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Found 12 results

  1. Heat is the enemy of dirt bike and ATV performance, but simple steps can be taken with CV4 thermal protection products to avoid running into bigger problems. Radiator Hoses Not all radiator hoses are created equally. This is never more apparent than when your bike’s hose tears, cracks, leaks or collapses. Odds are, your bike is equipped with old-fashioned OEM rubber hoses, which do a menial job. Chances are, your bike still has OEM rubber hoses, which can crack, tear, and deteriorate. Reliable hoses are a key component in protecting your engine against the dangers of overheating. Fortunately, advancements have been made in radiator hose technology. Silicone is the new go-to material for hose construction. CV4 has taken it a step farther by utilizing the highest-grade silicone material available. Not only does it improve heat and abrasion resistance, but it also makes assembly and disassembly much easier. When you’re dealing with coolant temperatures around 300 degrees Fahrenheit and extreme pressures, it’s peace of mind knowing that the radiator hoses will hold up. CV4 radiator hoses are made of the highest-grade silicone, providing consistent performance and protection through countless pressure and temperature cycles. CV4 is available directly from Wiseco. Want to find radiator hoses for your machine? Call Wiseco today at 1-800-321-1364 Over 2,000 years ago, Greek mathematician Archimedes stated, “The shortest distance between two points is a straight line.” He wasn’t talking about radiator hoses, but the rule still applies. CV4 offers their hose kits in standard and Y-kit configurations. The latter has joints formed into the hoses, which reduces the number of fittings and clamps necessary. Less turns and twists for the coolant to navigate results in improved coolant flow and efficiency. Not only that, the ‘Y’ design helps protect against leaks. Note that the Y-style hose kit costs slightly more than the standard design. Y-kits from CV4 have joints and intersections molded into them where OEM designs would normally have metal joints and hose clamps. This helps reduce chances of clamp failure and coolant leakage while improving coolant flow. Don’t wait until your radiator hoses start leaking or collapsing. Father Time always wins, and your OEM radiator hoses are not exempt. It’s important to also understand that when one hose gives up the ghost, the others aren’t far behind. Improve the performance of your bike with a CV4 silicone radiator hose kit. While you’re at it, pick up a new pack of CV4 radiator hose clamps. They are specifically designed for radiator hoses, clamping the hose efficiently without digging into and tearing the hose material like some standard clamps. See the CV4 products overview on Wiseco's site here. Many OE style clamps will tear into hoses and compromise their integrity. CV4 hose clamps are designed specifically for radiator hoses and allow for repeated assembly and removal without causing damage. High Pressure Radiator Caps Most riders don’t understand the importance of a radiator cap. They remove it every so often to check the coolant level before riding, but otherwise don’t give it much thought. From a design standpoint, a radiator cap is a thing of beauty. Under the cap is a coil spring located between two rubber seals. You don’t have to be Bill Nye “The Science Guy” to understand that water, or coolant, expands as it heats up. That creates pressure inside the radiator. The radiator cap’s job is to keep coolant in the radiator and flowing throughout the cooling system. If there’s too much pressure, the fluid will force the coil spring into the cap. When that happens, incredibly hot coolant will find its way out the overflow hole between the rubber seals and end up on the ground. When the pressure rating for a radiator cap is exceeded, coolant will flow out of the overflow, lowering pressure and coolant boiling point. CV4 caps aim to avoid this. While this is designed to protect cooling system components from excess pressure, lower pressure in the system also means a lower boiling point. The key is to find the happy medium between pressure and boiling point. The CV4 radiator caps are equipped with a stiffer spring rated to withstand a higher pressure (but not high enough to cause damage), meaning the boiling point of the coolant in your cooling system will be higher. A higher boiling point is key for efficient cooling, as boiling coolant is not effective in reducing operating temperatures. With a CV4 high pressure radiator cap, the coolant stays where it’s supposed to–in the bike. This is inexpensive insurance for your cooling system. A radiator cap rated to withstand higher pressure helps protect your coolant from boiling and allows the cooling system to continue efficiently managing the temperature of your engine through a wide range of conditions. Thermal Barrier Film Not all performance can be seen. Case in point, many of the world’s top race teams rely on thermal barrier film to keep their fuel cool. Typically applied