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Found 118 results

  1. After experiencing some overheating while going slow in rough terrain I decided to try a cheap fix and install a couple of cooling fans. Here are some photos of my fan installation. The fans are not sealed but since they are brush-less DC fans, unless some debris gets in them they should not be affected by the environment. The fans are fairly inexpensive draw very little current and easy to replace if they fail. The fans are held on the radiator by zip ties. I inserted one zip tie through each of the radiator side mounting holes of the fan then passed the zip ties through the fins if the radiator and secured them with the clipped-off head of another zip tie. The 2006 250 xc-w does not appear to have a 12vdc circuit. It does have an output from the generator that I assume is alternating current. Since the stock regulator only has one wire going to it and ground on the other side I suspect is just a zener diode, that acts as a voltage limiter shunting anything over a certain voltage to ground. If that is the case the AC generator output would be fine for lights and a horn, but not a Direct Current Fan. I installed a inexpensive (cheap) aftermarket regulator/rectifier, inserting it between the generator and the rest of the KTM's electrical circuit. You can see the voltage regulator in the attached photos. The regulator/rectifier provides 12vdc to the fans, horn, lights and the battery. The battery pack is a ni-mh 1800 mha 12vdc, NOT lithium-ion. I opted for the ni-mh because there is less of a fire hazard in-case the voltage regulator goes nuts. The battery is connected to the rest of the circuit with a 7.5 amp fuse and is intended to act as a voltage conditioner. If the voltage provided by the regulator has any rpm related spikes, or dips, the battery should absorb the spikes by charging, and fill any dips by discharging. Or at least that's the plan. The battery also powers the fans if the radiators are still hot when the engine is not running. The fans are activated by an appliance thermo-snap switch. This switch is a normally open bi-metal switch that closes at 85c (185f). It is designed to switch 120vac at 8 amps. That is an order of magnitude more current then the fans require, so they are not likely to fail due to current draw. If it fails it will probably be a result of exceeding the cycle life of the switch and I have NO idea of how many cycles to failure this switch is rated for. It is attached to the radiator just below the radiator cap near the hot coolant in hose using JB weld epoxy adhesive. The switch activates after the stock thermostat opens fully and the coolant temp at the top of the radiator exceeds 85c. Since installing the fans, a coolant recovery bottle and a 1.8 bar radiator cap, even though I have been riding harder, I have not experienced any steam from overheating. I have seen the coolant recovery bottle over half full. So the cooling system with the fans running has gotten hot enough to overpressure the 1.8 bar radiator cap and over flow coolant into the recovery bottle, but it did not over flow the bottle, and all of the coolant was returned to the radiator as soon as the bike cooled. The fact that the coolant bottle did have coolant overflow in it is proof that the fans and 1.8 bar radiator cap are not a total cure to overheating. Though as I said overheating has happened far fewer times even though I'm riding more and harder than last year. The thermo-snap switch ensures that the whole system is automatic requiring no input from the rider. The fans turn on and off according to radiator temperature whether the engine is running or not. The fan system weighs less than 1 kg (2 lbs). All in all I am very satisfied with the way it works. I know the wiring is a rats nest. It was pretty much a proof of concept job. My son was going to clean it up and give it a more professional look, but I haven't gotten it over to him yet (1year+) >>> See my coolant recovery bottle system HERE.
  2. More than you wanted to know about Liquid Engine Cooling Liquid cooling is an often overlooked part of an engine's operation. If it's not overheating then everything's good. The problem is that, when trouble does develop, the answers can be elusive. I'll come right out front by saying that I work at Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. and stand behind the properties of our waterless coolant. I'll tell you about it at the end, but first I'm going to cover some things that you should know if you choose to use a water-based anti-freeze. If you're sick of overheating, you can just skip ahead. Physics Pressure: A higher pressure will raise the boiling point of a liquid. A lower pressure will lower the boiling point. Water runs down hill. For us, it's more important to recognize that vapor wants to go up. This is why cooling systems (almost) always flow out of the bottom of the radiator, down to the pump and into the bottom of the engine. Vent lines are placed so that vapor can escape (from the pump, head, or elsewhere) and go up into the radiator. This direction of coolant flow naturally carries vapor up and out of the engine. Overheating happens when the coolant temperature reaches its failure (boiling) point. Sometimes it is said that when coolant starts spitting out, it's your warning that things are getting too hot. It's not a warning of a failure; it is the failure. Vapor shielding: As the anti-freeze begins to boil inside the cooling jacket, it forms vapor. Soon the vapor increases from a few bubbles to being a layer along the metal surface. This layer prevents liquid from contacting the metal and the metal is effectively insulated; it is no longer “liquid cooled.” The metal temperature spikes and hot spot detonation, seizure, and other engine damage are the result. Head gasket failure is due to head warping which is the result of uneven temperatures across the head. System Layout There are from 6 to 9 basic components depending on the particular layout of the cooling system: radiator(s), cap, overflow tank, hoses, hose clamps, thermostat, cooling jacket (inside engine), pump, and fan. Dirt bikes will lack some of these parts and complex street bikes can have more. Avoid Boiling the Coolant The goal of the system is to cool the engine, but that statement is too simple. The goal is to keep the metal temperatures under control and this can only happen if the liquid is in