Search the Community

Hi I own a 2003 KTM250SX that is Idling super high and Lean I re jetted the carb and it is still idling way to high (I have messed with the idle and Air Screw) The jetting right now is 178 Main 50 Pilot and 2 3/4 turn out on the Air screw Everything is set to my elevation according to my manual Anything will help Thanks!

Hey everyone. New to TT. Anyone know what the ring end gap should be for a 2011 KTM 250sxf? As far as I know the manual says 1mm and 1.20 for the oil ring. Seems a little big to me as I was thinking it would be around .40mm. Anyone know if there's a reason why they call for 1mm?

I currently have a ktm 125 sx 2008 and im wanting to convert the plastics to something a bit new , i love the look of the 2015/2016 and 19/20 but not the 17 do you know what the work will be like to make these fit ? And which year would be the easiest thanks

-is it possible for me to streetlegal a 2017 KTM sx125? -What are the best KTM 2 stroke dirtbikes that could ride legally on road ?

I bought my first dirtbike a few days ago and its a 09 ktm 125 sx , super clean , fresh set of plastics and only 7hrs since last rebuild. I am currently trying to find a kickstand for it but i am having trouble finding one for my year. does anyone know of any ?

I'll start this post by saying hi to the 2T Austrian crowd. I'm a little unknown to these threads because I used to frequent the WR450 side of the house... but like many of us, the need to mix fuel gets the better of us. Anyways, on with the post. About two months I started looking for a mini to compete against a whole herd of 150R's that were dominating our mini class with Victoria Supermoto. Thing was, I couldn't see myself riding red (plus they're super expensive around here), so I started looking for viable alternatives to the "norm". After a couple weeks of searching, I found this little gem on a local buy/sell/trade site. I knew it had potential against the herd.. but I wasn't too sure how much it'll cost me in the end. The things that attracted me to the bike.. 1: it had better components that the honda, 2: it was lighter, and 3: I kinda missed riding a 2T (1st bike in 1994 was a 1981 RM125). 4: 6 speed vs 5 So, I made an offer and the seller agreed to the price, so I took it home later that day. Day 1 was a long as I did a complete bike disassembly to survey for damage or items to replace/repair before bringing it to the track. Luckily the bike started first kick cold, and the previous owner had lots of fairly recent receipts for top/bottom end work carried out by a reputable shop locally, so I figured the motor didn't have to be opened up yet. Then I started scrubbing/cleaning.. I'll admit, my CDO (alphabetically correct OCD) took over and things started to snowball a bit. 😛 About 2 weeks later and a massive hoard of new shinny KTM parts later, I rebuilt the clutch M/C, bled the clutch, installed new EBC sintered pads (F/R), swapped brake fluid to Motul RBF660, replaced all chain sliders, repacked every bearing with grease, repacked the silencer and installed some Bridgestone BT45 tires on the factory 19/16 wheels. That was enough to do it's initial shakedown at the track. Now armed with the knowledge I learned from the outing, it was time to modify and address any issues I encountered while trackside. I started with the feeble factory 220mm front brakes.. and ordered the KTM 260mm hard-parts BBK. Next I moved on to gearing.. I quickly realized that a 13/51 wasn't ideal.. So I promptly ordered the factory 14/46 gears to boost my overall speed. Now, I could confidently get up to around 110 km/hr and stop almost as quickly without any sign of brake fade. Next, I ordered all new plastics, factory 2012 decal kit, throttle cable, SXS CDI, clutch basket, clutch hub, and new steels and fibres. Then, while I was ordering parts one of the parts guys asked what I was using the bike for.. and he showed me the hard parts catalogue from 2009 that had a factory Supermoto conversion kit for the 85 SX. I hate him.. now I had to have it. Unfortunately.. I was informed that everything was discontinued from KTM.. So the search began. About a week later, the latest batch of parts showed up, so I got to installing everything. Here's how it sits right now My search continues. So, to be continued..