to the underside of the fuel tank, as well as around the fuel lines, the film resists heat that is given off from the engine. Sometimes problems out of sight can do the most damage. CV4 thermal barrier film is commonly applied to fuel tanks and fuel line to prevent fuel boil. Maintaining cool fuel temperature is especially important during the hot summer months and/or when riding at higher elevations when the boiling point decreases. Either factor will cause your bike’s fuel to lose its combustibility, which has detrimental effects on engine performance. Fortunately, CV4 literally has your bike covered. Choose between two heat resistance ratings. The silver film protects against highly elevated temperatures that reach up to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. The gold film protects against temperatures up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, with the added benefit of reducing temperatures by up to 36 percent. Simply cut out the film in whatever desired pattern you choose and stick it wherever heat is a problem. CV4 thermal barrier film is offered at two levels. Silver protects against up to 1200°F and gold protects against up to 800°F, achieving up to a 36% temperature reduction. Temperature Strips It would be nice if your bike could verbally communicate with you when it’s having a mechanical issue. Fortunately, there are ways to diagnose the problem. Performance changes, weird sounds, odd smells, steam and blue smoke are indicators that something is amiss. Before ever getting to that point, it’s smart to monitor heat emitted by the engine, radiators, shock body, and other vital areas. CV4 adhesive-back temperature strips are the solution. CV4 thermostrips can monitor temperature just about anywhere you can stick them. Here, Geico Honda uses one on the left-side radiator of each of their race bikes. Available in a three pack, they are designed with incremental temperature monitoring sections that change color once that temperature is reached. Each strip shows a temperature reading from 149 degrees to 248 degrees Fahrenheit. Installation is easy. Thoroughly clean the desired mounting surface, peel the adhesive backing off, and stick wherever desired. You’ll get an accurate reading every time. Stick 'em on and the color will change when that temperature is reached. Simple and cheap protection for your expensive machine! Universal Vent Line Kits Chemicals, fuel, time and environmental factors are the chief culprits for vent line destruction. For these reasons you may notice that the vent lines on your carburetor, gas cap, radiator overflow, and/or water bypass lines crack or break. Vent lines are important for proper operation, which is why these oft overlooked items shouldn’t be ignored. CV4 saves the day with their universal vent line kit, which fits a wide range of different model bikes. Made from pure silicone and available in a plethora of popular colors, the line kits are highly flexible for easy installation and removal. What’s most impressive is how the vent line kits are rated to withstand temperatures up to 420 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s a lot of heat! Please note that the vent kits are not designed to replace fuel supply lines. Simple things like vent line can be overlooked after extended periods of time and end up hardening and cracking, causing annoying issues. CV4 vent line helps keep the simple stuff handled, plus, makes it look good.
  2. While riding my '16 XR650L around town the other day, it started to cough and sputter. I glanced down and saw the oil temp was creeping over 275F (XRsOnly dipstick). Yikes!!! This is very unlike Big Betty who's usually very reliable and never runs over 240F. I pulled over to let it cool, looped home and hosed out the oil cooler unit, and went back out to do a low RPM ride around the neighborhood. Should be fine, right? Nope. The temp dropped temporarily when I restarted the bike, probably as a result of the hose-cooled oil circulating back to the steering head. Good sign. But after just 5-6 miles of easy riding, it was back up to nearly 275F. Well, crap... I check the pickup filter in the bottom of the front down tube every other oil change and it's always clean. I checked the square screen below the clutch pack last fall when I replaced the clutch. Clean. I typically use 10w40 all year, full dino juice, not synthetic, new oil filter every time. Magnetic oil plugs plus magnet on the oil filter. Happy oil is critical to the function of an XR650L, right? Last year while riding the TAT, we cranked WFO across Oklahoma at 110F with absolutely no problems. I climbed the mountains in Colorado (13k foot elevation passes) with no issues. We crossed the desert southwest with no issues. 5000 trouble-free miles in the loaded and trusty XRL. Go for a little early morning fun in the woods and the trouble starts. Mods: Sutton oil cooler, Acerbis 5.8 tank, '03 carb w/ Dave's mods and slightly larger-than-stock jetting (don't ask, I can't remember), UNI air filter, no air box mods and stock header and exhaust pipe. Ideas??? Thoughts???
