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  1. 2007 KX250F w/ 269cc big bore Recently bought this bike and had a mechanic tune it up. Valve adjustment and some other basic stuff. He said the it was in great shape. It’s been riding like a dream, I’ve probably put about 10 hrs on it. Yesterday before a short ride I topped off the oil and started towards the trail head it’s rode about 3 miles and was cruising in 5th gear and suddenly lost power. Throttle was very boggy, almost unresponsive. Then the bike stalled. I took a look no and leaks or anything but then bike wouldn’t start from kicking or bump starting after that. Loaded it into the truck and got home and realized there was too much oil in it. So I drained it out and put the right amount of oil in and it still won’t start. Please help.
  2. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  3. I have a 2005 KX 125 two smoker and it has boysen engine covers on both sides. on the stock engine cover there's a sight glass on the actual engine cover but the boyson one that came on my bike when I got it does not have a sight glass so basically I have no sight glass but I need to change the transmission oil. what would you guys suggest to do? I was just going to drain it all and put in the 700 mL that it asks for but I don't know how accurate that would be. Any suggestions?
  4. 2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.
  5. Hey everyone! I ride a 2017 kx250f and I'm a pretty light rider(135 pounds with out gear) and my front forks are super stiff. I've tried to make them as soft as possible but I just can't get them soft enough. can someone tell me if changing the fork oil would make a big difference or should I go straight to changing the fork spring? Thanks everybody!
  6. Hi Everyone, I was going to post this in the 2T Kawasaki group; but, I think my issue is broad reaching so I'm hoping someone else may have experienced something similar. Apologies in advanced for the lengthy post but I wanted to be sure to include as much detail as possible to rule out some of the obvious answers/suggestions. Background: 2002 Kawasaki KX65, bought used with unknown hours. Rode it three times on a go-kart track and the engine shut off and kick start got hard (seized). Pulled the top end and found chunks in the cylinder head/piston and a crank with some minor vertical play. Decided to dive in and do my first full top/bottom end rebuild using a Wrench Rabbit (Hot Rods) kit and an Athena cylinder/head. After the rebuild I did a pressure and vacuum test which passed without any issues. I then filled her up with 0.5L of Mobil 1 15W-50 which I've run in my Honda XR100 and street bike Yamaha FZ-09 in the past without any issues and fresh Castrol 927 premix. Issue: After I got a few problems sorted out with the carb I was getting the bike ready for a trackday and noticed that the bike would spin the rear wheel relatively quick in neutral on a stand and when off and in gear I had trouble pushing it around with the clutch in, I could feel/hear the crank spinning indicating the clutch was not fully disengaging. When running, the bike does not stall in gear. I shut the bike off to further troubleshoot and that is when I noticed what looked like a bunch of tiny micro bubbles at the upward end of my oil sight glass. Immediately "water pump seal" leak popped into my head and seemed to make sense based on the clutch issues. I popped my radiator cap off and saw the level was the same and while running I wasn't getting any sort of serious bubbling and the coolant was not contaminated in any way (DI Water / Water Wetter). Bear in mind the bike runs fine, goes through all the gears and the clutch does not seem to be slipping at all. The bike sat for a few days until I got a chance to work on it again. I drained the oil that was previously "contaminated" and to my surprise it came out without any noticeable differences over slightly used oil. I filled it back up, same volume (this time with a measuring cup to avoid overfilling). The clutch issue persisted; but, I figured it was leftover contaminated oil on the discs. I fired it up, ran it up and down the street again and shut it off, sure enough the sight glass showed the same "bubbles" and the drained oil from the bike had a coffee creamer look further supporting the coolant contamination theory. However, again I had no loss of coolant or other indications of that being the cause. Upon closer inspection I noticed this was not water mixed with oil but rather a million tiny micro bubbles that seemed to be actively "popping" as the oil sat in the pan. The longer the oil was undisturbed the less bubbles and color there was. I read a few TT post talking about putting the oil in a clear container to look for separation so that's what I did. I couldn't see or smell any contaminates in the oil and as you can tell the oil is very new looking as it should since it was only run for a few minutes at most. I dumped the oil a third time and refilled with the same results. The bike sat again for a few days and the fourth time I switched to Shell Rotella T 15W-40. A very popular diesel/heavy duty engine oil which myself and millions of others have used successfully in motorcycle applications. Same thing happened again, after a brief ride up/down the street the bubbles were visible in the window again. After sitting in the bike overnight the bubbles are completely gone and there is still no detectable coolant loss. Before tearing into the cooling system I decided to borrow a tester from a friend. The cap vented around 16 PSI and held pressure around 13-14 PSI. The manual says 15-20 PSI is serviceable but I doubt a slightly less than ideal radiator cap could be causing my oil issue. I then proceeded to pressure test the system to 17 PSI, service manual says not to exceed 18 PSI and I saw no noticeable drops in pressure. I even actuated the kick start a few times in case the leak was only present when the water pump shaft spins, again no drop in pressure. While there I also did a compression test and got around 130 psi which is within the service manual limits. Lower than I'd expect for a fresh engine but also a cold engine that only has 0.5 hour run time on it. At this point I'm really not sure what else to check/try and want to avoid dumping anymore money into this almost 20 year old bike. Any help you guys can offer would be much appreciated! Thanks in advanced.