Will Tomac increase his points lead? Will Webb show signs of life? Will Craig suffer more misfortune? Craig Mosiman Hunter Tomac Sexton Anderson

Hello, I have a 2023 ktm 250 sx, went to re-grease my steering stem bearings and noticed several tablespoons of what appears to be casting slag all over the bearings and in the steering stem. Curious if anyone else has seen this on their bikes, and if not it may be worth a check. Anyone else have this?

I have a 2003 Ktm 250sx that I would like to turn into a good off-road bike. It handled single track at Buffalo mountain fairly well but I would like to make it better. My biggest question is can I swap in an exc gearbox or at least 1st and 2nd. I was told that the rest of the gears were identical. Also, what are some good mods for it? So far I’m planning on installing a flywheel weight, Changing out the power valve spring, putting on a thunder products intellajet, putting on protection like skid plate and pipe guard, getting the suspension set up and getting tubliss for the rear. If the exc gearbox fits I will be doing that as well. I’m 16 and I have other things to put money into as well so I would really like to make a great enduro bike without spending a ton of money

On my bike there are 1 bolt on each side of the body near the forks that make sure that the forks don’t hit the radiator. Well I crashed and one of those bolts is bent to the point where It’s like it’s not there, do I need to replace it to jump and if so where would I get this? Has this happened to anyone else?

Do you have a 200exc, xc, or xc-w? Do you want it to rip like a 125sx bike; have the engine scream like an eagle; hit jumps wide opened and soar through the air like a pheonix? Welp, the standard 200xc/w setup does none of those things. You might be saying to yourself - I already adjusted the PV arm for more top end. I already tried the 'langston setting' and my bike still sucks... 😞 Maybe you can't turn the 200xc/w, a purpose built tame offroad lugger, into a true SX style bike. or maybe your just not good enough to ride the bike that hardcore... Well your wrong, more wrong about anything in your life. Just look at this shinning example. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off here is some anecdotal info that I have learned as well as other people on the internet regarding the PV timer. Adjusting the PV lever arm up increases top end. True-ish, but this largely dependent on what type of pipe you have. With the standard 200xc/w pipe this works. But its not going to make into an 200sx. Softer PV springs increase top end. False , The 250-300 did this (mild/medium/aggressive PV springs) but I assume this was to have the same effect as adjusting the lever arm up on the 200 models. The 200sx actually used a stiffer PV spring. Don't worry I'll expalined why. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll start from the begining. ACT I I was using the KTM powerparts pipe and had the PV arm adjusted way way up for more top end. During the winter rebuild I switch to a FMF fatty for (2003-2004 200sx). The new bike ran like crap, no top end power. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position just to see what would happened and boom-shakalaka I had power again. With some adjusting, the ideal PV position was actually below stock. Why? FMF fattty was signifantly shorter than the KTM pipe. Which means... The suck-action is shorter, (pipe pulling mix through the transfers into the combustion chamber and pipe) The stuff-action starts and ends sooner, (pipe stuffing mix back into the combustion chamber while piston is traveling upwards). *If the stuff action happens to early in the cycle it stops mix from entering into the combustion chamber. I suspect this is what was happening. By lowering the PV arm the exhuast port open time is shifted later in the cycle... which also delays the pipe's suck & stuff cycle. So the shorter pipe cycle can correctly sync up... The negative & positive pressure waves occuring at the right piston position. I hope I explained that well enough, It's hard to put into words. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT II The fatty pipe wasn't great becuase this kept happening everytime I hit something. So switch to the DEP pipe. The DEP is a top-end wot pipe, best performing pipe I tried so far. It sits high up out of the way rocks. I've had mine for at 2 seasons and it has only 1 dent. But heres the catch; the DEP is short, shorter than the FMF, waayy shorter than the powerparts pipe. To get it to make power I had to move the PV arm down (like I did with the FMF) but like all the way down. More so than the adjuster was designed to do. The pictures shows were I had it, the arm is nearly touching the case and I had to use 2 washers to get the screw cap to fit. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT III I remembered from this post that the 200sx timers were stiffer. This got me thinking, a stiffer spring may work better with the DEP pipe; I wouldn't need the PV arm adjusted so far down. I did some research and bought all 3 springs. There where 3 types of springs made: 52337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 200'98 *SOFT* 52337050144 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL.200SX 03 *STIFF* ^^^*!! No Longer Available !!* 50337050044 CENTRIFUGAL TIMER CPL. 125'98 *STIFF* The 125 spring is identical to the 200sx spring from what I can tell, and is still available brand new from KTM. So there are 2 springs, soft & stiff. Lets see what bikes KTM used them on. 200 EXC - SOFT SPRING 200 XC -SOFT SPRING 200 SX- STIFF SPRING 150 SX - STIFF SPRING Look closely, all the bikes using the stiff spring have a much shorter pipe length than the soft spring bikes. Makes perfects sense, If the PV opens too much too soon the power drops out because the return wave is actually restricting mix from entering in the chamber- The issue I experienced with the fatty & DEP pipe. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACT IV (its almost over) I installed the new PV timer during the most recent rebuild. I used the CPL. 125'98 because it was brand new. I adjusted the PV arm back to the stock position. Bike ran great, had power throuhout the range and loads of top-end like a true mx bike (like in the video). I did a little bit of adjusting to see if there was any more power to grab and heres where it ended up... ^^^ Thats pretty dang close to the 'langston setting'. If I remember correctly the langston setting was for 125, which means he's bike had the stiff PV spring. It's no coincidence that my bike with the same hardware would react similarly. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Conclusion The ideal PV arm position is extremely dependent on what pipe is on you'r bike. Just adjusting up does not always translate into more top-end power. If you'r running a 200sx pipe in an attempt to convert you'r bike you need the stiff spring to get it to work correctly. The EXC soft springs opens too soon and makes the engine out of tune. Full disclosure there is otherstuff done to my bike to increase top end. -Engine ported by Ken OConnor Racing -Carb bored to 38mm & Suzuki needle -Vortex CDI