  3. So, I took my 03 yz250f out riding for the third time since I've bought it. I never had any overheating issues till today. After riding it around for a bit I stopped and I let it idle (which btw has a hanging idle) for around 1 minute. Out of nowhere it started spitting coolant out of the radiator and the bike was super hot. I dont know if it being 100 degrees outside and idling might have affected it or my jets are dirty which is causing it to idle high and run hot. Ive also noticed that the gas is boiling inside the 5 gallon desert tank that sits directly on top of the carb and pipe, and it remains boiling all the time I am riding. The bike does not overheat or spill coolant when I ride it. If It starts spitting coolant at idle and I ride around for a bit right away, it stops leaking. I opened the radiator cap and revved the bike, the coolant was spitting out and bubbling, however, with the cap on the overflow line does not spit any coolant or even air for that matter. If it overheats at idle, the coolant comes out of the radiator itself and not the hose. Could it just be these bikes do not like idling for more than a minute or is my head gasket blown? Why does the gas boil all the time? Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thank you very much!
  4. I have a 2005 Husqvarna TE 450, the bike runs very hot under normal riding conditions and boils over constantly. I added higher pressure cap and a coolant bottle so I can recycle the coolant after a boil over. The bike lean pops but I have increased the pilot jet a few sizes so I'm not sure if thats my problem. The engine case gets very hot so I am curious if I might have a blown head gasket. How should I go about diagnosing this? Also any other suggestions would be appreciated! I have cleaned out the radiator and put in new engine ice and bled properly. Maybe water pump?
  5. I bought my bike brand new a 2018 ktm 250xcw. I love this bike but here lately I've been having some issues with it. I was at a hare scramble and my bike over heated and boiled over blew coolant out the house on top the head I didnt think anything of it cuz it was a mud race everyone was over heating.. fast forward some time and I've noticed it's been overheating more often. Seems to happen when I'm stuck behind a slower rider or on some real tight technical trail also has happen when climbing hill climbs. The last time it overheated we were in Georgia riding highland park. All my buddy's hit the same trail and same hill climb but my bike was the only one 2 boil over and this time it blew out of the radiator cap. When I got home I changed the oil noticed it was a little milky so figured the water pump seal was bad went ahead and replaced it with a hot rods rebuild kit and a aftermarket impeller for better circulation. I run engine ice and I check my levels pretty regularly.. debating if I wanna get a fan kit for it but I dont wanna mask a problem I'd rather find the issue.. I find it odd that none of my buddies are overheating like me. Also I have 120 hrs on it now and I did a top in at 80hrs the cylinder and piston had normal wear. Any ideas would help me out greatly I'm not super mechanically inclined so I'm scratching my head here lol
  6. Hey guys brand new here. Just picked up a orion rxb250l dualsport on wednesday. I did one test ride for about 15 minutes before letting the bike sit and then another one about an hour or so later. Just yesterday I took the bike out for a long ride with more variations in throttle and load. Keep in mind I was probably riding for about 40 minutes or so before this happened. Coming down a hill the bike started to bog down and it felt like it was running out of gas. So, I immediately reached down and flipped the reserve switch and still it was bogging down. Luckily, I was riding down a hill so next thought was to choke it up just to see what would happen. immediately after going to full choke the bike gets power back. Now once i reach the bottom of this hill (massive hill) it idles for about 5-10 seconds then dies and i can not get it to idle for the life of me. At this point i have discovered that the bike has plenty of fuel (in the tank and in the fuel line) and it turns over just fine. It sounds like it wants to run as well. About 3 minutes go by and i was able to get it started and running on full choke. turn around to drive it up the hill and i make it about a mile and then it dies on a main road so i have to pull off. again i wait about 2 minutes and then it fires back up and i make it home. Earlier in the ride before this happened the engine was putting off a lot of heat, A LOT. so much heat that i had to kind of angle my leg away while riding just to cool it down. and yes i'm aware of how much heat air cooled engines produce I have an 85 xl350r that spits oil on to my leg and even that didn't feel as hot. I'm not sure what happens to air cooled bikes if they over heat so I don't really know what this could be. Any thoughts/opinions would be much appreciated. Also found this tube running from what looks to be something I've never seen before that ran back to my air filter. is this to keep the airfilter oiled or something? never seen this before and from factory it was routed right next to the engine and melted the tube! pics attached below. There is also air pulsating from it, i ran the bike and put my hand over it to test. No idea what it is.
