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Found 31 results

  1. Hi all, I am needing some help with my 2003 yz250, i have posted a thread up a couple weeks ago about my bike bogging and having no power. I've listened to everyone's opinions on what is going on and have tried to fix it. Now, i'm needing some help with the cylinder and head, jets, and the power valve. 1. I am going to replace the reeds with power reeds, Will i have to rejet or anything? or can i just throw them in and ride? I'm doing a fresh top end so want the bike to be running good when i first start it. 2. I bought new jets cause the old ones were blocked. The new ones are the same size as the old ones, i can just throw them in and the bike will run the same as if the old ones were still in? or will i need to mess around with something? 3. Is the cylinder head in good shape or bad? Is the cylinder in bad shape? If so, what is the cheapest way for now and for future rebuilds to fix it? What type of cylinder is it? Sleeved?, nikasil? 4. The power valve looks like it has alot of oil/carbon in there, how do i clean it and what do i clean it with? As seen in video, when i pull the power valve to me it stays like that, i thought it is supposed to go back in?
  2. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone knows how to take the powervalve governor out of a KTM/Husqvarna 85. I’ve bought a new spring for it and I don’t know how to fit it, I’ve heard the spring is in the same spot as in the bigger KTM’s but after I take the cover off the bolt underneath (pictured) just keeps turning. Does anyone know? Thanks heaps.
  3. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  4. I have the cylinder completely apart and the right side power valve is stuck...it won’t come out. The left slid right out. I don’t want to damage anything. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it but still stuck (maybe that’s not the best for carbon). Thoughts?
  5. Hey everyone, I just got this Yz250 about a month ago and I bought it with what the owner called a “leak” from the power valve. I think it just came from him using the incorrect thickness on some gasket or seal but it really didn’t affect the power at all. I’ve ridden the bike a good couple times and it’s been awesome. However, after washing the bike, I noticed the bike sounded/ran a little odd. It felt like every time I pulled the throttle there was like a second blip that came with it, and I feel like the bike is plugged or something and it’s not as loose as it was. I wasn’t yearning that crisp sound at when I revved it like normal. I’m assuming that I got water into the power valve somehow through that leak cause there was grey sludge coming out of the drainage hose after riding it a little last night and today. If water did enter is this a major detrimental problem, or is it going to be ok if I just get that leak foxed out and the power valve cleaned out? Thanks!!
  6. I got a question. I own a 2016 KX 85. It ran AMAZING after it first bought it used and was in beautiful condition and I picked it up for only 2500. I was riding when all of a sudden it started bogging down right before the power band.i don’t think it’s jetting because the bogging just turned on like a switch and it was running perfect before it. The bike was like that for a month. Apparently the previous owner never oiled the filter so it was dry as a rock and was falling apart and got sucked into to the intake so I’m guessing my power valve is gummed up or stuck close or open. I was riding one day with the bog issue and about 35 minutes of riding I shut it off to take a break. Came back 20 minutes later and it would not start.I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the carb,checked the reeds,and tried hill starting it but nothing. When ever I try to hill start it I can hear it trying to crank and It starts for like half a second but then dies.I don’t remember if I left the fuel petcock on but what I’m guessing is that I flooded the engine and tried starting which messed up my electronics.The reason why I think I flooded the Engine is because when I took off the reeds the intake manifold and reed were soaked in gas.I heard that starting the engine while flooded can mess with a woodruff key or your CDI or something. There is spark coming from the plug though.And yes I mix the gas with oil at 32:1 cause I’m in the pipe all the time.This is my first time owning a 2 stroke.Any answers or tips.