  7. First fork oil change on my 2019 390RR Race Edition @46 hours.
  8. Hey everyone! Hope you all are staying healthy and riding when you can on quarantine! so I just bought my first YZ It’s the2001 250F model. I just did the oil draining of the bike and oil filter replacement and now I’m stumped on where to fill the dang thing. Manual says the filler cap on left side of crank case. There’s none. Maybe aftermarket? There’s the timing cap but definitely can’t fit any funnel in. Everyone online says fill it up and also check oil pressure because it goes through the frame. I know how to loosen that bolt now I just need to fill it up. Thanks in advance
  9. Hi there everyone! I am confused on what 2 stroke oil (mixture) will work in my dirtbike. I have oil that says it works for air cooled 2 stroke motors, but will it work in a water cooled motor too? I tried researching this topic already, but can't find much on it. Thanks for all of your help!
  10. I am in the process of replacing my crank case seal on my 200 exc, however as I took the case off I noticed that their is a small hole in the back bottom chamber where the power valve lever sets. It looks Manufactured this way and would be impossible to drill a perfect hole in that location. Anyway anyone know why this is that way? It is a bit confusing as it would allow oil to get into the PV and into the Piston and burn/smoke/splooge like crazy IE same Symptoms as a Compromised crank case seal. Am I just over thinking it? Any input would be great thanks!! 1st pic is of light in hole 2nd pic is close of of pick tool through hole 3rd is the PV chamber and location of said hole.
  11. Anyone know what could cause this leak on the left side of the bike by the shifter believe it’s coming from the crankcase. I was told the gasket could be bad causing oil to be pushed out at that bolt. Any other ideas or anyone else have this problem? I bought the gasket but haven’t installed it yet.
  12. Hey guys I have a really basic question. I am just curious about the oil quantity to put in my bike after an oil change. The reason I am asking is because the manual says .64L (640ml) with an oil filter change which is what I have the last 5 times. I have never really checked the oil level real hard but after my last oil change I decided to and it showed up as being low. So naturally I added a little bit of oil until it was above the low line. In turn I now have oil leaking from my countershaft seal so it was obviously overfilled. Is .64L enough oil or am I missing something as far as checking the level?
  13. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  14. Hey I just bought a 2013 crf250x with no owners manual. I just want to know the oil quantities for the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have been told they fill from the same place, is this true? I thought engine oil filled on one side and transmission on the other? Thanks
  15. Hello everyone, I did my first oil change on my 16 wr250f today... Minus snapping both heads off the oil filter cap (now resolved... Lol) while attempting to use my fancy new torque wrench - all went well! So I did an oil + filter change, and added the required 850ml of 10w40 Kawasaki (I know I know, all I has on hand) synthetic oil. After getting everything back together and tightened up I started Tammy the Yammy up, letting her warm for approximately 5 mins or so in my garage. Everything sealed tight, no oil leak.... But to my surprise, a little bit of coolant came out of the overflow tube. Just a little squirt. I chalked this up to me letting the bike overheat while idling in my garage on this 22C day. After warming the bike up (it was on its kickstand), I stood the bike up straight - the oil window was just barely above the lower line ('a' line according to the manual). I rode the bike for approximately 20km after. Everything looked good, no more coolant spills and no oil looks. Upon returning home, I checked the oil window again - still at the same level. According to section 3-16 of the manual, the level should be higher, in between the upper and lower line.... What should I do in this case? When I drained the bike, I realllly drained it... Like, with the oil filter out, I leaned the bike way to that side getting all the last drops (bit of OCD I think lol). I definitely added the 850ml the manual says it requires. Thanks for taking the time to read this! Cheers, Ryan
  16. So I need to change (or just top up for now) my transmission oil and there's no motorcycle shops near me. I've read a lot of threads about ATF the F, but it looks like none of the spares shop stock it. Can I use AFT DX ii instead of type F until I find type F The owners manual recommends 4 stroke 10W-30 , if I can't use the ATF DX II, can I use normal car 10W-30. Please help, want to ride tomorrow
  17. Hey guys I’ve been having a issue with my bike and need help. I took it out riding and went through a river and the engine died and wouldn’t kick over. So I tipped the bike straight up drained the water and have flushed out the engine with 6 litres of oil and every time I start it up, it turns milky. Anyone know what’s really going on or what I can do.