  7. Hoping someone can help me. I have a 2018 250X with minimal mileage. Lats week it was really hot and the bike started to overheat. Could not tell when riding but when I stopped you could hear the coolant boiling !! Took 20 mins to cool off.. This week I went riding and no issues (was a lot cooler out). I noticed tonight some coolant was leaking under the parked bike but hard to tell where from. (Will remove some clutter to try and get a better look). I also happened to open my oil cap to view inside (luckily I did) Oil is thick white. I can only assume that Coolant is also leaking into me engine. Only a few possibilities, but I was thinking the "overheating" must of blew the seal in the coolant pump, causing oil to enter ?? Thoughts? I saw on another post that the YZ's have a bleeder which should alleviate that (which would explain the leaking coolant BUT not the coolant in the engine) Thanks in advance Chris
  8. Was out riding today with my buddy. We got into some water and a little mud. Nothing to crazy. Looked down and the 701 engine light is on. I hit the kill switch and she started blowing coolant out of the overflow hose. Let her sit a bit start her up and the fans not turning on. Took her apart to inspect fan and even the bolts were hot. I coasted her 3km down a mountain. I filled her back up with water. She took 500ml. Any ideas. Keep in mind she boiled over twice and I never seen heat light or fan turn on. Thanks for any help. She's a 2017 with 1500km on the dial. Bought her brand new.
  9. Hello, Having issues with my 2001 DRZ400 and wanted to see if anyone could offer insight. Bought a lemon and replaced the top end, water pump, and radiators. The bike continues to overheat even at idle. It's got a vapor display and the bike will climb up to 220deg. The bike sounds like its idling high so I bought a 2001 idle speed sensor; doesn't seem to have any positive effect so it's currently disconnected. Anyone have any suggestions where I should diagnose next? Thanks, AJ
  10. Hey guys, I was riding with my son when his ttr50 died. I didn’t see it as I was a bit ahead of him, but he said it was like the battery died, he lost all power and it coasted to a stop. When I got there, I tried starting it, but it wouldn’t even crank. No noise, nothing. The next day I told him to get it off the trailer so I could look at it. He tried to start it out of curiosity and found he could start it. I walked outside and started it myself like nothing ever happened. I thought it had overheated, but when I pulled the plug, it showed signs of being to rich! Any ideas as to what would cause this? I just cleaned out the jets and carb bowl. As far as I know, the bike is bone stock and we are riding around 1860’ elevation. Thanks!
  11. *Update* Just found the wire connection box to what i believe is the stator wires is loose. It is definitely the cause of the leg pressure on that side causing the bike to die. I tapped the box when bike was running and it died...but could weak/loose connection be causing other issues? 2019 RPS Hawk 250 Bike seems to get too hot within an hour or so of riding *edit, also died at a stop once and couldn't get it started until I waited about 15min. Any help is greatly appreciated, I know people on here always request as much info as possible so, known symptoms/issues worth sharing are... WOT at max rpms results in rapid but minor sputtering... After bike gets hot, at a stop when I give the initial throttle turn I can hear a singular metal ting but then it is gone... When i apply pressure to left side panel with my leg it begins to bog down...(odd but true) Right side float is very slightly damaged on the tip opposite of the needle (no cracking or holes that i saw, just looks slightly smushed into itself?) Oil drain plug was overtightened and broke the washer like ring that was a part of the bolt head (idk the name) leading to a BARELY noticeable leak. Oil levels don't drop at any discernible rate. Standard shain has stretched alot but i have adjusted the wheel base to keep it at proper tightness as needed. Air bow inlet has been cut to allow greater airflow similar to this without the wire mesh he added 2019 RPS Hawk 250 with all stock parts with the exception of... I only use 93 octane gas Changed the stock 98 main jet to a 110 of these (fuel screw 1.5 turns out) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017SJO94S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Z63Q4XVP2N2RDA4H3CG0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Changed stock spark plug to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSGWZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZBCZ2HZF7Y4WYXYMD1X1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Current oil im using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IAV69O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PSC5CEMCBSBJ8YQ2DJPE
  12. Anyways so I got a 1985 xr200r RFVC, and I have heard that the oil really overheats and in some cases people have had their bike (Rarely) go up in flames, however I don't want to take any chances and I heard that there is a way to put on some sort of oil cooler... How do I do it??
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