  7. I have a 2012 yz125 and when I stop on the trails for a couple seconds with the clutch pulled in and it still running, it will start to bog before the powerband until I give it a few blips of throttle or hold the throttle where the powerband should be for a few seconds. After its going and I don't stop for a minute or two it works perfectly normal. I am thinking its the power valves but you can tell me if you have any other thoughts. Here is a video of what it exactly looks like when it happens. Its not my video. 52 seconds into the video it shows
  8. Ok so I just purchased a new cylinder jug and a new top end. And now I’m having trouble with my powervalve. The first pic is the only way I can get it and the second pic is how it’s supposed to be. Will it be possible to fix without having to remove the cylinder jug? Also I just realized that my old shaft bearing is still in my old cylinder jug, any way to get out? Thanks🙏
  9. Installing my freshly cleaned exhaust valve. Following the service manual. But when I'm installing the return springs on the rod they feel very loose and don't return the valve assembly when you open it. Are the springs ment to just "hook" in place without further action? Do the springs need to be "pre-wound" or anything? Shouldn't the whole assembly be snapping back to the closed position when testing it? Should the springs be kind of loose on the shaft (read side to side play)? I don't know if I'm just overthinking this, thinking about it wrong, doing something wrong or if it's the way it should be. Here's a pic (front): and side: The manual is not very clear on this point and I can't remember how it was before I disassembled because the motor has been sitting around for a while waiting for new parts.
  10. Hi guys, I hope this is in the correct area of the forum. So I've recently bought my first 2t and needles to say it's not been what I expect when I bought it.. I've had a lot off issues with seized nuts and bolts and generally by the looks of it a poor maintenance schedule. First off I went to do a quick oil change and the inner clutch case basically fell apart around the drain plug when removing it, I've since replaced the inner clutch cover and had to swap over the power valve governor, arm and adjuster. Got it back together and I was unscrewing the adjuster and i felt and heard a clunk (think I unscrewed it to much), the 4 balls that had become unseated. I've taken the cover off and I believe it's back together correctly but the pin that holds them in seems to be relatively loose.. it also feels like there is no real resistance on the power valve arm. I haven't started the bike since doing this as I'm awaiting a new piston to arrive tomorrow hopfully. I have a Video but I'm not to sure how to upload it so can email it if it helps. Thanks, Jack
  11. Hi guys, I hope this is in the correct area of the forum. So I've recently bought my first 2t and needles to say it's not been what I expect when I bought it.. I've had a lot off issues with seized nuts and bolts and generally by the looks of it a poor maintenance schedule. First off I went to do a quick oil change and the inner clutch case basically fell apart around the drain plug when removing it, I've since replaced the inner clutch cover and had to swap over the power valve governor, arm and adjuster. Got it back together and I was unscrewing the adjuster and i felt and heard a clunk (think I unscrewed it to much), the 4 balls that had become unseated. I've taken the cover off and I believe it's back together correctly but the pin that holds them in seems to be relatively loose.. it also feels like there is no real resistance on the power valve arm. I haven't started the bike since doing this as I'm awaiting a new piston to arrive tomorrow hopfully. I have a Video but I'm not to sure how to upload it so can email it if it helps. Thanks, Jack
  12. Do you have a 200exc, xc, or xc-w? Do you want it to rip like a 125sx bike; have the engine scream like an eagle; hit jumps wide opened and soar through the air like a pheonix? Welp, the standard 200xc/w setup does none of those things. You might be saying to yourself - I already adjusted the PV arm for more top end. I already tried the 'langston setting' and my bike still sucks... 😞 Maybe you can't turn the 200xc/w, a purpose built tame offroad lugger, into a true SX style bike. or maybe your just not good enough to ride the bike that hardcore... Well your wrong, more wrong about anything in your life. Just look at this shinning example. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off here is some anecdotal info that I have learned as well as other people on the internet regarding the PV timer. Adjusting the PV lever arm up increases top end. True-ish, but this largely dependent on what type of pipe you have. With the standard 200xc/w pipe this works. But its not going to make into an 200sx. Softer PV springs increase top end. False , The 250-300 did this (mild/medium/aggressive PV springs) but I assume this was to have the same effect as adjusting the lever arm up on the 200 models. The 200sx actually used a stiffer PV spring. Don't worry I'll expalined why. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll start from the begining. ACT I I was using the KTM powerparts pipe and had the PV arm adjusted way way up for more top end. During the winter rebuild I switch to a FMF fatty for (2003-2004 200sx). The new bike ran like crap, no top end power. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position just to see what would happened and boom-shakalaka I had power again. With some adjusting, the ideal PV position was actually below stock. Why? FMF fattty was signifantly shorter than the KTM pipe. Which means... The suck-action is shorter, (pipe pulling mix through the transfers into the combustion chamber and pipe) The stuff-action starts and ends sooner, (pipe stuffing mix back into the combustion chamber while piston is traveling upwards). *If the stuff action happens to early in the cycle it stops mix from entering into the combustion chamber. I suspect this is what was happening. By lowering the PV arm the exhuast port open time is shifted later in the cycle... which also delays the pipe's suck & stuff cycle. So the shorter pipe cycle can correctly sync up... The negative & positive pressure waves occuring at the right piston position. I hope I explained that well enough, It's hard to put into words. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT II The fatty pipe wasn't great becuase this kept happening everytime I hit something. So switch to the DEP pipe. The DEP is a top-end wot pipe, best performing pipe I tried so far. It sits high up out of the way rocks. I've had mine for at 2 seasons and it has only 1 dent. But heres the catch; the DEP is short, shorter than the FMF, waayy shorter than the powerparts pipe. To get it to make power I had to move the PV arm down (like I did with the FMF) but like all the way down. More so than the adjuster was designed to do. The pictures shows were I had it, the arm is nearly touching the case and I had to use 2 washers to get the screw cap to fit. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT III I remembered from this post that the 200sx timers were stiffer. This got me thinking, a stiffer spring may work better with the DEP pipe; I wouldn't need the PV arm adjusted so far down. I did some research and bought all 3 springs. There where 3 types of springs made: 52337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 200'98 *SOFT* 52337050144 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL.200SX 03 *STIFF* ^^^*!! No Longer Available !!* 50337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 125'98 *STIFF* The 125 spring is identical to the 200sx spring from what I can tell, and is still available brand new from KTM. So there are 2 springs, soft & stiff. Lets see what bikes KTM used them on. 200 EXC - SOFT SPRING 200 XC -SOFT SPRING 200 SX- STIFF SPRING 150 SX - STIFF SPRING Look closely, all the bikes using the stiff spring have a much shorter pipe length than the soft spring bikes. Makes perfects sense, If the PV opens too much too soon the power drops out because the return wave is actually restricting mix from entering in the chamber- The issue I experienced with the fatty & DEP pipe. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT IV (its almost over) I installed the new PV timer during the most recent rebuild. I used the CPL. 125'98 because it was brand new. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position. Bike ran great, had power throuhout the range and loads of top-end like a true mx bike (like in the video). I did a little bit of adjusting to see if there was any more power to grab and heres where it ended up... ^^^ Thats pretty dang close to the 'langston setting'. If I remember correctly the langston setting was for 125, which means he's bike had the stiff PV spring. It's no coincidence that my bike with the same hardware would react similarly. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Conclusion The ideal PV arm position is extremely dependent on what pipe is on you'r bike. Just adjusting up does not always translate into more top-end power. If you'r running a 200sx pipe in an attempt to convert you'r bike you need the stiff spring to get it to work correctly. The EXC soft springs opens too soon and makes the engine out of tune. Full disclosure there is otherstuff done to my bike to increase top end. -Engine ported by Ken OConnor Racing -Carb bored to 38mm & Suzuki needle -Vortex CDI
  13. I have an 04 ktm 125sx. I just got my cylinder back from milenium and I'm re assembling the powervalve. When putting in the tongue and rods back into the cylinder, I noticed that the tongue doesn't move up or down. Its been so long that I can't remember if thats normal or not. They did an exhaust bridge repair so im wondering if that could be related to my issue.
  14. I need help finding the collar that sits behind the lever on the right side of the bike against the valve it self any suggestions
  15. My 97 yz 250 has a 96 top end on it and I can't for the life of me get it to run right. It runs just like if the choke is on. It has great power in the low end but as soon as I get to mid range and up to top end speed, it bogs down and it won't rev out like it should. Every once in a while It will speed up and run decent but It seems like It has a hard time transitioning from mid range to full speed. It also won't idle. The odd thing is, is that the very first time I put it all together and ran it, it idled perfect and ran amazing durring the 5 minute test ride that I took it on, the next day when I tried to ride, it was instantly giving me this problem. I was running 32:1 mix in it but it kept fouling the plug so just for testing purposes I ran 40:1 in it, it still bogs but now at least it won't foul the plug. By the way, it's a brand new plug so that should have nothing to do with it. So far what I have done is changed the crank seals, I've gone through the carb(168 main jet i believe) and everything else checks out there, choke is working as it should, it has brand new reeds in it, looked over the stator, all electrical connectors, ground wires, nothing looks out of place ignition wise, replaced some worn power valve linkage and I've ran the bike with the power valve linkage cover off to verify that the power valve is working correctly. It also has plenty of compression. Idk if it's ignition, fuel, or a porting issue with the different year model cylinder but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Just womdering who else has ran into this problem and what your solution was. Recently tore down my 01 kx250 to do a full engine rebuild ( 17 years of HARD ridings done a number on it). During this i discovered the LH power exhaust valve teeth are chewed off! Kawasaki losts it as p/n 1304 but 1304 is discontinued! Checked with several websites and no one has one. Not even ebay! Has anyone tried using the 2002 or 2003 valve as a replacement? Its listed as 1284(?) In the parts diagram. Any information would help!