  18. So I have a 2006 Kawasaki Kx450. Yeah, the bike is 13 years old, but has less than 100 hours on it, maybe around 50-75 by noe. It's pretty amazing shape for its age as a result. And maybe I'm being paranoid, but I've read that the oil pumps on the Kx450f's and Kx250f's from years 2006-2009 have a tendency to fail. My question is, do they just completely stop working all at once and grenade your engine? Do they slowly deteriorate from wear and tear and lose a little more oil pressure every ride? How would I check and know for sure what my oil pressure is like and if I should be worried? And lastly, does anyone manufacture an OEM oil pump, or aftermarket solution that's more safe and reliable for my engine? Like I said, maybe I'm being paranoid but i really would hate to ruin my favorite ride over something avoidable with preventative maintanence. ANY HELP, KNOWLEDGE, OR ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED
  19. My 2005 has had an issue since I got it this summer, where oil is puked out of the crankcase vent. The bike is not losing compression, and it runs well, it just always leaves a puddle of oil on the ground, because when I am kicking it, and when it is idling, it shoves out out of the vent tube, and onto the ground. I have thought of everything, and then I noticed that there is reed valve on this bike. If that valve were to be functioning incorrectly, could that cause my issue? I saw someone ask the same question on a forum from many years ago, but it was never answered. "I'm wondering if that reed were bad, would it allow oil to blow out the breather on an otherwise healthy engine???? I have a buddy with this issue." Thanks.
  20. I'm sure this has been asked before. Doe the 83 xr350r have separate oil for the trans.? I have a manual, but it is as old as the bike and missing a page here and there, and not a lot of info on the web. When I drained the fluids for a rebuild it seemed like regular oil and gear oil ( two different drain plugs).
  21. Rather than debate, i just took a simple poll in a couple fb groups. I found it pretty interesting that both groups used basically the same oils the most and that Rotella was so prominent. A general 2 stroke group and a YZ250 group. Figured id just share for general interest.
  22. Hello all. Just got a new(to me) 2014 KTM 450 exc and when I purchased it it was covered in chain lube but I now know the guy was trying to hide an oil leak. To say I'm pi**ed of is an understatement, but it's my own fault. It appears to be coming from the side sump bolt near the front sprocket. I'm just wondering; are these bikes supposed to have a copper washer behind that plug? Because there isn't one. If the above is not the case then could anyone tell me what it may be? Doesn't appear to be from the mid engine gasket but I don't know. It takes literally a day or 2 to build to one drop. I plan on taking it out and looking but if a washer is required then I'd rather have it handy. No oil on the sump/frame guard either but it's bugging me and I worry about oil leaving the bike. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ??
  23. Just bought a used bike, noticed the oil was black, did a complete flush and change with filter, then rode about 3 hours worth, checked my oil sight glass and it was absolutely empty, even tried tipping the bike, and I couldn't see any in the window. I don't see any oil leaks, the exhaust is a little blue, but an entire quart in 3 hours? Any ideas what could be causing this or where the hell my oil is?
  24. NO HATE OR SMARTARSE. Hi all, i have recently bought a 2003 yz250. I have gotten it freighted so i have only looked at photos and a video of a start although, those don't prove much. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help me please do. If you have had the same year or similar and model please tell me what you ran? PLEASE NOTE - I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA. 1. Because i have gotten it freighted, the fuel has been drained. A mate wants to test the gears and some other stuff, so i am going to buy 3l of fuel to test, what ratio should i mix at and what fuel and oil should i use? 2. I'm riding in the bush with a couple of mates on 250 2 strokes, there will be quite alot of dirty,dust,rocks etc, what would be the best air filter and oil? 3. I wouldn't consider myself a pro rider but, I ride fairly hard, I want the bike to be healthy and in good condition. I don't want to replace the top end for at least 40+ hrs. What would be the best fuel to oil ratio, and what would be the best fuel and oil to mix with? 4. I plan on doing a top end, service, power valve and carb clean and maybe add v force reeds (if gears and the other stuff are good) Watched a couple youtube videos of top ends and they look easy, power valve looks a little hard but i think i can do it, have never cleaned a carb on a 250 so not sure what to do. If i added vforce reeds would it need to be jetted? (Don't know how to jet either) Think that is it for now. I LIVE IN AUSTRALIA.. Thank you
  25. So I'm trying to get my old dirtbike running and I replaced things as needed but I'm wondering if I can just mix the gas manually instead of using the auto oil mixer thing on the side. If so do I need to cap off the oil mixer for it to start?
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