contact with the metal and carries the heat away. It is often recognized that a greater amount of heat is removed through the action of boiling, but this is only true until the bubbles formed grow big and displace the liquid coolant. If the metal is in contact with vapor, not liquid, the metal temperature cannot be controlled. Boiling coolant is to be avoided. There are two sides to improving the efficiency of your cooling system. One is maintenance and the other the choice of components. Maintenance Keep the outside surfaces of the radiator clean. Spray water through the fins from the back to clean out mud and grass. I never use a pressure washer on my bikes. Some teams put a mesh across the front of the radiators in muddy conditions. If the fins get bent, you can spend some time to straighten them out. Every little bit helps improve efficiency. Check the hoses. Obviously you are looking for cracks or bulges so they can be replaced before a failure. Keep in mind that an older hose can leak through the threads. The hose may look fine, but the coolant can get through the inside layer of rubber and then follow the threads out. Leaks don't always drip to the ground; look for a crusty streak, sometimes at the pump. Change your anti-freeze every year. After time, the corrosion inhibiting additives fall out of solution and settle out of the coolant; this is the sludge that collects at low points in the system. When this happens, the anti-freeze will continue to cool the engine as it did before, but there is much less corrosion protection. If left like this for too long, the corrosion that forms will insulate the metal surfaces from the coolant and this WILL decrease the cooling efficiency. This is why they suggest using a vinegar rinse to clean the system out. Diagnosing an overheating engine Radiator cap: Does the gasket seal? Any rips in it or dirt under it?Is the small disc on the underside free to move? This disc is the return valve that lets coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank when the engine cools. If the cap doesn't pressurize the system because it doesn't seal, the boiling point of the coolant will be lowered and overheating is the result. A leak elsewhere in the system can also cause a loss of pressure; at operating temperature, you should feel the pressure if you squeeze a hose. Thermostat: If it is stuck open, it may be hard to warm the engine up on a cold day.If it is stuck closed, the engine will run hot or overheat. You can test it by putting it in water and seeing if/when it opens as you heat it up. Thermostats have different temperature ratings. If it's a “190 thermostat” it should be open at 190F. Racers often remove the thermostat entirely to increase the flow rate of the coolant. Do not remove a bypass type thermostat unless you constrict or block the bypass line. There is a myth out there that if you remove the thermostat, the coolant will flow too quickly to shed the heat through the radiator. The radiator can dissipate heat just fine; in fact, it becomes more efficient with a greater liquid/air temperature difference. The myth originates from a real effect which is based on pressure. The thermostat (or restrictor that may be installed in its place) raises the pressure on the coolant in the engine as the pump pushes against it. This higher pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant inside the engine. Pump: Obviously, if the pump doesn't pump, you'll overheat. These days pump impellers are likely to be plastic. We've seen manufacturing problems where the impellers separate from the shaft; you could look at this impeller and not see that it's broken, but it would come off in your hand. We've also seen the blades snap off due to cavitation. Cavitation happens when a coolant is close to its boiling point. The “draw” side of the pump naturally has a lower pressure, and this can cause the fluid to vaporize. As the blades smack against this mix of vapor and liquid, they can wear or break. The pump is not designed to pump vapor so this cavitation also slows the coolant flow which will cause the temperature to rise. If the additives in the anti-freeze have fallen out of solution or you've been using straight water without a pump lube, the pump seal can fail leading to a bearing failure. Engine oil that looks creamy is telling you that there's water in it. If it's reddish brown like peanut butter, it's rusty water. Jetting: A lean fuel/air ratio will cause an engine to run hotter. An aftermarket pipe without proper jetting/fuel injection tuning will flow more air making the engine run leaner. A clogged jet can do the same. Changing things like cams, spark advance, and compression ratio can make an engine run hotter. Ethanol in the fuel will burn leaner. Look for a possible air leak in the boot between the carburetor and head. Altitude: It's not just that the air is less dense at altitude, but the lowered ambient pressure also has an effect. The radiator cap will pressurize the system to, say, 13 psi *over the atmospheric pressure*. A lower atmospheric pressure will lower the internal system pressure. You or your friends: If you are riding slowly, there is less airflow to the radiator. If you get stuck or are waiting at a bottleneck, that problem is worse. Air Pocket: Air trapped in the system can interrupt coolant flow and cause overheating. Optimizing the System: Hoses: Silicone hoses are better quality in general and resist heat stress and age cracking. There are silicone hose kits available that eliminate the plastic Y connector. This connector has a smaller inside diameter than the hose, so it restricts the flow; get rid of it if you can. If you go to silicone hoses, spend a little more on the recommended hose clamps so that they don't cut into the silicone. Silicone hoses are more delicate in terms of impacts, so consider a guard in places where a rock may hit it. Radiators: There are a number of aftermarket radiator companies that make upgraded radiators. Generally they are bigger and/or deeper which adds fluid capacity and surface area to the system, both of which help lower coolant temperature. Whatever radiators you use, make sure they're clean inside and out. Radiator cap: A higher pressure rated cap will raise the boiling point of the coolant. Race teams sometimes take this to an extreme; I've seen auto racing teams that have an air valve on the cap so they can pressurize it with an air compressor. The FIA limited the allowed pressure in Formula One for safety reasons. I don't recommend raising the pressure more than just a few psi. Pump: There are some aftermarket pumps available. A better impeller will increase flow and an efficiently designed housing can reduce the flow restriction. Fan: There are fan kits available now for some dirt bikes; increasing air flow to the radiator will decrease the coolant temperature. Making sure the fan is operating correctly is important. There can be failures of the temperature sensor or fan switch. Some people like to install a manual switch so they can override the automatic operation. If there is a shroud around the fan or ducting that the manufacturer installed, make sure it remains as they intended. Anti-Freeze: Any coolant with water in it has the same basic properties because those properties are limited by water's characteristics. