round trip in the van to rescue the bike. The battery was toast, so I replaced it. I read that if the Reg/Rec doesn’t have an output it doesn’t like it, and as it clearly was no longer regulating, I replaced it. I replaced the ‘Free Power Mod’ using a much better fuse holder with thicker wire. I bought a new stator in case I had fried it, but resistance checks seemed OK so I held off fitting it. The bike wouldn’t start so I did a spark test and nothing. I replaced the plug – nothing. The only thing left to change was the CDI but “it is highly unlikely to be the CDI” and they are really expensive, so (as I am more mechanically than electrically minded) I read the forums, viewed the videos, bought a Clymer manual and a peak voltage tester and started fault-finding. Most readings were in spec, a couple were a bit off, a couple were a bit weird and the critical one was zero. My findings (I can’t do the stator output test because it doesn’t run): Test (note) [Spec] Reading New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.45V Battery (key on) [12+V] 12.87V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.15V Sidestand switch Up [0.4-0.6] 600 ???? (diode setting) Sidestand switch Down [1.4-1.5] open circuit ???? Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.3 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 14kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX Pickup Coil Resistance (Blue Green) [390-600 Ohms] 528 Ohms Signal Coil Resistance (Black White) [0.05-0.2 Ohms] 0.2 Ohms Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) [>5V] 2.68V ???? Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) [>1.4V] 0.35V ???? Stator charging coil resistance [0.5-1.25 Ohms] 0.8, 0.8, 0.8 Ohms CDI wires - Big plug White – continuity to coil Black White – continuity to earth Pink (neutral switch) Orange White (Ignition On) 13V (Ignition off) 0.16V ???? Green 180KOhms (to earth) ???? Blue Yellow CDI wires - Small Plug Blue – Green (Pickup Coil) 550 Ohms Black - White (Signal Coil) Continuity Neutral Switch Blue/Black White (neutral) continuity. Neutral Switch Blue/Black White (in gear) open circuit Battery Voltage was a little low, so I charged it. I also guessed that I had fried the coil, so I replaced it – still no spark so re-tested: New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.47V Battery (key on) [12+V] 13.3V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.7V (but goes down fast!) Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.6 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 16kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX The obvious problem causing no spark is the lack of 150+V coming out of the coil. Slightly disturbing was the fact that the Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) output was half the spec [2.68V instead of >5V] and the Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) was a quarter of spec [0.35V instead of >1.4V] but the bike had run happily off this stator. ???? But, following the logic that “it is usually the stator”, I changed it to another one (because I assumed that I had fried it along with everything else, and repeated the testing: New battery (fully charged voltage) [12+V] 13.6V Battery (key on) [12+V] 13.5V Battery (lights on) [12+V] 12.45V (but goes down fast) Ignition Coil Resistance (Primary) [0.1-1.0 Ohms] 0.7 Ohms Ignition Coil Resistance (Secondary) [12-20 KOhms] 14kOhms Ignition Coil Peak Voltage [>150V] 0 (ZERO) XXXX Pickup Coil Resistance (Blue Green) [390-600 Ohms] 538 Ohms Signal Coil Resistance (Black White) [0.05-0.2 Ohms] 0.2 Ohms Pickup Coil Peak Voltage (Blue Green) [>5V] 3.59V ???? Signal Coil Peak Voltage (Black White) [>1.4V] 0.45V ???? Stator charging coil resistance [0.5-1.25 Ohms] 0.9, 0.9, 0.9 Ohms CDI wires - Big plug White (Ignition Coil) – continuity to coil Black White (Earth) – continuity to earth Pink (neutral switch) Orange White (Start Switch) Ignition On) 13V (Ignition off) 0.01V ???? Green (Sidestand switch Sidestand relay) Blue -Yellow (TPS) 4.81KOhms Please help. Why does it not spark? Why is there no output from my coil(s)? I know the Pickup and Signal coil peak voltage is low, but it ran happily off the stator at those outputs before. It can’t be the CDI, can it? Could it be the CDI (rare, I know)? What have I missed? What am I missing? After 20+ years I am somewhat attached to the old girl, and she is a willing tryer despite the abuse and neglect I have given her over the years. I feel guilty but I have been looking at other bikes on Autotrader and eBay, but I would prefer to bring her back to life…

Is there any way to run a diagnostic test on a 2018 Rmz 450? I have no spark bike shut down on me in the air.

So last time i went riding, my bike (2006 KTM 400 EXC Dual Sport) was completely fine. No problems. Came home, parked it in the garage and plugged it into the trickle charger. Sat for about 4 days or so, and when i go to start it. Im getting nothing at all. So i did the spark test taking out the plug and putting it against the bike while kicking it and there is no spark at all. Tried 3 different spark plugs and got nothing on any of them. So does that just leave me with the coil being the issue? Anyone know why it just crapped out like that? completely fine then sitting it dies on me? Are there any other tests to do? Money is a little tight right now, so i dont want to buy a whole new ignition system. Is there any way to test the coil?

New guy here, I have a 28,000km 2005 DRZ400SM with the 3x3 mod and Athena Big Bore kit that ran for a couple months and started every time. While riding the engine stopped and wouldn't start again. Mechanic took it apart and found the stator was burned to hell because flywheel bolts were loose (loctite could have prevented this from previous owner or factory). So we replaced the stator but still wouldn't start. While trying to fix the no-start issue we cleaned the valves, replaced piston, replaced regulator, cleaned the carb, installed JD Jet Kit and still no start. The battery is running at 13v and lights, horn and blinkers all work and its trying to crank but will not start... So I took it into another mechanic and they said the starter is running in reverse. I asked them if the polarity was backwards and they still don't know why it's doing that. This is preventing a spark from the plug (which was working fine before the stator issue). Any ideas from the forums would be super helpful... I've put 1k+ into parts and service so far and I'm kind of done... Thanks guys,