  17. Adjusted the power valve on my 99 cr250 and not the power valve won't move at all I took the pin out of the top to clean the linkage up a little bit could the drive shaft have disconnected from the pinion shaft?
  18. Hey guys. I have a 1996 rm 125 and I am taking apart the top end currently. Been riding the bike for a while and been thinking my Powervalve might be need to be cleaned because I really have to wait for the powerband to kick in. I took apart the linkage cover to discover that the actuating arm is fairly easy to move even with my finger. On other bikes I noticed that you really had to pull on the arm to put it back into place and it wouldn't turn with just your finger. I haven't taken it all the way apart yet as I might find more problems I might need help with but I have attached what I am talking about. Let me know if anyone has any info. Thanks!
  19. I have a yz 125 bored out to a 144 and I’m wondering what my powervalve clearance should be set to, the same as stock or more?
  20. Somebody please help me lol I have a 2009 ktm 300xcw the bike will start fine but wont idle the bike sounds like its hitting a rev limiter or blaaah blaaah blaaah every time I get on the throttle I've tried everything I could think of I've bought new reeds, cleaned all the jets out, changed the powervalve spring, changed the plug, still nothing I'm going to check the stator and coil tomorrow but I'm lost if it's not the stator or coul
  21. I am putting my grandsons kx 100 back together and cannot get the power valve to connect. You can see in the pic that the marks are lined up, but Icant get the linkage to connect. There is not much play in the shaft, maybe 1/4". Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
  22. Hey guys, I've read a lot on here about the yz250x governor mod (including the 26 pager from late 15 early 16). Thanks to all those who did that ground work. I have also searched everywhere and not finding exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm new around these parts so bear with me if this has already been covered. My question is, it seems like the yz guys are putting in the x spring with 3 washers and saying it feels more x like. Then you have the x guys taking out one of the .8 washers and saying it feels more yz like. So I'm guessing it falls somewhere in between. But I have not seen anywhere that people have tried the yz spring in the x with the four .8 washers. If that has already been discussed, I apologize and maybe someone can be so kind as to leave a link. Just trying to wake the x up a little more.
  23. So my left side power valve on the CR125 won't slide back into the seat. Pretty sure my son was riding it too hard and had the RPMs why high (although we won't admit it). Now the left side power valve won't side back in. I checked for obstructions but nothing. Could he have warped it? I was looking with the naked eye but could not see anything. I'm sure it wouldn't take much as these things don't have too much room fitting in the seat. Before I looked for a new left side power valve anyone have any experience with this? Oh and the H.P.P. was cracked too!
  24. Been working on my CR125r and was about to do a top end rebuild. When I was disassembling it, I realized the power valve linkage arm was snapped. What are symptoms of a broken power valve arm? When I was ridding it it seamed relatively healthy. Also, what would be the best way to go about fixing this? Just take the engine completely apart? Thanks
  25. Hey guys, I ride a 1996 yz250, I had the motor rebuilt fully from the ground up and there is a clearance issue I am having with the powervalve. When I get the governor in place and get the clutch side case together it pushes the powervalve linkage up basically to where the powervalve is about 90% open. But when I push the powervalve linkage back to where the manual says it needs to be aligned it pushes the clutch cover out about 1/4 inch. My mechanic has taken the motor apart many times now and we cannot seem to figure out that is making this linkage arm extend up so far. Any help would be great, thanks in advance.
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