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. The boiling point is raised a little when it's mixed 50/50 with glycol, either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. The big increase in boiling point comes from pressurizing the system. Tap water is terrible stuff to use, but most of the anti-freeze for sale today is pre-mixed with clean water anyway. Many equipment manufacturers have guidelines on the anti-freeze to use such as “no phosphate or silicate based additives”. These additives can be gritty like sand and are bad for pump seals. Limitations of Water: Water is corrosive. Anti-freeze manufacturers use a number of different additive packages to fight this property, but they all settle out after time allowing the corrosion to occur. Some additives are bad for seals like silicates. Some additives, like the OAT type(organic acid technology) degrade silicone. Water conducts electricity. This electrolysis eats metal. You can buy “sacrificial” metal tablets to put in the system that will “absorb” the damage from electrolysis. Water's boiling point is too close to the operating temperature of the coolant. There is a very narrow safety margin and the anti-freeze will boil in specific locations before the system is observed to be overheating. The area around the exhaust valves is typically quite hot. When the anti-freeze boils here, a vapor layer forms that shields the metal surface from the liquid coolant. The metal temperature then spikes and detonation is the result. The engine will run poorly and lose power as the coolant temperature approaches its failure point. While the system pressure raises the boiling point, it also sets up a situation where a puncture will expel all the coolant. Hot anti-freeze will gush from an opened cap, but not because of the pressure that the cap regulates. When the cap is removed, the pressure drops which drops the boiling point in the system. It is the flash boiling that happens inside the engine that causes the gusher. Evans Waterless Coolant: Like I said at the top, I work at Evans, but I'm not just a paid promoter. I started using Evans waterless coolant while road racing in the 1990's when it was still legal for pavement racing. As I became more familiar with its properties, I put it in all my vehicles and started selling it at the track and online. Things grew to the point that my volume was getting noticed by the company. Years later, and here we are with a formula specifically designed for the powersports industry. I'd appreciate it if you'd let me tell you about the product that I believe should be in every performance machine out there. You wouldn't take the back off your watch and pour water in it; it's time to stop pouring water in your engine! The high boiling point of Evans means that the coolant temperature won't go above its failure point. It operates within the same temperature range as conventional anti-freeze and is able to stay in contact with metal surfaces, even at stressful points like around the exhaust valves. Pump cavitation is avoided, as is electrolysis. All of Evans' coolant formulas are non-corrosive and last the lifetime of the engine. If I'm rebuilding an engine, I will save the coolant and pour it back in the rebuilt engine. Evans Coolant doesn't freeze; we state that it will flow at -40F, but we have not found a freezing point. After lowering a sample to -60F without freezing, we decided to talk about its pour point like the oil industry does. Evans Coolant is a patented blend of chemicals, most of which are commonly found in conventional anti-freeze formulas, and additives with no water. It is not a gel and will not turn gooey if anti-freeze is added to it. If something were to happen on the trail and you are forced to add water or anti-freeze, it will simply perform like conventional anti-freeze, no worse. Information on the web about poor cold weather performance of Evans Coolant refers to our oldest formula. The current formulas are approved for all weather conditions and are mandated by Rotax for use in their 900 series aircraft engines. Evans Coolant has a high boiling point of 375F at atmospheric pressure. While it does not need pressure to raise its boiling point, we do not recommend modifying the system to hold zero pressure. It will expand 7% at operating temperature so you will notice some movement to the expansion tank, but it doesn't build pressure like water does. If you were to open the cap when hot, it shouldn't spurt out. A little might come out, like a tablespoon, but if more does, it is a sign that there is either water present or an air pocket in the system. The added safety margin of the high boiling point will save the engine when conditions become extreme. Through an unintentional error that cut air flow to the radiator, I saw the coolant temperature on my road race bike go to 297F. The bike was still running alright, so we changed the oil and fixed the cause of the problem. The engine ran fine for all the races that weekend and then all the races at the finals at Daytona. Evans Powersports Coolant is trusted by race teams around the world. I encourage you to go to our website www.evanscooling.com to learn more and see the interview with Jay Leno or stop by our Facebook page http://www.facebook....300949013264495 for a more personal interaction. When you hear about our Chinese business, you should know that we make the coolant in Pennsylvania and export it into China. Evans China has installed American made waterless coolant into more than 150,000 new passenger cars so far!
  3. 1 review

