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Showing results for tags 'Rmz'.
Found 13 results
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I was wondering if the is a way to de tune a 450 or some modifications that you can or people down to make a 450 motor more reliable? -
2018 purchased with 40-53 hours on the stock motor, pistons, vavles, shims, transmission, everything; besides an aftermarket yoshimura slip on exhaust. Checked the vavle clearance before I road it and they were all in spec with suzuki's service manual. Let's move on. The bike was primary used for I dont know what. The last owner said he did some riding in the Oregon sand dunes. No idea if it was raced before that. My goal was to turn it into a road legal dual sport. I opted for a 2012 RMZ because they come with a dignostic port behind the front number plate mounted on the ECU that when kicked over provides a constant voltage of 13.50V to 14.50V ish. To power all the road legal stuff. Upon completion I replaced the hour meter with a Trail Tech Endurance 2 at 0 miles and 0 hours. Other then a stainless steel oil filter, changed spark plug, and cleaned air filter the engine remained stock. I commuted with the bike to work daily which is 3 miles there and 3 back on 40 mph roads. During lunch i ride for one hour about 15-20 miles on some wood trails. Blah blah blah. Fast forward some more and the bike has 90 accumalated hours total. I have not check the vavle clearance since getting the bike. Most of the riding was around 45-55 mph average for top speed to 35 everywhere else. My oil changes have been every 10 hours give or take how hard and how many miles I've driven. Changed with full synthetic maxima pro plus 10w40 oil. Air filter was cleaned once in between, from the time I got the bike till 90 hours........ lay it on me but wait till you finish this read. Okay so up to this time I'll reiterate that the engine is still stock. No top end rebuilts, no vavle shims, NOTHING! All OEM. At 90 hours I changed the gearing from the stock 13/49 to 15/49 since then I've added 15 hours on it with the same riding habits as before with my longest highway/freeway trip being 30 minutes at 18 miles mostly highway miles driven at or around 65Mph. Yeah she was screaming at that too, with a 5 speed gear box. It was sketchy even with that changed gearing. Blah blah again. Now I'm at 110 hours and 1500 miles on a still stock motor besides transmission gearing. My vavle spacing hasn't changed. And I decided to tear down the top end to see what I'm working with. Cylinder, piston, rings, conrod, vavles, spark plug, head, etc look okay with normal wear and tear. So in conclusion. I will order a forged piston to deal better with the higher rpms that I run at. BUT THAT AS FAR AS ENGINE MODS WILL BE IT. I haven't notice any power losses and love that gearing. It still works well down low. Now take it or leave it but this is an honest tracker from my level of riding and mechanicle knowledge. I'm not getting paid for this or influenced by a company or brand. I'm just posting this because there is, in my opinion no real knowledge posted about this topic but a lot of people are curious. Thanks.- 26 replies
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On my 2008 rmz 450, at 1/4 throttle there's this horrible studder. It started about a month ago. The bike has about 70 hours on it i bought it later last year and never had a problem with it. The only thing that i changed on it was the header pipe it had the stock one and i tweaked it where it was making a weird noise so i replaced it with a stock one. Things i have tried............................ New spark plug Cleaned the air filter Oil change Checked the valves one exhaust is on the loose side but not out of spec. I may try injector cleaner but idk if thats ok for these bikes. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance
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I ordered a set of going racing radiator hose from eBay. I don't know the size of hose clamps to get. Can someone with experience tell me. Are they same as stock or what. Thanks
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There is a problem with my friends 06 crf250. It will start up and idle for a little bit and then stall. Turning on the choke makes it run longer but not by much then it stalls. Also, if you give it throttle to keep it from stalling it sputter and dies. The carb has been rebuilt, also all the Jets have been cleaned along with everything else. The tank had been emptied and filled with fresh gas. What could cause this? -
On my dirt bike I can pull the clutch in and rev and it will move slightly when in gear. Also, it rolls forward a significant amount when kick-starting in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Also it is very hard to roll around in gear with the clutch pulled in. The clutch is adjusted correctly
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I have a 2004 rmz 250 and when I pull in the clutch and put it into first gear the bike still moves (the clutch is all the way in.) I tried adjusting the cable and the idle but that didn't help at all. Also when the bike is running I can't go back to neutral unless I shut it off. Are these problems related? And do I need a new clutch or new clutch basket? Pls help! Thanks.
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Hey guys, I've been on thumpertalk for a while but always on the drz side. I'm currently converting my drz to efi using a 2016 rmz450 throttle body and microsquirt ecu, now I've done some googling and for the life of me I can't find the figures I need. The map sensor fitted to the throttle body works but the ecu needs figures to draw its conclusions about vacuum. I've been able to find those figures in the fi trouble shooting part of an online 2007 model manual from manualslib. But from what I can see they do not use the same map sensor as the 2016. I'm hoping someone can help me by taking a photo of their manual for me, I'd be very grateful. I only really need 2 data points to be able to set it up. But there no easy way to get that data due to the 2016 model sensor being fitted flush to throttle body with no where to fit a vacuum pump for testing
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On my 2008 rmz 450, at 1/4 throttle there's this horrible studder. It started about a month ago. The bike has about 70 hours on it i bought it later last year and never had a problem with it. The only thing that i changed on it was the header pipe it had the stock one and i tweaked it where it was making a weird noise so i replaced it with a stock one. Things i have tried............................ New spark plug Cleaned the air filter Oil change Checked the valves one exhaust is on the loose side but not out of spec. I may try injector cleaner but idk if thats ok for these bikes. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance
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I have a 2004 rmz 250 and when I pull in the clutch and put it into first gear the bike still moves (the clutch is all the way in.) I tried adjusting the cable and the idle but that didn't help at all. Also when the bike is running I can't go back to neutral unless I shut it off. Are these problems related? And do I need a new clutch or new clutch basket? Pls help! Thanks.
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So bought a pair of warp 9 rims off guy that said they were off drz400sm.. Done research and seems to be off rmz250 or 450.. Is there anyway to make them work on drz 400e.. Can i swap bearing and use spacers? If so does anyone know what size and where to get them?.. Also would i need a dif bracket for caliper or rotor to make it work? Thanks ahead of time!
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I’m looking at a 06 rmz 250 for 3000$(CAD) and I’m wondering what type of things I should look for on the bike (it’s my first race bike not my first bike)
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I have a 2005 RMZ450 that I purchased not going. Turns out it had bent the exhaust valves. I have ordered new valves for 05-06 but the valve stems are smaller diameter. The VIN on the bike confirms that it is an 05. Does anyone know what year engine the original valves are for? (see pics for measurements) Not sure if the engine is not a 05 or the valves sent are labeled wrong.