https://www.vmx-racing.com/products/vmx-35-50-supermoto-wheels-fit-yamaha-yz250f-450f-yz125-250-blue-with-disc-930 will these fit my SXF250 2010

Looks like Marv might be gonna be on a different team when SX 2023 starts! Now lets see what changes KTM will make, will it be Dungey full time?

So the title pretty much says it. When I leave the ground, head downhill very fast, hit large enough bumps, or even pull a very high wheelie, I have no throttle response. Instead of coming hard into the power band, it bogs and bogs and bogs. When I land (often on the front wheel) the throttle response comes back. Has anyone experienced this? What is causing it and how can I fix this? Thanks in advance.

He's not saying a whole lot but a few nuggets exist. https://racerxonline.com/2021/10/01/open-mic-eli-tomac

Gotta admire his enthusiasm even after all the tough injuries he's had..

https://racerxonline.com/2022/12/07/ken-roczen-chooses-2023-race-machine

Hi I have a 2017 ktm 85sx 17/14. I was wondering is there anyway to adjust my clutch because when I first start to ride it seems to be dragging a little bit like when I’m in first going down a hill it will engine break a little(not enough to hurt it but I still blip the throttle to be safe)Is there any way to adjust it like a cable. I read the factory manual and all it says is to adjust the lever but I don’t know if that would help but I will try. Any suggestions?

He's been there a lot of years. I say he will.

Hi All, My sons NEW 2018 KTM 50 SX has an issue in muddy or wet conditions. If he rides through a fairly deep puddle or is riding in muddy conditions the bike will eventually stall and then when trying to start it again I can usually get it started and it will run at lower RPM's but as soon as I try to give it gas and go to higher RPM's the bike will bog down and stall. Sometimes it will not start at all. If I let the bike sit for 20 minutes, it will start up and rip again without any issues. I assumed that coil or coil wires or spark plug wires were getting wet and and causing this BUT I have not been able to duplicate the failure wetting the bike with hose at home. It has me completely baffled. If the carb is clogging up somehow or airways etc. I can't figure out where or why it is OK after 20 minutes and why I cannot duplicate the issue. The bike is not getting hot, and it has happened just going through a deep puddle (Up to foot pegs at most) but splashing the bike. Anyone been through this? Any ideas on what it might be. Prior to having this bike, we had the mini. That was a nightmare with coil and stator issues and overheating. Other then this issue, this bike rips. Its been much better.