    Inline Thermostat for motorcycles. CONTACT INFORMATION: Address: Watt-man LLC 6501 E. Greenway Pkwy, #103-296 Scottsdale, AZ 85254 USA e-mail: watt-man@cox.net phone: (602)380-5756
  4. 2 reviews

    Upgrading to a high-pressure 1.6 BAR (23 psi) from the stock radiaotor cap is the simplest and least expensive way to avoid over-boiling your engine Raising your cooling systemss maximum operating pressure increases your coolants boiling point, allowing your to ride harder and longer Chrome finished cap Universal fit for most machines High-temp corrosion-resistant silicone seals
  5. 14 reviews

    The CV4 Radiator Hose Kit is a two-in-one package that brings style and performance. Constructed with polyester-reinforced silicone that provides better flow and durability then O.E.M. radiator hoses. The quality of materials CV4 uses allows the inner diameter of the hoses to be much smoother then O.E.M. which increases radiator fluid flow. By increasing the flow through the hoses the engine temperature will drop, therefore increasing horsepower. Resists deterioration caused by UV and ozone toxins and will last much longer then O.E.M. hoses. Kit includes all necessary radiator hoses.
  6. 0 comments

    Best bike I've owned so far. The map switch makes it into multiple bikes with the push of a button. I bought it because I was tired of always chasing power with my 250F. Now I have more power than I will ever need and can focus on detuning it with the push of a button for tight single track. Suspension: best stock suspension I've ridden, this is the first bike that I'm not going to revalve. Works on single track rocks and roots while also getting me around a vet MX track. Handling: feels lighter than my old 250F and has much better front wheel feel/feedback. You actually get some warning before the front washes out. I'm currently running a 2 link longer chain, I like the way the bike handles with the longer wheelbase. Still turns well and is super stable on whooped out desert runs. Brakes: the front brake needed bleeding when new, but after getting all the air out it's plenty strong with good modulation/feedback. The rear brake works without being too grabby. Controls: the clutch pull is light and stays consistent, I do think the engagement point is abrupt, but I got used to it. The throttle cam is on the aggressive side at low throttle openings and will bite you if you get careless. Rider triangle: I'm short, 5'7", so the low seat and stock handlebar position works great for me. Contrary to other reviews, I don't feel like the bike is any wider than other liquid cooled bikes I've ridden. Plastic: the oem blue plastic has gotten much better than my old WR. After a year of riding there are no white streaks anywhere on the bike. The inlayed graphics are sweet, still look brand new! Overall fit and finish: bike is wearing very well. I'm still running stock Controls and haven't had anything break. My fork seals did start seeping at 18 hours, but after cleaning the seals and started lubricating the lower tubes after every wash they have sealed back up. After 13 months all I've had to buy is oil, tires, front sprocket, and chain.
  7. 2 comments

    It has a very neutral chassis, turns very well but doesn't give much up in stability. The power is very linear and easy to use. If you wan't a hard-hitting 2 stroke, this isn't your bike. Even with the aggressive map switch and the powervalve adjuster turned in, it much more mellow than my Yz. Although the power may not be exciting, it's perfect for gnarly technical terrain. Stock forks were harsh on square-edge obstacles. The Pressure springs(small spring in the top of the fork) are known to be to stiff for most offroad riding. I had them changed out when the forks were revalved. E-start works flawlessly and starts the bike within a couple seconds when cold. Ergo's feel good to me...at 6'1", I was worried that it would feel to small to me, but that's not the case. The rear brake lever is a little low for most people, but I actually prefer it that way and it's adjustable anyway. Brakes themselves feel good, the front in particular is very strong. I don't feel they give up much to the Brembo's on the Ktm's. 40 hour update: replaced the stock rear tire within 20 hours and did the front at about the 35 hour point. I now have a tubliss front and rear, with a new rim in the front because of bad crash I had. In that crash, I also smashed the pipe, split a radiator hose, twisted both radiators, and popped the preload adjusters out of both forks. Beta fixed the forks free of charge, so no complaints there. Separate from that crash, the stock map switch is busted and I blew the fuse for the e-starter, although it blew in extremely wet conditions. The most likely culprit is the horn, it's a pretty common issue that's easy to fix. Also, the stock plastic is extremely brittle and easy to crack.
  8. 5 reviews

    PRODUCT INFORMATION Highest quality motocross hoses on the market today. Manufactured with an exclusive blend of reinforced, woven Thermoplastic and Pure Silicone materials. High Heat Silicone inner liner that improves water-flow and cooling for all race engines with stand 420 degrees. Available in all of colors to give your bike that race pro factory look along with better performance cooling systems. Perfect custom fit with easy installation. Less weight then the OEM hoses. In stock ready for fast shipping. Includes 1 Year Limited Replacement Warranty.
  9. 1 review

    FEATURES: 1.ABS plastic,lightweight 2.The unique fan blade design allows you to pull or push air with the same velocity. 3.The motor is easily reversible for any application. Most other fans are designed for one-way air flow. 4.Our fans have ten points for the mounting feet giving you flexible installation options. 5.These truly are slim fans.They measure only 2.5"at the deepest point,making them ideal for cramped areas. 6.Radiator cooling fan that fits with a Clark fuel tank.
  10. 1 comment

    Actually a 2009 model. Not a bad machine. Bad bits; radiators are easy to damage, even with 'gaurds'. Suspension is pretty average, stock. Suspension linkage needs greasing more than average due to a bad seal design. A bit heavy, and not real nimble. Good bits; Tons of power, easy to work on. E-start (plus kick) I don't mean to make it sound bad, it's a pretty decent bike, a few small mods and some different tires (pirelli's instead of michelin) and it's starting to work well now. I'm happy with it. With gold valves fitted front and rear, cutting the bars down a bit and setting the front springs a couple of grooves softer, it's turning much better now and doesn't feel quite so big and clumsy. Just need to sort the rider out now 🙄
  11. 0 comments

    Needs more bottom end lower stock but it is my favorite 125 2 stroke
  12. 0 comments

    Its a 10 year old motocross bike, with very low hours. Perfect for an Enduro conversion. This bike astounds me. One day I'm riding MX on a track, the next I'm riding in the desert on single track. Its unstoppable, and just so easy and forgiving. I love this bike.
  13. 0 comments

    best bike i've ever owned it just works plain and simple. bought it for 900 bucks after selling my kx250. i dropped 1300 into the engine and a few more into the chassis. awesome bike works extremely well.
  14. Looking at this for my 2013 Beta 520 RS. For the guys that have done this, is there really no downside to not having a thermostat? I assume the thermostat might only help with initial warm up, and anytime after that it is just flowing thru anyway??
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